This project goes into the build of an offgrid portable water pump and filtration system that can turn any water from your creek,lake,river into safe and clean drinking water . This 12V portable system can be powered by solar or from your car directly and is ideal for camping , RV or outdoor survival enthusiasts. This system enables them to pump water from a fresh water source, filter and then store or use in case of emergency survival situation.

The materials you need to build this portable filtration system are as follows. A tactix storage box to lodge the water pump,inlet and outlet hoses, an inline water filter or twin carbon 0.5micron filter, pex pipe, garden hose pipes, 12mill barb strainer,rocker switch ,12V Shurflo water pump with the flow rate of 11 litres per minute, 50 amp Anderson plug and 10m heavy duty wire ,basic tools such as wire cutters, long nose pliers, solder.

The first step is completing the wiring for the water pump inside the tactix tool box. The rocker switch , the Anderson plug and a 7.5 Amp inline fuse are wired. The 12V rocker toggle switch is mounted at the center of the box lid.

The power input plug or the Anderson plug is mounted to the left of the switch. This input plug connects to the car battery or a solar battery. The positive red wires from the switch is connected to the Anderson plug through an inline fuse .The negative black wire from the plug goes straight to the switch. The remaining wires from the switch is then connected to the water pump which will be installed later. The wires are covered with corrugated split tubing to ensure that it is protected and safe.

The filter strainer is installed on the inlet side of the pump using an elbow, thread tapes. The strainer will filter out any unwanted debris before it goes to the pump.

Couple of holes are drilled into to the side of the box where the inlet and the outlet hoses will connect the water pump. The male fitting are attached to the holes before the pump is installed.

The pump is placed inside the box and mounted securely in such a way that the elbows are facing towards the two holes for the exterior hoses that was just made at the side of the box. Once the pump is mounted ,we connect the red and black wires coming from the switch to the positive and negative connections of the pump. The wires are once again covered with corrugated split tubing for safety.

To connect the pump with the hose outlets , we measure the distance between the outlets and the pump and connect two pex pipes . Heat was applied to the pipe for bending and moulding them to connect the outlets.

The 10 metre 50 Amp Anderson plug extension heavy duty cable wire is connected to the power source .Here the power draw is from a car battery. The other end is connected the input anderson plug on the top side of the box.

The inlet hose with the strainer attached is placed sitting midway
into the water source .The other end of the hose is connected to the intake pipe coming from the pump inside the box. The

The other hose is connected to the outlet pipe coming from the water pump inside the box. At the end of the hose , we connect an inline water filter or a twin carbon filter . The carbon filter ensures that there is no sediments or debris inside the water and also helps to eliminate bacteria and other contaminants.

  • How to build a Cheap Waste oil Barrel Heater for your Garage .Generate Free Heat from Used Oil
    This project goes over the build of a homemade waste oil garage heater made out of an old standard 55 gallon drum and a propane tank. This setup also doubles as a cooker. The first step is to make the Waste Oil Burner Unit. This is made out of a four inch tin can and a candy tin. Place the tin can in the center of the candy tin and mark around them. Cut a hole out of it with a chisel. Drill around 15 small holes around the tin can. The tin can acts like a chimney brining fresh air for the combustion. The open end of the tin is placed into the hole at the center of the candy tin. This burner uses a little over two liters of used waste oil per hour and makes lots of heat from that amount of oil. Make sure that the propane tank is empty. Fill it with water and let it sit for a day before we begin to disassemble them. Once the tank is safe to work with, we begin by cutting two sections on the them and divide it into two chambers .The top one is seven inches high and the bottom one is three inches. We also cut two openings at the top of the tank for exhaust fumes. We make a disc separator out a 4mm steel plate with a hole in the middle. This disc goes in between the upper and the lower chamber. We place the tin can burner unit inside the upper chamber . The lower chamber is for the air intake. Doors are made with the leftover cut pieces of the tank . The door for the upper chamber has a screen welded onto them for viewing purposes. The air for the combustion comes through the lower chamber ,passes through the disc separator hole and goes into the burner unit. To radiate the heat , we place a 55 gallon drum over the propane tank burner unit . To make this unit , we take the drum and place it sides and cut out a portion . A steel plate is placed in the middle . This can act as a cook top . One the other side of the drum ,we make a hole so that it sits in tightly on the propane burner tank. The two upright sides of the barrel is welded with a six inch steel pipe for heat distribution. This pipe acts as suction for the flue pipe . The flue pipe is welded onto this pipe in the middle . So the exhaust gas from the burner comes up and heats the plate over it ,travels up through the barrel into the pipe and moves out through the flue. To control the waste oil coming into the burn chamber of the barrel stove , we use a drip feed system. The oil stored in a bucket is connected to a half inch pipe with a ball valve. The pipe goes into a standard half inch gate valve and further connects to a pipe in pipe system. A half inch inch copper pipe is placed inside a one inch mild steel pipe . The pipe coming from the gate valve is connected to the copper pipe which is inside the mild steel pipe through an elbow. These two pipes goes straight into our burner unit inside the propane tank. The oil gets drip fed into the candy tin of our burner. To get started ,we add some kerosene and light up a fire using the torch. We slowly open the valve to start the oil feed into the burn chamber.
  • How to heat your Garage by using an Outdoor Wood Burning Boiler and an old car radiator
    This project goes into the build of an outdoor wood boiler for heating your garage using an old barrel and a car radiator. The first step is to make a wood burning stove out of an old barrel . Here we are converting the barrel into a stove using a vogelzang stove kit. We start by cutting a hole for the door using the the door accessory from the kit as a guide. Place the door on the side of the barrel and mark the four corners. Start cutting the hole using a grinder, reciprocating saw or a plasma torch. Align the door with the hole and drill holes for the screws. The door is now secured in place . Next step is to install the legs that came with the kit. Place the barrel on the the legs and align them so that everything is level. The spots are marked , holes drilled and the legs are bolted in place. To control the air flow and how hot the stove burns, we install the flange and the damper within the chimney area. Center the flange that comes with the kit near the edge and make a circle for cutting the hole. Also mark holes for the bolts using the flange as a guide. The flange along with the damper is then screwed down securely. The next step is to convert this barrel stove into a hot water heater. Begin by drilling two holes across both sides of the barrel and inserting couple of three eighth inch threaded rod across the sides. This creates a base where a 30ft coiled copper tubes are placed to circulate the warm water. A 30ft half inch copper coil with the input and output straight end is placed inside the barrel on top of the two threaded 3/8th rod base which we have installed previously. Two holes are drilled at the back of the barrel so that the input and the output ends of the copper coil can be connected to a pipe or flexible hose. The input end of copper coil coming out at the back of the barrel is further connected to another loop of copper coil outside the barrel . The coil is wound across the barrel so that incoming water is preheated using the outside coil before it goes into the barrel and gets further heated by the coils inside . The ends of the coils are connected to two pipes, the outgoing and the return . These pipes are then insulated using half inch pipe insulation foam to prevent any leak. A small trench is dug and the insulated pipe is extended to the garage. The water circulatory pipes are now connected to an old car radiator inside the garage. The incoming hot water pipe is connected at the top of the radiator and the return is connected at the bottom. To circulate the water ,we use a cheap submersible pump. The pump is submerged in a bucket . The pump will pump cold water out through the heater, the hot water circulates through the radiator , cools down and collected at the bucket and it is again recirculated. Two holes are drilled on the top of the bucket . One for the pipe coming out from the pump and another for the pipe coming back from the radiator. The inch and quarter radiator hose is adjusted to connect to the pex hose piping with the help of a PVC poly tube with a threaded end The other side of the polytube with the threaded end is attached to a PVC adapter and a slip fitting with a bushing. This helps us to connect the pex pipe to the radiator . To prevent the water from boiling , an antifreeze solution is mixed . A window fan is used as a back fan for the radiator. Placed right behind the radiator, this blows the hot air through it and into the garage.
  • DIY Video : How to heat your garage the Inexpensive way by building an Outdoor Stove with Heat Exchanger
    This project goes over the build of an inexpensive garage heater using DIY outdoor barrel stove with a heat exchanger. This outdoor setup is safe because you dont want the stove inside the garage to catch fire if you are working with any flammable gas. We use a 30 gallon drum for the stove. The access doors and legs are purchased from the local store. The heater exchanger is made out of four inch steel pipe .We take couple of 4 foot pipe and weld them together using another small pipe. This pipe goes inside the firebox and connects to the chimney pipes. The pipe should be thick enough that it can withstand the heat of the fire without sagging or bending. This pipe heat exchanger adds positive pressure . Removable hatches are made on one side of the stoves to connect the 2 four inch aluminum flex chimney pipes from the outside barrel to the garage. Inside the garage we place a 4 inch exhaust fan blower that sucks the colder air from the floor and blows it through one of the flex chimney pipe into the stove. The blower is actually a hydroponics duct exhaust fan purchased from Ebay. The cold air gets pushed into the stove and moves through the heat exchanger steel pipe , gets heated and then moves out through the second chimney flex pipe and back into the garage. The hot air from the stove moves into the garage through the second pipe. In order to get more hot air, we also add a drip fed waste oil system to the outdoor stove . The oil gets dripped slowly from a tank into a frying pan on top of the stove .You can add cotton rags and let it drip into there and it just keeps burning like a wick. The combination of both wood and waste oil produce better fire . If the stove gets too hot, you can turn of the oil or use oil only to maintaining the temperature. You can put an insulated shack around the stove to minimize the heat loss.

This project goes over the build of an DIY Atmospheric Water Generator that distills water from air. This unit is made of aluminum and copper components so it is water safe and is drinkable. The water essentially is just pure distilled water just as clean as if it is distilled from a stovetop distiller. This setup works well in hot humid weather. Also acts a dehumidifier.

The materials you need to build this project are quarter inch copper tubing, soup can, half inch PVC pipe, 12V DC aquarium pump, aluminum foil, clear vinyl tubing, aluminum tray for collecting the distilled water ,small styrofoam cooler box. Cold Water is pumped through two sets of coiled copper tubes. The coil becomes freezing cold and starts to condensate . Dew gets collected on the coil and is captured by a drip pan which is placed under the coil.

The copper tubes are wrapped around a soup can to get the coiled shape. The clear PVC hose tube is clamped onto the coil and then connected to a small 12V DC aquarium water pump which is powered by a battery or solar panel.

We take two half inch PVC pipes , connect them together with two elbows . Wrap the PVC pipes with some aluminum foil and place the pipes above an aluminum or glass tray.

The water pump is then submerged in a chest box or bucket containing ice cold water. The pump is started and water coming out of the box cooler is sent through the copper coil where it will start the condensation process. Here the water is chilled to below its dew point. If the water is warm, it wont cool the copper coil enough for the condensation to occur.

The colder the water and the more humid it is out , the faster the process of collecting distilled water. To improve the efficiency , you could squeeze the copper coils together . The more the coils, the more the water you can extract from air .

  • DIY Video : How to dig your own shallow water well for the garden
    This project goes over the instructions on how you can dig your own shallow hand pump water well using simple tools and save a lot of money. Before digging the water well, you need to know the ground. You got to have the right soil for this system to work. If your soil type is silt, clay, sand or loam, then its ideal .In our case, we have the first 10 or 12 feet of fine glacial silt and below that there is glacial deposits of river gravel. The first step is to dig a hole for the well casing. The tools you need to dig the hole are six inch post hole auger , three quarter inch extension pipe with coupling at the end and couple of wrenches. Once you have spotted the area where you want to dig the well, you start by applying downward pressure on the auger by twisting it. It screws itself into the earth filling its basket with material. When it's full, you pick it up and dump it aside or in a wheel barrel. Sharpening the auger can help it cut through tree roots but it will not stay sharp long. It is important to do your best to keep the hole centered. Once the bottom is reached, we pull out the auger and remove the basket from the handle and insert one of the extension using the pipe wrench. The next part is getting the casing down the hole. For the casing we are using a cheap and readily available six inch PVC sewer pipe. We use a rasp to smoothen the end of the pipe so that it fits a cap . A round piece of PVC flat stock is bolted and glued on top of the cap using a PVC glue. This becomes the mounting base for the pitcher pump. To get started with driving the well point, we need a long piece of 10 foot pipe and a sandpoint, a couple of drive couplings. The drive couplings are steel rather than cast which makes them stronger. But most importantly, they have that small diameter so that they can slip down inside, making them not much larger than the diameter of the sand point itself. The sandpoint is made of perforated stainless steel and a cast iron point at the bottom. We connect the sandpoint and 10 foot pipes using the couplers and some Teflon tape. Now you don't want to hammer on your drive point or any of your fittings without them being quite tight because you need those extra threads to spread the load. We drive the whole thing with a homemade post hole pounder which is a gooseneck trailer hitch ball welded into a piece of pipe. We insert the sandpoint with the extension into the well casing and start drilling by hand. We are gonna find out how far down that water is by dropping a string with a bolt tied to it to the very bottom. We finally attach a black ABS suction by sliding it down into our pipe .Then we cover the pipe with our PVC casing . And once the casing has been firmly tamped down, we will pack around the casing and tap that into place. The final step is to install the pitcher pump and prime it by add some water. The top cap is installed on the casing opening and the pump is bolted to the top of the cap. Priming the pump simply entails pouring a little water in that top basin.
  • DIY Video: How to build a Homemade Gravity fed ,Drip Waste Oil Heater for your Garage .Clean and Efficient
    This project goes over the build of a simple gravity drip fed waste oil burner that can be used to heat your shop/garage efficiently.It heats up the garage to about 30 to 40 degrees. Hot air from the center pipe reaches up to 500 degree celsius. Once dialed in, the smoke clears and the burner is stable at 400'C. The materials needed for this project are grinder,MiG welder,plasma cutter, scrap propane tank,hammer,enclosed brake disc, steel cooking pan, 4 inch 10ft pipe, bolts and iron rod and temperature sensor to keep track of the heat. The footing and the chimney pipe is welded onto the propane tank.Add a pipe right through the middle and weld the retainers for the pan and the legs around the vessel. To improve the airflow , we cut bunch of holes around the legs. Also added some more spaces on the legs to keep the temperature away from the concrete floor. We also make a venting hole on both sides at the middle of the propane tank . To adjust the temperature, we add 2 7/16 primary holes right at the base above the heating pan. You control the burner by adjusting the input airflow into the burning chamber. Don't make the air holes for the draft on the burner too big but have plenty of holes so that with the increase the temperature and the increase in airspeed, the draft the fresh air can actually get to the burner, and you will get cleaner burn. These secondary holes allow for more oil splatter to leave the burner if any water content is present. The drip system is kept open which helps you to check how much oil flow is there and also as a safety precaution. If there is any kind of flashback, it will pop out of here and not go all the way through the the pipe back into the reservoir. This whole system is completely serviceable, completely mobile,not bolted down.You can unhook the chimney, the exhaust pipe, remove the drip system pipe and the rest. The drip system is made of heavy pipe and a small ball valve that is welded in place at the distance and at a specific height so as to dissipate the heat coming from the burner. Also you dont want the oil to reverse its direction and go back into the pipe. With the help of a fans, we increase the heat dispersion. With two fans,one blows hot air away from the wall and the other allows extra air for the burn.It pulls cold air from the floor and allows fresh air intake. Effective heating and keep the heat away from the wall. To start the system, we pour the waste oil onto the steel pan and place it under the burner. Make sure you dont have any trace of water in the pan or oil. The oil will splatter out of the secondary holes if there is water.The more you can bring in to the burning chamber,the more it will burn and more it will smoke.
  • How to heat your Garage by building a Super Insulated Radiant Floor Heating System
    This project goes over the installation of a homemade radiant floor hydronic heating system for the garage. The radiant floor heating uses a pex tubing that is installed along the floor of your garage or room . Hot water is passed through the tubing which radiates the heat out into the room or space. The first step is to figure out what size pex coil tubing and how big of a water heater you would need . Also how many feet of tubing would allow enough heat to exchange into the concrete floor to sufficiently warm up the entire space. The total BTU/hour or heat required will be based on the square footage of your garage or room . We begin by levelling the ground and start laying down a vapor barrier .The vapor barrier is made out of 6 Mil Visqueen plastic PE film .The barrier keeps the moisture from under the ground to rise up to the surface of the floor. We then lay a mixture of sand and packing gravel before installing the two inch extruded insulating polystyrene foam on the floor and the perimeter. Four circuits of 800 ft half inch Pex tubing is stapled down on two inches of polystyrene insulating foam using a pex stapler. The eight tube ends are routed upto to a box from where it is connected to a manifold which is mounted on to the wall. The pex tubing with the supply and return tube is connected to the manifold with the help of a compression fitting . To check if all the connections are OK or if there is any hole or leak in the tubing, connect the manifold to a 100 PSOI air pressure gauge to do a pressure test. Five inches of concrete is then poured over the pex tubing circuits. Saw cuts of less than an inch are made into the concrete to allow for the shrinkage during the curing process. To insulate the pex tubing and to prevent water from entering into the floor, an expanding foam sealant is filled near the junction where the concrete meets the supply and return tubing near the manifold. The heating components of this system are mounted on a 4 X 4 square sheet of plywood. The heater has a rating of 7.2kW . The heater is flow activated which requires a circulating pump to pump water through it which then activates the heater based on the temperature setting. Two 120V fractional horsepower circulating pumps are used , one for running the water through the heater and the other circulates out through the pex loops. The pump has an inbuilt garden hose connector system used for draining. The hot water coming out of the output end of the heater passes through a pressure tank which removes the air bubble with an air release valve and prevents any water hammer to the system. This is further connected to the flow activated circulating pump for the heater with connections for filing and draining the system with the help of shut off valves. The water then comes down to a stainless steel manifold and then flows through the supply end of the pex tubing . The heated water splits into four supply loops at the manifold into the concrete floor. The water then returns back to the return end of the manifold through the other four loops of pex tubing and goes straight through another circulating pump and a Y strainer filter before circulating back to the heater. Two thermometers are connected at the supply and return end of the pipe to know the temperature difference of the outdoing water and the returning water. The flow is controlled by a thermostat and a switching relay that turns on the circulating pump .

This project goes over the build of a cheap Geothermal Solar air conditioner that can cool your home with the Earths natural cool temperature.

A few feet underground, the temperature remains between 55 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit. This is true regardless of the weather above ground.The geothermal unit siphons heat from inside and vents it into the water or refrigerant in the loop. The cool temperature underground then lowers the temperature of the liquid back to 55 degrees.

In my case when I draw the water well, the static water level is 2 feet above the ground and and what that means that there is a free flowing well that runs down the hill.

This is connected to a 55 gallon drum buried in the ground to keep it cool. A circulator pump is used to pump the water to the radiator.

The water well is about 85 feet.We drop a 10 foot pipe in there and get a cheap pump from a car and probably some check valves valves and maybe start a natural siphon and run out of solar.

You will need an old car radiator for this project. The Radiator used here is from an old Volvo Car. This is used to circulate air using a solar panel.

The water coming in is connected to the radiator and the water coming out the is attached to a PVC drain pipe . The radiator is hooked to a motor connected to a solar panel.

A Temperature sensor is attached to the radiator fan to detect the indoor temperature. The pump is out of the same Volvo car from which I got the radiator. A Coolant temperature sensor can be added to measure the temperature difference from the inlet versus the outlet and just see how much heat get pulled into the water .

The system works on Solar.You will need a Charge controller,DC to DC Convertor and 12 or 24V batteries.

  • How to build a Homemade Copper Pipe Solar Water Heater and get super hot water fast and free
    This project goes over the build of a Homemade Copper Pipe Solar Thermal Water heater which can produce super hot water fast .This reaches temperature at or above 150F with air temperature from high 40's to low 50's. Here are the materials needed for this project are : Two 10 foot half inch copper pipes - Type L 16 half inch 90 degree elbows 18 tube straps 23 X 35 half inch plywood for the back 18 X 20 half inch plywood for the pipe support 2 X 2 lumber at 20 and 35" for the sides 4 and 3/8 inch square dowel rods for the glass support 1/2 inch threaded pipe adapter 3/4" to 1/2" garden hose PVC adapter 1/2 inch coupler. The first step is to cut down a bunch of two foot sections out of the 10 foot sections using a copper cutter. We cut 7 of them and 2 more for the top and bottom which are 30 inches each. Next we cut 8 sections of 1 1/8" for the connecter pieces between elbow joints. This allows the pipe to be spaced exactly two inches apart on the board evenly all the way up and down Connect the pipes using couple of elbows and a 2 inch connecter piece and solder them .Do it for the rest of the pipes. Slide the pipes into the plywood frame collector and fasten them onto it using 3/8 inch screws to be more secure. A small internal board is placed onto this frame which helps the pipe to lay flat inside .Also it holds the pipe at right height so that it exits through the right holes. It allows for the pipe to be easily removed from the collector frame. Cut the wooden dowel rods and put inside the collector to support the glass. Sand them a little bit so that the copper pipe will fit back through. A straight coupler is welded on to the end of outlet then you can add any pipe or connecter or wherever you want the water to go. The inner board is secured to the back board using some three quarter inch screws. The 4 corners of the 2 X 2 wood frame is secured using 2 and half inch wood screws and the corners of the back board is secured by one and one half inch screws. A 20 X 32 inch glass is placed on the frame with the help of some silicone caulk around the edge. The highest piece of copper in there is eighth of an inch away from the glass and its painted black.
  • How to build an Emergency Waste Oil or Used Vegetable Oil Candle from Old Nail Polish Bottle
    This project goes into the build of a simple and inexpensive waste oil/ used vegetable oil candle from an old nail polish bottle. You can burn motor oil ,vegetable oil, olive oil or you can also use lamp oil in these types of candles. The first thing your need for this oil candle is a reservoir to hold the oil in. Here we use a finger nail polish bottle. Next , a length of 100% cotton yarn is needed that is slightly longer than the length of the bottle. Another requirement is a one inch square piece of aluminum foil. The first thing you need to do to start this process is to take the bottle , clean it completely and fill it with your source of fuel like veg oil, waste motor oil, corn oil, olive oil . When you are pouring the oil, you don't want to go all the way up to the top of the bottle. Leave small amount of space at the top of the bottle. Take the aluminum foil and fold it length wise in half .Puncture a small hole in the middle of the foil . Through this hole, the cotton wick is pushed through. Lower the wick into the bottle and fold the aluminum foil around the neck of the bottle. This acts as a lid . Make sure that everything is folded down nice and tight around the bottle. Check the candle and see if this wick is wet. And if it is not , turn it upside down for a minute . The oil will then come into this wick and saturate it. Be careful that your aluminum foil doesn't fall off. If your cotton wick is a little bit longer, pull it up a little bit . This exposes the wet part of the wick. Take your scissors and cut the wick down just a little. Light the candle . When you first go to light them it takes a minute because you have to get everything warmed up. Let it burn a little bit. Make sure to not use a thick layer of aluminum foil for the lid. The aluminum foil will heat up and cause problems.
  • How to Generate Alternative Offgrid Power by building a Homemade Waterwheel Hydro Electric System
    This project goes into the build of a homemade alternative offgrid power generation system using a water wheel and flowing water source like a stream or creek. In order to catch the water from your spring or creek , the first step is to build a small dam. This enables us to produce maximum power from the running water wheel . First, We use a 4 inch pipe to divert the water before starting the construction of the dam. With a solid concrete foundation ,we aim to make a 42 inch dam with 30 inch of head . A six inch 36 inches long PVC drain pipe is installed on the high water side .The dam is constructed using four layer of hollow blocks and quickrete blended mason mix .Try raising the water higher to see how much higher it needs to go before it overflow through the sides. The dam board gates made of deck boards are installed in the middle .The back board and the front boards are spaced apart an inch and three quarters. The dam stop gate made of plywood with dimensions of one and half is inserted between the boards . To get a tight seal a half inch rubber tube is stuffed between these boards. With a 13 and half inch treated plywood and couple of 2X6 plywood side boards, the flume is built. The side boards are glued to the plywood base using adhesive sealant and screwed with exterior grade screws. To resist twisting and to keep the width of the plywood steady , four cross spacers are installed on the flume board. To divert the water without having to drain the dam, we make a small trap door in the flume near the opening . The trap door is made seven inches back from the face of the dam. The door is supported by a flange around the back and a stainless steel hinge. The flume is installed on the creek with the help of rebars and supporting deck boards. The rebars are attached to the boards using u-bolts and drill bit. Three more subsequent flumes are attached to each other. The gap between the flumes are sealed with poly foam caulk rope. The waterwheel is made out of a section of 55 gallon HDPE drum . The blades are made of 4 inch PVC drain pipe. The blades are curved so that it retains most of the water making it more energy efficient. 24 blades are attached to the drum using 16th by half aluminum angle pieces. A three quarter inch jack shaft from an old go-kart is used as the drive shaft. This is supported at both ends of the wheel with a help of pillow block bearings. Two 28 inch Circular end pieces made of plywood is bolted along both sides of the barrel using a 6 ten inch long half by thirteen carriage bolts to make the wheel build complete. Two square collar blocks are mounted on to shaft to center them. The holes are larger than the shaft so that the wheel can be adjusted to get the runouts reduced.To center the waterwheel and to adjust the runout of the center shaft , we use four blocks and adjustment bolts around the center block like a four jaw chuck . To install the water wheel securely, a support structure made of 2x4 boards are installed near the end of the flume. The water wheel is secured on these support boards with the help of couple of swivel block bearings. We use an adjustable Unistrut to mount the bearings,sprockets and the motor. This can be adjusted for chain tension as well. The Unistrut will stand vertically on top of the cross support that is under the flume.The Unistrut's are mounted onto the wheel on both the sides with help of bearings and T-nuts. A Number 35 sprocket with 72 tooth is mounted onto the center wheel shaft. This sprocket is connected to a half shaft with 11 tooth sprocket with the help of a size 35 go kart roller chain. A Permanent Magnet Brushed DC motor mounted on 2x4 board is further connected to this shaft via another sprocket. This gear system has a ratio of 30.86:1 Using unistruct angled brackets, the wheel is mounted onto the support board near the flume. The wheel is positioned near the flume in such a way that the water where it meets the wheel is exactly at the top. The charging system consists of a 12V DC emergency standby battery, MPPT charge controller, 300W sine wave inverter . The connection from the water wheel DC motor goes to the charge controller.The charge controller is also connected to the battery. Finally the inverter is connected to the battery which is further connected to a load. To make this charging system secure, make sure to make fuse connection between the components. All these components are mounted on a temporary wooden board.

  • How to Dig a Shallow Well from Start to Finish for offgrid homesteading
    This project goes over how you can dig your own shallow well using simple tools that you can get from your local garden store. The materials you need to dig and install a well are as follows. A customized Seymour AUA2 Post Auger to dig the hole. A Shovel is used to move the pea gravel and dirt out of the way. A Four inch casing PVC pipe that is going into the hole that is dug and this is going to hold the water until you need it. One and one fourth inch threaded adapter. This connects the bottom of the casing pipe to the foot valve. The foot valve is one and one quarter inch. This valve allows the water to come in and not go out. This helps to keep the pump primed. A water well pump pipe which is basically a one and one quarter inch PVC pipe. This will pull the water from the bottom of the well bringing it to your pump. The length of this pipe is going to be determined by how deep your well is. It should be at least a foot shorter than the depth of your well. You don't want this pipe sitting on the bottom because it would just be sitting in sediment and it will be clogging things up. A pitcher pump that has a one and one quarter inch threaded water inlet at the bottom. A closet flange. It makes mounting the pump to the top of your well four inch casing pipe very easy and it also helps keep things clean. Basically you would just set this inside you your four inch pipe, drill a hole out of the middle of a board, screw that to the top of this flange then mount your pump to the board that you have fastened to this. A one and one quarter inch threaded adapter. This will screw into the bottom of your pitcher pump and in turn, it will connect to the pipe bringing water to your pump from the bottom of the well. Teflon tape, PVC glue. Pea gravel - This will go down around the casing pipe of the well. The amount of pea gravel you need is determined by the depth of the well and water height. Quikcrete or aerated concrete to cap the top of the well. This prevents groundwater contamination and keeps stuff from finding a way to easily get into your well. To find the spot for the well, we use couple of coat hangers as dowsing roads. We take a drinking straw ,cut it in half and slide it over the coat hangers. This helps us in not using our hands or fingers influence while dowsing. Also it is easy to rotate the rods within the straws. The rods are kept parallel to the ground . If the rods cross each other , then mark the spot on the ground directly down the cross . This is the ideal spot for the well. The auger used for digging the hole for the well is modified from the default Seymour Post hole auger. We use a custom 5 foot 11 gauge one and half inch square tubing as the extension for the auger . The handle of the auger is a three foot three quarter inch pipe welded to a four inch 11 gauge square tubing. We start digging into the the spot that we have found earlier using the dowsing rods. Pay attention to the changes in the color of sand , because that can give you clues as whether you are getting closer to water. We extend the auger using the square bar tube once the auger handle is near the ground. Once you have hit wet clay, there is going to be suction around. We twist and pull at the same time to get the auger out of the hole in this situation. Next, we put the 20 foot PVC casing pipe into the hole . We cut slots using a reciprocating saw on the pipe one foot from the bottom of the well to the top of the water level to allow the water to flow into the well. Pea gravel is poured around the sides of the pipe all the way up to the slots . The remaining hole area around the pipe is packed with sand and clay. We seal the well by packing it around the sides with quickrete cement. This helps the water not to be able to run down into your well but around it. We lower the one and one quarter inch well pump pipe with the foot valve at the end into the PVC casing pipe. A four inch drain flange is secured on top of the casing pipe . A pitcher pump is then attached to top of the pipe. To prevent the pump from moving, it is bolted to the board where the flange is installed. To prime the well, we pour some water down through the pitcher pump. Pump out the dirty water until it is clean.
  • DIY Video :How to build a Simple and Efficient Copper Coil Burner Stove from start to finish.Great in a emergency/disaster or while out camping
    This project goes over the build of an simple and efficient copper coil tiny alcohol burner jet stove. The materials you need to make this stove are canning jar, small copper tubing, JB weld to seal up the from inside and outside , pipe to wrap the coil, couple of drill bits, a wick material, sand and Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol as a the fuel. Fill the copper tubing with sand all the way up. Seal both ends of the tube with a cloth or a cap. With the help of a vice ,we bend the tubing around the pipe into a loop. Flatten the sides of the coil keeping the sides together. Empty the sand out of the copper coil and run water through it to get everything out. This is done so that the inside is completely open for the air and the gas to build up and burn in there. Cut a vent hole down the center of the looped coil using the smallest drill bit. Mark the canning glass jar against the copper coil so that we can cut off the extra coil legs so that the coil fits inside the jar approximately three quarters way down. Next step is to make holes for the lid of the jar . Place the coil on top of the lid and make two spots for the holes. We use a drill bit ,same size as the coil to drill two holes. The coil is placed through the two holes of the lid and sealed on both the top and bottom side using JB Weld. Allow the glue to set for an hour. Take your wick cloth material ,insert and twist them through both the holes of the coil all the way up to the top. Pour some Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol onto the jar , place the lid with the coil on the top and tightly close the jar with the cap. Wipe the sides of the coil with rubbing alcohol. To prime the stove for its first burn , start by heating the coil using a propane torch first. The heating of the coil gets the gas going. Heat until the flame starts to appear. Burn for four to five minutes to steady the flame.
  • How to build a Simple Homemade Wood Burning Stove heater with Heat Exchanger for your Garage .No Electricity required and Inexpensive‚Ķ..
    This project goes into the build of a homemade wood burning heater with a heat exchanger for your garage . This heater is build from a recycled old propane tank . The other materials you need to build this heater are 55 gallon drum, fan blower, quarter inch steel plates , eighteen 2 inch steel pipes for the heat exchanger, welding unit, plasma cutter. Before cutting into the propane tank , make sure to clean the tank so that there is no residual gas left in it . Cut both ends of the tank using the plasma cutter. Now we cut a 30 inch length piece from the tank .This acts as a main body where the heat exchanger pipes are installed. The heat exchanger consists of 18 two inch pipes that run the length of the heater from front to back. Two quarter inch steel plates are welded at the ends of the propane tank . Before doing that we make 18 holes at both the ends of the steel plate. This is done to install the heat exchanger pipes across the length of the tank. With the help of an eighth inch hardboard, we make a template for cutting the 18 holes out of the steel end plates. The hardboard acts a guide for the plasma cutter to cut the holes. The pipes for the heat exchanger are cut 31 and half inches long. Half inch sticks out at both the ends of the heater. They are welded to the steel end plates at both ends. The opening for the door at the end of the heater for the wood intake has a dimension of 16 inch X 12 inch . A similar template is placed on the end plate and the opening is cut using the plasma cutter. A frame around the door is made using a three quarter inch by three sixteenths inch flat stock .This is used for the door opening and to give the door something to close up against. Hinges are welded near the door opening for attaching the door. The locking mechanism for the door to hold it shut is made using a flat stock and couple of bolts . The bolts are welded onto the flat stock and attached inside the heater just beside the door . The handle made of a 90 degree round stock is welded to couple of washers and the door is sandwiched in between. The end plates along with the door is welded onto the body of the heater at both the ends and a hole is made at the top of the propane tank body for installing the flue exhaust pipe. A small hole is cut near the door and a damper in the form of a simple sliding door is attached to the hole that will control the airflow into the heater. A section from old 55 gallon steel barrel is cut and welded onto the backside of the heater .An inexpensive fan blower is attached to this 55 gallon drum . This is installed to concentrate the air that is going through the heat exchanger pipes. The flue pipe is welded onto the top of the heater so that the harmful smoke and gases escape through the exhaust . A grate is placed into the heater through the door opening , wood pieces are introduced and the we start firing the heater. After few minutes , the fire will heat the heat exchanger pipes . The fan blower is turned on and the hot air is blown through the pipes into the garage .