This project goes over the build of an emergency cheap bio sand water filtration system. This can filter out your polluted water from your stream or lake or gutter. Bio sand filters are good for filtering parasites, bacteria, protozoa virus and fine sediments from well water.
These work by doing four stages of purification. First is the biological zone where bacteria eats your parasites and pathogens viruses. That happens on the surface of the bio zone. The second is mechanical trapping where sediment can be attracted to porous rock, and it will filter out sediment absorption, third one is absorption where the electrostatic charge which will attract small particles and viruses down to virus level and get attracted to this sand and last stage is natural death from nutrient depletion when there won’t be anything for bacteria or virus to eat or thrive on when they start to go through the sand dairy of the filter.
There is two five gallon buckets, one stacked on top of the other. These are black food storage buckets. These buckets don’t tend to promote the growth of algae as much as the opaque buckets do. The top bucket is the water storage bucket, the top one is the filter.
There is an eighth inch hole on the lid at the top bucket that allows water to flow freely without creating a vacuum. There is a 16th of an inch hole at the bottom of the bucket that slowly let the water drip out onto the top of the next bucket.
The bottom bucket has 8 one quarter inch holes along the sides. This allows the water to disperse over the top ,they drip down to the these holes along the side of the bucket such that they dont disturb the biozone underneath. It’ll take about three weeks to establish a bio zone. And during that three week period, you’re going to have to continually feed some polluted water in there with bacteria in it to feed the bio zone to make it develop and grow.
It would put a large circular ring in the center of your bio filter and distribute the bacteria off to the side. Now this filter relies upon bacteria that forms on the top of the sand to eat the other bacteria like Giardia and Cryptosporidium.
A pipe at the center will prevent the sand from coming up into the faucet and getting into the drinking water. We here have two layers of sand. The bio zone is going to have a couple inches of fine sand on it to promote the growth of the bacteria. The course sand underneath will filter out sediment and other bacteria. Bottom layer is an inch of fine and pea gravel.
The second stage of this filter starts with the build of a 4 way distribution pipe made of PVC pipes and a four way coupler. We cut holes in these pipe ,one towards the end and the other towards the center. This will distribute the water over the top of the bucket and so that the water isn’t just going in in one spot and trickling down one side or down the center and not evenly distributing it over the top of the sand
Drill a hole at the bottom of the 2nd bucket and put a quarter inch brass drain plug .This can be used to drain water out the barrels if I want to store them or to flush them out.
We put put 3 levels of gravel and 3 levels of sand in the second stage. Put two to three inches of each layer of gravel. Add an inch of activated carbon on top of this fine gravel. Treat both the filter with chlorinated water and fresh water and let it sit for few minutes. Stack the second stage filter on top of the first stage. Make sure the whole setup is tightly sealed.
Further purify the water by letting it sit under the sun. The ultraviolet ray purify the remaining bacteria that might be in there.
- DIY Video :How to build a Simple and Efficient Copper Coil Burner Stove from start to finish.Great in a emergency/disaster or while out campingThis project goes over the build of an simple and efficient copper coil tiny alcohol burner jet stove. The materials you need to make this stove are canning jar, small copper tubing, JB weld to seal up the from inside and outside , pipe to wrap the coil, couple of drill bits, a wick material, sand and Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol as a the fuel. Fill the copper tubing with sand all the way up. Seal both ends of the tube with a cloth or a cap. With the help of a vice ,we bend the tubing around the pipe into a loop. Flatten the sides of the coil keeping the sides together. Empty the sand out of the copper coil and run water through it to get everything out. This is done so that the inside is completely open for the air and the gas to build up and burn in there. Cut a vent hole down the center of the looped coil using the smallest drill bit. Mark the canning glass jar against the copper coil so that we can cut off the extra coil legs so that the coil fits inside the jar approximately three quarters way down. Next step is to make holes for the lid of the jar . Place the coil on top of the lid and make two spots for the holes. We use a drill bit ,same size as the coil to drill two holes. The coil is placed through the two holes of the lid and sealed on both the top and bottom side using JB Weld. Allow the glue to set for an hour. Take your wick cloth material ,insert and twist them through both the holes of the coil all the way up to the top. Pour some Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol onto the jar , place the lid with the coil on the top and tightly close the jar with the cap. Wipe the sides of the coil with rubbing alcohol. To prime the stove for its first burn , start by heating the coil using a propane torch first. The heating of the coil gets the gas going. Heat until the flame starts to appear. Burn for four to five minutes to steady the flame. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HFrWw5dgliQ
- DIY Video : How to recycle your Waste motor oil,transmission oil or any waste fuel into 100% Re-Usable FuelSalvage waste motor oil, transmission fluid, old diesel that has water in it, whatever type of fuel that you might be able to have access to, wouldn't it be great to be able to take that fuel and run it in your vehicles and not throw it away? Or have to recycle it, you can recycle it yourself. Well, one of the ways is to filter. But filter material is expensive, and you got to constantly replace it. So I was introduced to this filter. Actually, it's a centrifuge by USfilterMaxx. This is just our initial test where we're going to take waste motor oil, dump it in the top of the centrifuge at spinning at about 3000 RPMs or more. And then we're going to drain and the result will be waste will be sludge in one bucket and clean motor oil and the other that can be mixed with diesel or run straight. In some diesel engines be careful on how you do this, you don't wanna mess up your injectors. But for old diesel engines that are very pretty forgiving, this is a great solution. So again, this stuff will go in my tractor or my old two cylinder diesel generator, but I'm just taking waste motor oil, and spinning out everything to make to make fuel, waste or motor oil has a ton of btu's in it. And mixing it with diesel makes for a very good sustainable solution. This is just some motor oil, nice and black from a friend of mine is changing oil in his truck. And we're gonna start with a two and a half gallon batch and run this through the centrifuge and see what she does with it. So you can see how black it is. Run the centrifuge on start introducing the waste oil. Okay, we're starting to get this filtered oil out.We're just doing a two and a half gallon batch run here. And then we're going to shut the centrifuge off. And the only way to really tell if we did anything was to see how much sludge is left in the centrifuge. That doesn't work until the centrifuge stops spinning because all the sludges is gonna be stuck to the outside wall. The sludge starts coming out.The centrifuge has stopped spinning, everything moves to the center and that's where the drain plug is This is the guts of the centrifuge. When this is spinning, it takes the oil coming in and pushes it out, and it comes over the dam, the clean stuff comes over here, it looks like it never had oil on it. And then that drops in here to come out the clean tube. When you stop spinning, the internal drains here. That's where the sludge is coming. The centrifuge run off a 220 power source. So you will need a generator or grid power to run it, or a pretty good battery bank in an inverter to run it We're gonna take our motor oil that we've just spun in a centrifuge, and we're going to put about a gallon and a half of it in this five gallon jug, and then I'm going to add a gallon and a half of diesel.We're gonna pour some of our motor oil mix and veggie. I mean motor oil and diesel 50-50 combination first. We've added a few cool features to our centrifuge we added a shell and tube heat exchanger made out of copper. So we can take hot water and heat the oil, the stored oil to a point where the viscosity is, is much lower, and it'll spin out a lot cleaner. We've added a little solar direct drive water pump, throwing off a little 20 watt panel, moving the hot water through the shell and tube. We've also added a P-trap to make sure any of the vapors from the hot oil do not escape into the clean oil bucket. They stay in the centrifuge and actually are evacuated out of the sludge side. We use thermo siphoning using a used water heater for the heat .This is free heat, there's no pumps, just thermo siphoning up to this tank and then using the little solar pump to take the hot water off the top of that tank and run it to our shell and tube. So pretty much off the grid water heating, heating lots of water using a thermal siphoning process. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3kOHhztok0Q https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UKUCYuYM_Rc
- DIY Video : How to Repurpose an Old Water heater into a Foundry Furnace. Easy to build,Heat up quickly and efficientThis Video series shows how to Repurpose an Old Water heater into a Foundry Furnace.This is a great way for the do-it-yourselfer to build a foundry furnace that will last a long time, heat up quickly, be fuel efficient, easy to build, and not break the bank!.The materials needed for this build are Old Water heater,Non-firing refractory,100HT ceramic coating,Ceramic blanket.