This project goes over the build of an emergency cheap bio sand water filtration system. This can filter out your polluted water from your stream or lake or gutter. Bio sand filters are good for filtering parasites, bacteria, protozoa virus and fine sediments from well water.
These work by doing four stages of purification. First is the biological zone where bacteria eats your parasites and pathogens viruses. That happens on the surface of the bio zone. The second is mechanical trapping where sediment can be attracted to porous rock, and it will filter out sediment absorption, third one is absorption where the electrostatic charge which will attract small particles and viruses down to virus level and get attracted to this sand and last stage is natural death from nutrient depletion when there won’t be anything for bacteria or virus to eat or thrive on when they start to go through the sand dairy of the filter.
There is two five gallon buckets, one stacked on top of the other. These are black food storage buckets. These buckets don’t tend to promote the growth of algae as much as the opaque buckets do. The top bucket is the water storage bucket, the top one is the filter.
There is an eighth inch hole on the lid at the top bucket that allows water to flow freely without creating a vacuum. There is a 16th of an inch hole at the bottom of the bucket that slowly let the water drip out onto the top of the next bucket.
The bottom bucket has 8 one quarter inch holes along the sides. This allows the water to disperse over the top ,they drip down to the these holes along the side of the bucket such that they dont disturb the biozone underneath. It’ll take about three weeks to establish a bio zone. And during that three week period, you’re going to have to continually feed some polluted water in there with bacteria in it to feed the bio zone to make it develop and grow.
It would put a large circular ring in the center of your bio filter and distribute the bacteria off to the side. Now this filter relies upon bacteria that forms on the top of the sand to eat the other bacteria like Giardia and Cryptosporidium.
A pipe at the center will prevent the sand from coming up into the faucet and getting into the drinking water. We here have two layers of sand. The bio zone is going to have a couple inches of fine sand on it to promote the growth of the bacteria. The course sand underneath will filter out sediment and other bacteria. Bottom layer is an inch of fine and pea gravel.
The second stage of this filter starts with the build of a 4 way distribution pipe made of PVC pipes and a four way coupler. We cut holes in these pipe ,one towards the end and the other towards the center. This will distribute the water over the top of the bucket and so that the water isn’t just going in in one spot and trickling down one side or down the center and not evenly distributing it over the top of the sand
Drill a hole at the bottom of the 2nd bucket and put a quarter inch brass drain plug .This can be used to drain water out the barrels if I want to store them or to flush them out.
We put put 3 levels of gravel and 3 levels of sand in the second stage. Put two to three inches of each layer of gravel. Add an inch of activated carbon on top of this fine gravel. Treat both the filter with chlorinated water and fresh water and let it sit for few minutes. Stack the second stage filter on top of the first stage. Make sure the whole setup is tightly sealed.
Further purify the water by letting it sit under the sun. The ultraviolet ray purify the remaining bacteria that might be in there.
- How to make a Survival Rope Making Machine at home from easily available materialsThis project goes over the build of a Homemade rope making machine using a simple cordless power drill and some inexpensive materials that are sourced from the local hardware store. Here are the materials needed for this project: Three quarter inch by five inch eye bolts with hex nuts Fender Washers Cut Washers Hex Nuts Plastic Castor Wheels two by two and one by six by six piece of lumber Old bicycle tire tubes Take the board and cut it to length of seven and a half inches and took the first piece and doubled it over the second one and cut them together so that they are exactly the same length. Then I took a piece of two by two and cut it eight and a half inches long. Take large fender washers and position them on the board forming a triangle, you want to do it in such a way so when you add your two by two to the top as well as the bottom, it has similar spacing at the top and the bottom. Put the two boards together, mark the centers and drill the holes. Next step is to build the metal spinning hooks. These spinning hooks are going to be made out of eyebolts which is used as a hook to put the strings on. We take 3 plastic castor wheels and use them as a pulley , connect them together with a small piece of bicycle tire tube so that when one is spun ,all three of them would spin together. We take the 3 eyebolts and push it through the hole and secure them tight with a small cut washer and hex nut. It is locked in place but should spin freely. Put with wheels through the bolts and secure them using fender washers, cut washers and nuts. Take an old used tire tube piece and line it up between the two washers and cut up a piece that is roughly about the same distance as that gap. We loop the tube over the pulley all at once.The Second board is pushed through the bolts over the wheel pulleys.Make sure everything is lined up symmetrically. When we turn one bolt, the belt drives the other two pulleys and they all spin together. As we are running the hook spinner, we are going to need something to hold it at the other end, To make the other end of the mechanism that holds the strings in place, we take six inch piece of common board and eight and a half inches of our two by twos on the bottom to secure it as a base and them we clamp it over a table. The idea is that as each hook begins to spin, the two cords attached to it will intertwine with each other. And then eventually all three of those cords will mesh together to make a nice three stranded rope. As the strands are twisted, it creates tension on the backboard. To relieve the tension, we drill a hole through the backboard and tie the rope to another counterweight rope through a swivel hook that pulls the tension and allows it to rise as the cord is pulled. We also make a rope makers top that will help guide those strands into the beautiful three strand cord. We add two ropes between the spinner mechanism as guidelines and connect it to the back board to accommodate the rope makers top. The idea is that as the tension builds it will glide forward and guide the individual strands into place to form a three stranded rope. We sandpaper the holes on the rope makers top to make it smoother so that the lines won't snag up when they start twisting. We put a wooden knob on the back to reduce the friction so that the rope makers top can slide smoothly. Loop the cords through each of the three hooks on our rope maker machine .Form a slipknot and connect it to the swivel hook. We have our rope machine build complete . To tie and cut of the rope, take a small piece of electrical tape and wrap it around the end where you want to cut it off. Cut The Rope at the back just where the electrical tape ends . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ddenqErLL0Q https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uEvM6ue3L7E https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RM9GY-n6PEA
- DIY Video : How to build a Thermal siphoning rocket stove for an off grid water system. Clean and efficient burn
- DIY Video : How to Turn old unused ceiling fans into a useful energy producer by building a Wind Turbine out of itA Beginner tutorial on how to make a wind turbine ceiling fan.So out of the box, we have the main part here, which has the motor in it.Keep up with all the blades if you can. You can use this for the furrow on the back the way it pushes around to keep the turbine from standing in a very aggressive wind it pushes it out of the way First part is just getting the motor outside of this casing. And you want to be careful because these wires are fragile, and you don't want to tear those loose by any means.So mainly, the tools that you'll need is just a screwdriver, maybe a flathead screwdriver and a hammer eventually. Take the top part of the ceiling fan off, this is the part that's next to the ceiling.Disconnect the wires don't cut them. There's a nut here with a washer that holds this plate.And we don't want this plate. So we need to take that off. However, we do want the washers here. Take this casing apart, and inside you'll see that copper coils that actually power the fan. The next step is finding the highest arm reading of these four wires that is coming out of this motor.Pull that higest ohm reading wires through the center pole to the other side. Insert a metal banding used for attaching the magnets around the stator. Put the magnets inside the fan housing to achieve a voltage reading.Add a cardboard spacer in there so that the magnets are aligned with the stator. The blades are made of 4 inch PVC.You can find templates online for the blades.Put the outline of the blades from the paper onto the PVC and then cut it out with a jigsaw. And then once you cut it out with a jigsaw, all you have to do is get a little Sander out, you can use a hand Sander to smooth the edges off. Connect the blades to the faceplate of the old ceiling fan. Next step is to take an inch galvanised pipe that forms the body of the turbine. A 40 inch piece will slide down into the conduit of the mounting system for your turbine.A 30 inch piece on the back,This is going to be angled up into the wind to keep the blades in the wind a little better. One Inch PVC is slid down the end of the 30 inch pipe and attach the tail piece on there which is made of fan blade The wires from the fan is passed through the pipe and just zip tie them down.Cut the PVC in half to a 45 degree elbow ,cut a line down through this PVC, we're gonna split it basically and drill some holes in it and attach the ceiling fan blade. Attach the fan to the galvanized pipe with the help of an extension that was previously saved during our dismantling of the ceiling fan.Use JB weld on the inside of that. And I put this bolt through this part and put a tightening screw on it, they're kind of digs into the metal. Connect the two leads from the fan to a bell wire, solder these two together, wrap it up with some electrical tape and kind of zip tie to the top so that it will stay in place.At the base end of the wire,connect it with a diode bridge rectifier which is further connected to our battery. Regarding connecting the rectifier,it doesnt matter how you solder them together,just as long as they are separate and not connecting and shorting out. But you want to put this at the base of the wire at the very end so that you can put this inside of your battery box and hook it up to your battery. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sr9ZMbF3Zqk&list=PL68TKRSLgXzQqZa5WzMNFwmYKS4b4KPcA