This tutorial goes over the basic overview of a 24×24 , two 9 foot door,one side door window garage.First of all,you will need to take permission from the building inspector.The inspector makes sure that you are within zoning requirements.You will need the paperwork ,plot plan when you go to the building inspector and those are available from your assessor’s office or the town hall or you may have one with your deed.Started with a bucket loader come in, take out some trees level off the area remove blushes and prep for the concrete work.
The first step is to dig down and install the footings where the wall is kind of set.Here I have a four foot wall put in with the floating floor.
Wall of the foundation is about six inches high, it goes into the ground four foot.And one reason that I wanted the wall foundation versus a flat pad foundation is because of the bug issues.
After the footings are dry in a few days,the walls are put up and I have the openings for the two nine foot doors and a side door.
After they dry for a few days,the floor screen is laid .This is a standard 4 inch thick flooring.
Floating floor means that in reality, if the ground swells during the winter time, the floor can actually rise up and sink down. But it prevents it from cracking because it does have a little give to it. So it’s not actually connected to this wall. It’s poured right up against it, but the floor is a separate piece by itself.
When the walls are poured every four foot they have a half inch threaded rod that’s embedded into the concrete while it’s still wet, it goes down about maybe a foot and a half has an L shape on the bottom in the rod will stick up directly in the center of the 2 X 4.
2 inlets for underground wiring,a 50 and 130 amp circuit.Its buried four foot down through the PVC.
The walls are standard 2 X 4, a double sill plate and a top plate those are the two that run horizontally. I use pressure treated against the concrete which will take care of the bug issues.
The headers for the garage door is standrd 2X10,double up half inch plywood in the center.
The plywood on the three sides and trusses are put up.The trusses are put upside down and they are flipped up.But once they’re up there I marked the top sills where I wanted them nailed them and put braces across the top,measure and straighten them out.
The first truss on the end of the building on both ends is called the gable end. It’s a little different than the other main trusses.The trusses are 24 inch on center, which means that they’re spaced 24 inches apart,unlike the walls which are 16.
The roof and the sides are on half inch plywood.I also run some stringers down the center and off to the sides to help so they won’t twist during a snowstorm.One thing that’s very important is when you put up the plywood the very first piece that you put on is the most important piece of wood that you’re going to put on this garage because everything references off that one piece.It has to be square to the gable end .
When the first piece of plywood is put up, you install the plywood ties between the trusses and all that does is if the roof gets moisture from inside the garage,it will tend to flex.The ties help in keeping them nice and flat and avoid the bowing.
The truss catwalk goes right down the center that stabilizes the horizontal bottom piece of the truss.
The doors are framed and roof is made of standard architectural shingles.These shingles have more lifespan.Also added tarpaper on the roof.The wiring is through down the center of the catwalk.
The finished garage and the build videos
- DIY Video : How to heat your garage the Inexpensive way by building an Outdoor Stove with Heat ExchangerThis project goes over the build of an inexpensive garage heater using DIY outdoor barrel stove with a heat exchanger. This outdoor setup is safe because you dont want the stove inside the garage to catch fire if you are working with any flammable gas. We use a 30 gallon drum for the stove. The access doors and legs are purchased from the local store. The heater exchanger is made out of four inch steel pipe .We take couple of 4 foot pipe and weld them together using another small pipe. This pipe goes inside the firebox and connects to the chimney pipes. The pipe should be thick enough that it can withstand the heat of the fire without sagging or bending. This pipe heat exchanger adds positive pressure . Removable hatches are made on one side of the stoves to connect the 2 four inch aluminum flex chimney pipes from the outside barrel to the garage. Inside the garage we place a 4 inch exhaust fan blower that sucks the colder air from the floor and blows it through one of the flex chimney pipe into the stove. The blower is actually a hydroponics duct exhaust fan purchased from Ebay. The cold air gets pushed into the stove and moves through the heat exchanger steel pipe , gets heated and then moves out through the second chimney flex pipe and back into the garage. The hot air from the stove moves into the garage through the second pipe. In order to get more hot air, we also add a drip fed waste oil system to the outdoor stove . The oil gets dripped slowly from a tank into a frying pan on top of the stove .You can add cotton rags and let it drip into there and it just keeps burning like a wick. The combination of both wood and waste oil produce better fire . If the stove gets too hot, you can turn of the oil or use oil only to maintaining the temperature. You can put an insulated shack around the stove to minimize the heat loss. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fn4CerxpNug
- DIY Video:How to build a simple Off Grid Electricity Generation System using Two BatteriesThis project shows you how to generate Off grid AC Power using a simple Solar power station with 2 batteries.This system can provide enough off the grid power to run your appliances around the house.You can easily run light,a laptop computer, small tv and fan for several hours. Most of the item required can be bought from your local store or Amazon.The rough cost of building this system is as follows : $150 for 100W Solar Panel $75 each for 2 batteries. $20 for 400w Inverter $40 for charge controller. The whole system comprises of four things, a couple of batteries, inverter, and a charge controller.The inverter is purchased from Harbor freight ,the charge controller from fry electronics.The deep cycle batteries are from Walmart. So you start by setting up your panels outside. In this case, I have six one amp panel set up, 15 watts a panel, so that's 90 watts coming in. I lead them straight down to the main connection, it's just the six black wires all connected together and twisted tightly to that extension cord wire and the six red ones connected.Feed the line into your house,goes straight to the charge controller. The output wire from the charge controller goes into the battery.So solar panels to charge controller ,charge controller to lead battery in your bank.And as you want to expand this to two,three or more batteries, just use some automotive cables and go from positive terminal of one the positive of the other. And with a black wire, negative terminal to negative terminal, the other one. When you want to run something, just get your inverter that converts the power from DC to AC, take the clamps, clamp them onto that same lead battery in the system. So again, red to the positive side, black to the negative side and flip it on. So remember, when you hook things up like an inverter, or the charge controller or voltmeter, anything you're going to hook up on here, make sure you always pick one of the batteries to be the lead battery and hook everything to that. Whether you parallel one extra battery with it, or five or six or however many you want to put on there. Also added here is a lighted voltmeter which gives you a constant reading on your battery bank so you know exactly what's going on with it at all time. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cgEvCLJuBkg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8LAjx_XAR90 A simple system that can come really handy during a power outage or in any emergency situation.
- DIY Video : How to dig your own shallow water well for the gardenThis project goes over the instructions on how you can dig your own shallow hand pump water well using simple tools and save a lot of money. Before digging the water well, you need to know the ground. You got to have the right soil for this system to work. If your soil type is silt, clay, sand or loam, then its ideal .In our case, we have the first 10 or 12 feet of fine glacial silt and below that there is glacial deposits of river gravel. The first step is to dig a hole for the well casing. The tools you need to dig the hole are six inch post hole auger , three quarter inch extension pipe with coupling at the end and couple of wrenches. Once you have spotted the area where you want to dig the well, you start by applying downward pressure on the auger by twisting it. It screws itself into the earth filling its basket with material. When it's full, you pick it up and dump it aside or in a wheel barrel. Sharpening the auger can help it cut through tree roots but it will not stay sharp long. It is important to do your best to keep the hole centered. Once the bottom is reached, we pull out the auger and remove the basket from the handle and insert one of the extension using the pipe wrench. The next part is getting the casing down the hole. For the casing we are using a cheap and readily available six inch PVC sewer pipe. We use a rasp to smoothen the end of the pipe so that it fits a cap . A round piece of PVC flat stock is bolted and glued on top of the cap using a PVC glue. This becomes the mounting base for the pitcher pump. To get started with driving the well point, we need a long piece of 10 foot pipe and a sandpoint, a couple of drive couplings. The drive couplings are steel rather than cast which makes them stronger. But most importantly, they have that small diameter so that they can slip down inside, making them not much larger than the diameter of the sand point itself. The sandpoint is made of perforated stainless steel and a cast iron point at the bottom. We connect the sandpoint and 10 foot pipes using the couplers and some Teflon tape. Now you don't want to hammer on your drive point or any of your fittings without them being quite tight because you need those extra threads to spread the load. We drive the whole thing with a homemade post hole pounder which is a gooseneck trailer hitch ball welded into a piece of pipe. We insert the sandpoint with the extension into the well casing and start drilling by hand. We are gonna find out how far down that water is by dropping a string with a bolt tied to it to the very bottom. We finally attach a black ABS suction by sliding it down into our pipe .Then we cover the pipe with our PVC casing . And once the casing has been firmly tamped down, we will pack around the casing and tap that into place. The final step is to install the pitcher pump and prime it by add some water. The top cap is installed on the casing opening and the pump is bolted to the top of the cap. Priming the pump simply entails pouring a little water in that top basin. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9mG4j4I13y4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6p5ked9gKuQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=334mj68JU0I