How to build your own 24 X 24 Garage and save money. Step by Step Build Instructions

    This tutorial goes over the basic overview of a 24×24 , two 9 foot door,one side door window garage.First of all,you will need to take permission from the building inspector.The inspector makes sure that you are within zoning requirements.You will need the paperwork ,plot plan when you go to the building inspector and those are available from your assessor’s office or the town hall or you may have one with your deed.Started with a bucket loader come in, take out some trees level off the area remove blushes and prep for the concrete work.
    The first step is to dig down and install the footings where the wall is kind of set.Here I have a four foot wall put in with the floating floor.
    Wall of the foundation is about six inches high, it goes into the ground four foot.And one reason that I wanted the wall foundation versus a flat pad foundation is because of the bug issues.

    After the footings are dry in a few days,the walls are put up and I have the openings for the two nine foot doors and a side door.
    After they dry for a few days,the floor screen is laid .This is a standard 4 inch thick flooring.

    Floating floor means that in reality, if the ground swells during the winter time, the floor can actually rise up and sink down. But it prevents it from cracking because it does have a little give to it. So it’s not actually connected to this wall. It’s poured right up against it, but the floor is a separate piece by itself.

    When the walls are poured every four foot they have a half inch threaded rod that’s embedded into the concrete while it’s still wet, it goes down about maybe a foot and a half has an L shape on the bottom in the rod will stick up directly in the center of the 2 X 4.

    2 inlets for underground wiring,a 50 and 130 amp circuit.Its buried four foot down through the PVC.

    The walls are standard 2 X 4, a double sill plate and a top plate those are the two that run horizontally. I use pressure treated against the concrete which will take care of the bug issues.

    The headers for the garage door is standrd 2X10,double up half inch plywood in the center.

    The plywood on the three sides and trusses are put up.The trusses are put upside down and they are flipped up.But once they’re up there I marked the top sills where I wanted them nailed them and put braces across the top,measure and straighten them out.

    The first truss on the end of the building on both ends is called the gable end. It’s a little different than the other main trusses.The trusses are 24 inch on center, which means that they’re spaced 24 inches apart,unlike the walls which are 16.

    The roof and the sides are on half inch plywood.I also run some stringers down the center and off to the sides to help so they won’t twist during a snowstorm.One thing that’s very important is when you put up the plywood the very first piece that you put on is the most important piece of wood that you’re going to put on this garage because everything references off that one piece.It has to be square to the gable end .

    When the first piece of plywood is put up, you install the plywood ties between the trusses and all that does is if the roof gets moisture from inside the garage,it will tend to flex.The ties help in keeping them nice and flat and avoid the bowing.

    The truss catwalk goes right down the center that stabilizes the horizontal bottom piece of the truss.
    The doors are framed and roof is made of standard architectural shingles.These shingles have more lifespan.Also added tarpaper on the roof.The wiring is through down the center of the catwalk.

    The finished garage and the build videos

    • How to build a Homemade Copper Pipe Solar Water Heater and get super hot water fast and free
      This project goes over the build of a Homemade Copper Pipe Solar Thermal Water heater which can produce super hot water fast .This reaches temperature at or above 150F with air temperature from high 40's to low 50's. Here are the materials needed for this project are : Two 10 foot half inch copper pipes - Type L 16 half inch 90 degree elbows 18 tube straps 23 X 35 half inch plywood for the back 18 X 20 half inch plywood for the pipe support 2 X 2 lumber at 20 and 35" for the sides 4 and 3/8 inch square dowel rods for the glass support 1/2 inch threaded pipe adapter 3/4" to 1/2" garden hose PVC adapter 1/2 inch coupler. The first step is to cut down a bunch of two foot sections out of the 10 foot sections using a copper cutter. We cut 7 of them and 2 more for the top and bottom which are 30 inches each. Next we cut 8 sections of 1 1/8" for the connecter pieces between elbow joints. This allows the pipe to be spaced exactly two inches apart on the board evenly all the way up and down Connect the pipes using couple of elbows and a 2 inch connecter piece and solder them .Do it for the rest of the pipes. Slide the pipes into the plywood frame collector and fasten them onto it using 3/8 inch screws to be more secure. A small internal board is placed onto this frame which helps the pipe to lay flat inside .Also it holds the pipe at right height so that it exits through the right holes. It allows for the pipe to be easily removed from the collector frame. Cut the wooden dowel rods and put inside the collector to support the glass. Sand them a little bit so that the copper pipe will fit back through. A straight coupler is welded on to the end of outlet then you can add any pipe or connecter or wherever you want the water to go. The inner board is secured to the back board using some three quarter inch screws. The 4 corners of the 2 X 2 wood frame is secured using 2 and half inch wood screws and the corners of the back board is secured by one and one half inch screws. A 20 X 32 inch glass is placed on the frame with the help of some silicone caulk around the edge. The highest piece of copper in there is eighth of an inch away from the glass and its painted black.
    • How to set up a Complete Off the grid living System using Solar and Wind Turbines . Make your own Power and never pay for electricity again.
      If you're going to run your home ,cabin or garage off grid, you are going to need some way of having power. Enter Solar and Wind. This project goes over the build of a complete off grid power generation system that can harness the clean and green renewable energy of the sun and the wind. Here is the basic rundown of the system .We go from sun to solar panels, there is no limit on how many solar panels we can put. It goes into a charge controller, it helps the solar panels create really efficient electricity to be pumped into your battery bank. Charge controller also makes sure that the batteries are being charged correctly and stay optimum. So solar panels to charge controller, and then that goes directly to your battery bank. The other source of renewable power is wind. The wind turbine is connected to a stop switch that goes into your battery bank. In some cases in between you can put up a wind turbine charge controller. Next step is converting the DC power to AC power with an inverter. The inverter basically converts the power to make it usable for your home. The inverter also has to be sized appropriately. From inverter to breaker panel which spreads the the power out throughout your house through your light switches, wall sockets. From breaker panel straight to your house or cabin. The first step is sizing your system. The battery voltage is going to determine what type of equipment you are going to be buying, and how you are going to be wiring your battery bank. So if you go with a 12 volt system, then you are going to want to make sure that your solar panels are wired up correctly for 12 volt. Even when you go with a wind turbine, you are going to want to make sure you buy the correct wind turbine for your battery voltage .So everything has to be sized appropriately so that you can collect as much energies as efficiently and then you can draw that power out. The golf cart batteries in my system are of 6 Volts. I have 6 of them wired in parallel, and in series to give me a 12 volt battery bank. The control panel box consists of my charge controller, voltmeter and 2 ammeters for both reading both solar and wind power amps. Four 12V Solar panels , each 100 watts are wired together . All the positives are connected to each other and all the negatives are connected to each other. The wiring goes straight into the control panel. The wind turbine used here is also 12V.The 3 Phase connections from the turbine goes into the bridge rectifier. The negative connection from the rectifier goes straight to the batteries, the positive goes to a junction box that connects the turbine and the inline fuse and 50amp breaker. The negative of the inverter goes into the negative of the batteries ,positive to positive. The romex wire from the inverter goes into the breaker panel in the house. The Permanent Motor Alternator turbine stands on a 6 foot pole .We have these two steel pipes that go down into the ground, three feet. There's another piece of steel that runs across here that's welded together, and it's in the bottom, and then we poured concrete over it to anchor it. Three tie down points are connected to the turbine to keep the pole steady from rocking around especially in high winds. So that way, when the blades turn, the bearings don't get worn out prematurely from wobbling. The Permanent Motor Alternator (PMA) used in this turbine consists of 2 shell casing, two bearings, a rotor inside and a stainless steel shaft. The tail of the turbine is made from a sheet metal cut to look like a fin.It is attached to a steel pole.This is further connected to the PMA alternator. The 11 blades of the turbine is attached to a hub and a pulley through a steel shaft. The belt is connected to a secondary pulley which is connected to the Permanent magnet alternator. The wire from the PMA is connected through MC4 connectors to the control panel. Wind turbine and solar power system overview : Setup of the wind turbines :
    • DIY Video : How to build an Ammo Can Double Burner Rocket Stove from scratch . Step by step Build Video Instructions
      This video shows the step by step build of a Double Burner Rocket Stove made from an Old Ammo Can.The can is around 19″ x 10″ x 10″, I use vermiculite as insulation, some use sand instead but I like vermic as it is fairly light.If you remove some of the insulation and it’ll be a mini barrel stove for heating too.Here i use a Black and Decker Scorpion saw to cut the pipes and just a cheap bi-metal hole saw to do the holes. I’ve cooked a full steak dinner in the woods on it and it worked great.

      Watch the Homemade Ammo Can Double Burner Rocket Stove build