How to build a Super Efficient Portable Rocket Mass Heater from reclaimed and repurposed items and save up to 80% on your heating bills

    This project goes over the build of a homemade efficient rocket mass heater which is portable ,uses less fuel and burns clean. This heater is made out of reclaimed and repurposed materials. The cool thing about a rocket mass heater is that it stays warm long long after the fire is out.

    The whole thing is powered by a rocket stove, which is a j shaped burn chamber. Fuel goes in the short side of the J, the fire burned sideways and the bottom of it. And then the draw is created by a tall vertical heat riser.

    The gases then come out of that chimney go all around the inside of the barrel, a lot of the heat is given off into the room right off of the barrel. That’s your radiant heat source for the room. The barrel acts as that radiant heat source. The gases then go through a valve in the barrel down below and through a series of tubes that are encased in mass such as aircrete or cob .The gases are able to shed the heat into the cob. And the cob stores it as a thermal battery. The gases make its rounds through the tubes and goes out through the exhaust pipe.

    The rocket mass heater shown here is made of a burn chamber, heat riser, bench for containing the tubes , the exhaust pipe and an insulation refractory material like aircrete which is a high temperature cement mix. The burn chamber is made from an old sheet metal pressure tank and a stainless steel water heater tank. The pressure tank insulated with aerated concrete sits inside the water heater tank.

    The combustion or gasification chamber is connected to the heat riser chimney through a three inch pipe insulated inside a six inch pipe. This pipe is also insulated with a refractory mix. The vortex chamber is connected to this pipe.

    The vortex chamber is made from a saw blade and a left over piece of pressure tank material . It is insulated with the refractory material . Six glue stick 3/8th inch air holes are drilled at right angles around this refractory material that creates a vortex extra air suction effect .So as that heat comes up and creates a negative pressure up the riser, it swirls around the vortex chamber and enhances the burn.

    The initial combustion creates enough heat to release way more gases than it has oxygen to burn. By introducing a vortex air intake system, the burn output is amplified.

    For making the insulated heat riser, we are going to use an aerated concrete refractory material called aircrete . We make the mould for the four inch heater riser using a metal mesh fabric, sarnafil roofing material and a thin gauge wire. Then it is filled it clay sand up to to the top . We take this mould and put it inside the six inch stove pipe and pour aircete through the sides all the way up to the top and let them sit to cure.

    We pull the sand out of the center of the heat riser. And then eject the liner that went against the inner fabric webbing that acted as a mold for the aircrete.

    The Aircrete heat riser is installed on top of the vortex chamber .The heat riser is double insulated with a old water tank and an old 55 gal oil barrel. Also the water tank is insulated from the 55 gal barrel using some pea gravel .The insulated water tank has an outlet pipe at the bottom for extension into the mass bench .

    The exhaust pipe coming out the insulated heat riser has a two foot drop to a directional valve connecting two pipes ,one pipe acts as a flue chimney that goes out into the outdoors through the window, the other goes into the mass bench. The valve allows us to redirect the air to pass to the bench once the heat riser is all warm.

    The eight foot long wooden mass bench houses the six inch stove pipes coming out the exhaust of the heat riser. It has a mylar reflective insulation sheet on the floor. This helps prevent the heat escape through the floor .The mass bench is then insulated with pea gravel which absorbs the heat and holds it and slowly radiate out over a period of time. The pipe coming out of the bench goes out of the window through the valve.

    The flue chimney pipe that goes out through the window to the outdoors is made of double walled stove pipe. A five inch pipe is inserted inside a seven inch pipe. The space between them is insulated with a aerated concrete refractory material .All this insulated exhaust pipe is doing is taking and adding an element of acceleration up the chimney to negate the net negative you get from dropping two feet down into the bench from the heat riser.

    • DIY Video :How to build a Simple and Efficient Copper Coil Burner Stove from start to finish.Great in a emergency/disaster or while out camping
      This video shows the build of a Simple Homemade Copper Coil Burner Stove. Works great and would be perfect for cooking or boiling water, either in an emergency/disaster or while out camping.This is made out of a canning jar which was picked up from Walmart.The other materials required are some copper tubing,strong glue like jb kwik weld,couple of drill bits,wick material.This is really easy to make and works really efficiently.

      Watch the Homemade  Simple Copper Coil Burner Stove Build

    • How to build a Large 2000W Portable Solar Power Generator at Home from scratch.
      The idea of a completely silent power generator that can still run large power loads, and never need gasoline is a really cool concept. This project goes over the build of a large 2000W Portable Solar Generator that can power appliances ranging from a table saw to charging your phone effortlessly. We need a large box to hold our basic components. Here we use a pelican 1620 protector case that is durable, dustproof and waterproof .This is going to be the case that we package everything into. It's got wheels on the bottom so you can roll it around ,also has heavy handles on either sides. The battery is a AGM glass mat ,coil would style, 12V optima deep cycle battery. A deep cycle battery just allows you to get a little bit deeper into the discharge before you are starting to shorten the life of that battery. This battery also has the ability to be mounted in any orientation . So it is safe whether the battery is on its side on its back or even upside down as long as we have it mounted securely so that nothing shorts against our terminals. The next major components for our build is the 2000W inverter from Krieger. This one has some large terminals on the back for our wiring. Also has a active fan here for ventilation. Also comes with a remote control switch. The 100W Solar Panel is from Renogy. It has the bus on the back for connecting in to your solar charger .It also comes with a 30A Solar Charge controller. This can run up to four of the 100 watt panels in a 12 volt system. The back of the solar panel comes pre wired with MC4 connectors, as well as a couple of MC4 pigtails. We use high quality 16 gauge speaker wire to extend the connection. These wires are highly flexible for portable use. To connect it to the MC4 pigtails we need to go ahead and strip the insulation off and use butt splice connectors to crimp them to the MC4 pigtails. In case you cant to charge the system with standard AC power ,we use a 1.5A Battery maintainer / Float or Trickle charger. This will be good for just keeping it topped off when it is in storage. Or if you just want to charge up your batteries and you really don't have a place to be setting the panels out. Next step is mounting components on the outside of the case . Before mounting any component, factor in how the internal components are going to placed inside the case. On one side of the case ,we are going to mount a small LED work lamp with toggle switch, a 12V gauge pod with 5V USB output, digital voltmeter,12V cigarette socket ,an AC input plug for using with the trickle charger, a 6pin solar panel trailer connector. These components are secured in place using a RTV silicone sealant. One the other side of the case , we are going to mount the inverter remote control switch, 350A high current plug which is used for jumper cables or to add high current loads, a GFCI AC outlet with a weatherproof cover. The GFCI outlet is connected to the inverter inside the case. We want to put the battery as close to the wheels as possible, because that will help keep the heaviest part down low when moving the case around either on the wheels or by carrying it. We place it snug into a corner of the case using battery mount and couple of pieces of 2X4. The inverter is placed inside the case in such a way that there is enough space for air ventilation and for tucking some of the wires underneath. The inverters are secured in place using mounting tabs and 10x24 machine screws. The PWM solar charge controller is also mounted in the same way near the solar panel connector input. The trickle charger / battery maintainer is placed as low into the back of the case .This is not something that will get very warm so we don't need to worry about heat dissipation or anything like that . We plug the power cord from the trickle charger into the AC input cord. Next step is the wiring. We start by connecting the power cables from the inverter to the battery. The positive and negative from the inverter is connected to the positive and negative of the battery respectively. To distribute power in our generator ,we use a six circuit fuse panel for the positives and a busbar for the grounds. We use two inexpensive battery cables to run the power to our distribution blocks as well as running the power to our high current quick connector. The positive red connection from the quick connector goes to the fuse panel and the black negative connector to the ground busbar. Both connections are further extended to connect to the positives and negatives of the battery respectively. The LED lights are connected to the 3 way connector switches. The switches are further connected to the power distribution fuse block. Similarly a single switch is connected to the USB outlet, voltmeter and the cigarette lighter ports in parallel. The positive from the switch is connected through a daisy chain mechanism to the three positives of the ports ,the negatives are similarly connected to our distribution block. At this point, we now have a power wire and a ground wire for every single one of our accessories connections . We bundle these wires and keep it neat and tidy using zip ties. Separate the positive wires from the negative wires, we are going to be rounding the negative wires to our ground busbar. After we have all of the ground wires connected, we can move on to the power wires on our distribution block. Each one of the blade connectors represents one fuse circuit. We connect the positive red wires from charge controller, battery trickle charger, usb ports,voltmeter,12V outlet to the fuse circuit. We are using a 30A fuse for the charge controller,12V socket, 20A for the LED work lights, 5A for the trickle charger.
    • DIY Video: How to build a really efficient Portable Ammo Box Wood Stove
      This video shows the build of a really efficient Portable Ammo Box Wood Stove .Great for outdoorsmen, adventurers, preppers, survivalist and anyone looking for a small, portable stove for both heating and cooking. Plus, it's a fun project and makes a great gift for the outdoor enthusiast or hobbyist. The materials needed for this project are 50 Cal Ammo Box,Stove Rope Kit,Propane cylinder,Fiberglass Cloth,Mica Sheet,12" Steel Tent Stakes, 4mm thick steel plate,22 gauge steel sheet,16 gauge, Steel rivets ,BBQ skewer,4 copper pennies,2 small compression springs,3 ½” hose clamp.  

      Watch the Portable Ammo Box Wood Stove Build Series

      Other Articles: