This project goes over the build of Double Barrel Stove out of two old scrap water heaters for the shop.
The first step is to disassemble both the old electric hot water heaters to get their tanks out.
Take a grinder and cut a section off from the top of the water heater tank. This tank will become the bottom tank. Remove any calcium and mineral that ends up developing deposits inside the bottom of the tank.
Take a 12 gauge plate steel and put our top drum upside down and scribe a circle out of them from the end and cut it. Weld the steel piece onto the drum. You need to do the same for the other drum too because with these double barrels, you are basically making two stoves, just connecting them in the middle.
Now both the top tank and bottom tank ends have been polished and cleaned .Remove any insulations, paints and glues from them if they have any. Make sure all the rough pieces on the tank are welded on ground down.
Cut a small piece of pipe that acts as stack between the 2 tank.
Next step is to add a small support bracket on the top of the bottom tank that will help support the top tank.
Cut a hole on the bottom tank .This will be where the stack goes between two of them. Fill the drain plug down at the bottom .
Take the top tank, cut and weld the top exhaust stack that will be six inch outlet for the smoke.
We also add a six inch inlet that goes up to the top that forces your your smoke and the gas has to go across the length of the barrel. The bottom barrel will be connected to this.
Both barrels are welded together, the bottom barrel is welded onto the mid stack which connects the top barrel with the exhaust stack. In order to support the barrels, we take the scrap pipes lying around and make legs as a support structure for the stove.
Next is the door fabrication. We cut a hole for the door in the bottom barrel. A couple of hinges, door catch are welded on to this end. An air inlet pipe is threaded onto a plate. The whole unit is then attached to the door. A handle is attached to the inlet pipe so you can open and close whenever you want to control the flow of the air intake.
- How to build an Offgrid Wood Gasifier that can produce alternative free fuelThis project goes over the build of a cross flow wood gasifier that powers a generator or a car or any kind of internal combustion engine using nothing more than wood scraps, paper, coal or any other organic materials. This unit was built in nothing more than an angle grinder, and a hand drill and parts that you can find lying around. These devices are taking advantage of a process called gasification, in which you can take any kind of organic biomass, really anything natural that burns and by heating it up, you are able to break it down through a process called pyrolysis to its basic elements. This creates a gas called syngas or wood gas. Here we are burning biomass in an oxygen deprived environment. And that heat which is sustained through just enough oxygen to not spread to ignite the gases produced by the heat interacting with the surrounding material is the process that we are using to create wood gas. The gases coming out contains things like water vapor from moisture content in the wood, also creates tar and creosote .So we need to filter out the gas. And the main concern of getting that gas to be clean enough to run an engine is by cooling it down. We connect the unfiltered gas coming from the pressure pot into a radiator to cool it down and then further connected to a bucket filled with saw dust to filter . The reactor unit is made of an old 5 gallon painting pressure pot . The first step is to burn it out removing old residue and paint. Also burn out the inside container as well. Make sure everything on the lid of the pressure pot is removed and sealed off with a plug or bolt. Remove the rubber gasket on the backside of the lid. The holes on surface of the lid are covered with three eighth inch bolts. At the bottom of the pot , we attach two pipes for the the air intake and the syn gas suction output. These pipes are held tightly to the pot with the help of one and quarter inch pipe flanges. The air comes up from the bottom, the gasification happens in the middle of this reactor and the ash gets sifted to the bottom through a passive shaker grate. The output pipe is capped at the top to prevent the residue ash going out and small holes are drilled along the pipe to allow the wood gas to pass through. Next step is to build the grate insert where the fuel will actually sit on and burn on. The grate will sit about two and a half inches off the bottom of the pot. The grate is made from the other stainless steel container that came with the pressure spray painting pot. Grid of holes are drilled along the surface of the grate using a quarter inch drill bit. The grate is finally is inserted into the reactor pot chamber . The gasket on the back of the lid of the pot is removed and replaced with fiberglass rope that can withstand temperature up to 2000 degree Fahrenheit. The rope is secured in place using a gasketing cement and stove sealer. The lid is clamped in place until the gasket cement is dry. The next step is to build the cooling and the filtering system. To get all the tar and steam to condense back into their liquid form , we use a old oil heater radiator that act as a condensate catcher . The gas coming out of the reactor is connected to the radiator which gets most of the heat out of them. We build the filtration system using a 5 gallon metal bucket to get the gas as clean as possible. The output pipe is attached to the bottom of the bucket using a flange. The bucket is filled with a filter medium such as wood shavings or sawdust that will trap any sort of particulates and get more tar out of the gas. An old car blower from a toyota is attached to the top of this bucket to get that gas up to the point where it can burn. The blower motor is supported with a old 10 tin can that is then secured at the center of top of the bucket .Another soup can is soldered to the 10 can on the side to attach the output hose pipe. We don't want there to be enough oxygen to actually just burn all the material in there before we can extract the gases . So we are limiting this by using a one way gate valve . The one way valve is important to prevent flashbacks if too much oxygen is there inside the reactor . We load the reactor with wood sticks and put some starter down in there, which is just some cloth, some paper and a sprinkle some wood pellets on top just to give us something small to start off with. We pack the reactor leaving a spot in the center . The fans is turned on and we start the ignition process. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bvl5XxVVjDM
- DIY Video : How to build a Survival Water Distillation System for under $5 and turn Salt Water Into Fresh WaterThis project goes into the build a simple survival water distillation system to turn your salt water into drinkable fresh water. This setup can be made with little more than two glass bottles, some metal trays and some sand. So the primary components of this setup are two glass bottles, the wider the bottles are in diameter ,the better and a pair of metal trays. The first part of this process will be to prepare an area such that the two bottles can rest mouth to mouth. The important part is that one of them needs to be suspended over a heat source. This could be done over an open campfire, you just need to find a way to suspend the bottle above the flame either using rocks or logs. Cut a small notch on one side of the pan so that the neck of the bottles can sit a little lower in the pan. This is by no means necessary, but it will make the setup a little more secure. With the trays secured in place, both of them are now filled with sand. The sand will allow the trays to more efficiently act as heat sinks, one tray to cool one of the bottles and the other tray will be used to very evenly heat the other bottle so that it doesn't shatter from being heated too much on one side. The bottle is pressed firmly into the sand so that it gets good thermal contact and will be heated evenly. The second bottle is adjusted such that its mouth will meet up with the first and it is also pressed into the sand to obtain good thermal contact. Another reason that I'm using sand for this is because it makes it very easy to adjust the bottles angles and it is best to make the bottles meet up as evenly as possible so that there is not much room for water vapor to escape. We want it all to make it into this second bottle where it can condense as freshwater. As an additional measure to keep the cold half of the bottle cold, we wet the sand on this bottle with water or cover them with a wet cloth to allow evaporative cooling to take place. With such a large quantity of sand in this tray it does take a little while for it to reach the boiling point and get this process started. But once the sand has reached that point, it stays hot for a long time. So it is a pretty quick process as the water boils dry in this first bottle to simply refill it and you can continue on with the distillation process as long as you want. Rotate the bottle so that the top portion becomes hot from the steam, it is rotated into the cold sand below. And in that way the entire bottle maintains a cold temperature which causes the distillation to go much faster. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R_-wFiFdwAE
- DIY Video: How to build a really efficient Portable Ammo Box Wood Stove