This project goes over the build of a Homemade 19 Plate HHO Dry Cell Generator . The HHO generator works by the principle of electrolysis. Water is made from two types of atoms hydrogen and oxygen. Electrolysis is a method for splitting water into hydrogen and oxygen. Pure water isn’t electrically conductive, so we add either sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide to it to make it conductive.
To make the electrolyzer , we need electrode plates, neutral plates, gaskets, front and back plates with some metal reinforcements . The electrode plates and the neutral plates are made of 304 stainless steel sheets, the gaskets made from one eighth inch neoprene rubber sheet. The neutral plates are stacked in between the positive and the negative plates .The empty spaces are filled with neoprene gaskets. Water comes into the electrolyzer through the input tube and goes out as hydrogen and oxygen through the output tube.
When electricity is applied to the electrodes, the chemical reaction occurs, which causes the hydrogen from the water to go to one plate and the oxygen to the other plate where there they form bubbles of gas .Now the electricity wants to jump from the negative plate to the positive plate but since we have neutral plates between them, they divide the original voltage. This help in efficient HHO gas generation.
The plates are made of 12 X 12 .24ga 304 stainless steel sheets that is cut into four 6 inch pieces using tin snips . The plates are stacked together and holes are cut top and bottom for where the gas and the water comes in and leaves. To hold the plates together use seven inch cutting boards with metal support frames at both ends.
To differentiate between neutral plates and the electrode plates, we cut both corners of the neutral plates and only one corner of the electrode plates. So this way we can run a bolt from the positive to the other positive and negative to other negative end.
To assemble the cell, we place onto the base cutting board, the positive electrode plate and stack the neutral plates and the gaskets on them one by one and enclose them the negative electrode plate and the base board .Secure them with bolts on four corners. The electrode plates are then connected to each other with a thin gauge wire.
The next component for the build is some sort of a water reservoir. The reservoir is nothing more than a bottle that’s going to hold your electrolyte, which is distilled water and either sodium hydroxide.
The water reservoir is connected to the cell using two three eighth inch tubes, one going into the cell and other coming out . The other component that you’re going to need to build this HHO generator is some kind of a power supply that can generate 12V 30amps . This can be a car battery hooked up to a trickle charger, an old computer UPS supply or a 12V battery used for solar panels. The electrode cells are then secured on a wooden frame along with the power supply and the water bottle reservoir for easy portability.
Next you need a bubbler .This takes the HHO gas coming into it and diffuses them and gets broken into smaller bubbles. As those bubbles travel up the column of water inside the bubbler, it helps to filter out the sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide vapors .If your bubbler is set up correctly, then after being diffused and traveling up that column of water, it tends to get rid of most if not all those vapors.
To add a safety feature ,we drill the top of the bottle , remove the lid and cover it up with a plastic foil pressure membrane . If the pressure inside the bubbler increases in case of a flashback ,instead of the jar exploding, the pressure is able to escape through the membrane .
- How to build your own 24 X 24 Garage and save money. Step by Step Build InstructionsThis tutorial goes over the basic overview of a 24x24 , two 9 foot door,one side door window garage.First of all,you will need to take permission from the building inspector.The inspector makes sure that you are within zoning requirements.You will need the paperwork ,plot plan when you go to the building inspector and those are available from your assessor's office or the town hall or you may have one with your deed.Started with a bucket loader come in, take out some trees level off the area remove blushes and prep for the concrete work. The first step is to dig down and install the footings where the wall is kind of set.Here I have a four foot wall put in with the floating floor. Wall of the foundation is about six inches high, it goes into the ground four foot.And one reason that I wanted the wall foundation versus a flat pad foundation is because of the bug issues. After the footings are dry in a few days,the walls are put up and I have the openings for the two nine foot doors and a side door. After they dry for a few days,the floor screen is laid .This is a standard 4 inch thick flooring. Floating floor means that in reality, if the ground swells during the winter time, the floor can actually rise up and sink down. But it prevents it from cracking because it does have a little give to it. So it's not actually connected to this wall. It's poured right up against it, but the floor is a separate piece by itself. When the walls are poured every four foot they have a half inch threaded rod that's embedded into the concrete while it's still wet, it goes down about maybe a foot and a half has an L shape on the bottom in the rod will stick up directly in the center of the 2 X 4. 2 inlets for underground wiring,a 50 and 130 amp circuit.Its buried four foot down through the PVC. The walls are standard 2 X 4, a double sill plate and a top plate those are the two that run horizontally. I use pressure treated against the concrete which will take care of the bug issues. The headers for the garage door is standrd 2X10,double up half inch plywood in the center. The plywood on the three sides and trusses are put up.The trusses are put upside down and they are flipped up.But once they're up there I marked the top sills where I wanted them nailed them and put braces across the top,measure and straighten them out. The first truss on the end of the building on both ends is called the gable end. It's a little different than the other main trusses.The trusses are 24 inch on center, which means that they're spaced 24 inches apart,unlike the walls which are 16. The roof and the sides are on half inch plywood.I also run some stringers down the center and off to the sides to help so they won't twist during a snowstorm.One thing that's very important is when you put up the plywood the very first piece that you put on is the most important piece of wood that you're going to put on this garage because everything references off that one piece.It has to be square to the gable end . When the first piece of plywood is put up, you install the plywood ties between the trusses and all that does is if the roof gets moisture from inside the garage,it will tend to flex.The ties help in keeping them nice and flat and avoid the bowing. The truss catwalk goes right down the center that stabilizes the horizontal bottom piece of the truss. The doors are framed and roof is made of standard architectural shingles.These shingles have more lifespan.Also added tarpaper on the roof.The wiring is through down the center of the catwalk. The finished garage and the build videos
- Cool DIY Video : How to run a Gasoline Engine on Waste Vegetable oil / Used Motor oil .
- DIY Video:How to build a Homemade Double Barrel Garage Heater out of Old Water Tanks .Efficient,clean burn and cheap!This project goes over the build of Double Barrel Stove out of two old scrap water heaters for the shop. The first step is to disassemble both the old electric hot water heaters to get their tanks out. Take a grinder and cut a section off from the top of the water heater tank. This tank will become the bottom tank. Remove any calcium and mineral that ends up developing deposits inside the bottom of the tank. Take a 12 gauge plate steel and put our top drum upside down and scribe a circle out of them from the end and cut it. Weld the steel piece onto the drum. You need to do the same for the other drum too because with these double barrels, you are basically making two stoves, just connecting them in the middle. Now both the top tank and bottom tank ends have been polished and cleaned .Remove any insulations, paints and glues from them if they have any. Make sure all the rough pieces on the tank are welded on ground down. Cut a small piece of pipe that acts as stack between the 2 tank. Next step is to add a small support bracket on the top of the bottom tank that will help support the top tank. Cut a hole on the bottom tank .This will be where the stack goes between two of them. Fill the drain plug down at the bottom . Take the top tank, cut and weld the top exhaust stack that will be six inch outlet for the smoke. We also add a six inch inlet that goes up to the top that forces your your smoke and the gas has to go across the length of the barrel. The bottom barrel will be connected to this. Both barrels are welded together, the bottom barrel is welded onto the mid stack which connects the top barrel with the exhaust stack. In order to support the barrels, we take the scrap pipes lying around and make legs as a support structure for the stove. Next is the door fabrication. We cut a hole for the door in the bottom barrel. A couple of hinges, door catch are welded on to this end. An air inlet pipe is threaded onto a plate. The whole unit is then attached to the door. A handle is attached to the inlet pipe so you can open and close whenever you want to control the flow of the air intake. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fTj4pjJ4DT0