This project goes over the build of a Homemade 19 Plate HHO Dry Cell Generator . The HHO generator works by the principle of electrolysis. Water is made from two types of atoms hydrogen and oxygen. Electrolysis is a method for splitting water into hydrogen and oxygen. Pure water isn’t electrically conductive, so we add either sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide to it to make it conductive.
To make the electrolyzer , we need electrode plates, neutral plates, gaskets, front and back plates with some metal reinforcements . The electrode plates and the neutral plates are made of 304 stainless steel sheets, the gaskets made from one eighth inch neoprene rubber sheet. The neutral plates are stacked in between the positive and the negative plates .The empty spaces are filled with neoprene gaskets. Water comes into the electrolyzer through the input tube and goes out as hydrogen and oxygen through the output tube.
When electricity is applied to the electrodes, the chemical reaction occurs, which causes the hydrogen from the water to go to one plate and the oxygen to the other plate where there they form bubbles of gas .Now the electricity wants to jump from the negative plate to the positive plate but since we have neutral plates between them, they divide the original voltage. This help in efficient HHO gas generation.
The plates are made of 12 X 12 .24ga 304 stainless steel sheets that is cut into four 6 inch pieces using tin snips . The plates are stacked together and holes are cut top and bottom for where the gas and the water comes in and leaves. To hold the plates together use seven inch cutting boards with metal support frames at both ends.
To differentiate between neutral plates and the electrode plates, we cut both corners of the neutral plates and only one corner of the electrode plates. So this way we can run a bolt from the positive to the other positive and negative to other negative end.
To assemble the cell, we place onto the base cutting board, the positive electrode plate and stack the neutral plates and the gaskets on them one by one and enclose them the negative electrode plate and the base board .Secure them with bolts on four corners. The electrode plates are then connected to each other with a thin gauge wire.
The next component for the build is some sort of a water reservoir. The reservoir is nothing more than a bottle that’s going to hold your electrolyte, which is distilled water and either sodium hydroxide.
The water reservoir is connected to the cell using two three eighth inch tubes, one going into the cell and other coming out . The other component that you’re going to need to build this HHO generator is some kind of a power supply that can generate 12V 30amps . This can be a car battery hooked up to a trickle charger, an old computer UPS supply or a 12V battery used for solar panels. The electrode cells are then secured on a wooden frame along with the power supply and the water bottle reservoir for easy portability.
Next you need a bubbler .This takes the HHO gas coming into it and diffuses them and gets broken into smaller bubbles. As those bubbles travel up the column of water inside the bubbler, it helps to filter out the sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide vapors .If your bubbler is set up correctly, then after being diffused and traveling up that column of water, it tends to get rid of most if not all those vapors.
To add a safety feature ,we drill the top of the bottle , remove the lid and cover it up with a plastic foil pressure membrane . If the pressure inside the bubbler increases in case of a flashback ,instead of the jar exploding, the pressure is able to escape through the membrane .
- DIY Video :How to build your own Homemade Lumber Mill from Scratch .This projects goes over the build of a cheap homemade lumber mill using materials around your home This mill has a 12 inch saw blade purchased from Home Depot that cab do cross cuts, or it can do longitudinal rip cut.I am gonna be cutting the long direction on the word. First step is building the rollers. Four rollers are made out scrap materials lying around. The wheels are made of polycarbonate material .These are adjusted on a drill to ensure that they roll smoothly on the pipes. Next step is the build the tracks.Here I use 2 old steel pipes and welded to make a long one. 3 more pipes are welded on top of those 2 long pipes horizontally to give stability. Make sure the pipes are all lined up . 2 rolling carts are made from the leftover pipes tha slides across the pipes.Make sure these are parallel to each other.4 sliding pipes are bolted on these carts. 4 pieces of pipes are welded on top of these rolling pipes that are paralled to the horizontal pipes below .They act as a crank that can pull the sliding pipes. Threaded holes are put along the pipe that connects the sliding pipes.2 cables are connected in opposite ways to a small spring pulley system that can help sliding pipes move vertically up and down when the top crank is rotated. The Saw Blade is attached to a steel rod.The blade is attached to a washer on the other side to ensure it doesn't fly off. The axle is passed through a square metal box which is bolted using a bearing on both sides. The motors attaches to the top of the box mount .A pulley is then attached to the metal rod from the motor using a small wheel. The next step is to take whole side assembly thing attach it to the cart so it can pivot. Ball bearings are attached to the box on both sides.This must be placed at a very specific distance away from the blade. So that when I flip it the the edge of the blade will line up so it cuts clean without cutting deeper into the wood and without not cutting far enough and leaving it still attached.When its swiveled it will pivot the blade perfectly. Next step is make take the whole motor and blade assembly and attach it to our rails so that it can slide and rotate . We attached 2 pieces on both sides of the motor blade assembly to ensure that the system stays perfectly straight while cutting horizontal or vertical. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KtL7LoFeTyg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=txUgR7kYpgI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LUxo36NebVA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IOEHT1UrbKM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=deblj68KZug https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Axo2w5_qHd8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_uhvSBLY0Xc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5sPu_TcUtyU
- How to heat your Garage by building a Super Insulated Radiant Floor Heating SystemThis project goes over the installation of a homemade radiant floor hydronic heating system for the garage. The radiant floor heating uses a pex tubing that is installed along the floor of your garage or room . Hot water is passed through the tubing which radiates the heat out into the room or space. The first step is to figure out what size pex coil tubing and how big of a water heater you would need . Also how many feet of tubing would allow enough heat to exchange into the concrete floor to sufficiently warm up the entire space. The total BTU/hour or heat required will be based on the square footage of your garage or room . We begin by levelling the ground and start laying down a vapor barrier .The vapor barrier is made out of 6 Mil Visqueen plastic PE film .The barrier keeps the moisture from under the ground to rise up to the surface of the floor. We then lay a mixture of sand and packing gravel before installing the two inch extruded insulating polystyrene foam on the floor and the perimeter. Four circuits of 800 ft half inch Pex tubing is stapled down on two inches of polystyrene insulating foam using a pex stapler. The eight tube ends are routed upto to a box from where it is connected to a manifold which is mounted on to the wall. The pex tubing with the supply and return tube is connected to the manifold with the help of a compression fitting . To check if all the connections are OK or if there is any hole or leak in the tubing, connect the manifold to a 100 PSOI air pressure gauge to do a pressure test. Five inches of concrete is then poured over the pex tubing circuits. Saw cuts of less than an inch are made into the concrete to allow for the shrinkage during the curing process. To insulate the pex tubing and to prevent water from entering into the floor, an expanding foam sealant is filled near the junction where the concrete meets the supply and return tubing near the manifold. The heating components of this system are mounted on a 4 X 4 square sheet of plywood. The heater has a rating of 7.2kW . The heater is flow activated which requires a circulating pump to pump water through it which then activates the heater based on the temperature setting. Two 120V fractional horsepower circulating pumps are used , one for running the water through the heater and the other circulates out through the pex loops. The pump has an inbuilt garden hose connector system used for draining. The hot water coming out of the output end of the heater passes through a pressure tank which removes the air bubble with an air release valve and prevents any water hammer to the system. This is further connected to the flow activated circulating pump for the heater with connections for filing and draining the system with the help of shut off valves. The water then comes down to a stainless steel manifold and then flows through the supply end of the pex tubing . The heated water splits into four supply loops at the manifold into the concrete floor. The water then returns back to the return end of the manifold through the other four loops of pex tubing and goes straight through another circulating pump and a Y strainer filter before circulating back to the heater. Two thermometers are connected at the supply and return end of the pipe to know the temperature difference of the outdoing water and the returning water. The flow is controlled by a thermostat and a switching relay that turns on the circulating pump . https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLmHss3DBZUimsi9qV6RFJTUw6xh-P4B3Q
- How to build a Simple Homemade Water Distiller that turns dirty water/salt water into clean fresh pure waterThis project goes over the build of a Simple and cheap Homemade Stovetop Water Distiller.Turn your dirty,salt water into fresh drinking clean water fast.This setup is great for everyday or emergency use. Assembles/disassembles fast for easy portability. The material needed to make this distiller are : A teapot,10 feet copper coil, corrugated stainless steel or copper tube. The water source coupling is connected to a foot and a half corrugated three quarter inch copper pipe that further reduces to the half inch and then this is a connected to a 10 foot roll a half inch copper tubing. The three quarter inch threaded two half adapter is soldered to the 10 foot copper coil tubing. Bend the tube into a tight spiral. A Stainless steel or copper foot and half corrugated pipe goes into the 10 feet twisted copper coil. The end of the corrugated pipe goes into tea pot or water source connector. A total of 12 feet of coil. The steam rises without bringing any of the impurities along with it. The steam travels through the coils and slowly cools and condenses. It finally condenses back to its liquid form and drips out as clean water. In order to make it even go faster, put some cold towels around the coil or even submerged in water. A little bit of aluminum foil over the top is kept and the copper tube is extended down a little bit into the glass jar. Everything stays completely tight the whole time. You can make this distiller with that single corrugated copper tubing, but the more copper we add, the more time it has to condense down into purified liquid water. During the test,we have managed to acheive half a gallon in 2.5 hours. You can use this on the stovetop, rocket stove campfire, even a parabolic concentrator like dish cooker. Anyway to get that water boiling, then just hook it up like this. Makes tons of clean water really fast. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoEn5kfpTYI