This project goes over the detail on how you can take an old 55 gallon plastic drum and turn that into a hand crank washing machine and a compost tumbler.
The frameworks has uprights on the edges, holding up the barrel all the way down. The upright on the sides are 3 foot long 2 x 4. The base that it sits is 3 foot 2 X 4.Long brace that holds the two sides together is three foot eight inches long. You can take apart the whole framework by unscrewing the side rails and store the barrel for using them in an emergency situation.
The barrel sits on a one inch hardwood dowel which is installed through one inch hole at the top of the upright. These barrels have a line in the middle of them so it is pretty easy to find the center by measuring across the line and then dividing it in half.
The hand crank is made of PVC pipe with some screws to the end side of the barrel. The hand crank gives you something to grab onto if it gets very heavy so you can pull it back up and really move it around.
It has a one foot by one foot door on the front .We use couple of cheap cabinet hinges to hold the door up when unloading the clothes. It also has a little S hook latch that locks it into place.
A hole down in the middle of the barrel is for drainage. A small plug and a cap acts as a drain. The plug is put through the hole from inside and sealed with the help of PVC glue.
Next step is to add agitators to our barrel . As you rotate the barrel, the clothes will roll over those agitators back and forth and get the clothes moving a lot better and help clean it. We add 3 PVC pipes inside the barrel that act as the agitators.
You put clothes in through the top and add enough water just to cover the clothes, add any biodegradable liquid detergent and close the lid. Start moving the hand crank back and forth. This will agitate the clothes. The agitators slosh those clothes around, get them grinding against each other and that is going to clean all the dirt out of them.
After about 15 minutes of agitation, we pull the drainage plug off the bottom and drain the water or recycle it by collecting them underneath a bucket and pour it around your plants and trees. As long as we are using biodegradable soap/detergent, the soap and the dirt that is in your clothes isn’t going to hurt the plants.
We put the plug back on, and fill the barrel with some clean water and agitate for another 15 minutes. This is the rinse cycle. Pull the plug, drain that water or use it on your plants.
This setup can be also used a tumbling composter. Compost can be made of just about anything that was once alive .You can use leaves, grass clippings, garden waste, kitchen waste, chicken manure or any other waste material. Just dump all in there and turn the compost in there using our handle every couple of days for 2 weeks.
We want to keep the compost aerated so that the microbes and bacteria that break down the compost can utilize the oxygen efficiently and help in decomposition. After 2 to 3 weeks, you probably have some pretty decent compost that you can use on your garden. Also through the drain hole, we can collect the residue compost tea which is high in nutrients. You can use that compost tea for plants that really need a good dose of nitrogen.
- How to build an Off grid Rocket Mass Stove Hot Water heater using Copper Coils, Clay ,Sand. Also works as a cooktop!!!This project goes into the build of an off grid rocket mass heater for heating water without propane or electricity. This system also doubles as a cooktop. This rocket stove is really efficient and can create tremendous amount of free heat from little pieces of wood. The materials you need to build this rocket mass heater are copper coil , PVC pipes to make mould, clay and sand mixture, a frame for support, storage tank or drum ,oil, wood as fuel. The stove sits on a frame made from a wooden piece. Here an old chair is used as a base for support. The cob mixture made from clay, sand and water is poured on top of the frame as it is raised up. The next step is make hole for the air intake at the base of the stove. Also another hole is made for fuel intake at an angle to the base. We use PVC pipes as mould to make these holes. We lubricate the pipes with oil before covering them with mud so that they can be easily removed once the mould has been set and dry. A half cut lubricated PVC pipe is placed at the base of the support frame in front of another PVC which forms the body of the stove where the copper coil is wrapped. We start covering the PVC pipes with clay and sand mixture around the junction where the pipes meet. Once the mud has been filled and raised up , another PVC pipe at an angle is placed for the fuel intake. The copper coil is inserted into a well greased up PVC pipe . This section acts as the burn chamber where the coil gets heated up with the water inside. The coil is extended at the ends for the intake and the outlet .The bottom side of the coil is the intake of the cold water and the top for the hot water outlet. Fully pack the area around the copper coil and sides of the PVC pipe with the clay mixture such that the copper coils are completely covered . Pack the clay till you reach five to six inches above at the end of the pipe . This is done so that the top can be used for cooking or boiling. Once the clay and sand mixture is completely dried and set, we slowly take the PVC pipes out. Dig out the back end of both the holes so that all of them are connected to form a elbow shaped hole. The intake and the outlet copper tube is then connected to a water storage barrel. The intake pipe is connected near the bottom of the barrel where the cold water settles and the upper end of the copper coil is connected at the top where the hot water is collected. So the cold water that flows into the rocket stove, gets heated through the copper coil, and then due to the thermosiphon effect and natural convection ,the heated water is pumped through the other end of the coil on to the top of the barrel and this way the water is recirculated without the help of any external source. The cold water natural sinks down due to its higher density .The hot water becomes less dense once its heated , therefore it expands and rises up the coil to the water storage tank. Make sure that there is a height difference between the rocket stove and the water storage tank . The rocket stove always should be installed below the storage tank so that cold water naturally descends down into the stove and there is no backwards flow . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EUnQVIlAn6M
- DIY Video:How to build a Super Efficient ,Multi Use Homemade Ammo Can Rocket Stove. Inexpensive,Portable and Leaves no smoke….This project goes over the build an efficient clean burn multi use ammo can portable rocket stove . Easy to build , small ,portable , leaves no smoke. The reason it is smokeless is because it uses a secondary burn system . Also can be used as a cooking stove. The first thing you need is an old NATO ammo can. Remove the rubber seal that sits around the top of the can and replace it with a stove rope. The stove rope gets compressed when you close the stove with its closing mechanism and the smoke wont escape from around there. One the top, we have the flue made out of 2 inch stainless pipe .It has two sections, upper section slides onto the lower section. In order to build the flue, we take the top of the ammo can, then place the pipe on top and draw around it that gives the circumference. Take a grinder and simply cut across the shape. In order to get a smoke tight seal, we wrap some stove rope around the flue area we just cut and then insert the pipe and use a jubilee clip around the bottom and compress it against the stove rope. Once this gets up to working temperature, it draws cold air in from down below and expels it out at the top. So all the smoke from the stove gets drawn upwards. We use 2 turnbuckles as a stove door closing mechanism. There are two closing mechanisms on this door. One is a quarter turn latch. So you rotate it, the door opens ,you close and then you rotate it and it locks the door closed. Another mechanism is using a long piece of metal. You can turn each of these a quarter turn and that locks the door extremely tight to fit these turnbuckles . The stove baffle plate is made out of 0.8mm thick thin steel. To make it, measure it up against the stove and bent the steel into that shape. The baffle helps in generating more heat as it keeps the air from escaping the burn chamber. A secondary pipe made of galvanized steel pipe comes from back of the stove and comes across the stove through a small hole. The pipe has been drilled with small holes. When the stove is in operation, this draws in cold air from outside, it gets pre-heated on the way down across the burn chamber. And then the pre-heated air rises and is expelled naturally through these holes. And since this pipe is just under the baffle plate, it reignites the smoke and the smoke is burnt on the way across the upper section of the stove. The stove is insulated using fibreglass and stainless steel from three sides inside, helps in efficient secondary burn. You just need enough insulation to get the temperature high enough to get secondary burn. If the whole stove is insulated then the heat would dissipate through the flue instead. The bottom of the stove is insulated using half inch rockwool and on top we have some chicken wire that stops the burning fuel from sitting on the bottom of the stove and being starved of oxygen. It allows the oxygen to get underneath and burn all the way around the wood efficiently. The primary air is drawn in through an air intake at the side of the stove. To attach it to the stove, bend the pipe around the side and place a jubilee clip and stove rope around to insulate it. So when the stove is in operation, you can add sticks, twigs, pellets or anything you want without opening the door. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BUz6Ai2yAxE Burn Video : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vd7RFwyQxrI
- How to build a Homemade Wooden Bandsaw Mill from Scratch.Step by step build InstructionsThis project goes over the build of a simple Homemade Bandsaw mill that can that turn hard maple into smaller lumber . The first step is to make the wheels of the mill. Here we use a three quarter MDF board to make this. The wheel size is 16 inch. We use a beam compass to cut circles and cut two wheels out of them. We make a seven and half pulley for the wheel using a three quarter inch plywood and drill a five eighth inch hole into the middle where the shaft goes. We take some hot melt glue and glue the stock collar onto the pulley and tighten it with a set screw so as to stop it from spinning. Before joining the wheel and pulley together, we make another small disc to go in between to act as a spacer .We glue the pulley to this spacer and from spacer to the wheel. Two wheel bearing blocks are bolted to the wheel on both sides using 4 three eighth inch threaded rods. Make sure that the threaded rods are tight inside the hole in the wheel, but the bearing blocks itself can move around. One way to keep these bearing blocks in place so that they dont move side to side is to apply some construction adhesive to the corners. Next step is building the frame for the saw from salvaged 2 X 4 boards. Make sure that the 2X 4's are straight. Take the bench hand plane and smoothen the edges so that the boards sit flat. It takes several shallow passes flipping the woods each time to get rid of all the twists and warps. Two frames pieces hold the wheel in ,the stationary drive wheel is placed eight and half inches from the end. Two five eighth inch holes are drilled on both the frames so that axles fits in there neatly. On the other side, one holes are drilled that gives the room to adjust the wheel. We also make an adjustment collar out of plywood that is bolted into the frame and the shaft . The collar can be moved to adjust the wheel. We also place couple of pieces across the frame and secure them tight so that the supporting boards are locked in position. On the other side we install the front wheel or top wheel. This wheel needs to move back and forth to put tension on the blade. It also must have a tracking mechanism. For that we make a two small piece that locks into the shaft on the front wheel and slides back and fourth. A guide piece is drilled onto to this piece . A one inch hole is drilled into our slider piece and a three eighth inch threaded rod is secured in there with a nut and washer. These rods help put tension on the blade and also adjusts tracking. Before putting the blades on the wheels, we put silicone caulking on the wheels to smoothen it out .These have advantage over bicycle inner tubes as it doesn't drape down over. The legs are attached to the frame using gusset blocks. To put the motor onto the frame , we take a melamine board and screw them aside the stationary wheel using a cross board. This piece of melamine not only supports the motor, it also helps to brace up the top to keep that from rocking. Secure them tight so that it resists moving while the cutting is going on. Next we make blade guides near the bottom to make a guard for the blades just in case it snaps and flies off. The blade guides are made of small piece of steel angle that is glued to a ceramic piece. The way blade guides work is that they don't actually touch the blade when it is running. It is only when the blade tries to move up or down that it will constrain it and keep it on track and prevent it from twisting. A thrust bearing made of regular size ball bearings is bolted onto an aluminum angle that is further attached to the blade guide. We make a dolly cart out of 2 X 4 boards and some castors to place the big maple logs and move it effortlessly through the blades . The castors are screwed in the ends using quarter inch holes. The castors are fixed in such a way that it moves only in one direction back and forth. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rhFEVf8zZkg&list=PLQl9KPrpiIH9Sk0wEiN9d0ANUOK-ntV-i