This project goes into the build of a homemade water fueled radiant Air heater / Air Cooler that can blow cold air or hot air into your room or space using a heat exchanger and an old car radiator fan . This system can pump out cold air at 1500 CFM with the temperature reaching 55F and heat output at almost 170 F. The entire system is powered by a 100W Solar Panel and costs around 60 to 70 dollars . The major advantage of using this cooler is that it doesnt add any humidity to the air.
The materials you need to build this Cooler/ Heater are as follows. Standard bilge water pump or aquarium pump or 12V DC fan for solar, seven inch 12V 80W car radiator fan, 10 X 12 piece of plywood, a couple of eleven inch 2 x4’s, 8 X 8 heat exchanger, one inch PVC tubing , a couple of hose barbs with coupler , a tub to hold the ice or hot water . A 12V DC heating element can also be used to warm up the water
The first step is building a frame to hold the heat exchanger and the car radiator fan together. This is done by a taking couple of 11 inch 2 X4 ‘s and mount them parallel to each other on a 10 X 12 inch piece of plywood. A hole is cut on the plywood to place the car radiator fan . The heat exchanger is attached on the back side of the fan just between those two eleven inch 2 X 4’s.The heat exchanger is rated for over 25k BTU’s and covers about 1000 sq ft that can heat or cool an entire living space.
A tub containing Ice cold water or hot water is used as a source of heat or cold . The Water pump submerged into the water source is connected to the inlet tubing . This pumps the cold or hot water into the input of the heat exchanger . The car radiator fan is powered on using the 100 W solar panel and the hot or cold air radiates into the room or space. The water returns back into the tub through the other tubing .
The solar panel is connected to a speed controller that is further connected to the radiator fan to adjust the air flow.
The 200gph water pump with the half inch pipe is connected to the inch pipe main tubing using half inch barbed to inch threaded and inch threaded to inch barbed and a threaded PVC coupler.
To make the hot water , we use a 150W DC Water heating element . The heat element is connected at the base of the tub or barrel . This unit is powered by a solar panel . You can use an AC powered immersion water heater if there is no option for solar.
A 100W Solar panel is powering the 80W Car radiator fan and 12V 350 GPH Bilge pump that is used to pump the water to the heat exchanger and back . It also powers Heating element if you plan to heat the water this way. Another way to heat the water is using a 50 ft copper tubing. The water is pumped through the copper tubing using a small pump and a 5W Solar panel and heat it up. The hot water is then passed through to heat exchanger .
- DIY Video: How to build a really efficient Portable Multi Purpose Ammo Box Wood StoveThis project goes into the build of an efficient portable ammo can wood stove that can warm your space, act as a cooking stove, baking oven and an alternative for ground fires at camp sites. This ammo stove is compact and doesn't take up additional storage . All the basic components used in this stove are modular and can be stored inside the stove when not in use. These components are easily available in your local hardware store. The basic components needed to build this stove are as follows. The ammo box called the "fat 50 "is purchased from an army surplus store for $30 , the titanium stove pipe for $100 , the metal for the control dial and the door is salvaged from old barbecues. Rest of the basic tools needed are grinder, blow torch, hack saw ,rivet gun and a drill press. Not only you can use wood logs, paper, twigs but it also runs on wood pellets. The system has a gravity fed hopper that feeds the pellets intermittently for consistent heat over a longer period of time. For maximizing the burn, a divided combustion chamber is used. This forces the burn to go around a sealed baffle before it exits out the stove pipe providing less smoke and retaining more heat. A thick steel plate is used as a cook top which is rescued from an old barbeque . This plate absorbs the heat for cooking and is removable thereby protecting the stove top. Additional feature is a baking oven underneath the stove. The first step to build is simply removing the lid of the ammo can stove which just slides of the hinges. Remove the rubber gasket on the back side of the lid using a plier . This rubber gasket is replaced using 3/8th inch stove rope. This provides heat resistant seal from smoke. Remove the handle by drilling along the spot welds on the sides of the handle just enough to weaken them and pull it using a screwdriver . Two holes of three inches are drilled at the top surface of the stove . These are done to fit in the titanium stove pipe and for the gravity fed hopper system. We use a three inch propane fuel cylinder tube to make a pipe collar as a guide to trace out the holes. These pipe collars acts as hopper support for gravity fed pellet mechanism and for securing the stove pipe. The hole for the first pipe is about five and half inches away from the door hinge and the second one , one and half inches away. The holes are then cut using a jigsaw. The flanges in the stove pipe collars are made by securing them against a wooden fixture and bent them using a hammer. The edges are heated with a torch to anneal the metal for hardening. Before inserting the stove collars into the lid, the metal sheet inside the lid was removed. Using fiber glass cloth, a smoke seal is made around the collars. The collars are then inserted and the metal sheet is reinstated with help of some stainless steel rivets. A adjustable damper is installed inside one of the collars .These damper provide control to both burning speed and fire intensity. Also the damper in a closed state also acts a base for a steamer or a boiler. The damper is made using a thin steel cut out of a disc , the size of the inside pipe diameter. The shaft from a barbeque skewer is inserted along slots drilled in the disc holding them underneath the collar. Inside the combustion chamber ,we have two dividers installed. One divides the combustion chamber and the bottom one separates the oven from the stove . The top divider acts as an inner wall . The combustion has to travel around the corner and then go outside through the stove pipe at the end. This collects more heat and has less smoke build up inside. The side door openings are four inches high and three and three eighth inches wide. The door is made out of thick steel plate which was salvaged from an old barbeque. The door has three holes for the air intake and it is supported by a regular door hinge. A small circle metal piece at the front regulates the amount of flow that goes into the stove. A secondary burn system is introduced inside the stove so that the air coming into the upper part of the combustion chamber where all the smokes ascends gets reignited . This drastically improves the efficiency of the stove. Here we use couple of half inch black iron pipe that is connected with 2 90 degree elbow and an end cap. Holes are drilled on the pipe so that the fresh air is introduced into the chamber. A hole at the side of the stove is made the air intake. The pipe is inserted into the chamber and secured in place using a coupling and a spacer. A 3 X 4 inch duct adapter is used as a funnel for the gravity fed hopper system. To make this efficient , we add a small cage made of door basket inside the chamber so that all the pellets wont drop suddenly to the bottom. The cage is made from the metal rods from the basket. The rods are spaced 8mm apart and put straps across both sides and secured it using rivets. To prevent the overflow of pellets inside the cage, a two and half inch tailpipe is placed at a specific distance below the hopper. This helps the pellet build up in the cage but not overflow. Now there is a sustained release of pellets at all time for a consistent burn. Stainless steel tent stakes are placed at the bottom of the stove riveted to a metal plate. This prevents the bottom from burning out and also improves air flow. Also acts as ash collector. To use this stove as a light source, we make a small window out of half mm natural mica glass. We use a fiberglass cloth to form a seal around window. It is held by green painters tape. After positioning the glass, spacers are added around the edge . These metal strips allow for the mica to expand and contract. Another metal frame is used to hold all these in place. The portable stove pipe is made out of titanium rolls. The titanium prevents corrosion and also distributes the heat efficiently. To make a long cylinder without denting the foil, unroll the film across the ground, roll it small enough to get the clips on ,spacing them evenly along the length of the pipe. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t3XOLLg8wn0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CskimuvL4ZI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TsHSfZ-nwws
- How to build a Homemade Wooden Bandsaw Mill from Scratch.Step by step build InstructionsThis project goes over the build of a simple Homemade Bandsaw mill that can that turn hard maple into smaller lumber . The first step is to make the wheels of the mill. Here we use a three quarter MDF board to make this. The wheel size is 16 inch. We use a beam compass to cut circles and cut two wheels out of them. We make a seven and half pulley for the wheel using a three quarter inch plywood and drill a five eighth inch hole into the middle where the shaft goes. We take some hot melt glue and glue the stock collar onto the pulley and tighten it with a set screw so as to stop it from spinning. Before joining the wheel and pulley together, we make another small disc to go in between to act as a spacer .We glue the pulley to this spacer and from spacer to the wheel. Two wheel bearing blocks are bolted to the wheel on both sides using 4 three eighth inch threaded rods. Make sure that the threaded rods are tight inside the hole in the wheel, but the bearing blocks itself can move around. One way to keep these bearing blocks in place so that they dont move side to side is to apply some construction adhesive to the corners. Next step is building the frame for the saw from salvaged 2 X 4 boards. Make sure that the 2X 4's are straight. Take the bench hand plane and smoothen the edges so that the boards sit flat. It takes several shallow passes flipping the woods each time to get rid of all the twists and warps. Two frames pieces hold the wheel in ,the stationary drive wheel is placed eight and half inches from the end. Two five eighth inch holes are drilled on both the frames so that axles fits in there neatly. On the other side, one holes are drilled that gives the room to adjust the wheel. We also make an adjustment collar out of plywood that is bolted into the frame and the shaft . The collar can be moved to adjust the wheel. We also place couple of pieces across the frame and secure them tight so that the supporting boards are locked in position. On the other side we install the front wheel or top wheel. This wheel needs to move back and forth to put tension on the blade. It also must have a tracking mechanism. For that we make a two small piece that locks into the shaft on the front wheel and slides back and fourth. A guide piece is drilled onto to this piece . A one inch hole is drilled into our slider piece and a three eighth inch threaded rod is secured in there with a nut and washer. These rods help put tension on the blade and also adjusts tracking. Before putting the blades on the wheels, we put silicone caulking on the wheels to smoothen it out .These have advantage over bicycle inner tubes as it doesn't drape down over. The legs are attached to the frame using gusset blocks. To put the motor onto the frame , we take a melamine board and screw them aside the stationary wheel using a cross board. This piece of melamine not only supports the motor, it also helps to brace up the top to keep that from rocking. Secure them tight so that it resists moving while the cutting is going on. Next we make blade guides near the bottom to make a guard for the blades just in case it snaps and flies off. The blade guides are made of small piece of steel angle that is glued to a ceramic piece. The way blade guides work is that they don't actually touch the blade when it is running. It is only when the blade tries to move up or down that it will constrain it and keep it on track and prevent it from twisting. A thrust bearing made of regular size ball bearings is bolted onto an aluminum angle that is further attached to the blade guide. We make a dolly cart out of 2 X 4 boards and some castors to place the big maple logs and move it effortlessly through the blades . The castors are screwed in the ends using quarter inch holes. The castors are fixed in such a way that it moves only in one direction back and forth. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rhFEVf8zZkg&list=PLQl9KPrpiIH9Sk0wEiN9d0ANUOK-ntV-i
- How to build a Portable 420 watt Solar Power Generator . Very Detailed Video Instructions,perfect for beginnersThis project goes over the build of a 240W Solar Generator made out of an ammo box.The box is large enough to hold a 240 watt deep cycle battery. There are some basic tools that you are going to need to build this generator.Number one tool, you're going to need a drill. If you don't have a drill, you can find one at Home Depot, you don't have to spend a lot of money.Next thing you're going to need is a screwdriver. Next, you're going to need wire cutter, a wire cutting and stripping tool. And it's also got a crimper on there. To drill the holes in the metal ammo box,you need a step up drill bit which can drill different sized holes, using all the same drill bit.You will need a pair of pliers which might be handy when you are cutting and manipulating wires and then basic wire cutters which also we have on the pliers. The next thing that you're going to need is the heart of the generator, which would be the battery. Now this is a rayovac deep cycle battery.I recommend that you use a V max deep cycle battery. The next thing you're going to need is a USB port. This is a two port device, it's got a one amp outlet and a 2.1 amp outlet.You're also going to need a 12 volt outlet. Faceplate,blade fuse holder,terminal connectors,switch,self tapping screws,14 gauge 17 amp black and red wires. We use a 3 prong switch,one of them gold in color which is the negative terminal and the other two positive.Purpose of the switch is to control your USB outlet. And it's what turns the USB outlet on and off. The positive terminal on the USB outlet is first going to run to the positive terminal on the switch.Now the purpose of this switch is to break the electrical current when you turn it off. So positive terminal goes to positive terminal, then the second positive terminal on that switch goes to the positive terminal on the battery. So you've got a flow of electricity going from positive through this switch to the positive terminal on the USB port. The negative terminal on the switch goes to the negative terminal on the battery. The only purpose of that terminal is to control the LED light on the switch, it needs the both positive and negative electrical currents in order to turn that light on. Similarly for the 12V port,positive connector going to positive terminal going to the positive terminal on the battery. Lets start the build. Start with drilling holes for the ports using the faceplate.Get your marker and simply trace the inside from both the top and the bottom.So that's where your holes are gonna go. Now we want to find the exact centers that when we're drilling. Insert the 12V and the USB outlet into the holes which we have just drilled. Now these ports have a little ring that screws on the back. This is what holds it in place. Next thing we're going to install is the power switch and SAE Solar Power Socket and the voltmeter. To begin wiring our tabs batteries, you're going to need a few things. Number one, you're going to need a battery. Number two, you're going to need your quick disconnects. You're going to need your squeeze connector connector,your wire cutters and stripping tool and you're going to need black and red wires. Place the vmax battery into the ammo box.So we've got everything in place, we have our ports in place, we have our battery in place, we've got our switch in place, and our volt meter. We're gonna start by wiring the USB port. The positive connection of the USB port is connected to the positive of the switch which is further connected to the positive of the battery.The negative connection of the USB is connected to the negative of the battery. This switch will break the flow of electricity on the positive side and that's what's going to turn our USB port on and off. Using squeeze connectors,USB port negative terminal is now connected to the same negative terminal as the 12 volt port.Connect the positive terminal from the switch to the positive wire which is coming from the 12 volt port and continue that positive flow from the switch to the positive terminal on the battery . So we now have our USB port and our 12 volt outlet connected to the battery through the power switch. We've got the negative terminal of the USB port, going to the negative terminal on the battery, we have the positive terminal of the USB port.Then we've got a positive going from the switch to the positive on the battery all through quick disconnects. The negative terminal on the battery going to the negative terminal on the switch simply allows the switch LED light to turn on without this negative current flow of electricity. This the LED light has no power.So we want to give that light power by connecting to the negati.ve terminal on the battery. The negative of the Voltmter is directly connected to the battery and using insulated clamps,we connect positive wire that's already running to the switch for the USB port.Now we want to connect to the positive wire leading to the positive terminal on the switch so that the volt meter will turn on and off with the switch button. Next, we're going to cover the SAE port. We want to be able to have the battery charged when we plug this into a charger.Using the squeeze connector we connect the positive to the positive terminal of the battery.And then same thing for the negative, you would take your squeeze connector and connect to the negative. Lastly,A 15amp fuse is used to protect the generator from overloading. If you connect at current that is too high for their internal wiring to handle, the fuse will break and it will stop all electrical current from flowing.So if anything goes wrong in any of this wiring, it has to get past the fuse before it reaches the battery. So if there's anything that's that's overheating, or overloading this fuse is gonna blow and it's gonna protect your battery from being damaged . Next step is connecting a solar panel to your generator .We connect the panel to the charge controller and then from the charge controller to your ammo generator. A charge controller prevents the battery from overcharging. You don't want to get over 15 volts. Here we use Renogy 30 watt solar panel, this panel comes by default, with an SAE connector on the back. This is the same kind of connector that plugs into your generator. Connect the wires coming out of the Solar Panel into the charge controller.Next is connecting the SAE cord from the generator to the charge controller. So you just put the panel on the charge controller, the charge controller into the generator, and you're done. If you want the whole system to be portable, say you want to be able to take your solar panel and your generator camping, you want to keep things as simple as possible, you could actually mount the charge controller directly onto the back of your panel. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MVVRPUHUMUo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DW6C-ZjmRzo