DIY Video : How to build an Ammo Can Double Burner Rocket Stove from scratch . Step by step Build Video Instructions



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    • DIY Video: How to build a Homemade Gravity fed ,Drip Waste Oil Heater for your Garage .Clean and Efficient
      This project goes over the build of a simple gravity drip fed waste oil burner that can be used to heat your shop/garage efficiently.It heats up the garage to about 30 to 40 degrees. Hot air from the center pipe reaches up to 500 degree celsius. Once dialed in, the smoke clears and the burner is stable at 400'C. The materials needed for this project are grinder,MiG welder,plasma cutter, scrap propane tank,hammer,enclosed brake disc, steel cooking pan, 4 inch 10ft pipe, bolts and iron rod and temperature sensor to keep track of the heat. The footing and the chimney pipe is welded onto the propane tank.Add a pipe right through the middle and weld the retainers for the pan and the legs around the vessel. To improve the airflow , we cut bunch of holes around the legs. Also added some more spaces on the legs to keep the temperature away from the concrete floor. We also make a venting hole on both sides at the middle of the propane tank . To adjust the temperature, we add 2 7/16 primary holes right at the base above the heating pan. You control the burner by adjusting the input airflow into the burning chamber. Don't make the air holes for the draft on the burner too big but have plenty of holes so that with the increase the temperature and the increase in airspeed, the draft the fresh air can actually get to the burner, and you will get cleaner burn. These secondary holes allow for more oil splatter to leave the burner if any water content is present. The drip system is kept open which helps you to check how much oil flow is there and also as a safety precaution. If there is any kind of flashback, it will pop out of here and not go all the way through the the pipe back into the reservoir. This whole system is completely serviceable, completely mobile,not bolted down.You can unhook the chimney, the exhaust pipe, remove the drip system pipe and the rest. The drip system is made of heavy pipe and a small ball valve that is welded in place at the distance and at a specific height so as to dissipate the heat coming from the burner. Also you dont want the oil to reverse its direction and go back into the pipe. With the help of a fans, we increase the heat dispersion. With two fans,one blows hot air away from the wall and the other allows extra air for the burn.It pulls cold air from the floor and allows fresh air intake. Effective heating and keep the heat away from the wall. To start the system, we pour the waste oil onto the steel pan and place it under the burner. Make sure you dont have any trace of water in the pan or oil. The oil will splatter out of the secondary holes if there is water.The more you can bring in to the burning chamber,the more it will burn and more it will smoke. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAPOkkwXoxY https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Yz0tjDfYL0
    • Cool DIY Video: How to build a Window Attached Solar heater that gives “FREE HEAT” all winter and acts as Solar Oven as Well !
      Solar heaters are gaining popularity and with good reason- they provide heat. This design uses solar fans to move the heat into the room so its totally off grid and will work during a power outage. Because it is attached to the window it can also be closed by shutting the window and keep the heat inside the unit for off grid solar cooking. This design also allows the unit to be attached all year for ease of use and can keep the heat from entering the home when its not needed. Solar cook all summer, heat all winter; Save money all year!

      Watch Window Box Solar Heater build video

    • How to build your own 24 X 24 Garage and save money. Step by Step Build Instructions
      This tutorial goes over the basic overview of a 24x24 , two 9 foot door,one side door window garage.First of all,you will need to take permission from the building inspector.The inspector makes sure that you are within zoning requirements.You will need the paperwork ,plot plan when you go to the building inspector and those are available from your assessor's office or the town hall or you may have one with your deed.Started with a bucket loader come in, take out some trees level off the area remove blushes and prep for the concrete work. The first step is to dig down and install the footings where the wall is kind of set.Here I have a four foot wall put in with the floating floor. Wall of the foundation is about six inches high, it goes into the ground four foot.And one reason that I wanted the wall foundation versus a flat pad foundation is because of the bug issues. After the footings are dry in a few days,the walls are put up and I have the openings for the two nine foot doors and a side door. After they dry for a few days,the floor screen is laid .This is a standard 4 inch thick flooring. Floating floor means that in reality, if the ground swells during the winter time, the floor can actually rise up and sink down. But it prevents it from cracking because it does have a little give to it. So it's not actually connected to this wall. It's poured right up against it, but the floor is a separate piece by itself. When the walls are poured every four foot they have a half inch threaded rod that's embedded into the concrete while it's still wet, it goes down about maybe a foot and a half has an L shape on the bottom in the rod will stick up directly in the center of the 2 X 4. 2 inlets for underground wiring,a 50 and 130 amp circuit.Its buried four foot down through the PVC. The walls are standard 2 X 4, a double sill plate and a top plate those are the two that run horizontally. I use pressure treated against the concrete which will take care of the bug issues. The headers for the garage door is standrd 2X10,double up half inch plywood in the center. The plywood on the three sides and trusses are put up.The trusses are put upside down and they are flipped up.But once they're up there I marked the top sills where I wanted them nailed them and put braces across the top,measure and straighten them out. The first truss on the end of the building on both ends is called the gable end. It's a little different than the other main trusses.The trusses are 24 inch on center, which means that they're spaced 24 inches apart,unlike the walls which are 16. The roof and the sides are on half inch plywood.I also run some stringers down the center and off to the sides to help so they won't twist during a snowstorm.One thing that's very important is when you put up the plywood the very first piece that you put on is the most important piece of wood that you're going to put on this garage because everything references off that one piece.It has to be square to the gable end . When the first piece of plywood is put up, you install the plywood ties between the trusses and all that does is if the roof gets moisture from inside the garage,it will tend to flex.The ties help in keeping them nice and flat and avoid the bowing. The truss catwalk goes right down the center that stabilizes the horizontal bottom piece of the truss. The doors are framed and roof is made of standard architectural shingles.These shingles have more lifespan.Also added tarpaper on the roof.The wiring is through down the center of the catwalk. The finished garage and the build videos