DIY Video : How to heat your Garage for FREE by building a Super Insulated Radiant Floor Solar Thermal Water Heating System from Start to finish



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    • How to build a Homemade Copper Pipe Solar Water Heater and get super hot water fast and free
      This project goes over the build of a Homemade Copper Pipe Solar Thermal Water heater which can produce super hot water fast .This reaches temperature at or above 150F with air temperature from high 40's to low 50's. Here are the materials needed for this project are : Two 10 foot half inch copper pipes - Type L 16 half inch 90 degree elbows 18 tube straps 23 X 35 half inch plywood for the back 18 X 20 half inch plywood for the pipe support 2 X 2 lumber at 20 and 35" for the sides 4 and 3/8 inch square dowel rods for the glass support 1/2 inch threaded pipe adapter 3/4" to 1/2" garden hose PVC adapter 1/2 inch coupler. The first step is to cut down a bunch of two foot sections out of the 10 foot sections using a copper cutter. We cut 7 of them and 2 more for the top and bottom which are 30 inches each. Next we cut 8 sections of 1 1/8" for the connecter pieces between elbow joints. This allows the pipe to be spaced exactly two inches apart on the board evenly all the way up and down Connect the pipes using couple of elbows and a 2 inch connecter piece and solder them .Do it for the rest of the pipes. Slide the pipes into the plywood frame collector and fasten them onto it using 3/8 inch screws to be more secure. A small internal board is placed onto this frame which helps the pipe to lay flat inside .Also it holds the pipe at right height so that it exits through the right holes. It allows for the pipe to be easily removed from the collector frame. Cut the wooden dowel rods and put inside the collector to support the glass. Sand them a little bit so that the copper pipe will fit back through. A straight coupler is welded on to the end of outlet then you can add any pipe or connecter or wherever you want the water to go. The inner board is secured to the back board using some three quarter inch screws. The 4 corners of the 2 X 2 wood frame is secured using 2 and half inch wood screws and the corners of the back board is secured by one and one half inch screws. A 20 X 32 inch glass is placed on the frame with the help of some silicone caulk around the edge. The highest piece of copper in there is eighth of an inch away from the glass and its painted black. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uOQEXmyHRs
    • How to build a Simple Homemade Wind Generator from Old Ceiling Fan ,Microwave Oven Parts ,Old TV Antenna and other free junk
      This project goes over the build of a homemade wind generator built from random junk ceiling fan ,microwave oven transformer ,office chair, an old piece of a TV tower, and some random electrical stuff. The blades are also from an old ceiling fan .It is extended with some wood and fibreglass on it to make it stronger. A scrap piece of pipe is attached as a shaft to the hub of the turbine. An office chair frame which can move freely is welded to the pole/post of the turbine. This is welded to an old TV Tower. 4 magnets are glued on the hub. The frame of an old microwave oven transformer is cut .Its core is exposed and that is welded onto the brackets. The magnets pass over the transformer core and induction takes place creating electric current. We can use that current to charge a battery or to power lights or whatever. A multi transformer setup would generate more power. We hook up a rectifying diode to convert from AC to DC and some capacitors which can even out the voltage and give us direct current. Also a diode to block the current from the battery to go up back up to the generator. This set up can charge small batteries. A piece of sheet metal is welded onto the bracket of the ceiling fan. Four magnets are spaced apart and aligned along their respective poles in north-south directions and glued to the bracket using 2 part epoxy. To generate more wattage from the wind generator ,we use an old 120V DC lawnmower motor. Because we have multiple poles, we have magnets that are really close to the armature, this is a way better motor to use. The only downfall of this is that it has brushes, eventually it's the brushes are going to wear out, you probably get a few years out of it before you need to replace those. This motor would probably put out about 100 watts. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1k8aHz6xlXg
    • DIY Video :How to build a Wood Stove that runs a generator, produces gasoline,runs a fridge and act as a water heater at the same time
      This is a wood powered gasifier stove that produces gasoline runs your generator, runs your propane hot water heater, heats hot water for you all off the grid. A simple design of a mini gasifying woodstove prototype here you've got some open latches, open up the door, the doors got the baton handle so it naturally stops on the downfall Inside the firebox, I've got a gasification style system built in there.One of the key things about a gasifying woodstove is that not only can I run it in a typical gasification wood stove manner, heat my home. But if I reverse that action with a fan and a draw system underneath the stove, with the ability to shut off the flow out the chimney pipe, and then draw down underneath the stove, reverse the action of the system, I can produce syn gas that can go outside and into a generator. This system has little latch up here at the top drops open so you can get in there work the material around.By actually pulling the little latch out and the bottom of the main gasifier inside of there to shut it and rotate it locks into place .It is actually a dump plate on the bottom of the main gasification chamber so that all the ash and all the coal that's not burned can dump out of the system into a tray below. A secondary burn system with two layers of stove pipe, one smaller inner diameter stove pipe and one larger one is made for a better burn to take place with fresh air inlets right there in the chamber. The outer sleeve stops below the bottom allows air to travel up in between rise up to the pipe.There is a set of burner holes that makes sure to mix fresh oxygen that creates a swirl in there and helps burn any leftover syn gas in the production system. So there's no smoke coming out of this in the end. Inside the woodstove is the inner chamber holds all your material, it gets hot and then creates an airdrop between this outer wall and the inner chamber wall that airdrop comes out these holes mixes fresh oxygen into the top of the system with the smoke and burns it. The bottom holes allow air to dry in from the bottom to complete that burn as the material burns down to the bottom. It also works slightly as a venturi system as air is drawn up these walls towards these holes, creates a vacuum down here at the bottom holes and pull some of the smoke out a downward draw into the system and pull some of it into here helping mix some of the smoke With the air and will swirl it so it'll burn cleanly. The single air inlet hole is used to pull the smoke out of the bottom to reverse this process to put syn gas out of this stove outside into a generator. There is inner set of holes in the bottom of the stove pipe.This helps mix air between the walls.The air gets drawn up between the wall since the inner pipe is longer than the outer pipe which mixes fresh air and completes the secondary burn to make sure there's no smoke coming out of this pipe. This is gonna be the bio crude oil production system here which is basically another term for a creosote that you produce from syn gas production, otherwise known as gasification production. It's got just a single pipe rolling out of the backside of it which is connected to a creosote collection container. As this gas starts to cool, it's going to come up to here it's going to work its way up hill, as it does so the hydrogen inside of the gas will be the lightest of all the gas is traveling uphill and definitely make it over the top much of the creosote we built re drip down into the second collection container here. Now the rest of its gonna go up cross through the pipe here and come down to a condenser The reactor shown here is made of two of five gallon steel cans.I cut the top off of one and the bottom off of another and slid them over each other. So they make a really long slide seal over each other one pipe, as you can tell here, welded in. With an elbow, it's a one inch pipe coming out of the back of they're welded in with an elbow. The downward slope of the pipe force the smoke to release as much of this crude as it possibly can. Because it's actually wanting to go uphill, which would be easy to smoke not going to cool real quickly. by forcing it slightly downhill, we're forcing a lot of that heat energy out, making sure it's releasing a lot of that, let's call it creosote or bio crude. It also allows for the creosote to roll down the bottom of the pipe into a container. The gas moves through a reduction point which reduces the pressure.The gas gets refined and reduced slightly in volume through the system. Hydrogen, carbon monoxide and all the rest of the lighter gases are going to easily flow up this pipe through thermodynamic pressure. Now you've cooled a lot of that gas by running it downhill, trying to bring in into this lower container as much the second grade creosote as you can, or biocrude. Now by running it up hill again, you can really force all the heavy hydrocarbons and other elements inside of this to focus out of the hydrogen gas and the carbon monoxide. This is a downhill pipe that's going to go anti the direction of natural thermodynamic processes that'll help condense out or precipitate out some of the oils at a much faster rate than it would be if that pipe was going the natural thermodynamic flow direction.The first catch is going to be the heaviest and thickness of the current Crude oil. It goes down that pipe from a reduction point here into the secondary catch.This comes up the hill here at the lighter gases not yet condensed, rises across loses a lot of energy and now is once again restricted into a quarter inch copper gas pipe into a 5 gallon water tank with a 20 loop condenser coil inside . The pipe out of that tank runs into a one gallon pickle jar. The next pipe comes out of the top of the jar, we're not actually trying to put it down too far because you don't want to bubble and once it starts to fill with crude oil, you just want to grab them the lightest of the gases, the hydrogens and the nitrogen, carbon monoxides and others that are still left within this system you want to grab, grab that right off the top. Now it comes up this pipe here goes through the T and once again we have a secondary condenser that this goes through now it's about four or five loops going through there, comes out through there. And that's where the liquids gonna condense from this condenser that's where it's going to be caught. The liquid will be flowing, dropping the jug and the lighter Smoke will continue on now down the pipe. The result of the bio crude oil project collecting 4 grades of oil.So the next step of this project now is to put this all through the refinery, which will actually be connected inside the woodstove that made all of this. So in the end, what we'll have is all the liquid being produced the crude oil once again, flow back to the woodstove go through the refinery out the refinery tower, and on the other side, we'll have a high grade fuel to use in any engine. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M1imlOX2pGI