How to build a Homemade Multi Use Water Purifier that uses no electricity .Works as Water heater and stove burner too….

    This project goes into the build of a simple and cheap two stage DIY water filter.Also doubles as a stove burner. The materials needed for this build are some bricks,bottles,copper coil,activated carbon,sand,gravel

    I got the sand and activated carbon water filtration part on the far left.
    In the middle, I’ve got it heated in a copper coil running on isopropyl alchohol. The purified water is coming out on the right side.

    The first step is to make the 1st stage filter. We take a 2L bottle cut in half, drilled a quarter inch hole on the bottom and drop in a couple of cotton balls and pack it in there.

    Next step is to add the activated carbon,sand and gravel.Rinse all of them before adding .

    Align the bricks and place the cans on top. Place a small tin with the isopropyl alcohol inside the middle can. A copper coil is inserted into the middle can and connect between the first can and the water bottle.

    Add the sand mixture filter bottle on top of the first can below the copper pipe.

    For the first can the one that holds the activated carbon filter,just
    remove the label and drill one small hole at the bottom.

    Then for the second cam that holds the copper coil, you cut down the top, take about a third of circumference off and cut about two thirds of the way down. Then put one small notch on the top and a hole down below for the coil.

    To make the copper coil just wrap it around from top to bottom in a smallcan, push the can out and leave about a foot on either side.

    Notice I added a couple of bricks and pointed the end of the copper tubing down directly into the can so we won’t lose hardly any water and make sure to drill those steam vents so the pressure doesn’t build up.

    Make sure to drill vents on the bottle so that the pressure doesn’t get build up.

    Pour the alcohol under the coil and fire it up. Just put a little in ,you don’t need too much. A full glass of water gets purified in three to three and a half minutes.

    This gravity fed two stage water filter should take care of pond water stream water swamp water, just about any water you can think of.

    Don’t try using this without the heavy sand gravel and activated carbon in there or the water will backflow and it may spray out.

    An easy way to store this filter when you’re not using it is just save the bottom half of the two liter bottle you cut in half and drop the filter in it ,holds it perfectly.

    This cheap 2 stage heated oil water purifier can also be used to both purify water and cook at the same time.

    • How to build a Simple Alternative Power Dual Refrigeration System that uses no electricity
      This project goes over the conversion of an old three way refrigerator unit from an RV into an alternative power offgrid Dual refrigeration system that uses no electric power. This can be really useful in case of a power outage or SHTF situation when you need to keep your food or vegetables fresh. The first step is to strip the fittings on the back side of the fridge , remove all the ammonia system ,clean the inside of it . Here we are incorporating more than one way to use this water for cooling refrigeration system to make it efficient .We will be using cooling effect by brining down the water temperature to cool the box , another way to cool the box is by installing an evaporative system. We take the two pipes coming from the water source around the edges of the box and put some cotton sheets around the sides and let the water cascade down the sheet creating an evaporative effect. We have an inverter and a battery attached to the fridge that is hooked up to a 25W solar panel .The wire from the inverter is connected to 8W Electric Fish tank pump .The water coming from the pump goes underneath and up inside to the lid of the fridge to the condenser coils and then comes back around back into the water source like well or water tank. The full system is recirculated back into the original storage tank where the water is coming from. We keep the fridge in a chest freezer style instead of an upright style. Inside the fridge, we have incorporated 2 poly tubing coils attached to an old heat sink that was already in the fridge. The 100ft coils are attached to the top of the fridge. The cold from that coils will drop down to the rest of the fridge. Next step is to incorporate the evaporative cooling part of the refrigeration system. We start by installing aluminum U channels across all the edges of the fridge. The U channel will hold cotton material inside of them. The water coming out of the outputs from our coils rushes into the channel which is going to wick out into the cloth and run down the cloth with gravity, giving us our evaporative cooling effect . On the corners, we have the U channels interconnected to each other through a bent garden hose in such a way that any extra water flow in the channel can transfer to the the channel that is next. The cotton sheets are stretched around the box and tuck it down into the channels all the way around under the wires such that the wires will hold the channels up and hold the sheet up inside the channel. To even the flow of the water ,we install a tee. Now the water coming from both sides of the channel can leak into the sheet. Also make sure you have an air gap between the sheet and the refrigerator box.
    • DIY Video : How to build a Survival Water Distillation System for under $5 and turn Salt Water Into Fresh Water
      This project goes into the build a simple survival water distillation system to turn your salt water into drinkable fresh water. This setup can be made with little more than two glass bottles, some metal trays and some sand. So the primary components of this setup are two glass bottles, the wider the bottles are in diameter ,the better and a pair of metal trays. The first part of this process will be to prepare an area such that the two bottles can rest mouth to mouth. The important part is that one of them needs to be suspended over a heat source. This could be done over an open campfire, you just need to find a way to suspend the bottle above the flame either using rocks or logs. Cut a small notch on one side of the pan so that the neck of the bottles can sit a little lower in the pan. This is by no means necessary, but it will make the setup a little more secure. With the trays secured in place, both of them are now filled with sand. The sand will allow the trays to more efficiently act as heat sinks, one tray to cool one of the bottles and the other tray will be used to very evenly heat the other bottle so that it doesn't shatter from being heated too much on one side. The bottle is pressed firmly into the sand so that it gets good thermal contact and will be heated evenly. The second bottle is adjusted such that its mouth will meet up with the first and it is also pressed into the sand to obtain good thermal contact. Another reason that I'm using sand for this is because it makes it very easy to adjust the bottles angles and it is best to make the bottles meet up as evenly as possible so that there is not much room for water vapor to escape. We want it all to make it into this second bottle where it can condense as freshwater. As an additional measure to keep the cold half of the bottle cold, we wet the sand on this bottle with water or cover them with a wet cloth to allow evaporative cooling to take place. With such a large quantity of sand in this tray it does take a little while for it to reach the boiling point and get this process started. But once the sand has reached that point, it stays hot for a long time. So it is a pretty quick process as the water boils dry in this first bottle to simply refill it and you can continue on with the distillation process as long as you want. Rotate the bottle so that the top portion becomes hot from the steam, it is rotated into the cold sand below. And in that way the entire bottle maintains a cold temperature which causes the distillation to go much faster.
    • How to Heat your Home or Garage for Free by building Solar Air Heating Collectors that uses no electricity or batteries
      Solar heat collectors are a good supplemental heating source that can provide homeowners with free heat for their home when the sun is shining. Solar collectors are a box like structure that capture the energy from the sun and convert it into usable energy for heating purposes. Inside the collector solar energy is simply converted into usable thermal energy. On the front side of the solar collectors . a clear panel or glazing material typically polycarbonate sheeting, single pane glass ,double pane glass face towards the sun and allow the sunlight into the collector box. On the inside of the collector box is a heat exchanger or a absorber. The heat exchanger or absorber is responsible for transferring the heat of the sun into a usable thermal heat source. The heat exchanger is suspended or attached inside the collector box and should be coated flat black with a high heat temperature resistant paint. The flat black paint helps to absorb the heat energy from the sun. It is very important to utilize a flat finish black paint inside the collector box. If the paint has a reflective coating, it will reflect the sun back outside of the collector, which results in lost potential energy. It assists with the entrapment of that heat energy rather than reflecting it away from the collector. Once the sunlight has penetrated the collector box through the glazing, the heat exchanger material and the flat black paint will absorb that heat and begin to warm the air inside the collector. As the air inside the collector and around the absorber warms, it will expand and rise. The expansion of warm air will naturally create a convection current. As the air inside the collector rises, it will continue to pick up heat through friction with the absorber. The air passing over and through the absorber is given more opportunity to gain heat by rubbing against that surface which is being heated by the sun. Now that the air is warm and picking up heat and needs a way to move through the collector box, we install two vents on the backside of the solar collector facing towards the room or space that we want to heat. Through the vent at the top of the collector, the heated air moves into the home , the vent at the bottom allows the cooler air to return back to the the collector. Having a return event at the bottom and a supplier event at the top of the solar collector allows natural convection process. The air inside the collector is picking up heat from the absorber and is naturally wanting to rise up and out of the collector. A natural force of air rising will induce a convection current, which will pull cooler return air from the room or condition space into the bottom of the collector box. The collector creates a convection current inside the room .It removes cooler dense air from the bottom of the room and takes it through the collector where it is warm, and then exhausts the heated air out of the supply duct back into the room. This project goes over the build of an entirely self contained Solar Air Heater using no grid power whatsoever. The unit draws the cold air from the room and exhausts hot air into the room using a 2 5V DC brushless 7 vane case fans. This fans are powered by a 16 Watt Amorphous solar panel. Both the intake and exhaust pipes ore of 5 inch diameter. 9 rows of 17 soda pop cans , a total of 153 355ml soda cans are used for the collector. The aluminum pop cans are painted with a flat black paint to ensure all sunlight is absorbed and not reflected. Also there is a five inch intake and exhaust manifold at the bottom and top of the unit. This ensures that all air travels through the interior of the aluminum cans. To maximize the heat transfer from the sun to air within a given space, we need to build a better heat exchanger. Solar air heating systems use air as the working fluid for absorbing and transferring solar energy. Transferring heat from one place to another by definition is a heat exchanger. When the sun heats the metal, the hot metal heats the air circulating over the metal of the heat exchanger. The job is to capture radiation from the sun and transfer this thermal energy to air via conduction heat transfer. Heat transfer output depends on the rise in temperature and the airflow. In order to minimize heat loss through the plexiglass , we keep the absorber temperature as low as usually possible. The cooler the absorber runs, the less heat will be lost out of the glass. A way to keep the absorber cooler while extracting the same amount of energy from the sun is to increase the airflow. To improve conduction heat transfer without significantly reducing airflow , we disturb the airflow within the solar air tubes . Four holes are put in some of the soda cans to create a baffle that increase the turbulence .These baffle cans are placed evenly across the tubes to distribute the airflow. We place the first baffle cans on the second row from the bottom with the intention of disturbing the airflow early. The second baffle will be located in the 10th can . In order to stack the empty cans, we make an assembly tray "V" shaped support structure using leftover baseboard. The cans are glued together using PL Premium construction adhesive that is water resistant, non shrinking and paintable. The soda cans are positioned on the loading tray and slowly rotated to evenly distribute the construction adhesive. The "V" channel made from baseboards holds the cans perfectly straight. The box for the Solar air heater is made of 5052 aluminum alloy sheets. 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The intake and the exhaust pipes for the two solar air heaters are manufactured from a single piece of five inch HVAC plenum. These are inserted and secured into the holes using construction adhesive. The back of the box is insulated using two sheets of half inch foam sheet. One sheet of half inch foam is installed on the sides. A pneumatic air file is used to cut the sheets. We install a snap action thermostat in the interior of the exhaust manifold, constantly monitoring the temperature of the air being brought into the dwelling. The intake and exhaust manifolds need to ensure that all air travel through the interior of the cans therefore it is important to have a good seal to each can. This also means that the manifold itself needs to seal well against the interior of the heat box. Nine holes are cut on a two sheets of half inch plywood to make the intake and the exhaust manifolds. These manifolds are secured in place against the cans using PL construction adhesives. The solar air tubes are held tight inside the box using two 1/16th half inch 6063 aluminum extrudes. These lightly applying pressure on the cans holding them firmly against the back of the heat chamber. Three separate coats of high heat black rest-o-leum paint are applied to the box , all within 60 minutes of each other. Clear silicon adhesive will be the primary method of adhering the Plexiglas to the solar air heater. After precisely positioning the glass on top of the heat chamber, I used a 1/8 inch pilot drill to go through the plexiglass. One full tube of silicone is used around the perimeter prior to laying the glass down. We install 2 16 Watt Sailflo Duct Exhaust fans with a capacity of moving 141 CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) for air . These are powered by a small solar panel. One blowing air into the chamber and one sucking air out. This helps to overcome the additional internal airflow resistance built into the design. The completed solar air collector is installed outside facing south to maximize the exposure to the sun. Once the solar air collector is installed outside , we take the temperature rise between the incoming and outgoing air while moving 141 cubic feet of air per minute from the fans . The calculate the amount of heat transfer we multiply the CFM and Temperature rise with a factor of 1.08.