How to build a Homemade Copper Pipe Solar Water Heater and get super hot water fast and free

This project goes over the build of an simple and efficient copper coil tiny alcohol burner jet stove. The materials you need to make this stove are canning jar, small copper tubing, JB weld to seal up the from inside and outside , pipe to wrap the coil, couple of drill bits, a wick material, sand and Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol as a the fuel. Fill the copper tubing with sand all the way up. Seal both ends of the tube with a cloth or a cap. With the help of a vice ,we bend the tubing around the pipe into a loop. Flatten the sides of the coil keeping the sides together. Empty the sand out of the copper coil and run water through it to get everything out. This is done so that the inside is completely open for the air and the gas to build up and burn in there. Cut a vent hole down the center of the looped coil using the smallest drill bit. Mark the canning glass jar against the copper coil so that we can cut off the extra coil legs so that the coil fits inside the jar approximately three quarters way down. Next step is to make holes for the lid of the jar . Place the coil on top of the lid and make two spots for the holes. We use a drill bit ,same size as the coil to drill two holes. The coil is placed through the two holes of the lid and sealed on both the top and bottom side using JB Weld. Allow the glue to set for an hour. Take your wick cloth material ,insert and twist them through both the holes of the coil all the way up to the top. Pour some Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol onto the jar , place the lid with the coil on the top and tightly close the jar with the cap. Wipe the sides of the coil with rubbing alcohol. To prime the stove for its first burn , start by heating the coil using a propane torch first. The heating of the coil gets the gas going. Heat until the flame starts to appear. Burn for four to five minutes to steady the flame. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HFrWw5dgliQ

A Beginner tutorial on how to make a wind turbine ceiling fan.So out of the box, we have the main part here, which has the motor in it.Keep up with all the blades if you can. You can use this for the furrow on the back the way it pushes around to keep the turbine from standing in a very aggressive wind it pushes it out of the way First part is just getting the motor outside of this casing. And you want to be careful because these wires are fragile, and you don't want to tear those loose by any means.So mainly, the tools that you'll need is just a screwdriver, maybe a flathead screwdriver and a hammer eventually. Take the top part of the ceiling fan off, this is the part that's next to the ceiling.Disconnect the wires don't cut them. There's a nut here with a washer that holds this plate.And we don't want this plate. So we need to take that off. However, we do want the washers here. Take this casing apart, and inside you'll see that copper coils that actually power the fan. The next step is finding the highest arm reading of these four wires that is coming out of this motor.Pull that higest ohm reading wires through the center pole to the other side. Insert a metal banding used for attaching the magnets around the stator. Put the magnets inside the fan housing to achieve a voltage reading.Add a cardboard spacer in there so that the magnets are aligned with the stator. The blades are made of 4 inch PVC.You can find templates online for the blades.Put the outline of the blades from the paper onto the PVC and then cut it out with a jigsaw. And then once you cut it out with a jigsaw, all you have to do is get a little Sander out, you can use a hand Sander to smooth the edges off. Connect the blades to the faceplate of the old ceiling fan. Next step is to take an inch galvanised pipe that forms the body of the turbine. A 40 inch piece will slide down into the conduit of the mounting system for your turbine.A 30 inch piece on the back,This is going to be angled up into the wind to keep the blades in the wind a little better. One Inch PVC is slid down the end of the 30 inch pipe and attach the tail piece on there which is made of fan blade The wires from the fan is passed through the pipe and just zip tie them down.Cut the PVC in half to a 45 degree elbow ,cut a line down through this PVC, we're gonna split it basically and drill some holes in it and attach the ceiling fan blade. Attach the fan to the galvanized pipe with the help of an extension that was previously saved during our dismantling of the ceiling fan.Use JB weld on the inside of that. And I put this bolt through this part and put a tightening screw on it, they're kind of digs into the metal. Connect the two leads from the fan to a bell wire, solder these two together, wrap it up with some electrical tape and kind of zip tie to the top so that it will stay in place.At the base end of the wire,connect it with a diode bridge rectifier which is further connected to our battery. Regarding connecting the rectifier,it doesnt matter how you solder them together,just as long as they are separate and not connecting and shorting out. But you want to put this at the base of the wire at the very end so that you can put this inside of your battery box and hook it up to your battery. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sr9ZMbF3Zqk&list=PL68TKRSLgXzQqZa5WzMNFwmYKS4b4KPcA

In this project, we're using equal parts of sand and plaster to make a simple backyard foundry that's powerful enough to melt scrap metal in seconds. With this homemade furnace, we have the power to liquefy aluminum in the backyard and cast just about any object we can think of. You will need some big bag of play sand and some plaster of paris both of which you can find at your local hardware store for under $20. We are also going to need a 10 quart steel bucket and a tablecloth to cover anything. For this makeshift refractory lining we need One and 1/3 buckets full of plaster Paris or 21 cups, One and 3/4 buckets full of sand or 21 cups and 1 and 1/4 buckets filled with water or 15 cups. Mix everything together. It's really important to get all the dry powder wet and work out any lumps as quickly as possible. And after mixing for a couple of minutes, it should be fairly runny and roughly all the same color. Transfer the mix to the steel bucket upto 3 inches from top. We use the plastic measuring bucket to form the center of the foundry. Let the mixture dry for 3 minutes. Next step ,we turn an old steel fire extinguisher into a custom crucible. Depressurize the tank and unscrewed the valve from the top to make it safe and easy to cut in half with a hacksaw. At this point the plaster should be pretty well set. So let's dump the water from the bucket then use a pair of channel locks to pull the bucket out. Next step is make an air supply port .Using 3/8 inch hole saw and a metal cutting blade, we cut a hole to accommodate the one inch steel blower tube. The blower tube is made of one inch steep pipe ,one inch PVC coupling and one inch PVC pipe.Threads on one half of the coupling screw onto the steel pipe and the slip adapter on the other end simply pushes onto the PVC side easily. Next step is to build a lid to retain the heat.You need a couple of 4 inch U bolts.Make them stand upright into a 5 quart bucket filled with the insulating mix. To relieve pressure buildup, make a vent hole using a 3 inch hole cutting saw. This design works great for venting pressure and gives us the option to melt metal as well without even having to take the lid off the furnace. By the way, if you run out of soda cans to melt, you could try using it as a blacksmithing forge or even a barbecue for summertime grilling. We evenly place 5 charcoal briquettes at the bottom of the crucible made out of steel fire extinguisher, helps smelt the can faster once we fire it up. A hair dryer is taped to a PVC pipe and inserted a couple of one inch couplings to connect the steel tub eat one end and give the blower to a quick release feature. This way it's super easy to take apart and fits into a five gallon bucket for easy storage. The charcoal is filled it to the top and we breathe life into the steel furnace with a propane torch.The hairdryer is set to the low setting and blow a steady stream of oxygen on the charcoal to really heat things up. The lid we made keeps the heat inside so it conserves energy while it's bringing up the temperature. The coolest part is that the crucible lines up perfectly with the hole in the center. The container is three inches wide, which is the perfect size for melting standard size soda cans like these and at temperatures over 1000 degrees Fahrenheit . In order to isolate aluminium, first we remove the crucible making sure we have got a very secure grip with our tongs and slowly pour the liquid into a steel mold. The Soda cans are molded in the form of ingots.The purpose of an ingot is to keep some pure metal handy for when you want to make something cool. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hHD10DjxM1g https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lSoWxG30rb0