In this project, we’re using equal parts of sand and plaster to make a simple backyard foundry that’s powerful enough to melt scrap metal in seconds.
With this homemade furnace, we have the power to liquefy aluminum in the backyard and cast just about any object we can think of.
You will need some big bag of play sand and some plaster of paris both of which you can find at your local hardware store for under $20.
We are also going to need a 10 quart steel bucket and a tablecloth to cover anything.
For this makeshift refractory lining we need One and 1/3 buckets full of plaster Paris or 21 cups, One and 3/4 buckets full of sand or 21 cups and 1 and 1/4 buckets filled with water or 15 cups.
Mix everything together. It’s really important to get all the dry powder wet and work out any lumps as quickly as possible. And after mixing for a couple of minutes, it should be fairly runny and roughly all the same color.
Transfer the mix to the steel bucket upto 3 inches from top.
We use the plastic measuring bucket to form the center of the foundry.
Let the mixture dry for 3 minutes.
Next step ,we turn an old steel fire extinguisher into a custom crucible. Depressurize the tank and unscrewed the valve from the top to make it safe and easy to cut in half with a hacksaw.
At this point the plaster should be pretty well set. So let’s dump the water from the bucket then use a pair of channel locks to pull the bucket out.
Next step is make an air supply port .Using 3/8 inch hole saw and a metal cutting blade, we cut a hole to accommodate the one inch steel blower tube.
The blower tube is made of one inch steep pipe ,one inch PVC coupling and one inch PVC pipe.Threads on one half of the coupling screw onto the steel pipe and the slip adapter on the other end simply pushes onto the PVC side easily.
Next step is to build a lid to retain the heat.You need a couple of 4 inch U bolts.Make them stand upright into a 5 quart bucket filled with the insulating mix.
To relieve pressure buildup, make a vent hole using a 3 inch hole cutting saw.
This design works great for venting pressure and gives us the option to melt metal as well without even having to take the lid off the furnace.
By the way, if you run out of soda cans to melt, you could try using it as a blacksmithing forge or even a barbecue for summertime grilling.
We evenly place 5 charcoal briquettes at the bottom of the crucible made out of steel fire extinguisher, helps smelt the can faster once we fire it up.
A hair dryer is taped to a PVC pipe and inserted a couple of one inch couplings to connect the steel tub eat one end and give the blower to a quick release feature. This way it’s super easy to take apart and fits into a five gallon bucket for easy storage.
The charcoal is filled it to the top and we breathe life into the steel furnace with a propane torch.The hairdryer is set to the low setting and blow a steady stream of oxygen on the charcoal to really heat things up.
The lid we made keeps the heat inside so it conserves energy while it’s bringing up the temperature. The coolest part is that the crucible lines up perfectly with the hole in the center.
The container is three inches wide, which is the perfect size for melting standard size soda cans like these and at temperatures over 1000 degrees Fahrenheit .
In order to isolate aluminium, first we remove the crucible making sure we have got a very secure grip with our tongs and slowly pour the liquid into a steel mold.
The Soda cans are molded in the form of ingots.The purpose of an ingot is to keep some pure metal handy for when you want to make something cool.
- DIY Video :How to build a Wood Stove that runs a generator, produces gasoline,runs a fridge and act as a water heater at the same timeThis is a wood powered gasifier stove that produces gasoline runs your generator, runs your propane hot water heater, heats hot water for you all off the grid. A simple design of a mini gasifying woodstove prototype here you've got some open latches, open up the door, the doors got the baton handle so it naturally stops on the downfall Inside the firebox, I've got a gasification style system built in there.One of the key things about a gasifying woodstove is that not only can I run it in a typical gasification wood stove manner, heat my home. But if I reverse that action with a fan and a draw system underneath the stove, with the ability to shut off the flow out the chimney pipe, and then draw down underneath the stove, reverse the action of the system, I can produce syn gas that can go outside and into a generator. This system has little latch up here at the top drops open so you can get in there work the material around.By actually pulling the little latch out and the bottom of the main gasifier inside of there to shut it and rotate it locks into place .It is actually a dump plate on the bottom of the main gasification chamber so that all the ash and all the coal that's not burned can dump out of the system into a tray below. A secondary burn system with two layers of stove pipe, one smaller inner diameter stove pipe and one larger one is made for a better burn to take place with fresh air inlets right there in the chamber. The outer sleeve stops below the bottom allows air to travel up in between rise up to the pipe.There is a set of burner holes that makes sure to mix fresh oxygen that creates a swirl in there and helps burn any leftover syn gas in the production system. So there's no smoke coming out of this in the end. Inside the woodstove is the inner chamber holds all your material, it gets hot and then creates an airdrop between this outer wall and the inner chamber wall that airdrop comes out these holes mixes fresh oxygen into the top of the system with the smoke and burns it. The bottom holes allow air to dry in from the bottom to complete that burn as the material burns down to the bottom. It also works slightly as a venturi system as air is drawn up these walls towards these holes, creates a vacuum down here at the bottom holes and pull some of the smoke out a downward draw into the system and pull some of it into here helping mix some of the smoke With the air and will swirl it so it'll burn cleanly. The single air inlet hole is used to pull the smoke out of the bottom to reverse this process to put syn gas out of this stove outside into a generator. There is inner set of holes in the bottom of the stove pipe.This helps mix air between the walls.The air gets drawn up between the wall since the inner pipe is longer than the outer pipe which mixes fresh air and completes the secondary burn to make sure there's no smoke coming out of this pipe. This is gonna be the bio crude oil production system here which is basically another term for a creosote that you produce from syn gas production, otherwise known as gasification production. It's got just a single pipe rolling out of the backside of it which is connected to a creosote collection container. As this gas starts to cool, it's going to come up to here it's going to work its way up hill, as it does so the hydrogen inside of the gas will be the lightest of all the gas is traveling uphill and definitely make it over the top much of the creosote we built re drip down into the second collection container here. Now the rest of its gonna go up cross through the pipe here and come down to a condenser The reactor shown here is made of two of five gallon steel cans.I cut the top off of one and the bottom off of another and slid them over each other. So they make a really long slide seal over each other one pipe, as you can tell here, welded in. With an elbow, it's a one inch pipe coming out of the back of they're welded in with an elbow. The downward slope of the pipe force the smoke to release as much of this crude as it possibly can. Because it's actually wanting to go uphill, which would be easy to smoke not going to cool real quickly. by forcing it slightly downhill, we're forcing a lot of that heat energy out, making sure it's releasing a lot of that, let's call it creosote or bio crude. It also allows for the creosote to roll down the bottom of the pipe into a container. The gas moves through a reduction point which reduces the pressure.The gas gets refined and reduced slightly in volume through the system. Hydrogen, carbon monoxide and all the rest of the lighter gases are going to easily flow up this pipe through thermodynamic pressure. Now you've cooled a lot of that gas by running it downhill, trying to bring in into this lower container as much the second grade creosote as you can, or biocrude. Now by running it up hill again, you can really force all the heavy hydrocarbons and other elements inside of this to focus out of the hydrogen gas and the carbon monoxide. This is a downhill pipe that's going to go anti the direction of natural thermodynamic processes that'll help condense out or precipitate out some of the oils at a much faster rate than it would be if that pipe was going the natural thermodynamic flow direction.The first catch is going to be the heaviest and thickness of the current Crude oil. It goes down that pipe from a reduction point here into the secondary catch.This comes up the hill here at the lighter gases not yet condensed, rises across loses a lot of energy and now is once again restricted into a quarter inch copper gas pipe into a 5 gallon water tank with a 20 loop condenser coil inside . The pipe out of that tank runs into a one gallon pickle jar. The next pipe comes out of the top of the jar, we're not actually trying to put it down too far because you don't want to bubble and once it starts to fill with crude oil, you just want to grab them the lightest of the gases, the hydrogens and the nitrogen, carbon monoxides and others that are still left within this system you want to grab, grab that right off the top. Now it comes up this pipe here goes through the T and once again we have a secondary condenser that this goes through now it's about four or five loops going through there, comes out through there. And that's where the liquids gonna condense from this condenser that's where it's going to be caught. The liquid will be flowing, dropping the jug and the lighter Smoke will continue on now down the pipe. The result of the bio crude oil project collecting 4 grades of oil.So the next step of this project now is to put this all through the refinery, which will actually be connected inside the woodstove that made all of this. So in the end, what we'll have is all the liquid being produced the crude oil once again, flow back to the woodstove go through the refinery out the refinery tower, and on the other side, we'll have a high grade fuel to use in any engine. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M1imlOX2pGI
- DIY Video : How to turn Dirty-water/Salt-water to a clean fresh drinking water by building a simple Water distillation system
- How to build an Emergency Waste Oil or Used Vegetable Oil Candle from Old Nail Polish BottleThis project goes into the build of a simple and inexpensive waste oil/ used vegetable oil candle from an old nail polish bottle. You can burn motor oil ,vegetable oil, olive oil or you can also use lamp oil in these types of candles. The first thing your need for this oil candle is a reservoir to hold the oil in. Here we use a finger nail polish bottle. Next , a length of 100% cotton yarn is needed that is slightly longer than the length of the bottle. Another requirement is a one inch square piece of aluminum foil. The first thing you need to do to start this process is to take the bottle , clean it completely and fill it with your source of fuel like veg oil, waste motor oil, corn oil, olive oil . When you are pouring the oil, you don't want to go all the way up to the top of the bottle. Leave small amount of space at the top of the bottle. Take the aluminum foil and fold it length wise in half .Puncture a small hole in the middle of the foil . Through this hole, the cotton wick is pushed through. Lower the wick into the bottle and fold the aluminum foil around the neck of the bottle. This acts as a lid . Make sure that everything is folded down nice and tight around the bottle. Check the candle and see if this wick is wet. And if it is not , turn it upside down for a minute . The oil will then come into this wick and saturate it. Be careful that your aluminum foil doesn't fall off. If your cotton wick is a little bit longer, pull it up a little bit . This exposes the wet part of the wick. Take your scissors and cut the wick down just a little. Light the candle . When you first go to light them it takes a minute because you have to get everything warmed up. Let it burn a little bit. Make sure to not use a thick layer of aluminum foil for the lid. The aluminum foil will heat up and cause problems. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LbHFrvL99eA