How to Heat your Home for Free by building Solar Air Heating Collectors that uses no electricity or batteries

This project goes over the build of Double Barrel Stove out of two old scrap water heaters for the shop. The first step is to disassemble both the old electric hot water heaters to get their tanks out. Take a grinder and cut a section off from the top of the water heater tank. This tank will become the bottom tank. Remove any calcium and mineral that ends up developing deposits inside the bottom of the tank. Take a 12 gauge plate steel and put our top drum upside down and scribe a circle out of them from the end and cut it. Weld the steel piece onto the drum. You need to do the same for the other drum too because with these double barrels, you are basically making two stoves, just connecting them in the middle. Now both the top tank and bottom tank ends have been polished and cleaned .Remove any insulations, paints and glues from them if they have any. Make sure all the rough pieces on the tank are welded on ground down. Cut a small piece of pipe that acts as stack between the 2 tank. Next step is to add a small support bracket on the top of the bottom tank that will help support the top tank. Cut a hole on the bottom tank .This will be where the stack goes between two of them. Fill the drain plug down at the bottom . Take the top tank, cut and weld the top exhaust stack that will be six inch outlet for the smoke. We also add a six inch inlet that goes up to the top that forces your your smoke and the gas has to go across the length of the barrel. The bottom barrel will be connected to this. Both barrels are welded together, the bottom barrel is welded onto the mid stack which connects the top barrel with the exhaust stack. In order to support the barrels, we take the scrap pipes lying around and make legs as a support structure for the stove. Next is the door fabrication. We cut a hole for the door in the bottom barrel. A couple of hinges, door catch are welded on to this end. An air inlet pipe is threaded onto a plate. The whole unit is then attached to the door. A handle is attached to the inlet pipe so you can open and close whenever you want to control the flow of the air intake. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fTj4pjJ4DT0

This video shows the build of a DIY solar powered, pressurized, roof top water heater and shower.This is done using an ABS 4 inch pipe, 6 feet long, which would give me a capacity of 15 Litres or 4 US gallons.This is an easy and inexpensive project that required minimal tools and just some basic plumbing parts.I started by installing the shutoff valve. I wanted the drain to be as low as possible in the pipe to avoid necessity of having to tilt the system. To ensure the valve retaining nut did not interfere with the pipe once it is glued into the, I positioned the nut away from the wall of the cap using a bolt, which is the same thickness as the wall of the pipe.I drilled out a 2” threaded cap and tapped in a radiator valve drain plug that I picked up at the local automotive parts store. This valve will allow me to release pressure from the tank should that be necessary without opening the drain shutoff. Also when open, this will allow a gravity fed system through the drain valve should for some reason I not have access to the air compressor.As a final step to improve thermal absorption of solar energy, I painted the surface with flat black paint. First I lightly buffed all the ABS surfaces with steel wool soaked Methol Hydrate. Then applied one coat of spray primer followed by two coats of flat black paint.

Watch the DIY Homemade Inexpensive Roof top Solar ABS Pipe Hot Water System Build Video

This project goes over the build of a simple Bandsaw from old car wheels .Car wheels are big and heavy, but in many ways, they are ideal for bandsaws. They are available everywhere cheaply. They have a rubber tire for the blade to sit on, and they have excellent bearings. Take apart the brakes, the backplate , bearings and the stub axle out of the housing. Weld the stub axle onto an off cut of scaffolding. So we now have two wheels, spinning on the ends of two straight lengths of steel. We take some scrap angle iron pieces and make a rectangular frame for the mill. This form as the base of our mill. In order to make the sliding mechanism, we take a scrap pipe and try to fit it onto a square iron pipe so it can slide in and out smoothly. This will be used for all adjustments. This is welded onto the frame. A Steel plate is welded onto the sliding bars. This is for the engine to sit on. The engine will drive one of the car wheels We mount the 11 HP Petrol Engine to steel plate and the tire is connected directly to the engine shaft through a drive belt. The drive wheel is bolted on to the frame ,also added a lever for the engine mount which will act as a sort of clutch, tightening and slackening the belt when necessary. We add two more pipes on the bottom of the frame and slid them to the support platform of the second wheel made from the same square box iron and some short sections which is part of the blade guide. The second wheel has to be adjustable in a few different directions and has to be lined up with the first wheel so the blade stays on them both without running off the tires. To adjust the tension on the blade by moving the wheel away from the first one, we use a bottle screw. The blade guides are made from cheap bearings. They needs to be adjustable so that the saw can cope with logs of different sizes. The blade guides help keep the blade straight as it goes through the log and also stops the plate being pushed off wheels The band saw has to go up and down so that it can cut planks from a log. We make a simple frame to hold it. It has to fit inside vertical pieces of angle iron on the saw. The support frame is bolted onto to the saw by using a bracket which grip the uprights. Couple of barn door pulleys are bolted onto the top of the support frame and the mill frame. A trailer winch is bolted on to the middle of the support frame. Using a 3mm wire and winch-pulley system, we can move the wheel frame up and down. Two short pipes are added at the front and these hold up a guard which can be taken off when we need to get at the belt or the blade. If the blade snaps, the side guards should make sure that it heads down towards the ground and not up to the ceiling. The saw is stationary and the log is moved through it using dolly trailers or rails. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL3_dJayH6e6ibBd5sA6WgXO99zf2zBsUe