This project goes over the build an efficient clean burn multi use ammo can portable rocket stove . Easy to build , small ,portable , leaves no smoke. The reason it is smokeless is because it uses a secondary burn system . Also can be used as a cooking stove.
The first thing you need is an old NATO ammo can. Remove the rubber seal that sits around the top of the can and replace it with a stove rope. The stove rope gets compressed when you close the stove with its closing mechanism and the smoke wont escape from around there.
One the top, we have the flue made out of 2 inch stainless pipe .It has two sections, upper section slides onto the lower section. In order to build the flue, we take the top of the ammo can, then place the pipe on top and draw around it that gives the circumference. Take a grinder and simply cut across the shape.
In order to get a smoke tight seal, we wrap some stove rope around the flue area we just cut and then insert the pipe and use a jubilee clip around the bottom and compress it against the stove rope.
Once this gets up to working temperature, it draws cold air in from down below and expels it out at the top. So all the smoke from the stove gets drawn upwards.
We use 2 turnbuckles as a stove door closing mechanism. There are two closing mechanisms on this door. One is a quarter turn latch. So you rotate it, the door opens ,you close and then you rotate it and it locks the door closed. Another mechanism is using a long piece of metal. You can turn each of these a quarter turn and that locks the door extremely tight to fit these turnbuckles .
The stove baffle plate is made out of 0.8mm thick thin steel. To make it, measure it up against the stove and bent the steel into that shape. The baffle helps in generating more heat as it keeps the air from escaping the burn chamber.
A secondary pipe made of galvanized steel pipe comes from back of the stove and comes across the stove through a small hole. The pipe has been drilled with small holes. When the stove is in operation, this draws in cold air from outside, it gets pre-heated on the way down across the burn chamber. And then the pre-heated air rises and is expelled naturally through these holes.
And since this pipe is just under the baffle plate, it reignites the smoke and the smoke is burnt on the way across the upper section of the stove.
The stove is insulated using fibreglass and stainless steel from three sides inside, helps in efficient secondary burn. You just need enough insulation to get the temperature high enough to get secondary burn. If the whole stove is insulated then the heat would dissipate through the flue instead.
The bottom of the stove is insulated using half inch rockwool and on top we have some chicken wire that stops the burning fuel from sitting on the bottom of the stove and being starved of oxygen. It allows the oxygen to get underneath and burn all the way around the wood efficiently.
The primary air is drawn in through an air intake at the side of the stove. To attach it to the stove, bend the pipe around the side and place a jubilee clip and stove rope around to insulate it. So when the stove is in operation, you can add sticks, twigs, pellets or anything you want without opening the door.
Burn Video :
- DIY Video: How to build a Simple Emergency Survival Waste Oil Candle from Old Nail Polish Bottle
- How to build a simple Homemade PVC Off grid River Pump to pump water from a river or creekThis project goes over the build of a river pump that can be used to pump water from a nearby river or creek anywhere you want without any external power.It works off of a circular tube, gulping air and water as it rotates. It works by harnessing the flow of the river and creating air pressure to push the water further.It pushes water out from the river and up through your hose system, which you can direct where needed. To use a river pump, all you need is a nearby river or creek that has flowing water and a location that is deep enough to support your river pump. Here are the parts needed for this water pump: A 3 inch to 4inch reducer A 4 inch to 6 inch reducer 40 foot ,3/8 inch tubing 3 inch socket to thread /cap Garden hose adapter Quick release couplings Six,four,two inch pipes Take your angle grinder and cut them to four pieces.Connect the pieces together using a PVC cement solvent and make it into a cone that steps down as it goes. A window screen is used as a shield on the back.So this design is supposed to be rather streamlined in order to keep debris and stuff from getting caught as the pump works The cap at the end of the cone is attached to the swivel piece. It needs to be able to swivel freely on top of this. The hose tightens into this metal swivel piece and gets locked down. Next is building fan blades for the front of this pump to spin it.Cut the PVC into 4 equal blades that is 8 inches tall. Bolt the swivel piece along with the blade we have just cut. Water comes flowing in and hits the blades that is attached to the rotating swivel, makes it move and rotate and then hits the next one in line. The end piece is attached to the the PVC cone that we made earlier.Next step is getting our 40 foot hose tubing to get inside the pipe and attach to the swivel end. Next step is wrapping the 40 foot hose around the pump .We need to wrap the hose in such a way once the water hits the swivel end,the hose has got to pick up water. The Garden Hose is connected to the swivel end of the pump.Place the system along the direction the flow of the river or creek.
- DIY Video : How to heat your garage the Inexpensive way by building an Outdoor Stove with Heat ExchangerThis project goes over the build of an inexpensive garage heater using DIY outdoor barrel stove with a heat exchanger. This outdoor setup is safe because you dont want the stove inside the garage to catch fire if you are working with any flammable gas. We use a 30 gallon drum for the stove. The access doors and legs are purchased from the local store. The heater exchanger is made out of four inch steel pipe .We take couple of 4 foot pipe and weld them together using another small pipe. This pipe goes inside the firebox and connects to the chimney pipes. The pipe should be thick enough that it can withstand the heat of the fire without sagging or bending. This pipe heat exchanger adds positive pressure . Removable hatches are made on one side of the stoves to connect the 2 four inch aluminum flex chimney pipes from the outside barrel to the garage. Inside the garage we place a 4 inch exhaust fan blower that sucks the colder air from the floor and blows it through one of the flex chimney pipe into the stove. The blower is actually a hydroponics duct exhaust fan purchased from Ebay. The cold air gets pushed into the stove and moves through the heat exchanger steel pipe , gets heated and then moves out through the second chimney flex pipe and back into the garage. The hot air from the stove moves into the garage through the second pipe. In order to get more hot air, we also add a drip fed waste oil system to the outdoor stove . The oil gets dripped slowly from a tank into a frying pan on top of the stove .You can add cotton rags and let it drip into there and it just keeps burning like a wick. The combination of both wood and waste oil produce better fire . If the stove gets too hot, you can turn of the oil or use oil only to maintaining the temperature. You can put an insulated shack around the stove to minimize the heat loss. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fn4CerxpNug