ammobox

This project goes into the build of an offgrid portable water pump and filtration system that can turn any water from your creek,lake,river into safe and clean drinking water . This 12V portable system can be powered by solar or from your car directly and is ideal for camping , RV or outdoor survival enthusiasts. This system enables them to pump water from a fresh water source, filter and then store or use in case of emergency survival situation.

The materials you need to build this portable filtration system are as follows. A tactix storage box to lodge the water pump,inlet and outlet hoses, an inline water filter or twin carbon 0.5micron filter, pex pipe, garden hose pipes, 12mill barb strainer,rocker switch ,12V Shurflo water pump with the flow rate of 11 litres per minute, 50 amp Anderson plug and 10m heavy duty wire ,basic tools such as wire cutters, long nose pliers, solder.

The first step is completing the wiring for the water pump inside the tactix tool box. The rocker switch , the Anderson plug and a 7.5 Amp inline fuse are wired. The 12V rocker toggle switch is mounted at the center of the box lid.

The power input plug or the Anderson plug is mounted to the left of the switch. This input plug connects to the car battery or a solar battery. The positive red wires from the switch is connected to the Anderson plug through an inline fuse .The negative black wire from the plug goes straight to the switch. The remaining wires from the switch is then connected to the water pump which will be installed later. The wires are covered with corrugated split tubing to ensure that it is protected and safe.

The filter strainer is installed on the inlet side of the pump using an elbow, thread tapes. The strainer will filter out any unwanted debris before it goes to the pump.

Couple of holes are drilled into to the side of the box where the inlet and the outlet hoses will connect the water pump. The male fitting are attached to the holes before the pump is installed.

The pump is placed inside the box and mounted securely in such a way that the elbows are facing towards the two holes for the exterior hoses that was just made at the side of the box. Once the pump is mounted ,we connect the red and black wires coming from the switch to the positive and negative connections of the pump. The wires are once again covered with corrugated split tubing for safety.

To connect the pump with the hose outlets , we measure the distance between the outlets and the pump and connect two pex pipes . Heat was applied to the pipe for bending and moulding them to connect the outlets.

The 10 metre 50 Amp Anderson plug extension heavy duty cable wire is connected to the power source .Here the power draw is from a car battery. The other end is connected the input anderson plug on the top side of the box.

The inlet hose with the strainer attached is placed sitting midway
into the water source .The other end of the hose is connected to the intake pipe coming from the pump inside the box. The

The other hose is connected to the outlet pipe coming from the water pump inside the box. At the end of the hose , we connect an inline water filter or a twin carbon filter . The carbon filter ensures that there is no sediments or debris inside the water and also helps to eliminate bacteria and other contaminants.



RECENT POSTS YOU MIGHT LIKE
  • How to build a Homemade Multi Use Water Purifier that uses no electricity .Works as Water heater and stove burner too….
    This project goes into the build of a simple and cheap two stage DIY water filter.Also doubles as a stove burner. The materials needed for this build are some bricks,bottles,copper coil,activated carbon,sand,gravel I got the sand and activated carbon water filtration part on the far left. In the middle, I've got it heated in a copper coil running on isopropyl alchohol. The purified water is coming out on the right side. The first step is to make the 1st stage filter. We take a 2L bottle cut in half, drilled a quarter inch hole on the bottom and drop in a couple of cotton balls and pack it in there. Next step is to add the activated carbon,sand and gravel.Rinse all of them before adding . Align the bricks and place the cans on top. Place a small tin with the isopropyl alcohol inside the middle can. A copper coil is inserted into the middle can and connect between the first can and the water bottle. Add the sand mixture filter bottle on top of the first can below the copper pipe. For the first can the one that holds the activated carbon filter,just remove the label and drill one small hole at the bottom. Then for the second cam that holds the copper coil, you cut down the top, take about a third of circumference off and cut about two thirds of the way down. Then put one small notch on the top and a hole down below for the coil. To make the copper coil just wrap it around from top to bottom in a smallcan, push the can out and leave about a foot on either side. Notice I added a couple of bricks and pointed the end of the copper tubing down directly into the can so we won't lose hardly any water and make sure to drill those steam vents so the pressure doesn't build up. Make sure to drill vents on the bottle so that the pressure doesn't get build up. Pour the alcohol under the coil and fire it up. Just put a little in ,you don't need too much. A full glass of water gets purified in three to three and a half minutes. This gravity fed two stage water filter should take care of pond water stream water swamp water, just about any water you can think of. Don't try using this without the heavy sand gravel and activated carbon in there or the water will backflow and it may spray out. An easy way to store this filter when you're not using it is just save the bottom half of the two liter bottle you cut in half and drop the filter in it ,holds it perfectly. This cheap 2 stage heated oil water purifier can also be used to both purify water and cook at the same time.
  • How to build an Emergency Waste Oil or Used Vegetable Oil Candle from Old Nail Polish Bottle
    This project goes into the build of a simple and inexpensive waste oil/ used vegetable oil candle from an old nail polish bottle. You can burn motor oil ,vegetable oil, olive oil or you can also use lamp oil in these types of candles. The first thing your need for this oil candle is a reservoir to hold the oil in. Here we use a finger nail polish bottle. Next , a length of 100% cotton yarn is needed that is slightly longer than the length of the bottle. Another requirement is a one inch square piece of aluminum foil. The first thing you need to do to start this process is to take the bottle , clean it completely and fill it with your source of fuel like veg oil, waste motor oil, corn oil, olive oil . When you are pouring the oil, you don't want to go all the way up to the top of the bottle. Leave small amount of space at the top of the bottle. Take the aluminum foil and fold it length wise in half .Puncture a small hole in the middle of the foil . Through this hole, the cotton wick is pushed through. Lower the wick into the bottle and fold the aluminum foil around the neck of the bottle. This acts as a lid . Make sure that everything is folded down nice and tight around the bottle. Check the candle and see if this wick is wet. And if it is not , turn it upside down for a minute . The oil will then come into this wick and saturate it. Be careful that your aluminum foil doesn't fall off. If your cotton wick is a little bit longer, pull it up a little bit . This exposes the wet part of the wick. Take your scissors and cut the wick down just a little. Light the candle . When you first go to light them it takes a minute because you have to get everything warmed up. Let it burn a little bit. Make sure to not use a thick layer of aluminum foil for the lid. The aluminum foil will heat up and cause problems. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LbHFrvL99eA
  • How to build an Offgrid Wood Gasifier that can produce alternative free fuel
    This project goes over the build of a cross flow wood gasifier that powers a generator or a car or any kind of internal combustion engine using nothing more than wood scraps, paper, coal or any other organic materials. This unit was built in nothing more than an angle grinder, and a hand drill and parts that you can find lying around. These devices are taking advantage of a process called gasification, in which you can take any kind of organic biomass, really anything natural that burns and by heating it up, you are able to break it down through a process called pyrolysis to its basic elements. This creates a gas called syngas or wood gas. Here we are burning biomass in an oxygen deprived environment. And that heat which is sustained through just enough oxygen to not spread to ignite the gases produced by the heat interacting with the surrounding material is the process that we are using to create wood gas. The gases coming out contains things like water vapor from moisture content in the wood, also creates tar and creosote .So we need to filter out the gas. And the main concern of getting that gas to be clean enough to run an engine is by cooling it down. We connect the unfiltered gas coming from the pressure pot into a radiator to cool it down and then further connected to a bucket filled with saw dust to filter . The reactor unit is made of an old 5 gallon painting pressure pot . The first step is to burn it out removing old residue and paint. Also burn out the inside container as well. Make sure everything on the lid of the pressure pot is removed and sealed off with a plug or bolt. Remove the rubber gasket on the backside of the lid. The holes on surface of the lid are covered with three eighth inch bolts. At the bottom of the pot , we attach two pipes for the the air intake and the syn gas suction output. These pipes are held tightly to the pot with the help of one and quarter inch pipe flanges. The air comes up from the bottom, the gasification happens in the middle of this reactor and the ash gets sifted to the bottom through a passive shaker grate. The output pipe is capped at the top to prevent the residue ash going out and small holes are drilled along the pipe to allow the wood gas to pass through. Next step is to build the grate insert where the fuel will actually sit on and burn on. The grate will sit about two and a half inches off the bottom of the pot. The grate is made from the other stainless steel container that came with the pressure spray painting pot. Grid of holes are drilled along the surface of the grate using a quarter inch drill bit. The grate is finally is inserted into the reactor pot chamber . The gasket on the back of the lid of the pot is removed and replaced with fiberglass rope that can withstand temperature up to 2000 degree Fahrenheit. The rope is secured in place using a gasketing cement and stove sealer. The lid is clamped in place until the gasket cement is dry. The next step is to build the cooling and the filtering system. To get all the tar and steam to condense back into their liquid form , we use a old oil heater radiator that act as a condensate catcher . The gas coming out of the reactor is connected to the radiator which gets most of the heat out of them. We build the filtration system using a 5 gallon metal bucket to get the gas as clean as possible. The output pipe is attached to the bottom of the bucket using a flange. The bucket is filled with a filter medium such as wood shavings or sawdust that will trap any sort of particulates and get more tar out of the gas. An old car blower from a toyota is attached to the top of this bucket to get that gas up to the point where it can burn. The blower motor is supported with a old 10 tin can that is then secured at the center of top of the bucket .Another soup can is soldered to the 10 can on the side to attach the output hose pipe. We don't want there to be enough oxygen to actually just burn all the material in there before we can extract the gases . So we are limiting this by using a one way gate valve . The one way valve is important to prevent flashbacks if too much oxygen is there inside the reactor . We load the reactor with wood sticks and put some starter down in there, which is just some cloth, some paper and a sprinkle some wood pellets on top just to give us something small to start off with. We pack the reactor leaving a spot in the center . The fans is turned on and we start the ignition process. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bvl5XxVVjDM

This project goes over the build of an DIY Atmospheric Water Generator that distills water from air. This unit is made of aluminum and copper components so it is water safe and is drinkable. The water essentially is just pure distilled water just as clean as if it is distilled from a stovetop distiller. This setup works well in hot humid weather. Also acts a dehumidifier.

The materials you need to build this project are quarter inch copper tubing, soup can, half inch PVC pipe, 12V DC aquarium pump, aluminum foil, clear vinyl tubing, aluminum tray for collecting the distilled water ,small styrofoam cooler box. Cold Water is pumped through two sets of coiled copper tubes. The coil becomes freezing cold and starts to condensate . Dew gets collected on the coil and is captured by a drip pan which is placed under the coil.

The copper tubes are wrapped around a soup can to get the coiled shape. The clear PVC hose tube is clamped onto the coil and then connected to a small 12V DC aquarium water pump which is powered by a battery or solar panel.

We take two half inch PVC pipes , connect them together with two elbows . Wrap the PVC pipes with some aluminum foil and place the pipes above an aluminum or glass tray.

The water pump is then submerged in a chest box or bucket containing ice cold water. The pump is started and water coming out of the box cooler is sent through the copper coil where it will start the condensation process. Here the water is chilled to below its dew point. If the water is warm, it wont cool the copper coil enough for the condensation to occur.

The colder the water and the more humid it is out , the faster the process of collecting distilled water. To improve the efficiency , you could squeeze the copper coils together . The more the coils, the more the water you can extract from air .



RECENT POSTS YOU MIGHT LIKE
  • DIY Video : How to get Gold from Scrap Computer parts that you can find at the junkyard
    This project goes over how you can easily refine and smelt Gold from Old Scrap Computer Memory Chips . The materials you need for this project are some Muriatic acid,Hydrogen peroxide,Urea,Sodium Metabisulfite,Nitric acid. Cut the little gold fingers from the chips using a heavy duty scissors.Get right to the edge of the gold and cut that off. Okay, now that we've got all the fingers cut off of our memory chips, we put them in a plastic container.And in equal parts, we're going to add our hydrogen peroxide and our muriatic acid. Let it sit for 24 hours.If you can put it out in the sunlight during the days or the day time and then bring it back in at night,that's ideal. Drain the mix through a coffee filter and into another plastic container. And then we will rinse distilled water in these fingers and go through each one of the fingers and make sure there isn't any gold left on them. Filter the Gold granule filled water using a coffee filter,add sprinkles of distilled water.This helps to move those tiny granules around. Add some nitric acid and muriatic acid to the gold mix and put it on a hot plate or a coffeemaker and turn it low.Let that gold dissolve into the mixture. Strain the mixture through a coffee filter and rinse them though distilled water and put it on a burner. Now we are going to add Urea. Basically what the urea is going to do is neutralize the acid, we're going to start with one tablespoon of this, and then keep adding it stops bubbling that's all the acid neutralizing right there. Now we're going to add our sodium metal by sulfate, we're going to add two teaspoons of that. And that's going to turn all that liquid gold into metal. Let the mixture sit overnight and let it settle down.Everything on the bottom is going to be our gold, and it's going to be ready to smelt. Heat them till its melted and upon weighing its around 1.91 grams. Next step is testing the gold we have produced and see how pure it is. We use different acids based on the karat.If there is no reaction from the acid test,ifit's not changing colors, and it's not dissolving ,then we have a pure 22 or 24 karat gold here. If you follow this process, you will be able to convert all of your old and outdated computer chips into pure gold that you can turn around and sell for money. It’s a great way to salvage your old electronics and get some value out of them. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8lXd85YfcvY https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5c9Z5UYsUV4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkmhEGBjyMs
  • How to build a Powerful DIY Off-Grid Emergency Backup Generator .Fully Portable!!
    This project goes into the build of a portable and powerful off grid emergency solar generator with higher capacity than commercial units at a fraction of the cost. This system can keep a small fridge operating 24/7, charge your devices, power TV ,LED lights, Laptops. it is small enough to be stored away in your garage and portable enough to move where it was needed. The main components used to build this generator are as follows. 4 Renogy 100 Watt 12 Volt Monocrystalline Solar Panel Renogy Rover 40 Amp MPPT Solar Charge Controller Renogy Deep Cycle AGM Battery 12 Volt 100Ah Sug 2000W(Peak 4000W) Power Inverter Pure Sine Wave DC 12V to AC Renogy 20 Feet 10AWG Solar Extension Cable with MC4 Female and Male BLACK+DECKER BM3B 6V and 12V Automatic Battery Charger / Maintainer 6 Circuit Fuse Block W/Negative Bus Milwaukee Hand Truck with handle Control Panel with USB Charger,LED Voltmeter,12V Power Outlet, ON-OF Switch. To create a solar system that can truly meet your needs and cope with the variability of your environment, you really need to do some planning. This will help you avoid building a system that isn't up to the job and can save you considerable money by preventing the expense of replacing components later on. To calculate the number of batteries and solar panels you will need to create a system to provide power in all seasons through inclement weather and at your particular latitude, you need to determine the devices you intend to power, log their power consumption across a few days using a power meter. Then find the reserve days . This is how many non sunny days the system can tolerate while still powering your devices. Also find the recovery time by calculating how many days of sun that will be needed to fully recover when the batteries have run down due to lack of sun. You also need to know the usable charging hours in day and the actual battery round trip efficiency since batteries give back something less than the amount of power used to charge them. Here we use 4 100 Watt 12 Volt Monocrystalline Solar Panels to charge our 12 Volt Deep Cycle Battery. The panels are wired in series so that the voltages add together and you can get up to 80 volts from four panels. With this system there is enough voltage to begin charging as soon as there is any daylight at all. It also charges the batteries right up until dusk. Another advantage of the series wiring is that it is much better for long wire runs when the solar panels are not close to the generator and you can use less expensive smaller wire gauges for the solar panel runs. To use panels in series you must have an MPPT type charge controller. They are specially designed to accommodate the high voltage of panels wired in series up to the particular controllers voltage limit .MPPT controllers are much more efficient converting nearly all the energy coming from the panels into charging power for the battery. A 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter is used that can provide up to 4000 watts of surge power, and with enough battery support can run any conceivable device including those with motors. To store energy we use a 2 12V AGM marine batteries . These give plenty of reserved capacity that will last with reasonable care . They don't leak and can tolerate cheaper discharges and have very good round trip efficiency. Four 100 watt solar panels are connected through the 40 amp MPPT charge controller . The panels can deliver up to 2400 watts of solar power in the shortest days of winter. And the charge controller converts solar power to charging power very efficiently and also support serial panel configurations increasing the systems capability. A heavy duty hand truck is used for loading all the components . A frame made of angle iron is welded on to the platform to mount the batteries. Two angled straps are welded across the truck to provide more support for the battery frame. The various components are mounted on a back support made of five eighth inch plywood. I use a tapered punch to make starter holes for all the screws that hold the components. The hand cart is laid on its back and the plywood board is aligned in such a way it doesn't block the holes. While the cart was on its back I screw down all the components with stainless steel screws. For the project we use a thinner 18 gauge wire for the low current circuits, medium 14 gauge for the 12 volt port and heavy 10 gauge for the high current charging circuits. Red is always connected to the plus or positive connectors, black always to the minus or negative. The positives and the negative connection coming from the solar panels are connected to the solar charge controller with the help of a quick disconnect Wire Harness SAE Connector. The negative of the solar charge controller is directly connected to the negative connection of the battery while the positive goes through a fuse block before connecting the positive of the battery. The negative connections from switch, voltage display ,USB ports and battery charge meter is connected via a medium 14 gauge wire to the battery negative. The positives are connected to the battery through the fuse block. The 12 volt port is on its own fuse so it gets separate wires in the medium 14 gauge. The positive of the 12V Battery Charger is connected to the fuse while the negative is connected to the battery. The batteries are placed on platform of the cart facing opposite directions so that positive and the negative terminals are near the plywood backboard where the components are attached. The battery connection cables are cross connected to create a parallel 12 volt configuration careful to ensure the block cable connected only to minus terminals at both ends and the red cable connected only to plus terminals at both ends. Next step is the orientation of the solar panels. As you probably know the sun is lower in the sky in the winter higher in the summer. In the winter, the days are also shorter as you really want to optimize for winter to get as much energy as you can when the days are short. Since my panels are fixed, we want to point them due south and angle them for the winter sun. There are tables you can find online that can give you a pretty good idea of the right vertical angle for your geographical location. In the summer the sun is pretty much straight overhead, so the panels are optimal when laying flat. The angle panels are their most productive in the depth of the winter losing a little each day until the height of the summer as the sun is further off the winter angle. Meanwhile, the flat panels are less efficient in the winter because the sun is at a low angle but gaining each day as the sun gets higher in the sky. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QZYAAatdlmc
  • How to build a Super Efficient Portable Rocket Mass Heater from reclaimed and repurposed items and save up to 80% on your heating bills
    This project goes over the build of a homemade efficient rocket mass heater which is portable ,uses less fuel and burns clean. This heater is made out of reclaimed and repurposed materials. The cool thing about a rocket mass heater is that it stays warm long long after the fire is out. The whole thing is powered by a rocket stove, which is a j shaped burn chamber. Fuel goes in the short side of the J, the fire burned sideways and the bottom of it. And then the draw is created by a tall vertical heat riser. The gases then come out of that chimney go all around the inside of the barrel, a lot of the heat is given off into the room right off of the barrel. That's your radiant heat source for the room. The barrel acts as that radiant heat source. The gases then go through a valve in the barrel down below and through a series of tubes that are encased in mass such as aircrete or cob .The gases are able to shed the heat into the cob. And the cob stores it as a thermal battery. The gases make its rounds through the tubes and goes out through the exhaust pipe. The rocket mass heater shown here is made of a burn chamber, heat riser, bench for containing the tubes , the exhaust pipe and an insulation refractory material like aircrete which is a high temperature cement mix. The burn chamber is made from an old sheet metal pressure tank and a stainless steel water heater tank. The pressure tank insulated with aerated concrete sits inside the water heater tank. The combustion or gasification chamber is connected to the heat riser chimney through a three inch pipe insulated inside a six inch pipe. This pipe is also insulated with a refractory mix. The vortex chamber is connected to this pipe. The vortex chamber is made from a saw blade and a left over piece of pressure tank material . It is insulated with the refractory material . Six glue stick 3/8th inch air holes are drilled at right angles around this refractory material that creates a vortex extra air suction effect .So as that heat comes up and creates a negative pressure up the riser, it swirls around the vortex chamber and enhances the burn. The initial combustion creates enough heat to release way more gases than it has oxygen to burn. By introducing a vortex air intake system, the burn output is amplified. For making the insulated heat riser, we are going to use an aerated concrete refractory material called aircrete . We make the mould for the four inch heater riser using a metal mesh fabric, sarnafil roofing material and a thin gauge wire. Then it is filled it clay sand up to to the top . We take this mould and put it inside the six inch stove pipe and pour aircete through the sides all the way up to the top and let them sit to cure. We pull the sand out of the center of the heat riser. And then eject the liner that went against the inner fabric webbing that acted as a mold for the aircrete. The Aircrete heat riser is installed on top of the vortex chamber .The heat riser is double insulated with a old water tank and an old 55 gal oil barrel. Also the water tank is insulated from the 55 gal barrel using some pea gravel .The insulated water tank has an outlet pipe at the bottom for extension into the mass bench . The exhaust pipe coming out the insulated heat riser has a two foot drop to a directional valve connecting two pipes ,one pipe acts as a flue chimney that goes out into the outdoors through the window, the other goes into the mass bench. The valve allows us to redirect the air to pass to the bench once the heat riser is all warm. The eight foot long wooden mass bench houses the six inch stove pipes coming out the exhaust of the heat riser. It has a mylar reflective insulation sheet on the floor. This helps prevent the heat escape through the floor .The mass bench is then insulated with pea gravel which absorbs the heat and holds it and slowly radiate out over a period of time. The pipe coming out of the bench goes out of the window through the valve. The flue chimney pipe that goes out through the window to the outdoors is made of double walled stove pipe. A five inch pipe is inserted inside a seven inch pipe. The space between them is insulated with a aerated concrete refractory material .All this insulated exhaust pipe is doing is taking and adding an element of acceleration up the chimney to negate the net negative you get from dropping two feet down into the bench from the heat riser. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1ZKm7QZ-dY

This project goes over the build of a cheap Geothermal Solar air conditioner that can cool your home with the Earths natural cool temperature.

A few feet underground, the temperature remains between 55 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit. This is true regardless of the weather above ground.The geothermal unit siphons heat from inside and vents it into the water or refrigerant in the loop. The cool temperature underground then lowers the temperature of the liquid back to 55 degrees.

In my case when I draw the water well, the static water level is 2 feet above the ground and and what that means that there is a free flowing well that runs down the hill.

This is connected to a 55 gallon drum buried in the ground to keep it cool. A circulator pump is used to pump the water to the radiator.

The water well is about 85 feet.We drop a 10 foot pipe in there and get a cheap pump from a car and probably some check valves valves and maybe start a natural siphon and run out of solar.

You will need an old car radiator for this project. The Radiator used here is from an old Volvo Car. This is used to circulate air using a solar panel.

The water coming in is connected to the radiator and the water coming out the is attached to a PVC drain pipe . The radiator is hooked to a motor connected to a solar panel.

A Temperature sensor is attached to the radiator fan to detect the indoor temperature. The pump is out of the same Volvo car from which I got the radiator. A Coolant temperature sensor can be added to measure the temperature difference from the inlet versus the outlet and just see how much heat get pulled into the water .

The system works on Solar.You will need a Charge controller,DC to DC Convertor and 12 or 24V batteries.



RECENT POSTS YOU MIGHT LIKE
  • DIY Video:How to build an awesome Roof Top Portable ABS Pipe Hot Water Heater/Shower . Great for Camping/ Outdoors
    This project goes into the build of a DIY solar powered pressurized roof top water heater and shower that is portable for outdoor survival and camping trips. This project is easy to make and requires only minimal tools and plumbing parts. The dimension of the pipe used for this build is six feet tall and four inch wide. This has a capacity of 15 liters. The materials you need to build this project are six feet long four inch ABS pipe, air compressor, two four inch PVC end caps, abs cement, rubber schrader valve, shutdown valve and retainer nut, radiator valve drain plug , forstner bit,two inch threaded end cap, high heat flat black paint, steel wool scrubber, methyl hydrate. The shutoff valve is installed as low as possible in the pipe to avoid the necessity of having to tilt the system. Mark the position for the valve keeping the retainer nut in place , we insert a forstner bit into the nut creating a center mark for the drill .Once the hole is drilled ,we thread the shut off valve into place and attach the retaining nut. For installing air compressor for pressurizing the tank ,we use an long schrader valve that is used for aluminum rim tyres. This valve uses threaded nuts to secure it in place . Next step is to install the water intake opening. For this we use a two inch PVC threaded adapter socket . We take the diameter of the fitting and then drill out the opening and glue the fitting in place using ABS solvent cement. A radiator valve drain plug is installed on the threaded end cap of the water intake PVC fitting .This valve helps to release extra pressure from the tank without opening the main drain shut off. In order to improve thermal absorption of solar energy, the surface of the ABS pipe is painted with flat black paint. The surface is polished with steel wool soaked in methyl hydrate and applied one coat of spray primer followed by two coats of high heat restoleum black paint. To mount the shower to roof of the car or truck , we use a canoe foam block . We extend the slots in the foam block to make them fit inside the cross rails . An arc is cut on the foam block equal to the outside diameter of the pipe and positioned it such that it left half an inch of foam between the mounting slot and the bottom of the arc. To attach the shower to the support pads, here we use one inch nylon tie down straps. With both these pads in place, the water heater is securely attached to the roof. An inexpensive 25 foot long coiled three eighths inch hose from the local garden center is used as the shower hose. This would be perfect as it is easily stored and can be taken apart after use. The air compressor is connected to the pipe with the help of a multifunction spray nozzle . Thee bursting point of six inch ABS pipe is well over 100 psi .So a 30 psi would provide safe and ample pressurized shower without any long term expansion fatigue to the pipe or glue connections . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dG2HK9JsAjw
  • How to build a simple and effective Multi Purpose Waste oil Aluminum Scrapping Foundry / Forge out of Scrap Metal
    This project goes over the build of a convertible waste oil powered aluminum foundry / forge made out of recycled materials. Waste oil burning does get more than hot enough to melt down aluminum, which has a melting point of about 660.3 degree celsius. The materials you need for this project are old 10 gallon propane tank for the foundry, air compressor tank for the waste oil burner, blower from a car , three eighth inch hose and a brake line for feeding waste oil from a bucket, 12V marine battery for powering the blower. We take a car heater blower and house them inside an old tin can for the air intake. This is soldered to soup can and one and quarter inch schedule 80 pipe .This feeds air into the burner vessel. The fuel source which is the waste oil is drip fed from a five gallon jug with a brass gate valve. It is connected to the blower pipe through a three eighth inch hose and a metal brake line. The waste oil burner is from an old air compressor tank .It has a two inch cap on the top where we start the ignition and light the system. The pipe from the blower goes half an inch into the burner at an angle. This generates a cyclone vortex effect . We want to make sure that the oil and air are very well mixed together. In order to sustain combustion on something that's so difficult to ignite like waste oil, we have to have a source of heat so it can actually atomize, turn into a vapor where it will burn very easily and very effectively. The outlet from the burner is connected to the foundry propane tank through a three inch piece of axle welded with a rotating coupling piece. This can be rotated independently so that the foundry can be rotated to a forge mode with the help of a lever. We mark and cut the top of the propane tank that essentially forms the body of our foundry. Next, we are going to need to put a lining on the inside , probably about two and a quarter inches thick. This acts as an insulator. Here we use a 50% mix of plaster of paris and play sand. The propane tank is filled with the mix and the air compressor is submerged in the center to form a mould. We let the tank sit for 24 hours to cure before we remove the air compressor out of it. Next step is to create the hole into the side of tank that will be the outlet of our waste oil burner. The hole is cut at a height so that the the aluminum wont run down and back flow into the oil burner tank. We place a three inch axle through the hole that is welded to rotating coupling . This coupling attaches to the outlet of the oil burner. One the other side of the propane tank ,we add a small lever system with a latch to manually put the foundry into a forge mode. A one inch water pipe is connected to the tank .Inside of that one inch water pipe is this bit of one inch shaft with a hole drilled in to accept a three eighths inch bolt. A rebar with a latch mechanism is welded vertically to this pipe. The latch is pulled to pulled and the foundry is rotated into forge mode. The foundry sits on a cradle during the forge mode .The cradle is made out of two inch flat bar. The frame is constructed from one and a half inch by one and a half inch angle iron that I had laying around. To start the system , we use a little piece of rag cloth and poke it down into the inlet of the ignition port of the oil burner. We apply a little waste motor oil and start the ignition. Once the flame begins , we apply power to our blower motor by connecting it to the 12V battery. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l95fkSaaOEE
  • How to Heat your Home or Garage for Free by building Solar Air Heating Collectors that uses no electricity or batteries
    Solar heat collectors are a good supplemental heating source that can provide homeowners with free heat for their home when the sun is shining. Solar collectors are a box like structure that capture the energy from the sun and convert it into usable energy for heating purposes. Inside the collector solar energy is simply converted into usable thermal energy. On the front side of the solar collectors . a clear panel or glazing material typically polycarbonate sheeting, single pane glass ,double pane glass face towards the sun and allow the sunlight into the collector box. On the inside of the collector box is a heat exchanger or a absorber. The heat exchanger or absorber is responsible for transferring the heat of the sun into a usable thermal heat source. The heat exchanger is suspended or attached inside the collector box and should be coated flat black with a high heat temperature resistant paint. The flat black paint helps to absorb the heat energy from the sun. It is very important to utilize a flat finish black paint inside the collector box. If the paint has a reflective coating, it will reflect the sun back outside of the collector, which results in lost potential energy. It assists with the entrapment of that heat energy rather than reflecting it away from the collector. Once the sunlight has penetrated the collector box through the glazing, the heat exchanger material and the flat black paint will absorb that heat and begin to warm the air inside the collector. As the air inside the collector and around the absorber warms, it will expand and rise. The expansion of warm air will naturally create a convection current. As the air inside the collector rises, it will continue to pick up heat through friction with the absorber. The air passing over and through the absorber is given more opportunity to gain heat by rubbing against that surface which is being heated by the sun. Now that the air is warm and picking up heat and needs a way to move through the collector box, we install two vents on the backside of the solar collector facing towards the room or space that we want to heat. Through the vent at the top of the collector, the heated air moves into the home , the vent at the bottom allows the cooler air to return back to the the collector. Having a return event at the bottom and a supplier event at the top of the solar collector allows natural convection process. The air inside the collector is picking up heat from the absorber and is naturally wanting to rise up and out of the collector. A natural force of air rising will induce a convection current, which will pull cooler return air from the room or condition space into the bottom of the collector box. The collector creates a convection current inside the room .It removes cooler dense air from the bottom of the room and takes it through the collector where it is warm, and then exhausts the heated air out of the supply duct back into the room. This project goes over the build of an entirely self contained Solar Air Heater using no grid power whatsoever. The unit draws the cold air from the room and exhausts hot air into the room using a 2 5V DC brushless 7 vane case fans. This fans are powered by a 16 Watt Amorphous solar panel. Both the intake and exhaust pipes ore of 5 inch diameter. 9 rows of 17 soda pop cans , a total of 153 355ml soda cans are used for the collector. The aluminum pop cans are painted with a flat black paint to ensure all sunlight is absorbed and not reflected. Also there is a five inch intake and exhaust manifold at the bottom and top of the unit. This ensures that all air travels through the interior of the aluminum cans. To maximize the heat transfer from the sun to air within a given space, we need to build a better heat exchanger. Solar air heating systems use air as the working fluid for absorbing and transferring solar energy. Transferring heat from one place to another by definition is a heat exchanger. When the sun heats the metal, the hot metal heats the air circulating over the metal of the heat exchanger. The job is to capture radiation from the sun and transfer this thermal energy to air via conduction heat transfer. Heat transfer output depends on the rise in temperature and the airflow. In order to minimize heat loss through the plexiglass , we keep the absorber temperature as low as usually possible. The cooler the absorber runs, the less heat will be lost out of the glass. A way to keep the absorber cooler while extracting the same amount of energy from the sun is to increase the airflow. To improve conduction heat transfer without significantly reducing airflow , we disturb the airflow within the solar air tubes . Four holes are put in some of the soda cans to create a baffle that increase the turbulence .These baffle cans are placed evenly across the tubes to distribute the airflow. We place the first baffle cans on the second row from the bottom with the intention of disturbing the airflow early. The second baffle will be located in the 10th can . In order to stack the empty cans, we make an assembly tray "V" shaped support structure using leftover baseboard. The cans are glued together using PL Premium construction adhesive that is water resistant, non shrinking and paintable. The soda cans are positioned on the loading tray and slowly rotated to evenly distribute the construction adhesive. The "V" channel made from baseboards holds the cans perfectly straight. The box for the Solar air heater is made of 5052 aluminum alloy sheets. The dimension of the box are 91 inches tall and 24 inches wide. We use a one inch flange and a metal bending brake to bend the aluminum to make the sides of the box. The top and bottom caps are bend to fit on the top and bottom of the box . When manufacturing the bottom caps, the distance between the bends is decreased by one millimeter to allow the caps to fit inside the solar air box to facilitate drainage. Next step is securing the aluminum box top and bottom .The procedure involves using a smaller diameter drill bit as a pilot and then drilling to final size for the rivet only after the two pieces are mated together. The pieces being held together via cleco fasteners. The function of the cleco is to temporarily hold material in the exact position during the manufacturing process. Two five inches holes are cut at both top and bottom on the box to install the plenums. The intake and the exhaust pipes for the two solar air heaters are manufactured from a single piece of five inch HVAC plenum. These are inserted and secured into the holes using construction adhesive. The back of the box is insulated using two sheets of half inch foam sheet. One sheet of half inch foam is installed on the sides. A pneumatic air file is used to cut the sheets. We install a snap action thermostat in the interior of the exhaust manifold, constantly monitoring the temperature of the air being brought into the dwelling. The intake and exhaust manifolds need to ensure that all air travel through the interior of the cans therefore it is important to have a good seal to each can. This also means that the manifold itself needs to seal well against the interior of the heat box. Nine holes are cut on a two sheets of half inch plywood to make the intake and the exhaust manifolds. These manifolds are secured in place against the cans using PL construction adhesives. The solar air tubes are held tight inside the box using two 1/16th half inch 6063 aluminum extrudes. These lightly applying pressure on the cans holding them firmly against the back of the heat chamber. Three separate coats of high heat black rest-o-leum paint are applied to the box , all within 60 minutes of each other. Clear silicon adhesive will be the primary method of adhering the Plexiglas to the solar air heater. After precisely positioning the glass on top of the heat chamber, I used a 1/8 inch pilot drill to go through the plexiglass. One full tube of silicone is used around the perimeter prior to laying the glass down. We install 2 16 Watt Sailflo Duct Exhaust fans with a capacity of moving 141 CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) for air . These are powered by a small solar panel. One blowing air into the chamber and one sucking air out. This helps to overcome the additional internal airflow resistance built into the design. The completed solar air collector is installed outside facing south to maximize the exposure to the sun. Once the solar air collector is installed outside , we take the temperature rise between the incoming and outgoing air while moving 141 cubic feet of air per minute from the fans . The calculate the amount of heat transfer we multiply the CFM and Temperature rise with a factor of 1.08. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL6YanwREcLx7h747VhKjJLClqvBmy5cF5



RECENT POSTS YOU MIGHT LIKE
  • How to build your own DIY off grid / grid down Solar Power Back up system from scratch
    This project goes over the build of a Solar Power Grid Down Backup System to generate your own alternative power.A great way to utilize renewable energy as a backup source of power. Whatever may be the reason , may be to offset electricity bills or for self reliance to provide when the grid goes down, a solar backup system is simply a great way to provide alternative power to maintain a lifestyle of reasonable convenience. If the grid should go down, I can have a freezer, power lighting, pump water, maintain communications, use tools, and charge every little device I have from flashlights to kindles. This Off grid Solar Power System is composed of 5 components. Solar panels to generate the power, a charge controller to charge the batteries, the batteries to store the energy, the inverter to provide AC to the household items you wish to power. Also you need a Kilowatt meter. The kilowatt meter measures two things you have to know how much energy your devices draw at any given moment, and how much power they consume over time. Here we use 100 watt monocrystalline panels, a 40 amp MPPT charge controller, a 1000 watt pure sine wave inverter and to store the energy, 446 volt golf cart batteries totaling 470 amp hours. First you need to size your system by figuring out how many devices you are going to want to run at the same time. This will determine the size of your inverter, the inverters function is to take DC power from the batteries and converted to AC power for use with household appliances. If I have 1000 watt inverter, this means I can run up to 1000 watts worth of devices at the same time. Once you have evaluated every device that you feel that you are going to need, should the grid go down, you are gonna have a good idea of how much power you need to generate each day. The battery bank consists of four, six volt, Duracell SLIGC 125, golf cart batteries connected in series. Golf cart batteries are designed to deliver a lower amount of power over a longer period of time and then recharge quickly. When picking a spot to locate your panels, you have to consider that the sun will be lower towards the horizon in the winter, and closer to directly overhead in the summer. Building a system that actually tracks the sun would be best as the panels are always pointed directly at the sun. Also mount your panels as close as possible to the batteries. This is because the longer your wire run, the more energy is wasted due to resistance. You also need to select the proper gauge wire to transmit the power from the solar panels to the batteries. Between the panels and the batteries is the charge controller ,it controls the charge of the batteries and make sure that the batteries get the proper voltage that they need and that they don't get overcharged. Here we use an MPPT Solar Charge controller. If your solar panels are wired in series and connected to an MPPT charge controller, the voltage adds up ,thus giving us enough voltage to charge the batteries. An MPPT charge controller can charge your batteries nearly the entire time The sun is out. If your panels are far away and you want to save money and wiring, then the MPPT charge controller is way more efficient than PWM. The first step in making your solar system safe is making sure that there's an automatic and a manual way to disconnect power in each segment of the system. Starting right here at the battery box we have a 300 amp manual switch to kill the power from the batteries to the inverter as well as a 200 amp fuse that will blow automatically. Another component to the safety is the grounding. Grounding your system is quite easy to do. So get an eight foot grounding rod and drive it into the ground. Then pick up some copper grounding wire, some lugs and connect the frames have all the panels in any metal components in the system including the charge controller and the inverter.
  • How to build an Inexpensive Geothermal Solar Air Conditioning System to Cool your Garage using an Old Car Radiator ,Solar Panel.
    This project goes over the build of a cheap Geothermal Solar air conditioner that can cool your home with the Earths natural cool temperature. A few feet underground, the temperature remains between 55 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit. This is true regardless of the weather above ground.The geothermal unit siphons heat from inside and vents it into the water or refrigerant in the loop. The cool temperature underground then lowers the temperature of the liquid back to 55 degrees. In my case when I draw the water well, the static water level is 2 feet above the ground and and what that means that there is a free flowing well that runs down the hill. This is connected to a 55 gallon drum buried in the ground to keep it cool. A circulator pump is used to pump the water to the radiator. The water well is about 85 feet.We drop a 10 foot pipe in there and get a cheap pump from a car and probably some check valves valves and maybe start a natural siphon and run out of solar. You will need an old car radiator for this project. The Radiator used here is from an old Volvo Car. This is used to circulate air using a solar panel. The water coming in is connected to the radiator and the water coming out the is attached to a PVC drain pipe . The radiator is hooked to a motor connected to a solar panel. A Temperature sensor is attached to the radiator fan to detect the indoor temperature. The pump is out of the same Volvo car from which I got the radiator. A Coolant temperature sensor can be added to measure the temperature difference from the inlet versus the outlet and just see how much heat get pulled into the water . The system works on Solar.You will need a Charge controller,DC to DC Convertor and 12 or 24V batteries. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sOxnJ5DceeU&list=PLpZKoEWMZEz_OeTiV3mx47jy1jOUL6yqe
  • How to set up a Complete Off the grid living System using Solar and Wind Turbines . Make your own Power and never pay for electricity again.
    If you're going to run your home ,cabin or garage off grid, you are going to need some way of having power. Enter Solar and Wind. This project goes over the build of a complete off grid power generation system that can harness the clean and green renewable energy of the sun and the wind. Here is the basic rundown of the system .We go from sun to solar panels, there is no limit on how many solar panels we can put. It goes into a charge controller, it helps the solar panels create really efficient electricity to be pumped into your battery bank. Charge controller also makes sure that the batteries are being charged correctly and stay optimum. So solar panels to charge controller, and then that goes directly to your battery bank. The other source of renewable power is wind. The wind turbine is connected to a stop switch that goes into your battery bank. In some cases in between you can put up a wind turbine charge controller. Next step is converting the DC power to AC power with an inverter. The inverter basically converts the power to make it usable for your home. The inverter also has to be sized appropriately. From inverter to breaker panel which spreads the the power out throughout your house through your light switches, wall sockets. From breaker panel straight to your house or cabin. The first step is sizing your system. The battery voltage is going to determine what type of equipment you are going to be buying, and how you are going to be wiring your battery bank. So if you go with a 12 volt system, then you are going to want to make sure that your solar panels are wired up correctly for 12 volt. Even when you go with a wind turbine, you are going to want to make sure you buy the correct wind turbine for your battery voltage .So everything has to be sized appropriately so that you can collect as much energies as efficiently and then you can draw that power out. The golf cart batteries in my system are of 6 Volts. I have 6 of them wired in parallel, and in series to give me a 12 volt battery bank. The control panel box consists of my charge controller, voltmeter and 2 ammeters for both reading both solar and wind power amps. Four 12V Solar panels , each 100 watts are wired together . All the positives are connected to each other and all the negatives are connected to each other. The wiring goes straight into the control panel. The wind turbine used here is also 12V.The 3 Phase connections from the turbine goes into the bridge rectifier. The negative connection from the rectifier goes straight to the batteries, the positive goes to a junction box that connects the turbine and the inline fuse and 50amp breaker. The negative of the inverter goes into the negative of the batteries ,positive to positive. The romex wire from the inverter goes into the breaker panel in the house. The Permanent Motor Alternator turbine stands on a 6 foot pole .We have these two steel pipes that go down into the ground, three feet. There's another piece of steel that runs across here that's welded together, and it's in the bottom, and then we poured concrete over it to anchor it. Three tie down points are connected to the turbine to keep the pole steady from rocking around especially in high winds. So that way, when the blades turn, the bearings don't get worn out prematurely from wobbling. The Permanent Motor Alternator (PMA) used in this turbine consists of 2 shell casing, two bearings, a rotor inside and a stainless steel shaft. The tail of the turbine is made from a sheet metal cut to look like a fin.It is attached to a steel pole.This is further connected to the PMA alternator. The 11 blades of the turbine is attached to a hub and a pulley through a steel shaft. The belt is connected to a secondary pulley which is connected to the Permanent magnet alternator. The wire from the PMA is connected through MC4 connectors to the control panel. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4zi99DBWW0o Wind turbine and solar power system overview : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jT8yswXdxFk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uXKDy_BgdL0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DRfsjyCPXM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WTN7cMLE0ec Setup of the wind turbines : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QDUxNU8t-TU