This is the build of a simple Wood gas generator for small 5HP electric generator.This is made from simple materials that can be easily found around your home.
The main generator here is a 20 gallon garbage can inside I have a wine cooler and inside there I have hung a small steel bowl.
It’s just connected up to this very long aluminum duck line to my filter and my filter has been filled with wood pellets to also serve as the fuel.
Then the outlet line goes over to an air inlet port.When you burn the gas you have to add air and this is the valve I’ve designed to allow that.
It goes all the way to the RV Gas engine.You can cut off the fuel by using a wire to cut off the fuel pump.
We use a 20 gallon garbage can as the filter.So first I use a quarter inch drill to put two holes in here and then I’ve enlarged it with a nibbler.Put a harbour wire down in the can where the filter medium is dumped.
I use pine wood shavings as a filter medium.Use about 1/3 to fill up my 20 gallon.
The reactor is basically constructed out of a stainless steel thermos, which is a central cylinder that is double walled and it has like a one inch opening at the bottom. And below that we’ve just hung a steel mixing bowl that we basically drilled a lot of holes into and then hung by these three chains that you have riveted in.
And then we just connected it with a simple 20 foot ordinary dryer duct.
The reactor is filled up some wood pellets ,we have stretched out the hose, this will cool the gas into the improved 20 gallon filter.
And I’m going to be driving this with a small air mattress pump. And what I’ve done is I’ve rigged myself a dimmer control here so I can actually control the speed.
A Beginner tutorial on how to make a wind turbine ceiling fan.So out of the box, we have the main part here, which has the motor in it.Keep up with all the blades if you can. You can use this for the furrow on the back the way it pushes around to keep the turbine from standing in a very aggressive wind it pushes it out of the way
First part is just getting the motor outside of this casing. And you want to be careful because these wires are fragile, and you don’t want to tear those loose by any means.So mainly, the tools that you’ll need is just a screwdriver, maybe a flathead screwdriver and a hammer eventually.
Take the top part of the ceiling fan off, this is the part that’s next to the ceiling.Disconnect the wires don’t cut them.
There’s a nut here with a washer that holds this plate.And we don’t want this plate. So we need to take that off. However, we do want the washers here.
Take this casing apart, and inside you’ll see that copper coils that actually power the fan.
The next step is finding the highest arm reading of these four wires that is coming out of this motor.Pull that higest ohm reading wires through the center pole to the other side.
Insert a metal banding used for attaching the magnets around the stator.
Put the magnets inside the fan housing to achieve a voltage reading.Add a cardboard spacer in there so that the magnets are aligned with the stator.
The blades are made of 4 inch PVC.You can find templates online for the blades.Put the outline of the blades from the paper onto the PVC and then cut it out with a jigsaw. And then once you cut it out with a jigsaw, all you have to do is get a little Sander out, you can use a hand Sander to smooth the edges off.
Connect the blades to the faceplate of the old ceiling fan.
Next step is to take an inch galvanised pipe that forms the body of the turbine. A 40 inch piece will slide down into the conduit of the mounting system for your turbine.A 30 inch piece on the back,This is going to be angled up into the wind to keep the blades in the wind a little better.
One Inch PVC is slid down the end of the 30 inch pipe and attach the tail piece on there which is made of fan blade
The wires from the fan is passed through the pipe and just zip tie them down.Cut the PVC in half to a 45 degree elbow ,cut a line down through this PVC, we’re gonna split it basically and drill some holes in it and attach the ceiling fan blade.
Attach the fan to the galvanized pipe with the help of an extension that was previously saved during our dismantling of the ceiling fan.Use JB weld on the inside of that. And I put this bolt through this part and put a tightening screw on it, they’re kind of digs into the metal.
Connect the two leads from the fan to a bell wire, solder these two together, wrap it up with some electrical tape and kind of zip tie to the top so that it will stay in place.At the base end of the wire,connect it with a diode bridge rectifier which is further connected to our battery.
Regarding connecting the rectifier,it doesnt matter how you solder them together,just as long as they are separate and not connecting and shorting out.
But you want to put this at the base of the wire at the very end so that you can put this inside of your battery box and hook it up to your battery.
This is a wood powered gasifier stove that produces gasoline runs your generator, runs your propane hot water heater, heats hot water for you all off the grid. A simple design of a mini gasifying woodstove prototype here you’ve got some open latches, open up the door, the doors got the baton handle so it naturally stops on the downfall
Inside the firebox, I’ve got a gasification style system built in there.One of the key things about a gasifying woodstove is that not only can I run it in a typical gasification wood stove manner, heat my home. But if I reverse that action with a fan and a draw system underneath the stove, with the ability to shut off the flow out the chimney pipe, and then draw down underneath the stove, reverse the action of the system, I can produce syn gas that can go outside and into a generator.
This system has little latch up here at the top drops open so you can get in there work the material around.By actually pulling the little latch out and the bottom of the main gasifier inside of there to shut it and rotate it locks into place .It is actually a dump plate on the bottom of the main gasification chamber so that all the ash and all the coal that’s not burned can dump out of the system into a tray below.
A secondary burn system with two layers of stove pipe, one smaller inner diameter stove pipe and one larger one is made for a better burn to take place with fresh air inlets right there in the chamber.
The outer sleeve stops below the bottom allows air to travel up in between rise up to the pipe.There is a set of burner holes that makes sure to mix fresh oxygen that creates a swirl in there and helps burn any leftover syn gas in the production system. So there’s no smoke coming out of this in the end.
Inside the woodstove is the inner chamber holds all your material, it gets hot and then creates an airdrop between this outer wall and the inner chamber wall that airdrop comes out these holes mixes fresh oxygen into the top of the system with the smoke and burns it. The bottom holes allow air to dry in from the bottom to complete that burn as the material burns down to the bottom. It also works slightly as a venturi system as air is drawn up these walls towards these holes, creates a vacuum down here at the bottom holes and pull some of the smoke out a downward draw into the system and pull some of it into here helping mix some of the smoke With the air and will swirl it so it’ll burn cleanly.
The single air inlet hole is used to pull the smoke out of the bottom to reverse this process to put syn gas out of this stove outside into a generator.
There is inner set of holes in the bottom of the stove pipe.This helps mix air between the walls.The air gets drawn up between the wall since the inner pipe is longer than the outer pipe which mixes fresh air and completes the secondary burn to make sure there’s no smoke coming out of this pipe.
This is gonna be the bio crude oil production system here which is basically another term for a creosote that you produce from syn gas production, otherwise known as gasification production.
It’s got just a single pipe rolling out of the backside of it which is connected to a creosote collection container.
As this gas starts to cool, it’s going to come up to here it’s going to work its way up hill, as it does so the hydrogen inside of the gas will be the lightest of all the gas is traveling uphill and definitely make it over the top much of the creosote we built re drip down into the second collection container here.
Now the rest of its gonna go up cross through the pipe here and come down to a condenser
The reactor shown here is made of two of five gallon steel cans.I cut the top off of one and the bottom off of another and slid them over each other. So they make a really long slide seal over each other one pipe, as you can tell here, welded in. With an elbow, it’s a one inch pipe coming out of the back of they’re welded in with an elbow.
The downward slope of the pipe force the smoke to release as much of this crude as it possibly can. Because it’s actually wanting to go uphill, which would be easy to smoke not going to cool real quickly. by forcing it slightly downhill, we’re forcing a lot of that heat energy out, making sure it’s releasing a lot of that, let’s call it creosote or bio crude. It also allows for the creosote to roll down the bottom of the pipe into a container.
The gas moves through a reduction point which reduces the pressure.The gas gets refined and reduced slightly in volume through the system.
Hydrogen, carbon monoxide and all the rest of the lighter gases are going to easily flow up this pipe through thermodynamic pressure. Now you’ve cooled a lot of that gas by running it downhill, trying to bring in into this lower container as much the second grade creosote as you can, or biocrude. Now by running it up hill again, you can really force all the heavy hydrocarbons and other elements inside of this to focus out of the hydrogen gas and the carbon monoxide.
This is a downhill pipe that’s going to go anti the direction of natural thermodynamic processes that’ll help condense out or precipitate out some of the oils at a much faster rate than it would be if that pipe was going the natural thermodynamic flow direction.The first catch is going to be the heaviest and thickness of the current Crude oil.
It goes down that pipe from a reduction point here into the secondary catch.This comes up the hill here at the lighter gases not yet condensed, rises across loses a lot of energy and now is once again restricted into a quarter inch copper gas pipe into a 5 gallon water tank with a 20 loop condenser coil inside .
The pipe out of that tank runs into a one gallon pickle jar. The next pipe comes out of the top of the jar, we’re not actually trying to put it down too far because you don’t want to bubble and once it starts to fill with crude oil, you just want to grab them the lightest of the gases, the hydrogens and the nitrogen, carbon monoxides and others that are still left within this system you want to grab, grab that right off the top.
Now it comes up this pipe here goes through the T and once again we have a secondary condenser that this goes through now it’s about four or five loops going through there, comes out through there. And that’s where the liquids gonna condense from this condenser that’s where it’s going to be caught. The liquid will be flowing, dropping the jug and the lighter Smoke will continue on now down the pipe.
The result of the bio crude oil project collecting 4 grades of oil.So the next step of this project now is to put this all through the refinery, which will actually be connected inside the woodstove that made all of this.
So in the end, what we’ll have is all the liquid being produced the crude oil once again, flow back to the woodstove go through the refinery out the refinery tower, and on the other side, we’ll have a high grade fuel to use in any engine.
Salvage waste motor oil, transmission fluid, old diesel that has water in it, whatever type of fuel that you might be able to have access to, wouldn’t it be great to be able to take that fuel and run it in your vehicles and not throw it away? Or have to recycle it, you can recycle it yourself.
Well, one of the ways is to filter. But filter material is expensive, and you got to constantly replace it. So I was introduced to this filter. Actually, it’s a centrifuge by USfilterMaxx.
This is just our initial test where we’re going to take waste motor oil, dump it in the top of the centrifuge at spinning at about 3000 RPMs or more.
And then we’re going to drain and the result will be waste will be sludge in one bucket and clean motor oil and the other that can be mixed with diesel or run straight.
In some diesel engines be careful on how you do this, you don’t wanna mess up your injectors. But for old diesel engines that are very pretty forgiving, this is a great solution.
So again, this stuff will go in my tractor or my old two cylinder diesel generator, but I’m just taking waste motor oil, and spinning out everything to make to make fuel, waste or motor oil has a ton of btu’s in it. And mixing it with diesel makes for a very good sustainable solution.
This is just some motor oil, nice and black from a friend of mine is changing oil in his truck. And we’re gonna start with a two and a half gallon batch and run this through the centrifuge and see what she does with it. So you can see how black it is.
Run the centrifuge on start introducing the waste oil. Okay, we’re starting to get this filtered oil out.We’re just doing a two and a half gallon batch run here. And then we’re going to shut the centrifuge off.
And the only way to really tell if we did anything was to see how much sludge is left in the centrifuge. That doesn’t work until the centrifuge stops spinning because all the sludges is gonna be stuck to the outside wall.
The sludge starts coming out.The centrifuge has stopped spinning, everything moves to the center and that’s where the drain plug is
This is the guts of the centrifuge. When this is spinning, it takes the oil coming in and pushes it out, and it comes over the dam, the clean stuff comes over here, it looks like it never had oil on it. And then that drops in here to come out the clean tube. When you stop spinning, the internal drains here. That’s where the sludge is coming.
The centrifuge run off a 220 power source. So you will need a generator or grid power to run it, or a pretty good battery bank in an inverter to run it
We’re gonna take our motor oil that we’ve just spun in a centrifuge, and we’re going to put about a gallon and a half of it in this five gallon jug, and then I’m going to add a gallon and a half of diesel.We’re gonna pour some of our motor oil mix and veggie. I mean motor oil and diesel 50-50 combination first.
We’ve added a few cool features to our centrifuge we added a shell and tube heat exchanger made out of copper. So we can take hot water and heat the oil, the stored oil to a point where the viscosity is, is much lower, and it’ll spin out a lot cleaner. We’ve added a little solar direct drive water pump, throwing off a little 20 watt panel, moving the hot water through the shell and tube.
We’ve also added a P-trap to make sure any of the vapors from the hot oil do not escape into the clean oil bucket. They stay in the centrifuge and actually are evacuated out of the sludge side.
We use thermo siphoning using a used water heater for the heat .This is free heat, there’s no pumps, just thermo siphoning up to this tank and then using the little solar pump to take the hot water off the top of that tank and run it to our shell and tube.
So pretty much off the grid water heating, heating lots of water using a thermal siphoning process.