This tutorial goes over the basic overview of a 24×24, two 9-foot door, one side door window garage.
STEP 1 : PREREQUISITES
First of all, you will need to take permission from the building inspector. The inspector makes sure that you are within zoning requirements. You will need the paperwork, and plot plan when you go to the building inspector and those are available from your assessor’s office or the town hall or you may have one with your deed.
STEP 2 : LAYING THE FOUNDATION
Started with a bucket loader come in, take out some trees level off the area remove blushes, and prep for the concrete work.
The first step is to dig down and install the footings where the wall is kind of set. Here I have a four-foot wall put in with the floating floor.
The Wall of the foundation is about six inches high, it goes into the ground four feet. And one reason that I wanted the wall foundation versus a flat pad foundation is because of the bug issues.
STEP 3 : THE FLOORING
After the footings are dry in a few days, the walls are put up and I have the openings for the two nine-foot doors and a side door.
After they dry for a few days, the floor screen is laid. This is a standard 4-inch thick flooring.
A floating floor means that in reality, if the ground swells during the wintertime, the floor can actually rise up and sink down. But it prevents it from cracking because it does have a little give to it. So it’s not actually connected to this wall. It’s poured right up against it, but the floor is a separate piece by itself.
STEP 4 : THE WALLS
When the walls are poured every four feet they have a half-inch threaded rod that’s embedded into the concrete while it’s still wet, it goes down about maybe a foot and a half and has an L shape on the bottom in the rod will stick up directly in the center of the 2 X 4.
2 inlets for underground wiring,a 50 and 130 amp circuit.Its buried four feet down through the PVC.
The walls are standard 2 X 4, a double sill plate and a top plate those are the two that run horizontally. I use pressure treated against the concrete which will take care of the bug issues.
The headers for the garage door are standard 2X10, double up half-inch plywood in the center.
STEP 5 : THE TRUSSES
The plywood on the three sides and trusses are put up. The trusses are put upside down and they are flipped up. But once they’re up there I marked the top sills where I wanted them nailed them and put braces across the top, measured and straighten them out.
The first truss on the end of the building on both ends is called the gable end. It’s a little different than the other main trusses. The trusses are 24 inches in the center, which means that they’re spaced 24 inches apart, unlike the walls which are 16.
STEP 6 : THE ROOFING
The roof and the sides are on half-inch plywood.I also run some stringers down the center and off to the sides to help so they won’t twist during a snowstorm. One thing that’s very important is when you put up the plywood the very first piece that you put on is the most important piece of wood that you’re going to put in this garage because everything references that one piece. It has to be square to the gable end.
When the first piece of plywood is put up, you install the plywood ties between the trusses and all that does is if the roof gets moisture from inside the garage,it will tend to flex.The ties help in keeping them nice and flat and avoid the bowing.
The truss catwalk goes right down the center which stabilizes the horizontal bottom piece of the truss.
The doors are framed and the roof is made of standard architectural shingles. These shingles have more lifespan. Also added tarpaper on the roof. The wiring is through down the center of the catwalk.
The finished garage and the build videos
