This project shows you how can take an old table fan and convert it into a simple ,cheap and easy to make homemade AC .
The materials needed for the this project are a table fan, 75 gallon per hour fountain pump with valve to control the water flow, multi purpose zip ties ,two 3/8th inch transparent PVC Pipe tube, 15 foot quarter inch copper tube,two hose clamps.
Unhook the locks if any and remove the screen of the fan. Take the copper coil and wind them across the rims of the fan .Secure them tight on the screen using multi purpose ties.
Add the screen back to the fan body and then adjust the two ends of the copper coil by bending them to face the back of the fan and secure them using ties.
Two 3/8 transparent vinyl PVC pipes are connected to the copper tube ends using hose clamps.
We attach the fountain pump to the end of the vinyl PVC tube that goes straight into our cooler. The recirculated water coming from the other end of the tube goes straight back into the cooler bag. The cooler bag is filled with ice packs and water. The water pump is submerged into the bottom of the bag with ice and water over it.
The water which is pumped with the help of the fountain pump gets recycled through the vinyl and the copper pipe and moves back into the bag, so you dont need to add more water .Both the pump and fan can be connected to solar generator in case if you want to make the system portable .
This project goes over the build of a simple Bandsaw from old car wheels .Car wheels are big and heavy, but in many ways, they are ideal for bandsaws. They are available everywhere cheaply. They have a rubber tire for the blade to sit on, and they have excellent bearings.
Take apart the brakes, the backplate , bearings and the stub axle out of the housing. Weld the stub axle onto an off cut of scaffolding.
So we now have two wheels, spinning on the ends of two straight lengths of steel.
We take some scrap angle iron pieces and make a rectangular frame for the mill. This form as the base of our mill.
In order to make the sliding mechanism, we take a scrap pipe and try to fit it onto a square iron pipe so it can slide in and out smoothly. This will be used for all adjustments. This is welded onto the frame.
A Steel plate is welded onto the sliding bars. This is for the engine to sit on. The engine will drive one of the car wheels
We mount the 11 HP Petrol Engine to steel plate and the tire is connected directly to the engine shaft through a drive belt.
The drive wheel is bolted on to the frame ,also added a lever for the engine mount which will act as a sort of clutch, tightening and slackening the belt when necessary.
We add two more pipes on the bottom of the frame and slid them to the support platform of the second wheel made from the same square box iron and some short sections which is part of the blade guide.
The second wheel has to be adjustable in a few different directions and has to be lined up with the first wheel so the blade stays on them both without running off the tires. To adjust the tension on the blade by moving the wheel away from the first one, we use a bottle screw.
The blade guides are made from cheap bearings. They needs to be adjustable so that the saw can cope with logs of different sizes. The blade guides help keep the blade straight as it goes through the log and also stops the plate being pushed off wheels
The band saw has to go up and down so that it can cut planks from a log. We make a simple frame to hold it. It has to fit inside vertical pieces of angle iron on the saw. The support frame is bolted onto to the saw by using a bracket which grip the uprights.
Couple of barn door pulleys are bolted onto the top of the support frame and the mill frame. A trailer winch is bolted on to the middle of the support frame. Using a 3mm wire and winch-pulley system, we can move the wheel frame up and down.
Two short pipes are added at the front and these hold up a guard which can be taken off when we need to get at the belt or the blade. If the blade snaps, the side guards should make sure that it heads down towards the ground and not up to the ceiling.
The saw is stationary and the log is moved through it using dolly trailers or rails.
This project goes over the build of a simple Homemade Bandsaw mill that can that turn hard maple into smaller lumber .
The first step is to make the wheels of the mill. Here we use a three quarter MDF board to make this. The wheel size is 16 inch. We use a beam compass to cut circles and cut two wheels out of them.
We make a seven and half pulley for the wheel using a three quarter inch plywood and drill a five eighth inch hole into the middle where the shaft goes.
We take some hot melt glue and glue the stock collar onto the pulley and tighten it with a set screw so as to stop it from spinning.
Before joining the wheel and pulley together, we make another small disc to go in between to act as a spacer .We glue the pulley to this spacer and from spacer to the wheel.
Two wheel bearing blocks are bolted to the wheel on both sides using 4 three eighth inch threaded rods. Make sure that the threaded rods are tight inside the hole in the wheel, but the bearing blocks itself can move around. One way to keep these bearing blocks in place so that they dont move side to side is to apply some construction adhesive to the corners.
Next step is building the frame for the saw from salvaged 2 X 4 boards. Make sure that the 2X 4’s are straight. Take the bench hand plane and smoothen the edges so that the boards sit flat. It takes several shallow passes flipping the woods each time to get rid of all the twists and warps.
Two frames pieces hold the wheel in ,the stationary drive wheel is placed eight and half inches from the end. Two five eighth inch holes are drilled on both the frames so that axles fits in there neatly. On the other side, one holes are drilled that gives the room to adjust the wheel. We also make an adjustment collar out of plywood that is bolted into the frame and the shaft . The collar can be moved to adjust the wheel.
We also place couple of pieces across the frame and secure them tight so that the supporting boards are locked in position.
On the other side we install the front wheel or top wheel. This wheel needs to move back and forth to put tension on the blade. It also must have a tracking mechanism. For that we make a two small piece that locks into the shaft on the front wheel and slides back and fourth. A guide piece is drilled onto to this piece . A one inch hole is drilled into our slider piece and a three eighth inch threaded rod is secured in there with a nut and washer. These rods help put tension on the blade and also adjusts tracking.
Before putting the blades on the wheels, we put silicone caulking on the wheels to smoothen it out .These have advantage over bicycle inner tubes as it doesn’t drape down over.
The legs are attached to the frame using gusset blocks.
To put the motor onto the frame , we take a melamine board and screw them aside the stationary wheel using a cross board. This piece of melamine not only supports the motor, it also helps to brace up the top to keep that from rocking. Secure them tight so that it resists moving while the cutting is going on.
Next we make blade guides near the bottom to make a guard for the blades just in case it snaps and flies off. The blade guides are made of small piece of steel angle that is glued to a ceramic piece.
The way blade guides work is that they don’t actually touch the blade when it is running. It is only when the blade tries to move up or down that it will constrain it and keep it on track and prevent it from twisting.
A thrust bearing made of regular size ball bearings is bolted onto an aluminum angle that is further attached to the blade guide.
We make a dolly cart out of 2 X 4 boards and some castors to place the big maple logs and move it effortlessly through the blades . The castors are screwed in the ends using quarter inch holes. The castors are fixed in such a way that it moves only in one direction back and forth.
This project goes over the conversion of an old three way refrigerator unit from an RV into an alternative power offgrid Dual refrigeration system that uses no electric power. This can be really useful in case of a power outage or SHTF situation when you need to keep your food or vegetables fresh.
The first step is to strip the fittings on the back side of the fridge , remove all the ammonia system ,clean the inside of it .
Here we are incorporating more than one way to use this water for cooling refrigeration system to make it efficient .We will be using cooling effect by brining down the water temperature to cool the box , another way to cool the box is by installing an evaporative system. We take the two pipes coming from the water source around the edges of the box and put some cotton sheets around the sides and let the water cascade down the sheet creating an evaporative effect.
We have an inverter and a battery attached to the fridge that is hooked up to a 25W solar panel .The wire from the inverter is connected to 8W Electric Fish tank pump .The water coming from the pump goes underneath and up inside to the lid of the fridge to the condenser coils and then comes back around back into the water source like well or water tank. The full system is recirculated back into the original storage tank where the water is coming from.
We keep the fridge in a chest freezer style instead of an upright style. Inside the fridge, we have incorporated 2 poly tubing coils attached to an old heat sink that was already in the fridge. The 100ft coils are attached to the top of the fridge. The cold from that coils will drop down to the rest of the fridge.
Next step is to incorporate the evaporative cooling part of the refrigeration system. We start by installing aluminum U channels across all the edges of the fridge. The U channel will hold cotton material inside of them. The water coming out of the outputs from our coils rushes into the channel which is going to wick out into the cloth and run down the cloth with gravity, giving us our evaporative cooling effect .
On the corners, we have the U channels interconnected to each other through a bent garden hose in such a way that any extra water flow in the channel can transfer to the the channel that is next.
The cotton sheets are stretched around the box and tuck it down into the channels all the way around under the wires such that the wires will hold the channels up and hold the sheet up inside the channel. To even the flow of the water ,we install a tee. Now the water coming from both sides of the channel can leak into the sheet. Also make sure you have an air gap between the sheet and the refrigerator box.
This project goes over the build an efficient clean burn multi use ammo can portable rocket stove . Easy to build , small ,portable , leaves no smoke. The reason it is smokeless is because it uses a secondary burn system . Also can be used as a cooking stove.
The first thing you need is an old NATO ammo can. Remove the rubber seal that sits around the top of the can and replace it with a stove rope. The stove rope gets compressed when you close the stove with its closing mechanism and the smoke wont escape from around there.
One the top, we have the flue made out of 2 inch stainless pipe .It has two sections, upper section slides onto the lower section. In order to build the flue, we take the top of the ammo can, then place the pipe on top and draw around it that gives the circumference. Take a grinder and simply cut across the shape.
In order to get a smoke tight seal, we wrap some stove rope around the flue area we just cut and then insert the pipe and use a jubilee clip around the bottom and compress it against the stove rope.
Once this gets up to working temperature, it draws cold air in from down below and expels it out at the top. So all the smoke from the stove gets drawn upwards.
We use 2 turnbuckles as a stove door closing mechanism. There are two closing mechanisms on this door. One is a quarter turn latch. So you rotate it, the door opens ,you close and then you rotate it and it locks the door closed. Another mechanism is using a long piece of metal. You can turn each of these a quarter turn and that locks the door extremely tight to fit these turnbuckles .
The stove baffle plate is made out of 0.8mm thick thin steel. To make it, measure it up against the stove and bent the steel into that shape. The baffle helps in generating more heat as it keeps the air from escaping the burn chamber.
A secondary pipe made of galvanized steel pipe comes from back of the stove and comes across the stove through a small hole. The pipe has been drilled with small holes. When the stove is in operation, this draws in cold air from outside, it gets pre-heated on the way down across the burn chamber. And then the pre-heated air rises and is expelled naturally through these holes.
And since this pipe is just under the baffle plate, it reignites the smoke and the smoke is burnt on the way across the upper section of the stove.
The stove is insulated using fibreglass and stainless steel from three sides inside, helps in efficient secondary burn. You just need enough insulation to get the temperature high enough to get secondary burn. If the whole stove is insulated then the heat would dissipate through the flue instead.
The bottom of the stove is insulated using half inch rockwool and on top we have some chicken wire that stops the burning fuel from sitting on the bottom of the stove and being starved of oxygen. It allows the oxygen to get underneath and burn all the way around the wood efficiently.
The primary air is drawn in through an air intake at the side of the stove. To attach it to the stove, bend the pipe around the side and place a jubilee clip and stove rope around to insulate it. So when the stove is in operation, you can add sticks, twigs, pellets or anything you want without opening the door.
This project goes over the build of a Homemade medium sized and moderately priced portable solar power generator that is designed to be powered by 100W Polycrystalline Solar Panel.
The case for this portable system is from Plano sportsman, quite sturdy and rugged that a typical container. Costs about $25 . It has a nice top with handles that latch it down.
On the back of the system, we have two pin SAE port that allows the energy from the solar panel to come into the system. It directly goes into a 30A solar charge controller. The negative from the charge controller is connected to the negative of the batteries. The positive is connected via a switch to positive of the battery. The negatives and positives of the batteries are connected to each other. The negative of the inverter is connected to the negative of the battery. The positive is connected to a battery switch off circuit that is further connected to battery positive through a switch. The USB ports,12V DC outlet, DC meter all are connected to the respective terminals of the batteries.
To connect to the AC outlet from the inverter, we take a 3 wire extension cord which can be bought from the local hardware store . The negative end of this wire is connected to the negative of the shallow box AC outlet and the positive is connected via an 15A inline fuse and a current transformer. The ammeter is connected to current transformer and the 110V outlet.
On the front of the system, we have the accessory ports including a 12V power indicator , 2 USB ports with 5V one amp and 5V 2.1amp, 12V outlet, AC Voltmeter and ammeter. Amp meter tells how many amps we drawing out of the system using various appliances. This can help us understand how much solar power is being generated during the day versus solar power being utilized from the system.
The whole system is turned on a 12V master key switch that activates inverter, case temperature sensor, cooling fans , AC power outlets. We install a key and power up the AC side of the system. There is two fans on the back that push air in and draw air out of the case to keep the AC DC inverter cool.
Inside we have a deck tray made from backboard material available at Home Depot. We have installed a 400W pure sine wave inverter, a 30A MPPT solar charge controller and a 12V emergency LED light on them, also has four vents that allow air to circulate through the top portion of the case as well as through the bottom. The vents keep the batteries cool and allow any off-gas build up from the batteries to pass it through.
Here the inverter has a built in automatic shutdown feature that ensures that the batteries are not discharged to a significant level. So it is safely connected to the batteries.
Once the deck tray is taken apart, we have 2 55AH AGM sealed batteries that are wired in parallel to a 2 AWG cables to transfer the power back and forth between the batteries. These type of batteries require less maintenance. Also installed a wooden frame with exact dimension of inside of the case to keep the batteries in place and keep them from moving around.
To protect all the components we have fuses ranging from ANL 50amp fuses between the inverter and the battery , inline 30amp fuse between the solar charge controller and the batteries.
To attach jumper cables we have an option for external heavy duty battery terminals. To connect to an AC float charger we have added a SAE 2 pin port.
This project goes over the build of a Homemade rope making machine using a simple cordless power drill and some inexpensive materials that are sourced from the local hardware store. Here are the materials needed for this project:
Three quarter inch by five inch eye bolts with hex nuts
Plastic Castor Wheels
two by two and one by six by six piece of lumber
Old bicycle tire tubes
Take the board and cut it to length of seven and a half inches and took the first piece and doubled it over the second one and cut them together so that they are exactly the same length. Then I took a piece of two by two and cut it eight and a half inches long.
Take large fender washers and position them on the board forming a triangle, you want to do it in such a way so when you add your two by two to the top as well as the bottom, it has similar spacing at the top and the bottom. Put the two boards together, mark the centers and drill the holes.
Next step is to build the metal spinning hooks. These spinning hooks are going to be made out of eyebolts which is used as a hook to put the strings on. We take 3 plastic castor wheels and use them as a pulley , connect them together with a small piece of bicycle tire tube so that when one is spun ,all three of them would spin together.
We take the 3 eyebolts and push it through the hole and secure them tight with a small cut washer and hex nut. It is locked in place but should spin freely. Put with wheels through the bolts and secure them using fender washers, cut washers and nuts.
Take an old used tire tube piece and line it up between the two washers and cut up a piece that is roughly about the same distance as that gap. We loop the tube over the pulley all at once.The Second board is pushed through the bolts over the wheel pulleys.Make sure everything is lined up symmetrically. When we turn one bolt, the belt drives the other two pulleys and they all spin together.
As we are running the hook spinner, we are going to need something to hold it at the other end, To make the other end of the mechanism that holds the strings in place, we take six inch piece of common board and eight and a half inches of our two by twos on the bottom to secure it as a base and them we clamp it over a table.
The idea is that as each hook begins to spin, the two cords attached to it will intertwine with each other. And then eventually all three of those cords will mesh together to make a nice three stranded rope.
As the strands are twisted, it creates tension on the backboard. To relieve the tension, we drill a hole through the backboard and tie the rope to another counterweight rope through a swivel hook that pulls the tension and allows it to rise as the cord is pulled.
We also make a rope makers top that will help guide those strands into the beautiful three strand cord. We add two ropes between the spinner mechanism as guidelines and connect it to the back board to accommodate the rope makers top. The idea is that as the tension builds it will glide forward and guide the individual strands into place to form a three stranded rope.
We sandpaper the holes on the rope makers top to make it smoother so that the lines won’t snag up when they start twisting. We put a wooden knob on the back to reduce the friction so that the rope makers top can slide smoothly.
Loop the cords through each of the three hooks on our rope maker machine .Form a slipknot and connect it to the swivel hook. We have our rope machine build complete .
To tie and cut of the rope, take a small piece of electrical tape and wrap it around the end where you want to cut it off. Cut The Rope at the back just where the electrical tape ends .
This project goes over the build of simple and cheap homemade Air Cooler made out of an old juice carton and other simple items which can be bought from Home Depot. The whole setup is powered by solar energy .
The cost to build this AC Cooler is only $8.50 The drink bottle was a dollar at the store. The PVC pipe about $1.50, the DC Fan was $4.99 and the square dowels was 98 cents.
The materials you need for this project are :
1/2 gallon container
3/8 inch square wooden dowel
1 1/2 inch PVC pipe coupler threaded on one end
80mm case fan
Take the 80mm fan and put it down on the side of the container. Cut the three eighth inch square dowel and cut them the width of the container. Glue the fan on to the dowels on both the sides and the middle ones.
Take a pencil and mark around in a circle on the inside and using a small knife , cut out the circle from the carton.
Place the PVC coupler against the container and mark a small circle around it and cut along it. Widen the hole using a sandpaper such that the pipe fits in there properly.
Take out the fan and grab some pieces of ice cubes and put them into the carton through the hole and put the fan back on.
The fan is hooked to a solar panel. The fan has only 100 milliamps 12V power.
The opening of the juice carton can be used as drain pipe which be used to drain out the water as needed. Don’t waste the water. Just drink it, put a glass under there. Now you can get a nice cold drink of water after a couple hours.
This project goes over the build of Double Barrel Stove out of two old scrap water heaters for the shop.
The first step is to disassemble both the old electric hot water heaters to get their tanks out.
Take a grinder and cut a section off from the top of the water heater tank. This tank will become the bottom tank. Remove any calcium and mineral that ends up developing deposits inside the bottom of the tank.
Take a 12 gauge plate steel and put our top drum upside down and scribe a circle out of them from the end and cut it. Weld the steel piece onto the drum. You need to do the same for the other drum too because with these double barrels, you are basically making two stoves, just connecting them in the middle.
Now both the top tank and bottom tank ends have been polished and cleaned .Remove any insulations, paints and glues from them if they have any. Make sure all the rough pieces on the tank are welded on ground down.
Cut a small piece of pipe that acts as stack between the 2 tank.
Next step is to add a small support bracket on the top of the bottom tank that will help support the top tank.
Cut a hole on the bottom tank .This will be where the stack goes between two of them. Fill the drain plug down at the bottom .
Take the top tank, cut and weld the top exhaust stack that will be six inch outlet for the smoke.
We also add a six inch inlet that goes up to the top that forces your your smoke and the gas has to go across the length of the barrel. The bottom barrel will be connected to this.
Both barrels are welded together, the bottom barrel is welded onto the mid stack which connects the top barrel with the exhaust stack. In order to support the barrels, we take the scrap pipes lying around and make legs as a support structure for the stove.
Next is the door fabrication. We cut a hole for the door in the bottom barrel. A couple of hinges, door catch are welded on to this end. An air inlet pipe is threaded onto a plate. The whole unit is then attached to the door. A handle is attached to the inlet pipe so you can open and close whenever you want to control the flow of the air intake.
This project goes over the build of a Homemade Copper Pipe Solar Thermal Water heater which can produce super hot water fast .This reaches temperature at or above 150F with air temperature from high 40’s to low 50’s.
Here are the materials needed for this project are :
Two 10 foot half inch copper pipes – Type L
16 half inch 90 degree elbows
18 tube straps
23 X 35 half inch plywood for the back
18 X 20 half inch plywood for the pipe support
2 X 2 lumber at 20 and 35″ for the sides
4 and 3/8 inch square dowel rods for the glass support
1/2 inch threaded pipe adapter
3/4″ to 1/2″ garden hose PVC adapter
1/2 inch coupler.
The first step is to cut down a bunch of two foot sections out of the 10 foot sections using a copper cutter. We cut 7 of them and 2 more for the top and bottom which are 30 inches each.
Next we cut 8 sections of 1 1/8″ for the connecter pieces between elbow joints. This allows the pipe to be spaced exactly two inches apart on the board evenly all the way up and down
Connect the pipes using couple of elbows and a 2 inch connecter piece and solder them .Do it for the rest of the pipes.
Slide the pipes into the plywood frame collector and fasten them onto it using 3/8 inch screws to be more secure. A small internal board is placed onto this frame which helps the pipe to lay flat inside .Also it holds the pipe at right height so that it exits through the right holes. It allows for the pipe to be easily removed from the collector frame.
Cut the wooden dowel rods and put inside the collector to support the glass. Sand them a little bit so that the copper pipe will fit back through.
A straight coupler is welded on to the end of outlet then you can add any pipe or connecter or wherever you want the water to go.
The inner board is secured to the back board using some three quarter inch screws. The 4 corners of the 2 X 2 wood frame is secured using 2 and half inch wood screws and the corners of the back board is secured by one and one half inch screws.
A 20 X 32 inch glass is placed on the frame with the help of some silicone caulk around the edge. The highest piece of copper in there is eighth of an inch away from the glass and its painted black.