Cool DIY Video : How to build an Underground Survival Shelter from an Old Shipping Container -Step by step Video Instructions



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      This project goes over the conversion of an old three way refrigerator unit from an RV into an alternative power offgrid Dual refrigeration system that uses no electric power. This can be really useful in case of a power outage or SHTF situation when you need to keep your food or vegetables fresh. The first step is to strip the fittings on the back side of the fridge , remove all the ammonia system ,clean the inside of it . Here we are incorporating more than one way to use this water for cooling refrigeration system to make it efficient .We will be using cooling effect by brining down the water temperature to cool the box , another way to cool the box is by installing an evaporative system. We take the two pipes coming from the water source around the edges of the box and put some cotton sheets around the sides and let the water cascade down the sheet creating an evaporative effect. We have an inverter and a battery attached to the fridge that is hooked up to a 25W solar panel .The wire from the inverter is connected to 8W Electric Fish tank pump .The water coming from the pump goes underneath and up inside to the lid of the fridge to the condenser coils and then comes back around back into the water source like well or water tank. The full system is recirculated back into the original storage tank where the water is coming from. We keep the fridge in a chest freezer style instead of an upright style. Inside the fridge, we have incorporated 2 poly tubing coils attached to an old heat sink that was already in the fridge. The 100ft coils are attached to the top of the fridge. The cold from that coils will drop down to the rest of the fridge. Next step is to incorporate the evaporative cooling part of the refrigeration system. We start by installing aluminum U channels across all the edges of the fridge. The U channel will hold cotton material inside of them. The water coming out of the outputs from our coils rushes into the channel which is going to wick out into the cloth and run down the cloth with gravity, giving us our evaporative cooling effect . On the corners, we have the U channels interconnected to each other through a bent garden hose in such a way that any extra water flow in the channel can transfer to the the channel that is next. The cotton sheets are stretched around the box and tuck it down into the channels all the way around under the wires such that the wires will hold the channels up and hold the sheet up inside the channel. To even the flow of the water ,we install a tee. Now the water coming from both sides of the channel can leak into the sheet. Also make sure you have an air gap between the sheet and the refrigerator box. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mHspLgLWJug
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    • How to build a Large 2000W Portable Solar Power Generator at Home from scratch.
      The idea of a completely silent power generator that can still run large power loads, and never need gasoline is a really cool concept. This project goes over the build of a large 2000W Portable Solar Generator that can power appliances ranging from a table saw to charging your phone effortlessly. We need a large box to hold our basic components. Here we use a pelican 1620 protector case that is durable, dustproof and waterproof .This is going to be the case that we package everything into. It's got wheels on the bottom so you can roll it around ,also has heavy handles on either sides. The battery is a AGM glass mat ,coil would style, 12V optima deep cycle battery. A deep cycle battery just allows you to get a little bit deeper into the discharge before you are starting to shorten the life of that battery. This battery also has the ability to be mounted in any orientation . So it is safe whether the battery is on its side on its back or even upside down as long as we have it mounted securely so that nothing shorts against our terminals. The next major components for our build is the 2000W inverter from Krieger. This one has some large terminals on the back for our wiring. Also has a active fan here for ventilation. Also comes with a remote control switch. The 100W Solar Panel is from Renogy. It has the bus on the back for connecting in to your solar charger .It also comes with a 30A Solar Charge controller. This can run up to four of the 100 watt panels in a 12 volt system. The back of the solar panel comes pre wired with MC4 connectors, as well as a couple of MC4 pigtails. We use high quality 16 gauge speaker wire to extend the connection. These wires are highly flexible for portable use. To connect it to the MC4 pigtails we need to go ahead and strip the insulation off and use butt splice connectors to crimp them to the MC4 pigtails. In case you cant to charge the system with standard AC power ,we use a 1.5A Battery maintainer / Float or Trickle charger. This will be good for just keeping it topped off when it is in storage. Or if you just want to charge up your batteries and you really don't have a place to be setting the panels out. Next step is mounting components on the outside of the case . Before mounting any component, factor in how the internal components are going to placed inside the case. On one side of the case ,we are going to mount a small LED work lamp with toggle switch, a 12V gauge pod with 5V USB output, digital voltmeter,12V cigarette socket ,an AC input plug for using with the trickle charger, a 6pin solar panel trailer connector. These components are secured in place using a RTV silicone sealant. One the other side of the case , we are going to mount the inverter remote control switch, 350A high current plug which is used for jumper cables or to add high current loads, a GFCI AC outlet with a weatherproof cover. The GFCI outlet is connected to the inverter inside the case. We want to put the battery as close to the wheels as possible, because that will help keep the heaviest part down low when moving the case around either on the wheels or by carrying it. We place it snug into a corner of the case using battery mount and couple of pieces of 2X4. The inverter is placed inside the case in such a way that there is enough space for air ventilation and for tucking some of the wires underneath. The inverters are secured in place using mounting tabs and 10x24 machine screws. The PWM solar charge controller is also mounted in the same way near the solar panel connector input. The trickle charger / battery maintainer is placed as low into the back of the case .This is not something that will get very warm so we don't need to worry about heat dissipation or anything like that . We plug the power cord from the trickle charger into the AC input cord. Next step is the wiring. We start by connecting the power cables from the inverter to the battery. The positive and negative from the inverter is connected to the positive and negative of the battery respectively. To distribute power in our generator ,we use a six circuit fuse panel for the positives and a busbar for the grounds. We use two inexpensive battery cables to run the power to our distribution blocks as well as running the power to our high current quick connector. The positive red connection from the quick connector goes to the fuse panel and the black negative connector to the ground busbar. Both connections are further extended to connect to the positives and negatives of the battery respectively. The LED lights are connected to the 3 way connector switches. The switches are further connected to the power distribution fuse block. Similarly a single switch is connected to the USB outlet, voltmeter and the cigarette lighter ports in parallel. The positive from the switch is connected through a daisy chain mechanism to the three positives of the ports ,the negatives are similarly connected to our distribution block. At this point, we now have a power wire and a ground wire for every single one of our accessories connections . We bundle these wires and keep it neat and tidy using zip ties. Separate the positive wires from the negative wires, we are going to be rounding the negative wires to our ground busbar. After we have all of the ground wires connected, we can move on to the power wires on our distribution block. Each one of the blade connectors represents one fuse circuit. We connect the positive red wires from charge controller, battery trickle charger, usb ports,voltmeter,12V outlet to the fuse circuit. We are using a 30A fuse for the charge controller,12V socket, 20A for the LED work lights, 5A for the trickle charger. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLIorqrLdxMKZV464fFUflegLuuvLEyMrU