This video shows the build of a super bright 100W LED flashlight in PVC pipe housing.Main parts bought from ebay. The battery of this flashlight came from 18650 lithium cells removed from dead laptop batteries.The other materials required for this build are 100W LED COB chip,100W LED Reflector, lens, lens bracket kit,DC to DC boost converter 250W,DC to DC step down (buck) converter.Some parts bought at local electronics or hardware store.Rest all stuff had lying around.The other video shows the build of the 22V 6Ah battery pack from dead laptop batteries.
- DIY Video :How to build your own Homemade Lumber Mill from Scratch .This projects goes over the build of a cheap homemade lumber mill using materials around your home This mill has a 12 inch saw blade purchased from Home Depot that cab do cross cuts, or it can do longitudinal rip cut.I am gonna be cutting the long direction on the word. First step is building the rollers. Four rollers are made out scrap materials lying around. The wheels are made of polycarbonate material .These are adjusted on a drill to ensure that they roll smoothly on the pipes. Next step is the build the tracks.Here I use 2 old steel pipes and welded to make a long one. 3 more pipes are welded on top of those 2 long pipes horizontally to give stability. Make sure the pipes are all lined up . 2 rolling carts are made from the leftover pipes tha slides across the pipes.Make sure these are parallel to each other.4 sliding pipes are bolted on these carts. 4 pieces of pipes are welded on top of these rolling pipes that are paralled to the horizontal pipes below .They act as a crank that can pull the sliding pipes. Threaded holes are put along the pipe that connects the sliding pipes.2 cables are connected in opposite ways to a small spring pulley system that can help sliding pipes move vertically up and down when the top crank is rotated. The Saw Blade is attached to a steel rod.The blade is attached to a washer on the other side to ensure it doesn't fly off. The axle is passed through a square metal box which is bolted using a bearing on both sides. The motors attaches to the top of the box mount .A pulley is then attached to the metal rod from the motor using a small wheel. The next step is to take whole side assembly thing attach it to the cart so it can pivot. Ball bearings are attached to the box on both sides.This must be placed at a very specific distance away from the blade. So that when I flip it the the edge of the blade will line up so it cuts clean without cutting deeper into the wood and without not cutting far enough and leaving it still attached.When its swiveled it will pivot the blade perfectly. Next step is make take the whole motor and blade assembly and attach it to our rails so that it can slide and rotate . We attached 2 pieces on both sides of the motor blade assembly to ensure that the system stays perfectly straight while cutting horizontal or vertical. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KtL7LoFeTyg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=txUgR7kYpgI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LUxo36NebVA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IOEHT1UrbKM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=deblj68KZug https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Axo2w5_qHd8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_uhvSBLY0Xc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5sPu_TcUtyU
- How to Dig a Shallow Well from Start to Finish for offgrid homesteadingThis project goes over how you can dig your own shallow well using simple tools that you can get from your local garden store. The materials you need to dig and install a well are as follows. A customized Seymour AUA2 Post Auger to dig the hole. A Shovel is used to move the pea gravel and dirt out of the way. A Four inch casing PVC pipe that is going into the hole that is dug and this is going to hold the water until you need it. One and one fourth inch threaded adapter. This connects the bottom of the casing pipe to the foot valve. The foot valve is one and one quarter inch. This valve allows the water to come in and not go out. This helps to keep the pump primed. A water well pump pipe which is basically a one and one quarter inch PVC pipe. This will pull the water from the bottom of the well bringing it to your pump. The length of this pipe is going to be determined by how deep your well is. It should be at least a foot shorter than the depth of your well. You don't want this pipe sitting on the bottom because it would just be sitting in sediment and it will be clogging things up. A pitcher pump that has a one and one quarter inch threaded water inlet at the bottom. A closet flange. It makes mounting the pump to the top of your well four inch casing pipe very easy and it also helps keep things clean. Basically you would just set this inside you your four inch pipe, drill a hole out of the middle of a board, screw that to the top of this flange then mount your pump to the board that you have fastened to this. A one and one quarter inch threaded adapter. This will screw into the bottom of your pitcher pump and in turn, it will connect to the pipe bringing water to your pump from the bottom of the well. Teflon tape, PVC glue. Pea gravel - This will go down around the casing pipe of the well. The amount of pea gravel you need is determined by the depth of the well and water height. Quikcrete or aerated concrete to cap the top of the well. This prevents groundwater contamination and keeps stuff from finding a way to easily get into your well. To find the spot for the well, we use couple of coat hangers as dowsing roads. We take a drinking straw ,cut it in half and slide it over the coat hangers. This helps us in not using our hands or fingers influence while dowsing. Also it is easy to rotate the rods within the straws. The rods are kept parallel to the ground . If the rods cross each other , then mark the spot on the ground directly down the cross . This is the ideal spot for the well. The auger used for digging the hole for the well is modified from the default Seymour Post hole auger. We use a custom 5 foot 11 gauge one and half inch square tubing as the extension for the auger . The handle of the auger is a three foot three quarter inch pipe welded to a four inch 11 gauge square tubing. We start digging into the the spot that we have found earlier using the dowsing rods. Pay attention to the changes in the color of sand , because that can give you clues as whether you are getting closer to water. We extend the auger using the square bar tube once the auger handle is near the ground. Once you have hit wet clay, there is going to be suction around. We twist and pull at the same time to get the auger out of the hole in this situation. Next, we put the 20 foot PVC casing pipe into the hole . We cut slots using a reciprocating saw on the pipe one foot from the bottom of the well to the top of the water level to allow the water to flow into the well. Pea gravel is poured around the sides of the pipe all the way up to the slots . The remaining hole area around the pipe is packed with sand and clay. We seal the well by packing it around the sides with quickrete cement. This helps the water not to be able to run down into your well but around it. We lower the one and one quarter inch well pump pipe with the foot valve at the end into the PVC casing pipe. A four inch drain flange is secured on top of the casing pipe . A pitcher pump is then attached to top of the pipe. To prevent the pump from moving, it is bolted to the board where the flange is installed. To prime the well, we pour some water down through the pitcher pump. Pump out the dirty water until it is clean. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5rYPRMm8Arw
- DIY Video : How to heat your garage the Inexpensive way by building an Outdoor Stove with Heat ExchangerThis project goes over the build of an inexpensive garage heater using DIY outdoor barrel stove with a heat exchanger. This outdoor setup is safe because you dont want the stove inside the garage to catch fire if you are working with any flammable gas. We use a 30 gallon drum for the stove. The access doors and legs are purchased from the local store. The heater exchanger is made out of four inch steel pipe .We take couple of 4 foot pipe and weld them together using another small pipe. This pipe goes inside the firebox and connects to the chimney pipes. The pipe should be thick enough that it can withstand the heat of the fire without sagging or bending. This pipe heat exchanger adds positive pressure . Removable hatches are made on one side of the stoves to connect the 2 four inch aluminum flex chimney pipes from the outside barrel to the garage. Inside the garage we place a 4 inch exhaust fan blower that sucks the colder air from the floor and blows it through one of the flex chimney pipe into the stove. The blower is actually a hydroponics duct exhaust fan purchased from Ebay. The cold air gets pushed into the stove and moves through the heat exchanger steel pipe , gets heated and then moves out through the second chimney flex pipe and back into the garage. The hot air from the stove moves into the garage through the second pipe. In order to get more hot air, we also add a drip fed waste oil system to the outdoor stove . The oil gets dripped slowly from a tank into a frying pan on top of the stove .You can add cotton rags and let it drip into there and it just keeps burning like a wick. The combination of both wood and waste oil produce better fire . If the stove gets too hot, you can turn of the oil or use oil only to maintaining the temperature. You can put an insulated shack around the stove to minimize the heat loss. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fn4CerxpNug