This video shows the complete build of a Portable Rocket Mass Heater. This heater goes together like an erector set and comes apart just as easily. It’s custom mini mass. This heater can save you up to 80% on your heating bills. It is super efficient. This heater is beautiful and built completely from reclaimed and repurposed items. This rocket mass heater is Artistic one of a kind! This rocket mass heater is made with air crete, and is budget friendly, handmade, and better than a wood stove.The advantage of this rocket mass heater is the huge increase in the efficiency of capturing and storing the available heat.
- How to build a Simple Homemade Wind Generator from Old Ceiling Fan ,Microwave Oven Parts ,Old TV Antenna and other free junkThis project goes over the build of a homemade wind generator built from random junk ceiling fan ,microwave oven transformer ,office chair, an old piece of a TV tower, and some random electrical stuff. The blades are also from an old ceiling fan .It is extended with some wood and fibreglass on it to make it stronger. A scrap piece of pipe is attached as a shaft to the hub of the turbine. An office chair frame which can move freely is welded to the pole/post of the turbine. This is welded to an old TV Tower. 4 magnets are glued on the hub. The frame of an old microwave oven transformer is cut .Its core is exposed and that is welded onto the brackets. The magnets pass over the transformer core and induction takes place creating electric current. We can use that current to charge a battery or to power lights or whatever. A multi transformer setup would generate more power. We hook up a rectifying diode to convert from AC to DC and some capacitors which can even out the voltage and give us direct current. Also a diode to block the current from the battery to go up back up to the generator. This set up can charge small batteries. A piece of sheet metal is welded onto the bracket of the ceiling fan. Four magnets are spaced apart and aligned along their respective poles in north-south directions and glued to the bracket using 2 part epoxy. To generate more wattage from the wind generator ,we use an old 120V DC lawnmower motor. Because we have multiple poles, we have magnets that are really close to the armature, this is a way better motor to use. The only downfall of this is that it has brushes, eventually it's the brushes are going to wear out, you probably get a few years out of it before you need to replace those. This motor would probably put out about 100 watts. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1k8aHz6xlXg
- How to Heat your Home or Garage for Free by building Solar Air Heating Collectors that uses no electricity or batteriesSolar heat collectors are a good supplemental heating source that can provide homeowners with free heat for their home when the sun is shining. Solar collectors are a box like structure that capture the energy from the sun and convert it into usable energy for heating purposes. Inside the collector solar energy is simply converted into usable thermal energy. On the front side of the solar collectors . a clear panel or glazing material typically polycarbonate sheeting, single pane glass ,double pane glass face towards the sun and allow the sunlight into the collector box. On the inside of the collector box is a heat exchanger or a absorber. The heat exchanger or absorber is responsible for transferring the heat of the sun into a usable thermal heat source. The heat exchanger is suspended or attached inside the collector box and should be coated flat black with a high heat temperature resistant paint. The flat black paint helps to absorb the heat energy from the sun. It is very important to utilize a flat finish black paint inside the collector box. If the paint has a reflective coating, it will reflect the sun back outside of the collector, which results in lost potential energy. It assists with the entrapment of that heat energy rather than reflecting it away from the collector. Once the sunlight has penetrated the collector box through the glazing, the heat exchanger material and the flat black paint will absorb that heat and begin to warm the air inside the collector. As the air inside the collector and around the absorber warms, it will expand and rise. The expansion of warm air will naturally create a convection current. As the air inside the collector rises, it will continue to pick up heat through friction with the absorber. The air passing over and through the absorber is given more opportunity to gain heat by rubbing against that surface which is being heated by the sun. Now that the air is warm and picking up heat and needs a way to move through the collector box, we install two vents on the backside of the solar collector facing towards the room or space that we want to heat. Through the vent at the top of the collector, the heated air moves into the home , the vent at the bottom allows the cooler air to return back to the the collector. Having a return event at the bottom and a supplier event at the top of the solar collector allows natural convection process. The air inside the collector is picking up heat from the absorber and is naturally wanting to rise up and out of the collector. A natural force of air rising will induce a convection current, which will pull cooler return air from the room or condition space into the bottom of the collector box. The collector creates a convection current inside the room .It removes cooler dense air from the bottom of the room and takes it through the collector where it is warm, and then exhausts the heated air out of the supply duct back into the room. This project goes over the build of an entirely self contained Solar Air Heater using no grid power whatsoever. The unit draws the cold air from the room and exhausts hot air into the room using a 2 5V DC brushless 7 vane case fans. This fans are powered by a 16 Watt Amorphous solar panel. Both the intake and exhaust pipes ore of 5 inch diameter. 9 rows of 17 soda pop cans , a total of 153 355ml soda cans are used for the collector. The aluminum pop cans are painted with a flat black paint to ensure all sunlight is absorbed and not reflected. Also there is a five inch intake and exhaust manifold at the bottom and top of the unit. This ensures that all air travels through the interior of the aluminum cans. To maximize the heat transfer from the sun to air within a given space, we need to build a better heat exchanger. Solar air heating systems use air as the working fluid for absorbing and transferring solar energy. Transferring heat from one place to another by definition is a heat exchanger. When the sun heats the metal, the hot metal heats the air circulating over the metal of the heat exchanger. The job is to capture radiation from the sun and transfer this thermal energy to air via conduction heat transfer. Heat transfer output depends on the rise in temperature and the airflow. In order to minimize heat loss through the plexiglass , we keep the absorber temperature as low as usually possible. The cooler the absorber runs, the less heat will be lost out of the glass. A way to keep the absorber cooler while extracting the same amount of energy from the sun is to increase the airflow. To improve conduction heat transfer without significantly reducing airflow , we disturb the airflow within the solar air tubes . Four holes are put in some of the soda cans to create a baffle that increase the turbulence .These baffle cans are placed evenly across the tubes to distribute the airflow. We place the first baffle cans on the second row from the bottom with the intention of disturbing the airflow early. The second baffle will be located in the 10th can . In order to stack the empty cans, we make an assembly tray "V" shaped support structure using leftover baseboard. The cans are glued together using PL Premium construction adhesive that is water resistant, non shrinking and paintable. The soda cans are positioned on the loading tray and slowly rotated to evenly distribute the construction adhesive. The "V" channel made from baseboards holds the cans perfectly straight. The box for the Solar air heater is made of 5052 aluminum alloy sheets. The dimension of the box are 91 inches tall and 24 inches wide. We use a one inch flange and a metal bending brake to bend the aluminum to make the sides of the box. The top and bottom caps are bend to fit on the top and bottom of the box . When manufacturing the bottom caps, the distance between the bends is decreased by one millimeter to allow the caps to fit inside the solar air box to facilitate drainage. Next step is securing the aluminum box top and bottom .The procedure involves using a smaller diameter drill bit as a pilot and then drilling to final size for the rivet only after the two pieces are mated together. The pieces being held together via cleco fasteners. The function of the cleco is to temporarily hold material in the exact position during the manufacturing process. Two five inches holes are cut at both top and bottom on the box to install the plenums. The intake and the exhaust pipes for the two solar air heaters are manufactured from a single piece of five inch HVAC plenum. These are inserted and secured into the holes using construction adhesive. The back of the box is insulated using two sheets of half inch foam sheet. One sheet of half inch foam is installed on the sides. A pneumatic air file is used to cut the sheets. We install a snap action thermostat in the interior of the exhaust manifold, constantly monitoring the temperature of the air being brought into the dwelling. The intake and exhaust manifolds need to ensure that all air travel through the interior of the cans therefore it is important to have a good seal to each can. This also means that the manifold itself needs to seal well against the interior of the heat box. Nine holes are cut on a two sheets of half inch plywood to make the intake and the exhaust manifolds. These manifolds are secured in place against the cans using PL construction adhesives. The solar air tubes are held tight inside the box using two 1/16th half inch 6063 aluminum extrudes. These lightly applying pressure on the cans holding them firmly against the back of the heat chamber. Three separate coats of high heat black rest-o-leum paint are applied to the box , all within 60 minutes of each other. Clear silicon adhesive will be the primary method of adhering the Plexiglas to the solar air heater. After precisely positioning the glass on top of the heat chamber, I used a 1/8 inch pilot drill to go through the plexiglass. One full tube of silicone is used around the perimeter prior to laying the glass down. We install 2 16 Watt Sailflo Duct Exhaust fans with a capacity of moving 141 CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) for air . These are powered by a small solar panel. One blowing air into the chamber and one sucking air out. This helps to overcome the additional internal airflow resistance built into the design. The completed solar air collector is installed outside facing south to maximize the exposure to the sun. Once the solar air collector is installed outside , we take the temperature rise between the incoming and outgoing air while moving 141 cubic feet of air per minute from the fans . The calculate the amount of heat transfer we multiply the CFM and Temperature rise with a factor of 1.08. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL6YanwREcLx7h747VhKjJLClqvBmy5cF5
- How to make a Survival Rope Making Machine at home from easily available materialsThis project goes over the build of a Homemade rope making machine using a simple cordless power drill and some inexpensive materials that are sourced from the local hardware store. Here are the materials needed for this project: Three quarter inch by five inch eye bolts with hex nuts Fender Washers Cut Washers Hex Nuts Plastic Castor Wheels two by two and one by six by six piece of lumber Old bicycle tire tubes Take the board and cut it to length of seven and a half inches and took the first piece and doubled it over the second one and cut them together so that they are exactly the same length. Then I took a piece of two by two and cut it eight and a half inches long. Take large fender washers and position them on the board forming a triangle, you want to do it in such a way so when you add your two by two to the top as well as the bottom, it has similar spacing at the top and the bottom. Put the two boards together, mark the centers and drill the holes. Next step is to build the metal spinning hooks. These spinning hooks are going to be made out of eyebolts which is used as a hook to put the strings on. We take 3 plastic castor wheels and use them as a pulley , connect them together with a small piece of bicycle tire tube so that when one is spun ,all three of them would spin together. We take the 3 eyebolts and push it through the hole and secure them tight with a small cut washer and hex nut. It is locked in place but should spin freely. Put with wheels through the bolts and secure them using fender washers, cut washers and nuts. Take an old used tire tube piece and line it up between the two washers and cut up a piece that is roughly about the same distance as that gap. We loop the tube over the pulley all at once.The Second board is pushed through the bolts over the wheel pulleys.Make sure everything is lined up symmetrically. When we turn one bolt, the belt drives the other two pulleys and they all spin together. As we are running the hook spinner, we are going to need something to hold it at the other end, To make the other end of the mechanism that holds the strings in place, we take six inch piece of common board and eight and a half inches of our two by twos on the bottom to secure it as a base and them we clamp it over a table. The idea is that as each hook begins to spin, the two cords attached to it will intertwine with each other. And then eventually all three of those cords will mesh together to make a nice three stranded rope. As the strands are twisted, it creates tension on the backboard. To relieve the tension, we drill a hole through the backboard and tie the rope to another counterweight rope through a swivel hook that pulls the tension and allows it to rise as the cord is pulled. We also make a rope makers top that will help guide those strands into the beautiful three strand cord. We add two ropes between the spinner mechanism as guidelines and connect it to the back board to accommodate the rope makers top. The idea is that as the tension builds it will glide forward and guide the individual strands into place to form a three stranded rope. We sandpaper the holes on the rope makers top to make it smoother so that the lines won't snag up when they start twisting. We put a wooden knob on the back to reduce the friction so that the rope makers top can slide smoothly. Loop the cords through each of the three hooks on our rope maker machine .Form a slipknot and connect it to the swivel hook. We have our rope machine build complete . To tie and cut of the rope, take a small piece of electrical tape and wrap it around the end where you want to cut it off. Cut The Rope at the back just where the electrical tape ends . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ddenqErLL0Q https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uEvM6ue3L7E https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RM9GY-n6PEA