This tutorial goes over the basic overview of a 24×24 , two 9 foot door,one side door window garage.First of all,you will need to take permission from the building inspector.The inspector makes sure that you are within zoning requirements.You will need the paperwork ,plot plan when you go to the building inspector and those are available from your assessor’s office or the town hall or you may have one with your deed.Started with a bucket loader come in, take out some trees level off the area remove blushes and prep for the concrete work.
The first step is to dig down and install the footings where the wall is kind of set.Here I have a four foot wall put in with the floating floor.
Wall of the foundation is about six inches high, it goes into the ground four foot.And one reason that I wanted the wall foundation versus a flat pad foundation is because of the bug issues.
After the footings are dry in a few days,the walls are put up and I have the openings for the two nine foot doors and a side door.
After they dry for a few days,the floor screen is laid .This is a standard 4 inch thick flooring.
Floating floor means that in reality, if the ground swells during the winter time, the floor can actually rise up and sink down. But it prevents it from cracking because it does have a little give to it. So it’s not actually connected to this wall. It’s poured right up against it, but the floor is a separate piece by itself.
When the walls are poured every four foot they have a half inch threaded rod that’s embedded into the concrete while it’s still wet, it goes down about maybe a foot and a half has an L shape on the bottom in the rod will stick up directly in the center of the 2 X 4.
2 inlets for underground wiring,a 50 and 130 amp circuit.Its buried four foot down through the PVC.
The walls are standard 2 X 4, a double sill plate and a top plate those are the two that run horizontally. I use pressure treated against the concrete which will take care of the bug issues.
The headers for the garage door is standrd 2X10,double up half inch plywood in the center.
The plywood on the three sides and trusses are put up.The trusses are put upside down and they are flipped up.But once they’re up there I marked the top sills where I wanted them nailed them and put braces across the top,measure and straighten them out.
The first truss on the end of the building on both ends is called the gable end. It’s a little different than the other main trusses.The trusses are 24 inch on center, which means that they’re spaced 24 inches apart,unlike the walls which are 16.
The roof and the sides are on half inch plywood.I also run some stringers down the center and off to the sides to help so they won’t twist during a snowstorm.One thing that’s very important is when you put up the plywood the very first piece that you put on is the most important piece of wood that you’re going to put on this garage because everything references off that one piece.It has to be square to the gable end .
When the first piece of plywood is put up, you install the plywood ties between the trusses and all that does is if the roof gets moisture from inside the garage,it will tend to flex.The ties help in keeping them nice and flat and avoid the bowing.
The truss catwalk goes right down the center that stabilizes the horizontal bottom piece of the truss.
The doors are framed and roof is made of standard architectural shingles.These shingles have more lifespan.Also added tarpaper on the roof.The wiring is through down the center of the catwalk.
The finished garage and the build videos
- How to make a Survival Rope Making Machine at home from easily available materialsThis project goes over the build of a Homemade rope making machine using a simple cordless power drill and some inexpensive materials that are sourced from the local hardware store. Here are the materials needed for this project: Three quarter inch by five inch eye bolts with hex nuts Fender Washers Cut Washers Hex Nuts Plastic Castor Wheels two by two and one by six by six piece of lumber Old bicycle tire tubes Take the board and cut it to length of seven and a half inches and took the first piece and doubled it over the second one and cut them together so that they are exactly the same length. Then I took a piece of two by two and cut it eight and a half inches long. Take large fender washers and position them on the board forming a triangle, you want to do it in such a way so when you add your two by two to the top as well as the bottom, it has similar spacing at the top and the bottom. Put the two boards together, mark the centers and drill the holes. Next step is to build the metal spinning hooks. These spinning hooks are going to be made out of eyebolts which is used as a hook to put the strings on. We take 3 plastic castor wheels and use them as a pulley , connect them together with a small piece of bicycle tire tube so that when one is spun ,all three of them would spin together. We take the 3 eyebolts and push it through the hole and secure them tight with a small cut washer and hex nut. It is locked in place but should spin freely. Put with wheels through the bolts and secure them using fender washers, cut washers and nuts. Take an old used tire tube piece and line it up between the two washers and cut up a piece that is roughly about the same distance as that gap. We loop the tube over the pulley all at once.The Second board is pushed through the bolts over the wheel pulleys.Make sure everything is lined up symmetrically. When we turn one bolt, the belt drives the other two pulleys and they all spin together. As we are running the hook spinner, we are going to need something to hold it at the other end, To make the other end of the mechanism that holds the strings in place, we take six inch piece of common board and eight and a half inches of our two by twos on the bottom to secure it as a base and them we clamp it over a table. The idea is that as each hook begins to spin, the two cords attached to it will intertwine with each other. And then eventually all three of those cords will mesh together to make a nice three stranded rope. As the strands are twisted, it creates tension on the backboard. To relieve the tension, we drill a hole through the backboard and tie the rope to another counterweight rope through a swivel hook that pulls the tension and allows it to rise as the cord is pulled. We also make a rope makers top that will help guide those strands into the beautiful three strand cord. We add two ropes between the spinner mechanism as guidelines and connect it to the back board to accommodate the rope makers top. The idea is that as the tension builds it will glide forward and guide the individual strands into place to form a three stranded rope. We sandpaper the holes on the rope makers top to make it smoother so that the lines won't snag up when they start twisting. We put a wooden knob on the back to reduce the friction so that the rope makers top can slide smoothly. Loop the cords through each of the three hooks on our rope maker machine .Form a slipknot and connect it to the swivel hook. We have our rope machine build complete . To tie and cut of the rope, take a small piece of electrical tape and wrap it around the end where you want to cut it off. Cut The Rope at the back just where the electrical tape ends . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ddenqErLL0Q https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uEvM6ue3L7E https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RM9GY-n6PEA
- DIY Video :How to heat your Home by building an Smokeless Outdoor Wood Boiler from Start to finish
- DIY Video : How to Repurpose an Old Water heater into a Foundry Furnace. Easy to build,Heat up quickly and efficientThis Video series shows how to Repurpose an Old Water heater into a Foundry Furnace.This is a great way for the do-it-yourselfer to build a foundry furnace that will last a long time, heat up quickly, be fuel efficient, easy to build, and not break the bank!.The materials needed for this build are Old Water heater,Non-firing refractory,100HT ceramic coating,Ceramic blanket.