This tutorial goes over the basic overview of a 24×24 , two 9 foot door,one side door window garage.First of all,you will need to take permission from the building inspector.The inspector makes sure that you are within zoning requirements.You will need the paperwork ,plot plan when you go to the building inspector and those are available from your assessor’s office or the town hall or you may have one with your deed.Started with a bucket loader come in, take out some trees level off the area remove blushes and prep for the concrete work.
The first step is to dig down and install the footings where the wall is kind of set.Here I have a four foot wall put in with the floating floor.
Wall of the foundation is about six inches high, it goes into the ground four foot.And one reason that I wanted the wall foundation versus a flat pad foundation is because of the bug issues.
After the footings are dry in a few days,the walls are put up and I have the openings for the two nine foot doors and a side door.
After they dry for a few days,the floor screen is laid .This is a standard 4 inch thick flooring.
Floating floor means that in reality, if the ground swells during the winter time, the floor can actually rise up and sink down. But it prevents it from cracking because it does have a little give to it. So it’s not actually connected to this wall. It’s poured right up against it, but the floor is a separate piece by itself.
When the walls are poured every four foot they have a half inch threaded rod that’s embedded into the concrete while it’s still wet, it goes down about maybe a foot and a half has an L shape on the bottom in the rod will stick up directly in the center of the 2 X 4.
2 inlets for underground wiring,a 50 and 130 amp circuit.Its buried four foot down through the PVC.
The walls are standard 2 X 4, a double sill plate and a top plate those are the two that run horizontally. I use pressure treated against the concrete which will take care of the bug issues.
The headers for the garage door is standrd 2X10,double up half inch plywood in the center.
The plywood on the three sides and trusses are put up.The trusses are put upside down and they are flipped up.But once they’re up there I marked the top sills where I wanted them nailed them and put braces across the top,measure and straighten them out.
The first truss on the end of the building on both ends is called the gable end. It’s a little different than the other main trusses.The trusses are 24 inch on center, which means that they’re spaced 24 inches apart,unlike the walls which are 16.
The roof and the sides are on half inch plywood.I also run some stringers down the center and off to the sides to help so they won’t twist during a snowstorm.One thing that’s very important is when you put up the plywood the very first piece that you put on is the most important piece of wood that you’re going to put on this garage because everything references off that one piece.It has to be square to the gable end .
When the first piece of plywood is put up, you install the plywood ties between the trusses and all that does is if the roof gets moisture from inside the garage,it will tend to flex.The ties help in keeping them nice and flat and avoid the bowing.
The truss catwalk goes right down the center that stabilizes the horizontal bottom piece of the truss.
The doors are framed and roof is made of standard architectural shingles.These shingles have more lifespan.Also added tarpaper on the roof.The wiring is through down the center of the catwalk.
The finished garage and the build videos
- How to Dig a Shallow Well from Start to Finish for offgrid homesteadingThis project goes over how you can dig your own shallow well using simple tools that you can get from your local garden store. The materials you need to dig and install a well are as follows. A customized Seymour AUA2 Post Auger to dig the hole. A Shovel is used to move the pea gravel and dirt out of the way. A Four inch casing PVC pipe that is going into the hole that is dug and this is going to hold the water until you need it. One and one fourth inch threaded adapter. This connects the bottom of the casing pipe to the foot valve. The foot valve is one and one quarter inch. This valve allows the water to come in and not go out. This helps to keep the pump primed. A water well pump pipe which is basically a one and one quarter inch PVC pipe. This will pull the water from the bottom of the well bringing it to your pump. The length of this pipe is going to be determined by how deep your well is. It should be at least a foot shorter than the depth of your well. You don't want this pipe sitting on the bottom because it would just be sitting in sediment and it will be clogging things up. A pitcher pump that has a one and one quarter inch threaded water inlet at the bottom. A closet flange. It makes mounting the pump to the top of your well four inch casing pipe very easy and it also helps keep things clean. Basically you would just set this inside you your four inch pipe, drill a hole out of the middle of a board, screw that to the top of this flange then mount your pump to the board that you have fastened to this. A one and one quarter inch threaded adapter. This will screw into the bottom of your pitcher pump and in turn, it will connect to the pipe bringing water to your pump from the bottom of the well. Teflon tape, PVC glue. Pea gravel - This will go down around the casing pipe of the well. The amount of pea gravel you need is determined by the depth of the well and water height. Quikcrete or aerated concrete to cap the top of the well. This prevents groundwater contamination and keeps stuff from finding a way to easily get into your well. To find the spot for the well, we use couple of coat hangers as dowsing roads. We take a drinking straw ,cut it in half and slide it over the coat hangers. This helps us in not using our hands or fingers influence while dowsing. Also it is easy to rotate the rods within the straws. The rods are kept parallel to the ground . If the rods cross each other , then mark the spot on the ground directly down the cross . This is the ideal spot for the well. The auger used for digging the hole for the well is modified from the default Seymour Post hole auger. We use a custom 5 foot 11 gauge one and half inch square tubing as the extension for the auger . The handle of the auger is a three foot three quarter inch pipe welded to a four inch 11 gauge square tubing. We start digging into the the spot that we have found earlier using the dowsing rods. Pay attention to the changes in the color of sand , because that can give you clues as whether you are getting closer to water. We extend the auger using the square bar tube once the auger handle is near the ground. Once you have hit wet clay, there is going to be suction around. We twist and pull at the same time to get the auger out of the hole in this situation. Next, we put the 20 foot PVC casing pipe into the hole . We cut slots using a reciprocating saw on the pipe one foot from the bottom of the well to the top of the water level to allow the water to flow into the well. Pea gravel is poured around the sides of the pipe all the way up to the slots . The remaining hole area around the pipe is packed with sand and clay. We seal the well by packing it around the sides with quickrete cement. This helps the water not to be able to run down into your well but around it. We lower the one and one quarter inch well pump pipe with the foot valve at the end into the PVC casing pipe. A four inch drain flange is secured on top of the casing pipe . A pitcher pump is then attached to top of the pipe. To prevent the pump from moving, it is bolted to the board where the flange is installed. To prime the well, we pour some water down through the pitcher pump. Pump out the dirty water until it is clean. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5rYPRMm8Arw
- How to build a simple Homemade PVC Off grid River Pump to pump water from a river or creekThis project goes over the build of a river pump that can be used to pump water from a nearby river or creek anywhere you want without any external power.It works off of a circular tube, gulping air and water as it rotates. It works by harnessing the flow of the river and creating air pressure to push the water further.It pushes water out from the river and up through your hose system, which you can direct where needed. To use a river pump, all you need is a nearby river or creek that has flowing water and a location that is deep enough to support your river pump. Here are the parts needed for this water pump: A 3 inch to 4inch reducer A 4 inch to 6 inch reducer 40 foot ,3/8 inch tubing 3 inch socket to thread /cap Garden hose adapter Quick release couplings Six,four,two inch pipes Take your angle grinder and cut them to four pieces.Connect the pieces together using a PVC cement solvent and make it into a cone that steps down as it goes. A window screen is used as a shield on the back.So this design is supposed to be rather streamlined in order to keep debris and stuff from getting caught as the pump works The cap at the end of the cone is attached to the swivel piece. It needs to be able to swivel freely on top of this. The hose tightens into this metal swivel piece and gets locked down. Next is building fan blades for the front of this pump to spin it.Cut the PVC into 4 equal blades that is 8 inches tall. Bolt the swivel piece along with the blade we have just cut. Water comes flowing in and hits the blades that is attached to the rotating swivel, makes it move and rotate and then hits the next one in line. The end piece is attached to the the PVC cone that we made earlier.Next step is getting our 40 foot hose tubing to get inside the pipe and attach to the swivel end. Next step is wrapping the 40 foot hose around the pump .We need to wrap the hose in such a way once the water hits the swivel end,the hose has got to pick up water. The Garden Hose is connected to the swivel end of the pump.Place the system along the direction the flow of the river or creek.
- DIY Video: How to build a Copper Coil Ammo Box Off Grid Water Heater.Also works as a Space Heater