This project goes over the build of a simple gravity drip fed waste oil burner that can be used to heat your shop/garage efficiently.It heats up the garage to about 30 to 40 degrees. Hot air from the center pipe reaches up to 500 degree celsius. Once dialed in, the smoke clears and the burner is stable at 400’C.
The materials needed for this project are grinder,MiG welder,plasma cutter, scrap propane tank,hammer,enclosed brake disc, steel cooking pan, 4 inch 10ft pipe, bolts and iron rod and temperature sensor to keep track of the heat.
The footing and the chimney pipe is welded onto the propane tank.Add a pipe right through the middle and weld the retainers for the pan and the legs around the vessel.
To improve the airflow , we cut bunch of holes around the legs. Also added some more spaces on the legs to keep the temperature away from the concrete floor. We also make a venting hole on both sides at the middle of the propane tank .
To adjust the temperature, we add 2 7/16 primary holes right at the base above the heating pan. You control the burner by adjusting the input airflow into the burning chamber.
Don’t make the air holes for the draft on the burner too big but have plenty of holes so that with the increase the temperature and the increase in airspeed, the draft the fresh air can actually get to the burner, and you will get cleaner burn. These secondary holes allow for more oil splatter to leave the burner if any water content is present.
The drip system is kept open which helps you to check how much oil flow is there and also as a safety precaution. If there is any kind of flashback, it will pop out of here and not go all the way through the the pipe back into the reservoir.
This whole system is completely serviceable, completely mobile,not bolted down.You can unhook the chimney, the exhaust pipe, remove the drip system pipe and the rest.
The drip system is made of heavy pipe and a small ball valve that is welded in place at the distance and at a specific height so as to dissipate the heat coming from the burner. Also you dont want the oil to reverse its direction and go back into the pipe.
With the help of a fans, we increase the heat dispersion. With two fans,one blows hot air away from the wall and the other allows extra air for the burn.It pulls cold air from the floor and allows fresh air intake. Effective heating and keep the heat away from the wall.
To start the system, we pour the waste oil onto the steel pan and place it under the burner. Make sure you dont have any trace of water in the pan or oil. The oil will splatter out of the secondary holes if there is water.The more you can bring in to the burning chamber,the more it will burn and more it will smoke.
- How to build a simple Homemade PVC Off grid River Pump to pump water from a river or creekThis project goes over the build of a river pump that can be used to pump water from a nearby river or creek anywhere you want without any external power.It works off of a circular tube, gulping air and water as it rotates. It works by harnessing the flow of the river and creating air pressure to push the water further.It pushes water out from the river and up through your hose system, which you can direct where needed. To use a river pump, all you need is a nearby river or creek that has flowing water and a location that is deep enough to support your river pump. Here are the parts needed for this water pump: A 3 inch to 4inch reducer A 4 inch to 6 inch reducer 40 foot ,3/8 inch tubing 3 inch socket to thread /cap Garden hose adapter Quick release couplings Six,four,two inch pipes Take your angle grinder and cut them to four pieces.Connect the pieces together using a PVC cement solvent and make it into a cone that steps down as it goes. A window screen is used as a shield on the back.So this design is supposed to be rather streamlined in order to keep debris and stuff from getting caught as the pump works The cap at the end of the cone is attached to the swivel piece. It needs to be able to swivel freely on top of this. The hose tightens into this metal swivel piece and gets locked down. Next is building fan blades for the front of this pump to spin it.Cut the PVC into 4 equal blades that is 8 inches tall. Bolt the swivel piece along with the blade we have just cut. Water comes flowing in and hits the blades that is attached to the rotating swivel, makes it move and rotate and then hits the next one in line. The end piece is attached to the the PVC cone that we made earlier.Next step is getting our 40 foot hose tubing to get inside the pipe and attach to the swivel end. Next step is wrapping the 40 foot hose around the pump .We need to wrap the hose in such a way once the water hits the swivel end,the hose has got to pick up water. The Garden Hose is connected to the swivel end of the pump.Place the system along the direction the flow of the river or creek.
- How to build a Homemade Super Efficient Portable Solar GeneratorThis project goes over the build of a Homemade medium sized and moderately priced portable solar power generator that is designed to be powered by 100W Polycrystalline Solar Panel. The case for this portable system is from Plano sportsman, quite sturdy and rugged that a typical container. Costs about $25 . It has a nice top with handles that latch it down. On the back of the system, we have two pin SAE port that allows the energy from the solar panel to come into the system. It directly goes into a 30A solar charge controller. The negative from the charge controller is connected to the negative of the batteries. The positive is connected via a switch to positive of the battery. The negatives and positives of the batteries are connected to each other. The negative of the inverter is connected to the negative of the battery. The positive is connected to a battery switch off circuit that is further connected to battery positive through a switch. The USB ports,12V DC outlet, DC meter all are connected to the respective terminals of the batteries. To connect to the AC outlet from the inverter, we take a 3 wire extension cord which can be bought from the local hardware store . The negative end of this wire is connected to the negative of the shallow box AC outlet and the positive is connected via an 15A inline fuse and a current transformer. The ammeter is connected to current transformer and the 110V outlet. On the front of the system, we have the accessory ports including a 12V power indicator , 2 USB ports with 5V one amp and 5V 2.1amp, 12V outlet, AC Voltmeter and ammeter. Amp meter tells how many amps we drawing out of the system using various appliances. This can help us understand how much solar power is being generated during the day versus solar power being utilized from the system. The whole system is turned on a 12V master key switch that activates inverter, case temperature sensor, cooling fans , AC power outlets. We install a key and power up the AC side of the system. There is two fans on the back that push air in and draw air out of the case to keep the AC DC inverter cool. Inside we have a deck tray made from backboard material available at Home Depot. We have installed a 400W pure sine wave inverter, a 30A MPPT solar charge controller and a 12V emergency LED light on them, also has four vents that allow air to circulate through the top portion of the case as well as through the bottom. The vents keep the batteries cool and allow any off-gas build up from the batteries to pass it through. Here the inverter has a built in automatic shutdown feature that ensures that the batteries are not discharged to a significant level. So it is safely connected to the batteries. Once the deck tray is taken apart, we have 2 55AH AGM sealed batteries that are wired in parallel to a 2 AWG cables to transfer the power back and forth between the batteries. These type of batteries require less maintenance. Also installed a wooden frame with exact dimension of inside of the case to keep the batteries in place and keep them from moving around. To protect all the components we have fuses ranging from ANL 50amp fuses between the inverter and the battery , inline 30amp fuse between the solar charge controller and the batteries. To attach jumper cables we have an option for external heavy duty battery terminals. To connect to an AC float charger we have added a SAE 2 pin port. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=offgcMwuTGw&list=PLE0oc91st1znXrnczHySumH34-UJP3N2S
- How to build a Simple Homemade Bandsaw Mill from Old Car WheelsThis project goes over the build of a simple Bandsaw from old car wheels .Car wheels are big and heavy, but in many ways, they are ideal for bandsaws. They are available everywhere cheaply. They have a rubber tire for the blade to sit on, and they have excellent bearings. Take apart the brakes, the backplate , bearings and the stub axle out of the housing. Weld the stub axle onto an off cut of scaffolding. So we now have two wheels, spinning on the ends of two straight lengths of steel. We take some scrap angle iron pieces and make a rectangular frame for the mill. This form as the base of our mill. In order to make the sliding mechanism, we take a scrap pipe and try to fit it onto a square iron pipe so it can slide in and out smoothly. This will be used for all adjustments. This is welded onto the frame. A Steel plate is welded onto the sliding bars. This is for the engine to sit on. The engine will drive one of the car wheels We mount the 11 HP Petrol Engine to steel plate and the tire is connected directly to the engine shaft through a drive belt. The drive wheel is bolted on to the frame ,also added a lever for the engine mount which will act as a sort of clutch, tightening and slackening the belt when necessary. We add two more pipes on the bottom of the frame and slid them to the support platform of the second wheel made from the same square box iron and some short sections which is part of the blade guide. The second wheel has to be adjustable in a few different directions and has to be lined up with the first wheel so the blade stays on them both without running off the tires. To adjust the tension on the blade by moving the wheel away from the first one, we use a bottle screw. The blade guides are made from cheap bearings. They needs to be adjustable so that the saw can cope with logs of different sizes. The blade guides help keep the blade straight as it goes through the log and also stops the plate being pushed off wheels The band saw has to go up and down so that it can cut planks from a log. We make a simple frame to hold it. It has to fit inside vertical pieces of angle iron on the saw. The support frame is bolted onto to the saw by using a bracket which grip the uprights. Couple of barn door pulleys are bolted onto the top of the support frame and the mill frame. A trailer winch is bolted on to the middle of the support frame. Using a 3mm wire and winch-pulley system, we can move the wheel frame up and down. Two short pipes are added at the front and these hold up a guard which can be taken off when we need to get at the belt or the blade. If the blade snaps, the side guards should make sure that it heads down towards the ground and not up to the ceiling. The saw is stationary and the log is moved through it using dolly trailers or rails. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL3_dJayH6e6ibBd5sA6WgXO99zf2zBsUe