Salvage waste motor oil, transmission fluid, old diesel that has water in it, whatever type of fuel that you might be able to have access to, wouldn’t it be great to be able to take that fuel and run it in your vehicles and not throw it away? Or have to recycle it, you can recycle it yourself.
Well, one of the ways is to filter. But filter material is expensive, and you got to constantly replace it. So I was introduced to this filter. Actually, it’s a centrifuge by USfilterMaxx.
This is just our initial test where we’re going to take waste motor oil, dump it in the top of the centrifuge at spinning at about 3000 RPMs or more.
And then we’re going to drain and the result will be waste will be sludge in one bucket and clean motor oil and the other that can be mixed with diesel or run straight.
In some diesel engines be careful on how you do this, you don’t wanna mess up your injectors. But for old diesel engines that are very pretty forgiving, this is a great solution.
So again, this stuff will go in my tractor or my old two cylinder diesel generator, but I’m just taking waste motor oil, and spinning out everything to make to make fuel, waste or motor oil has a ton of btu’s in it. And mixing it with diesel makes for a very good sustainable solution.
This is just some motor oil, nice and black from a friend of mine is changing oil in his truck. And we’re gonna start with a two and a half gallon batch and run this through the centrifuge and see what she does with it. So you can see how black it is.
Run the centrifuge on start introducing the waste oil. Okay, we’re starting to get this filtered oil out.We’re just doing a two and a half gallon batch run here. And then we’re going to shut the centrifuge off.
And the only way to really tell if we did anything was to see how much sludge is left in the centrifuge. That doesn’t work until the centrifuge stops spinning because all the sludges is gonna be stuck to the outside wall.
The sludge starts coming out.The centrifuge has stopped spinning, everything moves to the center and that’s where the drain plug is
This is the guts of the centrifuge. When this is spinning, it takes the oil coming in and pushes it out, and it comes over the dam, the clean stuff comes over here, it looks like it never had oil on it. And then that drops in here to come out the clean tube. When you stop spinning, the internal drains here. That’s where the sludge is coming.
The centrifuge run off a 220 power source. So you will need a generator or grid power to run it, or a pretty good battery bank in an inverter to run it
We’re gonna take our motor oil that we’ve just spun in a centrifuge, and we’re going to put about a gallon and a half of it in this five gallon jug, and then I’m going to add a gallon and a half of diesel.We’re gonna pour some of our motor oil mix and veggie. I mean motor oil and diesel 50-50 combination first.
We’ve added a few cool features to our centrifuge we added a shell and tube heat exchanger made out of copper. So we can take hot water and heat the oil, the stored oil to a point where the viscosity is, is much lower, and it’ll spin out a lot cleaner. We’ve added a little solar direct drive water pump, throwing off a little 20 watt panel, moving the hot water through the shell and tube.
We’ve also added a P-trap to make sure any of the vapors from the hot oil do not escape into the clean oil bucket. They stay in the centrifuge and actually are evacuated out of the sludge side.
We use thermo siphoning using a used water heater for the heat .This is free heat, there’s no pumps, just thermo siphoning up to this tank and then using the little solar pump to take the hot water off the top of that tank and run it to our shell and tube.
So pretty much off the grid water heating, heating lots of water using a thermal siphoning process.
- DIY Video:How to build a Homemade Double Barrel Garage Heater out of Old Water Tanks .Efficient,clean burn and cheap!This project goes over the build of Double Barrel Stove out of two old scrap water heaters for the shop. The first step is to disassemble both the old electric hot water heaters to get their tanks out. Take a grinder and cut a section off from the top of the water heater tank. This tank will become the bottom tank. Remove any calcium and mineral that ends up developing deposits inside the bottom of the tank. Take a 12 gauge plate steel and put our top drum upside down and scribe a circle out of them from the end and cut it. Weld the steel piece onto the drum. You need to do the same for the other drum too because with these double barrels, you are basically making two stoves, just connecting them in the middle. Now both the top tank and bottom tank ends have been polished and cleaned .Remove any insulations, paints and glues from them if they have any. Make sure all the rough pieces on the tank are welded on ground down. Cut a small piece of pipe that acts as stack between the 2 tank. Next step is to add a small support bracket on the top of the bottom tank that will help support the top tank. Cut a hole on the bottom tank .This will be where the stack goes between two of them. Fill the drain plug down at the bottom . Take the top tank, cut and weld the top exhaust stack that will be six inch outlet for the smoke. We also add a six inch inlet that goes up to the top that forces your your smoke and the gas has to go across the length of the barrel. The bottom barrel will be connected to this. Both barrels are welded together, the bottom barrel is welded onto the mid stack which connects the top barrel with the exhaust stack. In order to support the barrels, we take the scrap pipes lying around and make legs as a support structure for the stove. Next is the door fabrication. We cut a hole for the door in the bottom barrel. A couple of hinges, door catch are welded on to this end. An air inlet pipe is threaded onto a plate. The whole unit is then attached to the door. A handle is attached to the inlet pipe so you can open and close whenever you want to control the flow of the air intake. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fTj4pjJ4DT0
- DIY Video: How to build a Homemade Gravity fed ,Drip Waste Oil Heater for your Garage .Clean and EfficientThis project goes over the build of a simple gravity drip fed waste oil burner that can be used to heat your shop/garage efficiently.It heats up the garage to about 30 to 40 degrees. Hot air from the center pipe reaches up to 500 degree celsius. Once dialed in, the smoke clears and the burner is stable at 400'C. The materials needed for this project are grinder,MiG welder,plasma cutter, scrap propane tank,hammer,enclosed brake disc, steel cooking pan, 4 inch 10ft pipe, bolts and iron rod and temperature sensor to keep track of the heat. The footing and the chimney pipe is welded onto the propane tank.Add a pipe right through the middle and weld the retainers for the pan and the legs around the vessel. To improve the airflow , we cut bunch of holes around the legs. Also added some more spaces on the legs to keep the temperature away from the concrete floor. We also make a venting hole on both sides at the middle of the propane tank . To adjust the temperature, we add 2 7/16 primary holes right at the base above the heating pan. You control the burner by adjusting the input airflow into the burning chamber. Don't make the air holes for the draft on the burner too big but have plenty of holes so that with the increase the temperature and the increase in airspeed, the draft the fresh air can actually get to the burner, and you will get cleaner burn. These secondary holes allow for more oil splatter to leave the burner if any water content is present. The drip system is kept open which helps you to check how much oil flow is there and also as a safety precaution. If there is any kind of flashback, it will pop out of here and not go all the way through the the pipe back into the reservoir. This whole system is completely serviceable, completely mobile,not bolted down.You can unhook the chimney, the exhaust pipe, remove the drip system pipe and the rest. The drip system is made of heavy pipe and a small ball valve that is welded in place at the distance and at a specific height so as to dissipate the heat coming from the burner. Also you dont want the oil to reverse its direction and go back into the pipe. With the help of a fans, we increase the heat dispersion. With two fans,one blows hot air away from the wall and the other allows extra air for the burn.It pulls cold air from the floor and allows fresh air intake. Effective heating and keep the heat away from the wall. To start the system, we pour the waste oil onto the steel pan and place it under the burner. Make sure you dont have any trace of water in the pan or oil. The oil will splatter out of the secondary holes if there is water.The more you can bring in to the burning chamber,the more it will burn and more it will smoke. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAPOkkwXoxY https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Yz0tjDfYL0
- How to build a Homemade Water Powered HHO Dry Cell GeneratorThis project goes over the build of a Homemade 19 Plate HHO Dry Cell Generator . The HHO generator works by the principle of electrolysis. Water is made from two types of atoms hydrogen and oxygen. Electrolysis is a method for splitting water into hydrogen and oxygen. Pure water isn't electrically conductive, so we add either sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide to it to make it conductive. To make the electrolyzer , we need electrode plates, neutral plates, gaskets, front and back plates with some metal reinforcements . The electrode plates and the neutral plates are made of 304 stainless steel sheets, the gaskets made from one eighth inch neoprene rubber sheet. The neutral plates are stacked in between the positive and the negative plates .The empty spaces are filled with neoprene gaskets. Water comes into the electrolyzer through the input tube and goes out as hydrogen and oxygen through the output tube. When electricity is applied to the electrodes, the chemical reaction occurs, which causes the hydrogen from the water to go to one plate and the oxygen to the other plate where there they form bubbles of gas .Now the electricity wants to jump from the negative plate to the positive plate but since we have neutral plates between them, they divide the original voltage. This help in efficient HHO gas generation. The plates are made of 12 X 12 .24ga 304 stainless steel sheets that is cut into four 6 inch pieces using tin snips . The plates are stacked together and holes are cut top and bottom for where the gas and the water comes in and leaves. To hold the plates together use seven inch cutting boards with metal support frames at both ends. To differentiate between neutral plates and the electrode plates, we cut both corners of the neutral plates and only one corner of the electrode plates. So this way we can run a bolt from the positive to the other positive and negative to other negative end. To assemble the cell, we place onto the base cutting board, the positive electrode plate and stack the neutral plates and the gaskets on them one by one and enclose them the negative electrode plate and the base board .Secure them with bolts on four corners. The electrode plates are then connected to each other with a thin gauge wire. The next component for the build is some sort of a water reservoir. The reservoir is nothing more than a bottle that's going to hold your electrolyte, which is distilled water and either sodium hydroxide. The water reservoir is connected to the cell using two three eighth inch tubes, one going into the cell and other coming out . The other component that you're going to need to build this HHO generator is some kind of a power supply that can generate 12V 30amps . This can be a car battery hooked up to a trickle charger, an old computer UPS supply or a 12V battery used for solar panels. The electrode cells are then secured on a wooden frame along with the power supply and the water bottle reservoir for easy portability. Next you need a bubbler .This takes the HHO gas coming into it and diffuses them and gets broken into smaller bubbles. As those bubbles travel up the column of water inside the bubbler, it helps to filter out the sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide vapors .If your bubbler is set up correctly, then after being diffused and traveling up that column of water, it tends to get rid of most if not all those vapors. To add a safety feature ,we drill the top of the bottle , remove the lid and cover it up with a plastic foil pressure membrane . If the pressure inside the bubbler increases in case of a flashback ,instead of the jar exploding, the pressure is able to escape through the membrane . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ILzMhqEFMeI