How to build a Super Efficient Outdoor Wood Stove Heater from an Old Propane Bottle

    This project goes over the build of an efficient outdoor wood burning stove heater out of an old propane bottle and some scrap metal from the scrapyard. This stove has secondary burn system that helps in combustion of any unburned smoke or fume inside .Almost little to no smoke coming from the flue pipe.

    The first step is to make sure that the old propane tank is empty. We take the valve at the top by removing the valve protector cage. Fill the tank with water and let it sit for a few hours before we drain the tank and start cutting top and bottom.

    With the help of a hole saw cutter ,we cut 100mm four inch holes at the top and bottom of the tank . The top hole is for the flue pipe to sit in and the bottom hole is for cleaning the ashes out. We also remove the bottom stand too.

    Next, we cut a hole for the door for the stove. This is cut as high up to the top of the bottle . The door is made of chequered plate piece . We fit a rectangular pyrex dish glass piece in the middle of the chequered plate that can withstand high temperature with couple of steel bracket pieces.

    The glass on the door helps us to see how the secondary burn system is working inside the chamber. The door is attached to a frame through hinges.

    The flue outlet on the top the tank is attached through a flange piece with holes. The door handle is made of a socket wrench. The wrench is bolted to the plate and a small metal piece is welded onto to the frame to which the wrench is pulled to close the door

    A deflector plate made of small holes is installed inside the stove on the top . We drill 8mm holes around the top of tank and put dome bolts across them. The deflector pipe sits on these bolts. The deflector plate stop the unburned gases exiting out the flue outlet pipe. This encourages the flame that rises, pass through the deflector plate holes into the secondary burn chamber that helps in better combustion.

    The secondary burn system is made of stainless steel pipes .The air intake section is long enough to get the air coming in to get super heated and move into two sections filled with holes.

    Since not all gases from the wood combust from the primary air intake, the secondary burn pipe ensures that the air gets super heated before exiting the pre-drilled holes and helps burn the unburned gases rising from the fire before exiting the flue pipe.

    The secondary air intake pipe coming out of the firebox is welded on the top of the tank with a flange piece. The primary air intake pipe that goes under the door frame is made of a two inch coupler and threaded damper disc. A small metal piece is welded to the coupler with a hole in the middle. The damper disc screws in through the hole that allows us to close and open the intake .

    • How to heat your Garage by building a Super Insulated Radiant Floor Heating System
      This project goes over the installation of a homemade radiant floor hydronic heating system for the garage. The radiant floor heating uses a pex tubing that is installed along the floor of your garage or room . Hot water is passed through the tubing which radiates the heat out into the room or space. The first step is to figure out what size pex coil tubing and how big of a water heater you would need . Also how many feet of tubing would allow enough heat to exchange into the concrete floor to sufficiently warm up the entire space. The total BTU/hour or heat required will be based on the square footage of your garage or room . We begin by levelling the ground and start laying down a vapor barrier .The vapor barrier is made out of 6 Mil Visqueen plastic PE film .The barrier keeps the moisture from under the ground to rise up to the surface of the floor. We then lay a mixture of sand and packing gravel before installing the two inch extruded insulating polystyrene foam on the floor and the perimeter. Four circuits of 800 ft half inch Pex tubing is stapled down on two inches of polystyrene insulating foam using a pex stapler. The eight tube ends are routed upto to a box from where it is connected to a manifold which is mounted on to the wall. The pex tubing with the supply and return tube is connected to the manifold with the help of a compression fitting . To check if all the connections are OK or if there is any hole or leak in the tubing, connect the manifold to a 100 PSOI air pressure gauge to do a pressure test. Five inches of concrete is then poured over the pex tubing circuits. Saw cuts of less than an inch are made into the concrete to allow for the shrinkage during the curing process. To insulate the pex tubing and to prevent water from entering into the floor, an expanding foam sealant is filled near the junction where the concrete meets the supply and return tubing near the manifold. The heating components of this system are mounted on a 4 X 4 square sheet of plywood. The heater has a rating of 7.2kW . The heater is flow activated which requires a circulating pump to pump water through it which then activates the heater based on the temperature setting. Two 120V fractional horsepower circulating pumps are used , one for running the water through the heater and the other circulates out through the pex loops. The pump has an inbuilt garden hose connector system used for draining. The hot water coming out of the output end of the heater passes through a pressure tank which removes the air bubble with an air release valve and prevents any water hammer to the system. This is further connected to the flow activated circulating pump for the heater with connections for filing and draining the system with the help of shut off valves. The water then comes down to a stainless steel manifold and then flows through the supply end of the pex tubing . The heated water splits into four supply loops at the manifold into the concrete floor. The water then returns back to the return end of the manifold through the other four loops of pex tubing and goes straight through another circulating pump and a Y strainer filter before circulating back to the heater. Two thermometers are connected at the supply and return end of the pipe to know the temperature difference of the outdoing water and the returning water. The flow is controlled by a thermostat and a switching relay that turns on the circulating pump .
    • How to build a Homemade Wooden Bandsaw Mill from Scratch.Step by step build Instructions
      This project goes over the build of a simple Homemade Bandsaw mill that can that turn hard maple into smaller lumber . The first step is to make the wheels of the mill. Here we use a three quarter MDF board to make this. The wheel size is 16 inch. We use a beam compass to cut circles and cut two wheels out of them. We make a seven and half pulley for the wheel using a three quarter inch plywood and drill a five eighth inch hole into the middle where the shaft goes. We take some hot melt glue and glue the stock collar onto the pulley and tighten it with a set screw so as to stop it from spinning. Before joining the wheel and pulley together, we make another small disc to go in between to act as a spacer .We glue the pulley to this spacer and from spacer to the wheel. Two wheel bearing blocks are bolted to the wheel on both sides using 4 three eighth inch threaded rods. Make sure that the threaded rods are tight inside the hole in the wheel, but the bearing blocks itself can move around. One way to keep these bearing blocks in place so that they dont move side to side is to apply some construction adhesive to the corners. Next step is building the frame for the saw from salvaged 2 X 4 boards. Make sure that the 2X 4's are straight. Take the bench hand plane and smoothen the edges so that the boards sit flat. It takes several shallow passes flipping the woods each time to get rid of all the twists and warps. Two frames pieces hold the wheel in ,the stationary drive wheel is placed eight and half inches from the end. Two five eighth inch holes are drilled on both the frames so that axles fits in there neatly. On the other side, one holes are drilled that gives the room to adjust the wheel. We also make an adjustment collar out of plywood that is bolted into the frame and the shaft . The collar can be moved to adjust the wheel. We also place couple of pieces across the frame and secure them tight so that the supporting boards are locked in position. On the other side we install the front wheel or top wheel. This wheel needs to move back and forth to put tension on the blade. It also must have a tracking mechanism. For that we make a two small piece that locks into the shaft on the front wheel and slides back and fourth. A guide piece is drilled onto to this piece . A one inch hole is drilled into our slider piece and a three eighth inch threaded rod is secured in there with a nut and washer. These rods help put tension on the blade and also adjusts tracking. Before putting the blades on the wheels, we put silicone caulking on the wheels to smoothen it out .These have advantage over bicycle inner tubes as it doesn't drape down over. The legs are attached to the frame using gusset blocks. To put the motor onto the frame , we take a melamine board and screw them aside the stationary wheel using a cross board. This piece of melamine not only supports the motor, it also helps to brace up the top to keep that from rocking. Secure them tight so that it resists moving while the cutting is going on. Next we make blade guides near the bottom to make a guard for the blades just in case it snaps and flies off. The blade guides are made of small piece of steel angle that is glued to a ceramic piece. The way blade guides work is that they don't actually touch the blade when it is running. It is only when the blade tries to move up or down that it will constrain it and keep it on track and prevent it from twisting. A thrust bearing made of regular size ball bearings is bolted onto an aluminum angle that is further attached to the blade guide. We make a dolly cart out of 2 X 4 boards and some castors to place the big maple logs and move it effortlessly through the blades . The castors are screwed in the ends using quarter inch holes. The castors are fixed in such a way that it moves only in one direction back and forth.
    • DIY Video : How to recycle your Waste motor oil,transmission oil or any waste fuel into 100% Re-Usable Fuel
      Salvage waste motor oil, transmission fluid, old diesel that has water in it, whatever type of fuel that you might be able to have access to, wouldn't it be great to be able to take that fuel and run it in your vehicles and not throw it away? Or have to recycle it, you can recycle it yourself. Well, one of the ways is to filter. But filter material is expensive, and you got to constantly replace it. So I was introduced to this filter. Actually, it's a centrifuge by USfilterMaxx. This is just our initial test where we're going to take waste motor oil, dump it in the top of the centrifuge at spinning at about 3000 RPMs or more. And then we're going to drain and the result will be waste will be sludge in one bucket and clean motor oil and the other that can be mixed with diesel or run straight. In some diesel engines be careful on how you do this, you don't wanna mess up your injectors. But for old diesel engines that are very pretty forgiving, this is a great solution. So again, this stuff will go in my tractor or my old two cylinder diesel generator, but I'm just taking waste motor oil, and spinning out everything to make to make fuel, waste or motor oil has a ton of btu's in it. And mixing it with diesel makes for a very good sustainable solution. This is just some motor oil, nice and black from a friend of mine is changing oil in his truck. And we're gonna start with a two and a half gallon batch and run this through the centrifuge and see what she does with it. So you can see how black it is. Run the centrifuge on start introducing the waste oil. Okay, we're starting to get this filtered oil out.We're just doing a two and a half gallon batch run here. And then we're going to shut the centrifuge off. And the only way to really tell if we did anything was to see how much sludge is left in the centrifuge. That doesn't work until the centrifuge stops spinning because all the sludges is gonna be stuck to the outside wall. The sludge starts coming out.The centrifuge has stopped spinning, everything moves to the center and that's where the drain plug is This is the guts of the centrifuge. When this is spinning, it takes the oil coming in and pushes it out, and it comes over the dam, the clean stuff comes over here, it looks like it never had oil on it. And then that drops in here to come out the clean tube. When you stop spinning, the internal drains here. That's where the sludge is coming. The centrifuge run off a 220 power source. So you will need a generator or grid power to run it, or a pretty good battery bank in an inverter to run it We're gonna take our motor oil that we've just spun in a centrifuge, and we're going to put about a gallon and a half of it in this five gallon jug, and then I'm going to add a gallon and a half of diesel.We're gonna pour some of our motor oil mix and veggie. I mean motor oil and diesel 50-50 combination first. We've added a few cool features to our centrifuge we added a shell and tube heat exchanger made out of copper. So we can take hot water and heat the oil, the stored oil to a point where the viscosity is, is much lower, and it'll spin out a lot cleaner. We've added a little solar direct drive water pump, throwing off a little 20 watt panel, moving the hot water through the shell and tube. We've also added a P-trap to make sure any of the vapors from the hot oil do not escape into the clean oil bucket. They stay in the centrifuge and actually are evacuated out of the sludge side. We use thermo siphoning using a used water heater for the heat .This is free heat, there's no pumps, just thermo siphoning up to this tank and then using the little solar pump to take the hot water off the top of that tank and run it to our shell and tube. So pretty much off the grid water heating, heating lots of water using a thermal siphoning process.