This project goes over the build of a convertible waste oil powered aluminum foundry / forge made out of recycled materials. Waste oil burning does get more than hot enough to melt down aluminum, which has a melting point of about 660.3 degree celsius.
The materials you need for this project are old 10 gallon propane tank for the foundry, air compressor tank for the waste oil burner, blower from a car , three eighth inch hose and a brake line for feeding waste oil from a bucket, 12V marine battery for powering the blower.
We take a car heater blower and house them inside an old tin can for the air intake. This is soldered to soup can and one and quarter inch schedule 80 pipe .This feeds air into the burner vessel.
The fuel source which is the waste oil is drip fed from a five gallon jug with a brass gate valve. It is connected to the blower pipe through a three eighth inch hose and a metal brake line.
The waste oil burner is from an old air compressor tank .It has a two inch cap on the top where we start the ignition and light the system. The pipe from the blower goes half an inch into the burner at an angle. This generates a cyclone vortex effect . We want to make sure that the oil and air are very well mixed together. In order to sustain combustion on something that’s so difficult to ignite like waste oil, we have to have a source of heat so it can actually atomize, turn into a vapor where it will burn very easily and very effectively.
The outlet from the burner is connected to the foundry propane tank through a three inch piece of axle welded with a rotating coupling piece. This can be rotated independently so that the foundry can be rotated to a forge mode with the help of a lever.
We mark and cut the top of the propane tank that essentially forms the body of our foundry. Next, we are going to need to put a lining on the inside , probably about two and a quarter inches thick. This acts as an insulator. Here we use a 50% mix of plaster of paris and play sand. The propane tank is filled with the mix and the air compressor is submerged in the center to form a mould. We let the tank sit for 24 hours to cure before we remove the air compressor out of it.
Next step is to create the hole into the side of tank that will be the outlet of our waste oil burner. The hole is cut at a height so that the the aluminum wont run down and back flow into the oil burner tank. We place a three inch axle through the hole that is welded to rotating coupling . This coupling attaches to the outlet of the oil burner.
One the other side of the propane tank ,we add a small lever system with a latch to manually put the foundry into a forge mode.
A one inch water pipe is connected to the tank .Inside of that one inch water pipe is this bit of one inch shaft with a hole drilled in to accept a three eighths inch bolt. A rebar with a latch mechanism is welded vertically to this pipe. The latch is pulled to pulled and the foundry is rotated into forge mode.
The foundry sits on a cradle during the forge mode .The cradle is made out of two inch flat bar. The frame is constructed from one and a half inch by one and a half inch angle iron that I had laying around.
To start the system , we use a little piece of rag cloth and poke it down into the inlet of the ignition port of the oil burner. We apply a little waste motor oil and start the ignition. Once the flame begins , we apply power to our blower motor by connecting it to the 12V battery.
- How to build a simple Homemade PVC Off grid River Pump to pump water from a river or creekThis project goes over the build of a river pump that can be used to pump water from a nearby river or creek anywhere you want without any external power.It works off of a circular tube, gulping air and water as it rotates. It works by harnessing the flow of the river and creating air pressure to push the water further.It pushes water out from the river and up through your hose system, which you can direct where needed. To use a river pump, all you need is a nearby river or creek that has flowing water and a location that is deep enough to support your river pump. Here are the parts needed for this water pump: A 3 inch to 4inch reducer A 4 inch to 6 inch reducer 40 foot ,3/8 inch tubing 3 inch socket to thread /cap Garden hose adapter Quick release couplings Six,four,two inch pipes Take your angle grinder and cut them to four pieces.Connect the pieces together using a PVC cement solvent and make it into a cone that steps down as it goes. A window screen is used as a shield on the back.So this design is supposed to be rather streamlined in order to keep debris and stuff from getting caught as the pump works The cap at the end of the cone is attached to the swivel piece. It needs to be able to swivel freely on top of this. The hose tightens into this metal swivel piece and gets locked down. Next is building fan blades for the front of this pump to spin it.Cut the PVC into 4 equal blades that is 8 inches tall. Bolt the swivel piece along with the blade we have just cut. Water comes flowing in and hits the blades that is attached to the rotating swivel, makes it move and rotate and then hits the next one in line. The end piece is attached to the the PVC cone that we made earlier.Next step is getting our 40 foot hose tubing to get inside the pipe and attach to the swivel end. Next step is wrapping the 40 foot hose around the pump .We need to wrap the hose in such a way once the water hits the swivel end,the hose has got to pick up water. The Garden Hose is connected to the swivel end of the pump.Place the system along the direction the flow of the river or creek.
- How to build a Simple Backyard Bio Sand Water Filtration System from easily available materials .This project goes over the build of an emergency cheap bio sand water filtration system. This can filter out your polluted water from your stream or lake or gutter. Bio sand filters are good for filtering parasites, bacteria, protozoa virus and fine sediments from well water. These work by doing four stages of purification. First is the biological zone where bacteria eats your parasites and pathogens viruses. That happens on the surface of the bio zone. The second is mechanical trapping where sediment can be attracted to porous rock, and it will filter out sediment absorption, third one is absorption where the electrostatic charge which will attract small particles and viruses down to virus level and get attracted to this sand and last stage is natural death from nutrient depletion when there won't be anything for bacteria or virus to eat or thrive on when they start to go through the sand dairy of the filter. There is two five gallon buckets, one stacked on top of the other. These are black food storage buckets. These buckets don't tend to promote the growth of algae as much as the opaque buckets do. The top bucket is the water storage bucket, the top one is the filter. There is an eighth inch hole on the lid at the top bucket that allows water to flow freely without creating a vacuum. There is a 16th of an inch hole at the bottom of the bucket that slowly let the water drip out onto the top of the next bucket. The bottom bucket has 8 one quarter inch holes along the sides. This allows the water to disperse over the top ,they drip down to the these holes along the side of the bucket such that they dont disturb the biozone underneath. It'll take about three weeks to establish a bio zone. And during that three week period, you're going to have to continually feed some polluted water in there with bacteria in it to feed the bio zone to make it develop and grow. It would put a large circular ring in the center of your bio filter and distribute the bacteria off to the side. Now this filter relies upon bacteria that forms on the top of the sand to eat the other bacteria like Giardia and Cryptosporidium. A pipe at the center will prevent the sand from coming up into the faucet and getting into the drinking water. We here have two layers of sand. The bio zone is going to have a couple inches of fine sand on it to promote the growth of the bacteria. The course sand underneath will filter out sediment and other bacteria. Bottom layer is an inch of fine and pea gravel. The second stage of this filter starts with the build of a 4 way distribution pipe made of PVC pipes and a four way coupler. We cut holes in these pipe ,one towards the end and the other towards the center. This will distribute the water over the top of the bucket and so that the water isn't just going in in one spot and trickling down one side or down the center and not evenly distributing it over the top of the sand Drill a hole at the bottom of the 2nd bucket and put a quarter inch brass drain plug .This can be used to drain water out the barrels if I want to store them or to flush them out. We put put 3 levels of gravel and 3 levels of sand in the second stage. Put two to three inches of each layer of gravel. Add an inch of activated carbon on top of this fine gravel. Treat both the filter with chlorinated water and fresh water and let it sit for few minutes. Stack the second stage filter on top of the first stage. Make sure the whole setup is tightly sealed. Further purify the water by letting it sit under the sun. The ultraviolet ray purify the remaining bacteria that might be in there. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6bqYI1Z68jM
- How to build an Emergency Waste Oil or Used Vegetable Oil Candle from Old Nail Polish BottleThis project goes into the build of a simple and inexpensive waste oil/ used vegetable oil candle from an old nail polish bottle. You can burn motor oil ,vegetable oil, olive oil or you can also use lamp oil in these types of candles. The first thing your need for this oil candle is a reservoir to hold the oil in. Here we use a finger nail polish bottle. Next , a length of 100% cotton yarn is needed that is slightly longer than the length of the bottle. Another requirement is a one inch square piece of aluminum foil. The first thing you need to do to start this process is to take the bottle , clean it completely and fill it with your source of fuel like veg oil, waste motor oil, corn oil, olive oil . When you are pouring the oil, you don't want to go all the way up to the top of the bottle. Leave small amount of space at the top of the bottle. Take the aluminum foil and fold it length wise in half .Puncture a small hole in the middle of the foil . Through this hole, the cotton wick is pushed through. Lower the wick into the bottle and fold the aluminum foil around the neck of the bottle. This acts as a lid . Make sure that everything is folded down nice and tight around the bottle. Check the candle and see if this wick is wet. And if it is not , turn it upside down for a minute . The oil will then come into this wick and saturate it. Be careful that your aluminum foil doesn't fall off. If your cotton wick is a little bit longer, pull it up a little bit . This exposes the wet part of the wick. Take your scissors and cut the wick down just a little. Light the candle . When you first go to light them it takes a minute because you have to get everything warmed up. Let it burn a little bit. Make sure to not use a thick layer of aluminum foil for the lid. The aluminum foil will heat up and cause problems. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LbHFrvL99eA