This project goes over the installation of a homemade radiant floor hydronic heating system for the garage. The radiant floor heating uses a pex tubing that is installed along the floor of your garage or room . Hot water is passed through the tubing which radiates the heat out into the room or space.
The first step is to figure out what size pex coil tubing and how big of a water heater you would need . Also how many feet of tubing would allow enough heat to exchange into the concrete floor to sufficiently warm up the entire space. The total BTU/hour or heat required will be based on the square footage of your garage or room .
We begin by levelling the ground and start laying down a vapor barrier .The vapor barrier is made out of 6 Mil Visqueen plastic PE film .The barrier keeps the moisture from under the ground to rise up to the surface of the floor. We then lay a mixture of sand and packing gravel before installing the two inch extruded insulating polystyrene foam on the floor and the perimeter.
Four circuits of 800 ft half inch Pex tubing is stapled down on two inches of polystyrene insulating foam using a pex stapler. The eight tube ends are routed upto to a box from where it is connected to a manifold which is mounted on to the wall. The pex tubing with the supply and return tube is connected to the manifold with the help of a compression fitting .
To check if all the connections are OK or if there is any hole or leak in the tubing, connect the manifold to a 100 PSOI air pressure gauge to do a pressure test. Five inches of concrete is then poured over the pex tubing circuits. Saw cuts of less than an inch are made into the concrete to allow for the shrinkage during the curing process.
To insulate the pex tubing and to prevent water from entering into the floor, an expanding foam sealant is filled near the junction where the concrete meets the supply and return tubing near the manifold.
The heating components of this system are mounted on a 4 X 4 square sheet of plywood. The heater has a rating of 7.2kW . The heater is flow activated which requires a circulating pump to pump water through it which then activates the heater based on the temperature setting.
Two 120V fractional horsepower circulating pumps are used , one for running the water through the heater and the other circulates out through the pex loops. The pump has an inbuilt garden hose connector system used for draining.
The hot water coming out of the output end of the heater passes through a pressure tank which removes the air bubble with an air release valve and prevents any water hammer to the system.
This is further connected to the flow activated circulating pump for the heater with connections for filing and draining the system with the help of shut off valves. The water then comes down to a stainless steel manifold and then flows through the supply end of the pex tubing . The heated water splits into four supply loops at the manifold into the concrete floor.
The water then returns back to the return end of the manifold through the other four loops of pex tubing and goes straight through another circulating pump and a Y strainer filter before circulating back to the heater.
Two thermometers are connected at the supply and return end of the pipe to know the temperature difference of the outdoing water and the returning water. The flow is controlled by a thermostat and a switching relay that turns on the circulating pump .
- How to build a Homemade Archimedes Screw Turbine using PVC parts to generate Off the grid Power from a flowing river or stream/creekThis project goes over the build of an Archimedes Turbine that can generate off the grid power from a flowing river or creek. This is basically a screw that turns when water passes through the pipe. You need a 5 foot farming auger to build this. The farming auger is put inside of a 6 inch pipe and placed in the creek at a certain angle, water would pour into the auger and that water would weigh down that auger and turn it. And so as it turned, it would turn a shaft that is attached to the end of the pipe and run a pulley system with a motor to generate electricity. We take an old belt sander and shave some of the edges to make it smooth and rotate without any friction inside the pipe. We use an angle grinder to split the pipe down the middle and use the separator nuts to kind of give more space in the pipe. Make sure you don't split the pipe into two. Open up enough space on the top by heating the PVC and clamp 2 spacer boards on either side and stretch the opening by using a C clamp. 2 three quarter inch boards are bolted using carriage bolts on either side of the pipe which gives us enough room here to get the auger installed. Allthreads of size eight and quarter inches are put through the boards and secured in place with the help of some washers and non locking nuts. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GTD5Y7EyK00 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GTD5Y7EyK00 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jwIfrIgVqZc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=veb6xTz7Vhg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ul76_kG0xyI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v4I9Zfp62F8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oqt38fbsQaA
- How to Dig a Shallow Well from Start to Finish for offgrid homesteadingThis project goes over how you can dig your own shallow well using simple tools that you can get from your local garden store. The materials you need to dig and install a well are as follows. A customized Seymour AUA2 Post Auger to dig the hole. A Shovel is used to move the pea gravel and dirt out of the way. A Four inch casing PVC pipe that is going into the hole that is dug and this is going to hold the water until you need it. One and one fourth inch threaded adapter. This connects the bottom of the casing pipe to the foot valve. The foot valve is one and one quarter inch. This valve allows the water to come in and not go out. This helps to keep the pump primed. A water well pump pipe which is basically a one and one quarter inch PVC pipe. This will pull the water from the bottom of the well bringing it to your pump. The length of this pipe is going to be determined by how deep your well is. It should be at least a foot shorter than the depth of your well. You don't want this pipe sitting on the bottom because it would just be sitting in sediment and it will be clogging things up. A pitcher pump that has a one and one quarter inch threaded water inlet at the bottom. A closet flange. It makes mounting the pump to the top of your well four inch casing pipe very easy and it also helps keep things clean. Basically you would just set this inside you your four inch pipe, drill a hole out of the middle of a board, screw that to the top of this flange then mount your pump to the board that you have fastened to this. A one and one quarter inch threaded adapter. This will screw into the bottom of your pitcher pump and in turn, it will connect to the pipe bringing water to your pump from the bottom of the well. Teflon tape, PVC glue. Pea gravel - This will go down around the casing pipe of the well. The amount of pea gravel you need is determined by the depth of the well and water height. Quikcrete or aerated concrete to cap the top of the well. This prevents groundwater contamination and keeps stuff from finding a way to easily get into your well. To find the spot for the well, we use couple of coat hangers as dowsing roads. We take a drinking straw ,cut it in half and slide it over the coat hangers. This helps us in not using our hands or fingers influence while dowsing. Also it is easy to rotate the rods within the straws. The rods are kept parallel to the ground . If the rods cross each other , then mark the spot on the ground directly down the cross . This is the ideal spot for the well. The auger used for digging the hole for the well is modified from the default Seymour Post hole auger. We use a custom 5 foot 11 gauge one and half inch square tubing as the extension for the auger . The handle of the auger is a three foot three quarter inch pipe welded to a four inch 11 gauge square tubing. We start digging into the the spot that we have found earlier using the dowsing rods. Pay attention to the changes in the color of sand , because that can give you clues as whether you are getting closer to water. We extend the auger using the square bar tube once the auger handle is near the ground. Once you have hit wet clay, there is going to be suction around. We twist and pull at the same time to get the auger out of the hole in this situation. Next, we put the 20 foot PVC casing pipe into the hole . We cut slots using a reciprocating saw on the pipe one foot from the bottom of the well to the top of the water level to allow the water to flow into the well. Pea gravel is poured around the sides of the pipe all the way up to the slots . The remaining hole area around the pipe is packed with sand and clay. We seal the well by packing it around the sides with quickrete cement. This helps the water not to be able to run down into your well but around it. We lower the one and one quarter inch well pump pipe with the foot valve at the end into the PVC casing pipe. A four inch drain flange is secured on top of the casing pipe . A pitcher pump is then attached to top of the pipe. To prevent the pump from moving, it is bolted to the board where the flange is installed. To prime the well, we pour some water down through the pitcher pump. Pump out the dirty water until it is clean. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5rYPRMm8Arw
- How to build a simple and effective Multi Purpose Waste oil Aluminum Scrapping Foundry / Forge out of Scrap MetalThis project goes over the build of a convertible waste oil powered aluminum foundry / forge made out of recycled materials. Waste oil burning does get more than hot enough to melt down aluminum, which has a melting point of about 660.3 degree celsius. The materials you need for this project are old 10 gallon propane tank for the foundry, air compressor tank for the waste oil burner, blower from a car , three eighth inch hose and a brake line for feeding waste oil from a bucket, 12V marine battery for powering the blower. We take a car heater blower and house them inside an old tin can for the air intake. This is soldered to soup can and one and quarter inch schedule 80 pipe .This feeds air into the burner vessel. The fuel source which is the waste oil is drip fed from a five gallon jug with a brass gate valve. It is connected to the blower pipe through a three eighth inch hose and a metal brake line. The waste oil burner is from an old air compressor tank .It has a two inch cap on the top where we start the ignition and light the system. The pipe from the blower goes half an inch into the burner at an angle. This generates a cyclone vortex effect . We want to make sure that the oil and air are very well mixed together. In order to sustain combustion on something that's so difficult to ignite like waste oil, we have to have a source of heat so it can actually atomize, turn into a vapor where it will burn very easily and very effectively. The outlet from the burner is connected to the foundry propane tank through a three inch piece of axle welded with a rotating coupling piece. This can be rotated independently so that the foundry can be rotated to a forge mode with the help of a lever. We mark and cut the top of the propane tank that essentially forms the body of our foundry. Next, we are going to need to put a lining on the inside , probably about two and a quarter inches thick. This acts as an insulator. Here we use a 50% mix of plaster of paris and play sand. The propane tank is filled with the mix and the air compressor is submerged in the center to form a mould. We let the tank sit for 24 hours to cure before we remove the air compressor out of it. Next step is to create the hole into the side of tank that will be the outlet of our waste oil burner. The hole is cut at a height so that the the aluminum wont run down and back flow into the oil burner tank. We place a three inch axle through the hole that is welded to rotating coupling . This coupling attaches to the outlet of the oil burner. One the other side of the propane tank ,we add a small lever system with a latch to manually put the foundry into a forge mode. A one inch water pipe is connected to the tank .Inside of that one inch water pipe is this bit of one inch shaft with a hole drilled in to accept a three eighths inch bolt. A rebar with a latch mechanism is welded vertically to this pipe. The latch is pulled to pulled and the foundry is rotated into forge mode. The foundry sits on a cradle during the forge mode .The cradle is made out of two inch flat bar. The frame is constructed from one and a half inch by one and a half inch angle iron that I had laying around. To start the system , we use a little piece of rag cloth and poke it down into the inlet of the ignition port of the oil burner. We apply a little waste motor oil and start the ignition. Once the flame begins , we apply power to our blower motor by connecting it to the 12V battery. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l95fkSaaOEE