This project goes over the build of a simple and basic DIY chainsaw mill from start to finish. This chainsaw mill is portable and doesn’t require very large space . This is a very inexpensive way of producing lumber from logs and can be made from easily available materials from your local hardware store.
The materials you need to build this chainsaw mill are one by one square tubing, half inch square tubing, quarter inch flat bar, weld nuts, bandsaw and welding unit. The welder used here is Millermatic 212 auto set mig welder and the saw is Homelite 1130g
The dimensions of the saw are as follows. A 12 inch deck to slide across the log that acts as a milling surface. The max width of the mill is 26 inch. An 8 inch metal to grab the bandsaw on both the sides. A quarter inch flat stocks for the holding the saw.
We start by cutting 26 inch pieces for the sides and 12 inch pieces for the sides. Assemble them into a rectangle and weld it using a MiG welder. Do Check if the corners to make sure it is square and the sides are even.
A center bar welded into the rectangular guide plate, just to give it a little bit more support and make it so that it doesn’t twist.
Two guide posts are welded onto the sides. 2 larger pipe sections of dimension one by one is cut .This will slide within the guide posts. This is done so as to make the saw adjustable to how thick it cuts a slab .The side posts also gives you adjustability on the deck to move up and down.
4 quarter inch flat bars of length nine inches are cut . Two of them are bolted onto bottom section of the rails that slides up and down on the guide posts . The saw blade is placed securely between these bars. A small spacer block is welded onto the bars so that it doesn’t touch the saw blade. Three eighth inch weld nuts are welded onto the side posts . Tightening with the bolts locks the adjustable rails in place.
A crossbar is welded onto the guide posts .These help push the bar along when you are operating the mill and it is a nice place to put your hand , It feels like you are farther away from the chain.
The chain saw blade is inserted between the flat brackets at the bottom and it is locked tight in place between the spacers using 3/8th inch bolts.
For the first cut, we attach a flat plate at the top of the log so that the bar has something to ride. The height of the cut is adjusted with the help of the side rails on the mill . The saw is then started and placed on top of the flat plate to begin cutting the log.
- How to build a Super Efficient Portable Rocket Mass Heater from reclaimed and repurposed items and save up to 80% on your heating billsThis project goes over the build of a homemade efficient rocket mass heater which is portable ,uses less fuel and burns clean. This heater is made out of reclaimed and repurposed materials. The cool thing about a rocket mass heater is that it stays warm long long after the fire is out. The whole thing is powered by a rocket stove, which is a j shaped burn chamber. Fuel goes in the short side of the J, the fire burned sideways and the bottom of it. And then the draw is created by a tall vertical heat riser. The gases then come out of that chimney go all around the inside of the barrel, a lot of the heat is given off into the room right off of the barrel. That's your radiant heat source for the room. The barrel acts as that radiant heat source. The gases then go through a valve in the barrel down below and through a series of tubes that are encased in mass such as aircrete or cob .The gases are able to shed the heat into the cob. And the cob stores it as a thermal battery. The gases make its rounds through the tubes and goes out through the exhaust pipe. The rocket mass heater shown here is made of a burn chamber, heat riser, bench for containing the tubes , the exhaust pipe and an insulation refractory material like aircrete which is a high temperature cement mix. The burn chamber is made from an old sheet metal pressure tank and a stainless steel water heater tank. The pressure tank insulated with aerated concrete sits inside the water heater tank. The combustion or gasification chamber is connected to the heat riser chimney through a three inch pipe insulated inside a six inch pipe. This pipe is also insulated with a refractory mix. The vortex chamber is connected to this pipe. The vortex chamber is made from a saw blade and a left over piece of pressure tank material . It is insulated with the refractory material . Six glue stick 3/8th inch air holes are drilled at right angles around this refractory material that creates a vortex extra air suction effect .So as that heat comes up and creates a negative pressure up the riser, it swirls around the vortex chamber and enhances the burn. The initial combustion creates enough heat to release way more gases than it has oxygen to burn. By introducing a vortex air intake system, the burn output is amplified. For making the insulated heat riser, we are going to use an aerated concrete refractory material called aircrete . We make the mould for the four inch heater riser using a metal mesh fabric, sarnafil roofing material and a thin gauge wire. Then it is filled it clay sand up to to the top . We take this mould and put it inside the six inch stove pipe and pour aircete through the sides all the way up to the top and let them sit to cure. We pull the sand out of the center of the heat riser. And then eject the liner that went against the inner fabric webbing that acted as a mold for the aircrete. The Aircrete heat riser is installed on top of the vortex chamber .The heat riser is double insulated with a old water tank and an old 55 gal oil barrel. Also the water tank is insulated from the 55 gal barrel using some pea gravel .The insulated water tank has an outlet pipe at the bottom for extension into the mass bench . The exhaust pipe coming out the insulated heat riser has a two foot drop to a directional valve connecting two pipes ,one pipe acts as a flue chimney that goes out into the outdoors through the window, the other goes into the mass bench. The valve allows us to redirect the air to pass to the bench once the heat riser is all warm. The eight foot long wooden mass bench houses the six inch stove pipes coming out the exhaust of the heat riser. It has a mylar reflective insulation sheet on the floor. This helps prevent the heat escape through the floor .The mass bench is then insulated with pea gravel which absorbs the heat and holds it and slowly radiate out over a period of time. The pipe coming out of the bench goes out of the window through the valve. The flue chimney pipe that goes out through the window to the outdoors is made of double walled stove pipe. A five inch pipe is inserted inside a seven inch pipe. The space between them is insulated with a aerated concrete refractory material .All this insulated exhaust pipe is doing is taking and adding an element of acceleration up the chimney to negate the net negative you get from dropping two feet down into the bench from the heat riser. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1ZKm7QZ-dY
- How to build your own 24 X 24 Garage and save money. Step by Step Build InstructionsThis tutorial goes over the basic overview of a 24x24 , two 9 foot door,one side door window garage.First of all,you will need to take permission from the building inspector.The inspector makes sure that you are within zoning requirements.You will need the paperwork ,plot plan when you go to the building inspector and those are available from your assessor's office or the town hall or you may have one with your deed.Started with a bucket loader come in, take out some trees level off the area remove blushes and prep for the concrete work. The first step is to dig down and install the footings where the wall is kind of set.Here I have a four foot wall put in with the floating floor. Wall of the foundation is about six inches high, it goes into the ground four foot.And one reason that I wanted the wall foundation versus a flat pad foundation is because of the bug issues. After the footings are dry in a few days,the walls are put up and I have the openings for the two nine foot doors and a side door. After they dry for a few days,the floor screen is laid .This is a standard 4 inch thick flooring. Floating floor means that in reality, if the ground swells during the winter time, the floor can actually rise up and sink down. But it prevents it from cracking because it does have a little give to it. So it's not actually connected to this wall. It's poured right up against it, but the floor is a separate piece by itself. When the walls are poured every four foot they have a half inch threaded rod that's embedded into the concrete while it's still wet, it goes down about maybe a foot and a half has an L shape on the bottom in the rod will stick up directly in the center of the 2 X 4. 2 inlets for underground wiring,a 50 and 130 amp circuit.Its buried four foot down through the PVC. The walls are standard 2 X 4, a double sill plate and a top plate those are the two that run horizontally. I use pressure treated against the concrete which will take care of the bug issues. The headers for the garage door is standrd 2X10,double up half inch plywood in the center. The plywood on the three sides and trusses are put up.The trusses are put upside down and they are flipped up.But once they're up there I marked the top sills where I wanted them nailed them and put braces across the top,measure and straighten them out. The first truss on the end of the building on both ends is called the gable end. It's a little different than the other main trusses.The trusses are 24 inch on center, which means that they're spaced 24 inches apart,unlike the walls which are 16. The roof and the sides are on half inch plywood.I also run some stringers down the center and off to the sides to help so they won't twist during a snowstorm.One thing that's very important is when you put up the plywood the very first piece that you put on is the most important piece of wood that you're going to put on this garage because everything references off that one piece.It has to be square to the gable end . When the first piece of plywood is put up, you install the plywood ties between the trusses and all that does is if the roof gets moisture from inside the garage,it will tend to flex.The ties help in keeping them nice and flat and avoid the bowing. The truss catwalk goes right down the center that stabilizes the horizontal bottom piece of the truss. The doors are framed and roof is made of standard architectural shingles.These shingles have more lifespan.Also added tarpaper on the roof.The wiring is through down the center of the catwalk. The finished garage and the build videos
- How to Install a Complete Micro Hydro Alternative Free Power Generation System for your Home.This project goes over the details on how you can setup and install a 300W Off the grid Micro Hydro System for your home . The water source mentioned in this project have a flow rate of 15 - 30 gallons a minute and the drop between the source and the house is about 150 feet. The first step is to make an intake angled screen box for the system that helps in channeling the water from the source. The aluminum screen on the top blocks leaves, sticks and other debris to pass through into the box . The box is made of a 24 inch 2X10 ,2X4 and an 2X8 angled piece treated lumber. We add 3 one and quarter inch attachment points on the lower side of the box for the hdpe poly pipes. The box is secured using exterior screws on the outside and inner tubes on the seam to prevent leaks. The box is installed on the creek with help of couple of three and half inch concrete anchors and two boards are screwed on both the sides for support. The outlet poly pipes from the intake screen box goes to 55 gallon plastic barrel which acts as a silt catchment and also an air free source. The 3 outlet pipes are connected to the top of the barrel with the help of uniseal rubber gaskets. A 2 inch pipe is installed midway on the tank for the penstock. We also install an overflow pipe near the top of the tank to take the extra water out and a three inch cleanout pipe at the bottom . The cleanout pipe can be unscrewed to remove the silt and debris out. To take the water from the intake to the turbine, the penstock used here is a 100PSI 1100ft 2 inch poly pipe. A threaded adapter is glued to the outlet coming out of the barrel. It is then connected to a two inch full port shutoff ball valve followed by an another threaded adapter and a pipe. The penstock poly pipe is attached to this pipe using barb fittings with hose clamps. Next step is to install the pressure gauge and the surge tank to our penstock pipe. Water will come down through the poly pipe into another PVC pipe fitted with a pressure gauge, surge tank, two inch closing ball valve and a union to remove the turbine from the pipe. The surge tank is made of a standpipe that will prevent any water hammer affecting the pipes. The two inch poly pipe coming out from the barrel is connected to the two inch PVC surge tank and pressure gauge using regular . If the main shut off valve is suddenly closed, this tank will allow some of the surge to be absorbed. Next step is to build a housing for the micro hydro turbine. It is going to have a lid that opens up and a drain field pipe that goes out back to the creek. The housing for the turbine is made of three quarter inch plywood that is 2 X 2 foot wide and one foot tall. The turbine sits inside the hosing in the middle with the help of some 2x 4 scrap wood and a bucket lid piece. Then a 3 inch exit pipe comes out of here down through the middle of the housing .This drain pipe keeps the water from piling up under the turbine. The Micro Hydro Turgo Turbine is custom built based on the head pressure and the flow rate of the water source. It has three ball valves and four quarter inch jet nozzles coming out of them. The ball valves can be separately turned off when there is not enough water .The turbine is wired up to be three phase. The water coming out of the penstock hits jet nozzles that turns the Pelton wheel which is connected to 3 phase AC motor. To connect the turbine to our house, we use a 10/3 underground feeder wire. The wire is enclosed in a one inch conduit pipe. The proper way to install wire into a conduit is to get your conduit all glued together. And then you have a vacuum that pulls a string through. You tie your string to the wire and then pull the wire through the conduit. The wire goes into the house through a PVC conduit body. We install a junction box on the housing of the turbine to join the 3 phase turbine output wires to the 10/3 UG feeder wires coming from the house. Inside the house, we connect a rectifier to the three legs of the three phase coming from the turbine .This converts the AC generated into DC power. To generate useable power from this micro hydro system we need to install certain electrical devices in our houses. These include the MPPT Charge Controller, Grid Tie limiter Inverter, breaker box, disconnect switches and the batteries. These components are mounted on a 2 X 2 foot ,three inch plywood board. In case there is some excess heat for one of these electronics at some point, we cover the plywood board with a piece of sheet metal so that it will act as a heat sink. From the rectifier, the connection goes into a 25amp breaker box .The red wire goes into the breaker box and then further connects to positive of the charge controller. The negative white wire is directly connected to the negative of the charge controller. The five 12V AGM batteries are connected in series using four gauge cables. The positives from the batteries are connected to the charge controller and the inverter via DC switches .These switches allows us to isolate and disconnect the components individually. The negatives from the batteries are connected to the negatives of both charge controller and inverter respectively. The inverter is further connected to receptacle from where it goes straight to the main supply. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLTrfbWw_mKRL5Ae_x1Q4-1pOs0NJGwnzi