This project goes over the build of Double Barrel Stove out of two old scrap water heaters for the shop.
The first step is to disassemble both the old electric hot water heaters to get their tanks out.
Take a grinder and cut a section off from the top of the water heater tank. This tank will become the bottom tank. Remove any calcium and mineral that ends up developing deposits inside the bottom of the tank.
Take a 12 gauge plate steel and put our top drum upside down and scribe a circle out of them from the end and cut it. Weld the steel piece onto the drum. You need to do the same for the other drum too because with these double barrels, you are basically making two stoves, just connecting them in the middle.
Now both the top tank and bottom tank ends have been polished and cleaned .Remove any insulations, paints and glues from them if they have any. Make sure all the rough pieces on the tank are welded on ground down.
Cut a small piece of pipe that acts as stack between the 2 tank.
Next step is to add a small support bracket on the top of the bottom tank that will help support the top tank.
Cut a hole on the bottom tank .This will be where the stack goes between two of them. Fill the drain plug down at the bottom .
Take the top tank, cut and weld the top exhaust stack that will be six inch outlet for the smoke.
We also add a six inch inlet that goes up to the top that forces your your smoke and the gas has to go across the length of the barrel. The bottom barrel will be connected to this.
Both barrels are welded together, the bottom barrel is welded onto the mid stack which connects the top barrel with the exhaust stack. In order to support the barrels, we take the scrap pipes lying around and make legs as a support structure for the stove.
Next is the door fabrication. We cut a hole for the door in the bottom barrel. A couple of hinges, door catch are welded on to this end. An air inlet pipe is threaded onto a plate. The whole unit is then attached to the door. A handle is attached to the inlet pipe so you can open and close whenever you want to control the flow of the air intake.
- DIY Video : How to Repurpose an Old Water heater into a Foundry Furnace. Easy to build,Heat up quickly and efficientThis Video series shows how to Repurpose an Old Water heater into a Foundry Furnace.This is a great way for the do-it-yourselfer to build a foundry furnace that will last a long time, heat up quickly, be fuel efficient, easy to build, and not break the bank!.The materials needed for this build are Old Water heater,Non-firing refractory,100HT ceramic coating,Ceramic blanket.
- How to build an Off grid Rocket Mass Stove Hot Water heater using Copper Coils, Clay ,Sand. Also works as a cooktop!!!This project goes into the build of an off grid rocket mass heater for heating water without propane or electricity. This system also doubles as a cooktop. This rocket stove is really efficient and can create tremendous amount of free heat from little pieces of wood. The materials you need to build this rocket mass heater are copper coil , PVC pipes to make mould, clay and sand mixture, a frame for support, storage tank or drum ,oil, wood as fuel. The stove sits on a frame made from a wooden piece. Here an old chair is used as a base for support. The cob mixture made from clay, sand and water is poured on top of the frame as it is raised up. The next step is make hole for the air intake at the base of the stove. Also another hole is made for fuel intake at an angle to the base. We use PVC pipes as mould to make these holes. We lubricate the pipes with oil before covering them with mud so that they can be easily removed once the mould has been set and dry. A half cut lubricated PVC pipe is placed at the base of the support frame in front of another PVC which forms the body of the stove where the copper coil is wrapped. We start covering the PVC pipes with clay and sand mixture around the junction where the pipes meet. Once the mud has been filled and raised up , another PVC pipe at an angle is placed for the fuel intake. The copper coil is inserted into a well greased up PVC pipe . This section acts as the burn chamber where the coil gets heated up with the water inside. The coil is extended at the ends for the intake and the outlet .The bottom side of the coil is the intake of the cold water and the top for the hot water outlet. Fully pack the area around the copper coil and sides of the PVC pipe with the clay mixture such that the copper coils are completely covered . Pack the clay till you reach five to six inches above at the end of the pipe . This is done so that the top can be used for cooking or boiling. Once the clay and sand mixture is completely dried and set, we slowly take the PVC pipes out. Dig out the back end of both the holes so that all of them are connected to form a elbow shaped hole. The intake and the outlet copper tube is then connected to a water storage barrel. The intake pipe is connected near the bottom of the barrel where the cold water settles and the upper end of the copper coil is connected at the top where the hot water is collected. So the cold water that flows into the rocket stove, gets heated through the copper coil, and then due to the thermosiphon effect and natural convection ,the heated water is pumped through the other end of the coil on to the top of the barrel and this way the water is recirculated without the help of any external source. The cold water natural sinks down due to its higher density .The hot water becomes less dense once its heated , therefore it expands and rises up the coil to the water storage tank. Make sure that there is a height difference between the rocket stove and the water storage tank . The rocket stove always should be installed below the storage tank so that cold water naturally descends down into the stove and there is no backwards flow . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EUnQVIlAn6M
- How to Install a Complete Micro Hydro Alternative Free Power Generation System for your Home.This project goes over the details on how you can setup and install a 300W Off the grid Micro Hydro System for your home . The water source mentioned in this project have a flow rate of 15 - 30 gallons a minute and the drop between the source and the house is about 150 feet. The first step is to make an intake angled screen box for the system that helps in channeling the water from the source. The aluminum screen on the top blocks leaves, sticks and other debris to pass through into the box . The box is made of a 24 inch 2X10 ,2X4 and an 2X8 angled piece treated lumber. We add 3 one and quarter inch attachment points on the lower side of the box for the hdpe poly pipes. The box is secured using exterior screws on the outside and inner tubes on the seam to prevent leaks. The box is installed on the creek with help of couple of three and half inch concrete anchors and two boards are screwed on both the sides for support. The outlet poly pipes from the intake screen box goes to 55 gallon plastic barrel which acts as a silt catchment and also an air free source. The 3 outlet pipes are connected to the top of the barrel with the help of uniseal rubber gaskets. A 2 inch pipe is installed midway on the tank for the penstock. We also install an overflow pipe near the top of the tank to take the extra water out and a three inch cleanout pipe at the bottom . The cleanout pipe can be unscrewed to remove the silt and debris out. To take the water from the intake to the turbine, the penstock used here is a 100PSI 1100ft 2 inch poly pipe. A threaded adapter is glued to the outlet coming out of the barrel. It is then connected to a two inch full port shutoff ball valve followed by an another threaded adapter and a pipe. The penstock poly pipe is attached to this pipe using barb fittings with hose clamps. Next step is to install the pressure gauge and the surge tank to our penstock pipe. Water will come down through the poly pipe into another PVC pipe fitted with a pressure gauge, surge tank, two inch closing ball valve and a union to remove the turbine from the pipe. The surge tank is made of a standpipe that will prevent any water hammer affecting the pipes. The two inch poly pipe coming out from the barrel is connected to the two inch PVC surge tank and pressure gauge using regular . If the main shut off valve is suddenly closed, this tank will allow some of the surge to be absorbed. Next step is to build a housing for the micro hydro turbine. It is going to have a lid that opens up and a drain field pipe that goes out back to the creek. The housing for the turbine is made of three quarter inch plywood that is 2 X 2 foot wide and one foot tall. The turbine sits inside the hosing in the middle with the help of some 2x 4 scrap wood and a bucket lid piece. Then a 3 inch exit pipe comes out of here down through the middle of the housing .This drain pipe keeps the water from piling up under the turbine. The Micro Hydro Turgo Turbine is custom built based on the head pressure and the flow rate of the water source. It has three ball valves and four quarter inch jet nozzles coming out of them. The ball valves can be separately turned off when there is not enough water .The turbine is wired up to be three phase. The water coming out of the penstock hits jet nozzles that turns the Pelton wheel which is connected to 3 phase AC motor. To connect the turbine to our house, we use a 10/3 underground feeder wire. The wire is enclosed in a one inch conduit pipe. The proper way to install wire into a conduit is to get your conduit all glued together. And then you have a vacuum that pulls a string through. You tie your string to the wire and then pull the wire through the conduit. The wire goes into the house through a PVC conduit body. We install a junction box on the housing of the turbine to join the 3 phase turbine output wires to the 10/3 UG feeder wires coming from the house. Inside the house, we connect a rectifier to the three legs of the three phase coming from the turbine .This converts the AC generated into DC power. To generate useable power from this micro hydro system we need to install certain electrical devices in our houses. These include the MPPT Charge Controller, Grid Tie limiter Inverter, breaker box, disconnect switches and the batteries. These components are mounted on a 2 X 2 foot ,three inch plywood board. In case there is some excess heat for one of these electronics at some point, we cover the plywood board with a piece of sheet metal so that it will act as a heat sink. From the rectifier, the connection goes into a 25amp breaker box .The red wire goes into the breaker box and then further connects to positive of the charge controller. The negative white wire is directly connected to the negative of the charge controller. The five 12V AGM batteries are connected in series using four gauge cables. The positives from the batteries are connected to the charge controller and the inverter via DC switches .These switches allows us to isolate and disconnect the components individually. The negatives from the batteries are connected to the negatives of both charge controller and inverter respectively. The inverter is further connected to receptacle from where it goes straight to the main supply. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLTrfbWw_mKRL5Ae_x1Q4-1pOs0NJGwnzi