This project goes over the build an efficient clean burn multi use ammo can portable rocket stove . Easy to build , small ,portable , leaves no smoke. The reason it is smokeless is because it uses a secondary burn system . Also can be used as a cooking stove.
The first thing you need is an old NATO ammo can. Remove the rubber seal that sits around the top of the can and replace it with a stove rope. The stove rope gets compressed when you close the stove with its closing mechanism and the smoke wont escape from around there.
One the top, we have the flue made out of 2 inch stainless pipe .It has two sections, upper section slides onto the lower section. In order to build the flue, we take the top of the ammo can, then place the pipe on top and draw around it that gives the circumference. Take a grinder and simply cut across the shape.
In order to get a smoke tight seal, we wrap some stove rope around the flue area we just cut and then insert the pipe and use a jubilee clip around the bottom and compress it against the stove rope.
Once this gets up to working temperature, it draws cold air in from down below and expels it out at the top. So all the smoke from the stove gets drawn upwards.
We use 2 turnbuckles as a stove door closing mechanism. There are two closing mechanisms on this door. One is a quarter turn latch. So you rotate it, the door opens ,you close and then you rotate it and it locks the door closed. Another mechanism is using a long piece of metal. You can turn each of these a quarter turn and that locks the door extremely tight to fit these turnbuckles .
The stove baffle plate is made out of 0.8mm thick thin steel. To make it, measure it up against the stove and bent the steel into that shape. The baffle helps in generating more heat as it keeps the air from escaping the burn chamber.
A secondary pipe made of galvanized steel pipe comes from back of the stove and comes across the stove through a small hole. The pipe has been drilled with small holes. When the stove is in operation, this draws in cold air from outside, it gets pre-heated on the way down across the burn chamber. And then the pre-heated air rises and is expelled naturally through these holes.
And since this pipe is just under the baffle plate, it reignites the smoke and the smoke is burnt on the way across the upper section of the stove.
The stove is insulated using fibreglass and stainless steel from three sides inside, helps in efficient secondary burn. You just need enough insulation to get the temperature high enough to get secondary burn. If the whole stove is insulated then the heat would dissipate through the flue instead.
The bottom of the stove is insulated using half inch rockwool and on top we have some chicken wire that stops the burning fuel from sitting on the bottom of the stove and being starved of oxygen. It allows the oxygen to get underneath and burn all the way around the wood efficiently.
The primary air is drawn in through an air intake at the side of the stove. To attach it to the stove, bend the pipe around the side and place a jubilee clip and stove rope around to insulate it. So when the stove is in operation, you can add sticks, twigs, pellets or anything you want without opening the door.
Burn Video :
- DIY Video : How to dig your own shallow water well for the gardenThis project goes over the instructions on how you can dig your own shallow hand pump water well using simple tools and save a lot of money. Before digging the water well, you need to know the ground. You got to have the right soil for this system to work. If your soil type is silt, clay, sand or loam, then its ideal .In our case, we have the first 10 or 12 feet of fine glacial silt and below that there is glacial deposits of river gravel. The first step is to dig a hole for the well casing. The tools you need to dig the hole are six inch post hole auger , three quarter inch extension pipe with coupling at the end and couple of wrenches. Once you have spotted the area where you want to dig the well, you start by applying downward pressure on the auger by twisting it. It screws itself into the earth filling its basket with material. When it's full, you pick it up and dump it aside or in a wheel barrel. Sharpening the auger can help it cut through tree roots but it will not stay sharp long. It is important to do your best to keep the hole centered. Once the bottom is reached, we pull out the auger and remove the basket from the handle and insert one of the extension using the pipe wrench. The next part is getting the casing down the hole. For the casing we are using a cheap and readily available six inch PVC sewer pipe. We use a rasp to smoothen the end of the pipe so that it fits a cap . A round piece of PVC flat stock is bolted and glued on top of the cap using a PVC glue. This becomes the mounting base for the pitcher pump. To get started with driving the well point, we need a long piece of 10 foot pipe and a sandpoint, a couple of drive couplings. The drive couplings are steel rather than cast which makes them stronger. But most importantly, they have that small diameter so that they can slip down inside, making them not much larger than the diameter of the sand point itself. The sandpoint is made of perforated stainless steel and a cast iron point at the bottom. We connect the sandpoint and 10 foot pipes using the couplers and some Teflon tape. Now you don't want to hammer on your drive point or any of your fittings without them being quite tight because you need those extra threads to spread the load. We drive the whole thing with a homemade post hole pounder which is a gooseneck trailer hitch ball welded into a piece of pipe. We insert the sandpoint with the extension into the well casing and start drilling by hand. We are gonna find out how far down that water is by dropping a string with a bolt tied to it to the very bottom. We finally attach a black ABS suction by sliding it down into our pipe .Then we cover the pipe with our PVC casing . And once the casing has been firmly tamped down, we will pack around the casing and tap that into place. The final step is to install the pitcher pump and prime it by add some water. The top cap is installed on the casing opening and the pump is bolted to the top of the cap. Priming the pump simply entails pouring a little water in that top basin. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9mG4j4I13y4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6p5ked9gKuQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=334mj68JU0I
- How to build a Portable 420 watt Solar Power Generator . Very Detailed Video Instructions,perfect for beginnersThis project goes over the build of a 240W Solar Generator made out of an ammo box.The box is large enough to hold a 240 watt deep cycle battery. There are some basic tools that you are going to need to build this generator.Number one tool, you're going to need a drill. If you don't have a drill, you can find one at Home Depot, you don't have to spend a lot of money.Next thing you're going to need is a screwdriver. Next, you're going to need wire cutter, a wire cutting and stripping tool. And it's also got a crimper on there. To drill the holes in the metal ammo box,you need a step up drill bit which can drill different sized holes, using all the same drill bit.You will need a pair of pliers which might be handy when you are cutting and manipulating wires and then basic wire cutters which also we have on the pliers. The next thing that you're going to need is the heart of the generator, which would be the battery. Now this is a rayovac deep cycle battery.I recommend that you use a V max deep cycle battery. The next thing you're going to need is a USB port. This is a two port device, it's got a one amp outlet and a 2.1 amp outlet.You're also going to need a 12 volt outlet. Faceplate,blade fuse holder,terminal connectors,switch,self tapping screws,14 gauge 17 amp black and red wires. We use a 3 prong switch,one of them gold in color which is the negative terminal and the other two positive.Purpose of the switch is to control your USB outlet. And it's what turns the USB outlet on and off. The positive terminal on the USB outlet is first going to run to the positive terminal on the switch.Now the purpose of this switch is to break the electrical current when you turn it off. So positive terminal goes to positive terminal, then the second positive terminal on that switch goes to the positive terminal on the battery. So you've got a flow of electricity going from positive through this switch to the positive terminal on the USB port. The negative terminal on the switch goes to the negative terminal on the battery. The only purpose of that terminal is to control the LED light on the switch, it needs the both positive and negative electrical currents in order to turn that light on. Similarly for the 12V port,positive connector going to positive terminal going to the positive terminal on the battery. Lets start the build. Start with drilling holes for the ports using the faceplate.Get your marker and simply trace the inside from both the top and the bottom.So that's where your holes are gonna go. Now we want to find the exact centers that when we're drilling. Insert the 12V and the USB outlet into the holes which we have just drilled. Now these ports have a little ring that screws on the back. This is what holds it in place. Next thing we're going to install is the power switch and SAE Solar Power Socket and the voltmeter. To begin wiring our tabs batteries, you're going to need a few things. Number one, you're going to need a battery. Number two, you're going to need your quick disconnects. You're going to need your squeeze connector connector,your wire cutters and stripping tool and you're going to need black and red wires. Place the vmax battery into the ammo box.So we've got everything in place, we have our ports in place, we have our battery in place, we've got our switch in place, and our volt meter. We're gonna start by wiring the USB port. The positive connection of the USB port is connected to the positive of the switch which is further connected to the positive of the battery.The negative connection of the USB is connected to the negative of the battery. This switch will break the flow of electricity on the positive side and that's what's going to turn our USB port on and off. Using squeeze connectors,USB port negative terminal is now connected to the same negative terminal as the 12 volt port.Connect the positive terminal from the switch to the positive wire which is coming from the 12 volt port and continue that positive flow from the switch to the positive terminal on the battery . So we now have our USB port and our 12 volt outlet connected to the battery through the power switch. We've got the negative terminal of the USB port, going to the negative terminal on the battery, we have the positive terminal of the USB port.Then we've got a positive going from the switch to the positive on the battery all through quick disconnects. The negative terminal on the battery going to the negative terminal on the switch simply allows the switch LED light to turn on without this negative current flow of electricity. This the LED light has no power.So we want to give that light power by connecting to the negati.ve terminal on the battery. The negative of the Voltmter is directly connected to the battery and using insulated clamps,we connect positive wire that's already running to the switch for the USB port.Now we want to connect to the positive wire leading to the positive terminal on the switch so that the volt meter will turn on and off with the switch button. Next, we're going to cover the SAE port. We want to be able to have the battery charged when we plug this into a charger.Using the squeeze connector we connect the positive to the positive terminal of the battery.And then same thing for the negative, you would take your squeeze connector and connect to the negative. Lastly,A 15amp fuse is used to protect the generator from overloading. If you connect at current that is too high for their internal wiring to handle, the fuse will break and it will stop all electrical current from flowing.So if anything goes wrong in any of this wiring, it has to get past the fuse before it reaches the battery. So if there's anything that's that's overheating, or overloading this fuse is gonna blow and it's gonna protect your battery from being damaged . Next step is connecting a solar panel to your generator .We connect the panel to the charge controller and then from the charge controller to your ammo generator. A charge controller prevents the battery from overcharging. You don't want to get over 15 volts. Here we use Renogy 30 watt solar panel, this panel comes by default, with an SAE connector on the back. This is the same kind of connector that plugs into your generator. Connect the wires coming out of the Solar Panel into the charge controller.Next is connecting the SAE cord from the generator to the charge controller. So you just put the panel on the charge controller, the charge controller into the generator, and you're done. If you want the whole system to be portable, say you want to be able to take your solar panel and your generator camping, you want to keep things as simple as possible, you could actually mount the charge controller directly onto the back of your panel. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MVVRPUHUMUo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DW6C-ZjmRzo
- How to build a Simple Homemade Wind Generator from Old Ceiling Fan ,Microwave Oven Parts ,Old TV Antenna and other free junkThis project goes over the build of a homemade wind generator built from random junk ceiling fan ,microwave oven transformer ,office chair, an old piece of a TV tower, and some random electrical stuff. The blades are also from an old ceiling fan .It is extended with some wood and fibreglass on it to make it stronger. A scrap piece of pipe is attached as a shaft to the hub of the turbine. An office chair frame which can move freely is welded to the pole/post of the turbine. This is welded to an old TV Tower. 4 magnets are glued on the hub. The frame of an old microwave oven transformer is cut .Its core is exposed and that is welded onto the brackets. The magnets pass over the transformer core and induction takes place creating electric current. We can use that current to charge a battery or to power lights or whatever. A multi transformer setup would generate more power. We hook up a rectifying diode to convert from AC to DC and some capacitors which can even out the voltage and give us direct current. Also a diode to block the current from the battery to go up back up to the generator. This set up can charge small batteries. A piece of sheet metal is welded onto the bracket of the ceiling fan. Four magnets are spaced apart and aligned along their respective poles in north-south directions and glued to the bracket using 2 part epoxy. To generate more wattage from the wind generator ,we use an old 120V DC lawnmower motor. Because we have multiple poles, we have magnets that are really close to the armature, this is a way better motor to use. The only downfall of this is that it has brushes, eventually it's the brushes are going to wear out, you probably get a few years out of it before you need to replace those. This motor would probably put out about 100 watts. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1k8aHz6xlXg