This project goes over how you can dig your own shallow well using simple tools that you can get from your local garden store. The materials you need to dig and install a well are as follows. A customized Seymour AUA2 Post Auger to dig the hole. A Shovel is used to move the pea gravel and dirt out of the way.
A Four inch casing PVC pipe that is going into the hole that is dug and this is going to hold the water until you need it. One and one fourth inch threaded adapter. This connects the bottom of the casing pipe to the foot valve. The foot valve is one and one quarter inch. This valve allows the water to come in and not go out. This helps to keep the pump primed.
A water well pump pipe which is basically a one and one quarter inch PVC pipe. This will pull the water from the bottom of the well bringing it to your pump. The length of this pipe is going to be determined by how deep your well is. It should be at least a foot shorter than the depth of your well. You don’t want this pipe sitting on the bottom because it would just be sitting in sediment and it will be clogging things up.
A pitcher pump that has a one and one quarter inch threaded water inlet at the bottom. A closet flange. It makes mounting the pump to the top of your well four inch casing pipe very easy and it also helps keep things clean. Basically you would just set this inside you your four inch pipe, drill a hole out of the middle of a board, screw that to the top of this flange then mount your pump to the board that you have fastened to this. A one and one quarter inch threaded adapter. This will screw into the bottom of your pitcher pump and in turn, it will connect to the pipe bringing water to your pump from the bottom of the well. Teflon tape, PVC glue.
Pea gravel – This will go down around the casing pipe of the well. The amount of pea gravel you need is determined by the depth of the well and water height. Quikcrete or aerated concrete to cap the top of the well. This prevents groundwater contamination and keeps stuff from finding a way to easily get into your well.
To find the spot for the well, we use couple of coat hangers as dowsing roads. We take a drinking straw ,cut it in half and slide it over the coat hangers. This helps us in not using our hands or fingers influence while dowsing. Also it is easy to rotate the rods within the straws. The rods are kept parallel to the ground . If the rods cross each other , then mark the spot on the ground directly down the cross . This is the ideal spot for the well.
The auger used for digging the hole for the well is modified from the default Seymour Post hole auger. We use a custom 5 foot 11 gauge one and half inch square tubing as the extension for the auger . The handle of the auger is a three foot three quarter inch pipe welded to a four inch 11 gauge square tubing.
We start digging into the the spot that we have found earlier using the dowsing rods. Pay attention to the changes in the color of sand , because that can give you clues as whether you are getting closer to water. We extend the auger using the square bar tube once the auger handle is near the ground. Once you have hit wet clay, there is going to be suction around. We twist and pull at the same time to get the auger out of the hole in this situation.
Next, we put the 20 foot PVC casing pipe into the hole . We cut slots using a reciprocating saw on the pipe one foot from the bottom of the well to the top of the water level to allow the water to flow into the well. Pea gravel is poured around the sides of the pipe all the way up to the slots .
The remaining hole area around the pipe is packed with sand and clay. We seal the well by packing it around the sides with quickrete cement. This helps the water not to be able to run down into your well but around it.
We lower the one and one quarter inch well pump pipe with the foot valve at the end into the PVC casing pipe. A four inch drain flange is secured on top of the casing pipe .
A pitcher pump is then attached to top of the pipe. To prevent the pump from moving, it is bolted to the board where the flange is installed. To prime the well, we pour some water down through the pitcher pump. Pump out the dirty water until it is clean.
- DIY Video:How to build a Super Efficient ,Multi Use Homemade Ammo Can Rocket Stove. Inexpensive,Portable and Leaves no smoke….This project goes over the build an efficient clean burn multi use ammo can portable rocket stove . Easy to build , small ,portable , leaves no smoke. The reason it is smokeless is because it uses a secondary burn system . Also can be used as a cooking stove. The first thing you need is an old NATO ammo can. Remove the rubber seal that sits around the top of the can and replace it with a stove rope. The stove rope gets compressed when you close the stove with its closing mechanism and the smoke wont escape from around there. One the top, we have the flue made out of 2 inch stainless pipe .It has two sections, upper section slides onto the lower section. In order to build the flue, we take the top of the ammo can, then place the pipe on top and draw around it that gives the circumference. Take a grinder and simply cut across the shape. In order to get a smoke tight seal, we wrap some stove rope around the flue area we just cut and then insert the pipe and use a jubilee clip around the bottom and compress it against the stove rope. Once this gets up to working temperature, it draws cold air in from down below and expels it out at the top. So all the smoke from the stove gets drawn upwards. We use 2 turnbuckles as a stove door closing mechanism. There are two closing mechanisms on this door. One is a quarter turn latch. So you rotate it, the door opens ,you close and then you rotate it and it locks the door closed. Another mechanism is using a long piece of metal. You can turn each of these a quarter turn and that locks the door extremely tight to fit these turnbuckles . The stove baffle plate is made out of 0.8mm thick thin steel. To make it, measure it up against the stove and bent the steel into that shape. The baffle helps in generating more heat as it keeps the air from escaping the burn chamber. A secondary pipe made of galvanized steel pipe comes from back of the stove and comes across the stove through a small hole. The pipe has been drilled with small holes. When the stove is in operation, this draws in cold air from outside, it gets pre-heated on the way down across the burn chamber. And then the pre-heated air rises and is expelled naturally through these holes. And since this pipe is just under the baffle plate, it reignites the smoke and the smoke is burnt on the way across the upper section of the stove. The stove is insulated using fibreglass and stainless steel from three sides inside, helps in efficient secondary burn. You just need enough insulation to get the temperature high enough to get secondary burn. If the whole stove is insulated then the heat would dissipate through the flue instead. The bottom of the stove is insulated using half inch rockwool and on top we have some chicken wire that stops the burning fuel from sitting on the bottom of the stove and being starved of oxygen. It allows the oxygen to get underneath and burn all the way around the wood efficiently. The primary air is drawn in through an air intake at the side of the stove. To attach it to the stove, bend the pipe around the side and place a jubilee clip and stove rope around to insulate it. So when the stove is in operation, you can add sticks, twigs, pellets or anything you want without opening the door. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BUz6Ai2yAxE Burn Video : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vd7RFwyQxrI
- DIY Video:How to build a Simple Battery Backup Power Station for Emergency PowerThis project goes over the setup of a simple battery bank for your offgrid applications. We use three AGM batteries, and they're about 245 amp hours each.Marine or deep cycle batteries also work. Dont get a car battery.Make sure that the batteries are about same age or they start bringing each other down. The wires are connected through the positive ports and negative ports of each batteries. The positive from the inverter is connected to the positive of the first battery .Negative from the inverter is connected to the negative of the 3rd battery. The battery chargers are from Pros Series DSR.It ramps up the optimum charging voltage. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zxvo3t898xI
- How to Heat your Home or Garage for Free by building Solar Air Heating Collectors that uses no electricity or batteriesSolar heat collectors are a good supplemental heating source that can provide homeowners with free heat for their home when the sun is shining. Solar collectors are a box like structure that capture the energy from the sun and convert it into usable energy for heating purposes. Inside the collector solar energy is simply converted into usable thermal energy. On the front side of the solar collectors . a clear panel or glazing material typically polycarbonate sheeting, single pane glass ,double pane glass face towards the sun and allow the sunlight into the collector box. On the inside of the collector box is a heat exchanger or a absorber. The heat exchanger or absorber is responsible for transferring the heat of the sun into a usable thermal heat source. The heat exchanger is suspended or attached inside the collector box and should be coated flat black with a high heat temperature resistant paint. The flat black paint helps to absorb the heat energy from the sun. It is very important to utilize a flat finish black paint inside the collector box. If the paint has a reflective coating, it will reflect the sun back outside of the collector, which results in lost potential energy. It assists with the entrapment of that heat energy rather than reflecting it away from the collector. Once the sunlight has penetrated the collector box through the glazing, the heat exchanger material and the flat black paint will absorb that heat and begin to warm the air inside the collector. As the air inside the collector and around the absorber warms, it will expand and rise. The expansion of warm air will naturally create a convection current. As the air inside the collector rises, it will continue to pick up heat through friction with the absorber. The air passing over and through the absorber is given more opportunity to gain heat by rubbing against that surface which is being heated by the sun. Now that the air is warm and picking up heat and needs a way to move through the collector box, we install two vents on the backside of the solar collector facing towards the room or space that we want to heat. Through the vent at the top of the collector, the heated air moves into the home , the vent at the bottom allows the cooler air to return back to the the collector. Having a return event at the bottom and a supplier event at the top of the solar collector allows natural convection process. The air inside the collector is picking up heat from the absorber and is naturally wanting to rise up and out of the collector. A natural force of air rising will induce a convection current, which will pull cooler return air from the room or condition space into the bottom of the collector box. The collector creates a convection current inside the room .It removes cooler dense air from the bottom of the room and takes it through the collector where it is warm, and then exhausts the heated air out of the supply duct back into the room. This project goes over the build of an entirely self contained Solar Air Heater using no grid power whatsoever. The unit draws the cold air from the room and exhausts hot air into the room using a 2 5V DC brushless 7 vane case fans. This fans are powered by a 16 Watt Amorphous solar panel. Both the intake and exhaust pipes ore of 5 inch diameter. 9 rows of 17 soda pop cans , a total of 153 355ml soda cans are used for the collector. The aluminum pop cans are painted with a flat black paint to ensure all sunlight is absorbed and not reflected. Also there is a five inch intake and exhaust manifold at the bottom and top of the unit. This ensures that all air travels through the interior of the aluminum cans. To maximize the heat transfer from the sun to air within a given space, we need to build a better heat exchanger. Solar air heating systems use air as the working fluid for absorbing and transferring solar energy. Transferring heat from one place to another by definition is a heat exchanger. When the sun heats the metal, the hot metal heats the air circulating over the metal of the heat exchanger. The job is to capture radiation from the sun and transfer this thermal energy to air via conduction heat transfer. Heat transfer output depends on the rise in temperature and the airflow. In order to minimize heat loss through the plexiglass , we keep the absorber temperature as low as usually possible. The cooler the absorber runs, the less heat will be lost out of the glass. A way to keep the absorber cooler while extracting the same amount of energy from the sun is to increase the airflow. To improve conduction heat transfer without significantly reducing airflow , we disturb the airflow within the solar air tubes . Four holes are put in some of the soda cans to create a baffle that increase the turbulence .These baffle cans are placed evenly across the tubes to distribute the airflow. We place the first baffle cans on the second row from the bottom with the intention of disturbing the airflow early. The second baffle will be located in the 10th can . In order to stack the empty cans, we make an assembly tray "V" shaped support structure using leftover baseboard. The cans are glued together using PL Premium construction adhesive that is water resistant, non shrinking and paintable. The soda cans are positioned on the loading tray and slowly rotated to evenly distribute the construction adhesive. The "V" channel made from baseboards holds the cans perfectly straight. The box for the Solar air heater is made of 5052 aluminum alloy sheets. The dimension of the box are 91 inches tall and 24 inches wide. We use a one inch flange and a metal bending brake to bend the aluminum to make the sides of the box. The top and bottom caps are bend to fit on the top and bottom of the box . When manufacturing the bottom caps, the distance between the bends is decreased by one millimeter to allow the caps to fit inside the solar air box to facilitate drainage. Next step is securing the aluminum box top and bottom .The procedure involves using a smaller diameter drill bit as a pilot and then drilling to final size for the rivet only after the two pieces are mated together. The pieces being held together via cleco fasteners. The function of the cleco is to temporarily hold material in the exact position during the manufacturing process. Two five inches holes are cut at both top and bottom on the box to install the plenums. The intake and the exhaust pipes for the two solar air heaters are manufactured from a single piece of five inch HVAC plenum. These are inserted and secured into the holes using construction adhesive. The back of the box is insulated using two sheets of half inch foam sheet. One sheet of half inch foam is installed on the sides. A pneumatic air file is used to cut the sheets. We install a snap action thermostat in the interior of the exhaust manifold, constantly monitoring the temperature of the air being brought into the dwelling. The intake and exhaust manifolds need to ensure that all air travel through the interior of the cans therefore it is important to have a good seal to each can. This also means that the manifold itself needs to seal well against the interior of the heat box. Nine holes are cut on a two sheets of half inch plywood to make the intake and the exhaust manifolds. These manifolds are secured in place against the cans using PL construction adhesives. The solar air tubes are held tight inside the box using two 1/16th half inch 6063 aluminum extrudes. These lightly applying pressure on the cans holding them firmly against the back of the heat chamber. Three separate coats of high heat black rest-o-leum paint are applied to the box , all within 60 minutes of each other. Clear silicon adhesive will be the primary method of adhering the Plexiglas to the solar air heater. After precisely positioning the glass on top of the heat chamber, I used a 1/8 inch pilot drill to go through the plexiglass. One full tube of silicone is used around the perimeter prior to laying the glass down. We install 2 16 Watt Sailflo Duct Exhaust fans with a capacity of moving 141 CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) for air . These are powered by a small solar panel. One blowing air into the chamber and one sucking air out. This helps to overcome the additional internal airflow resistance built into the design. The completed solar air collector is installed outside facing south to maximize the exposure to the sun. Once the solar air collector is installed outside , we take the temperature rise between the incoming and outgoing air while moving 141 cubic feet of air per minute from the fans . The calculate the amount of heat transfer we multiply the CFM and Temperature rise with a factor of 1.08. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL6YanwREcLx7h747VhKjJLClqvBmy5cF5