This project goes over the build of a homemade wind generator built from random junk ceiling fan ,microwave oven transformer ,office chair, an old piece of a TV tower, and some random electrical stuff. The blades are also from an old ceiling fan .It is extended with some wood and fibreglass on it to make it stronger.
A scrap piece of pipe is attached as a shaft to the hub of the turbine. An office chair frame which can move freely is welded to the pole/post of the turbine. This is welded to an old TV Tower.
4 magnets are glued on the hub. The frame of an old microwave oven transformer is cut .Its core is exposed and that is welded onto the brackets. The magnets pass over the transformer core and induction takes place creating electric current. We can use that current to charge a battery or to power lights or whatever. A multi transformer setup would generate more power.
We hook up a rectifying diode to convert from AC to DC and some capacitors which can even out the voltage and give us direct current. Also a diode to block the current from the battery to go up back up to the generator. This set up can charge small batteries.
A piece of sheet metal is welded onto the bracket of the ceiling fan. Four magnets are spaced apart and aligned along their respective poles in north-south directions and glued to the bracket using 2 part epoxy.
To generate more wattage from the wind generator ,we use an old 120V DC lawnmower motor. Because we have multiple poles, we have magnets that are really close to the armature, this is a way better motor to use. The only downfall of this is that it has brushes, eventually it’s the brushes are going to wear out, you probably get a few years out of it before you need to replace those. This motor would probably put out about 100 watts.
- How to build a Backyard Waste Oil Burner Powered Water Heater to produce Free Hot Water for your HomeThis projects goes over the build of waste oil powered free hot water heater for your home .This converts an old used domestic water heater to run on waste oil, engine oil or cooking oil. With as little as one liter of waste oil, this heater gives twice the heat output than a domestic electric powered water heater .As waste oil is free, this is more economical than running on gas or electric. The setup of this waste oil heater is very simple and easy. We have a waste oil burner that is placed under the domestic water heater. The burner is connected to a blower from a car. This blower is powered by a 12V battery charger . The burner is also connected to a drip feed waste oil pipe through a small pipe. The oil feed from a suspended tank, which gives it a gravity feed dribbles into the inlet pipe on the burner and it is simply blown into the burner by the force of the air from the blower. To control the oil flow ,we have a valve on the oil tank. The cold water comes into through the inlet hose at the bottom of the tank . From there burner just fires the heat up through the center of the heater as it would normally if it was gas fired. The hot water comes out from a outlet hose at the top of the tank. The waste oil burner is made out an old fire extinguisher bottle. The beauty of using extinguisher bottles is you don't have to worry about any flammable gases in them, and the metal seems to be quite durable. Make sure that the air and the fuel enter the bottle at a slight angle in order to create some swirling. This makes sure that the air and the fuel mix and will burn completely. And also that the bottle is kept hot so that the liquid oil will vaporize and the gas will burn. The inlet pipe for the waste oil and the blower is positioned at 25 to 35% of the way up to the bottle. The inlet pipe has a small bend in it so as to promote swirling within the bottle. This is important in keeping the bottle hot and self sustaining. The burner has a clean burn with almost no smoke. The output of the oil burner can be controlled by the amount of waste oil being dripped into the burner and by the amount of air blown into it. This oil gas burner is more powerful than a gas burner and the heat produced can overpower the heat sink threshold of the water heater . A vent line is installed on the system so that any build up pressure can be released. Apart from heating hot water , this set up can be used for space heating , pool heating or garage heating. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L4xq_GSjWLI
- How to build a Homemade Chainsaw Mill from Scratch. Step by step Build InstructionsThis project goes over the build of a simple and basic DIY chainsaw mill from start to finish. This chainsaw mill is portable and doesn't require very large space . This is a very inexpensive way of producing lumber from logs and can be made from easily available materials from your local hardware store. The materials you need to build this chainsaw mill are one by one square tubing, half inch square tubing, quarter inch flat bar, weld nuts, bandsaw and welding unit. The welder used here is Millermatic 212 auto set mig welder and the saw is Homelite 1130g The dimensions of the saw are as follows. A 12 inch deck to slide across the log that acts as a milling surface. The max width of the mill is 26 inch. An 8 inch metal to grab the bandsaw on both the sides. A quarter inch flat stocks for the holding the saw. We start by cutting 26 inch pieces for the sides and 12 inch pieces for the sides. Assemble them into a rectangle and weld it using a MiG welder. Do Check if the corners to make sure it is square and the sides are even. A center bar welded into the rectangular guide plate, just to give it a little bit more support and make it so that it doesn't twist. Two guide posts are welded onto the sides. 2 larger pipe sections of dimension one by one is cut .This will slide within the guide posts. This is done so as to make the saw adjustable to how thick it cuts a slab .The side posts also gives you adjustability on the deck to move up and down. 4 quarter inch flat bars of length nine inches are cut . Two of them are bolted onto bottom section of the rails that slides up and down on the guide posts . The saw blade is placed securely between these bars. A small spacer block is welded onto the bars so that it doesn't touch the saw blade. Three eighth inch weld nuts are welded onto the side posts . Tightening with the bolts locks the adjustable rails in place. A crossbar is welded onto the guide posts .These help push the bar along when you are operating the mill and it is a nice place to put your hand , It feels like you are farther away from the chain. The chain saw blade is inserted between the flat brackets at the bottom and it is locked tight in place between the spacers using 3/8th inch bolts. For the first cut, we attach a flat plate at the top of the log so that the bar has something to ride. The height of the cut is adjusted with the help of the side rails on the mill . The saw is then started and placed on top of the flat plate to begin cutting the log. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DA-HknSaBvI
- How to build a simple Homemade PVC Off grid River Pump to pump water from a river or creekThis project goes over the build of a river pump that can be used to pump water from a nearby river or creek anywhere you want without any external power.It works off of a circular tube, gulping air and water as it rotates. It works by harnessing the flow of the river and creating air pressure to push the water further.It pushes water out from the river and up through your hose system, which you can direct where needed. To use a river pump, all you need is a nearby river or creek that has flowing water and a location that is deep enough to support your river pump. Here are the parts needed for this water pump: A 3 inch to 4inch reducer A 4 inch to 6 inch reducer 40 foot ,3/8 inch tubing 3 inch socket to thread /cap Garden hose adapter Quick release couplings Six,four,two inch pipes Take your angle grinder and cut them to four pieces.Connect the pieces together using a PVC cement solvent and make it into a cone that steps down as it goes. A window screen is used as a shield on the back.So this design is supposed to be rather streamlined in order to keep debris and stuff from getting caught as the pump works The cap at the end of the cone is attached to the swivel piece. It needs to be able to swivel freely on top of this. The hose tightens into this metal swivel piece and gets locked down. Next is building fan blades for the front of this pump to spin it.Cut the PVC into 4 equal blades that is 8 inches tall. Bolt the swivel piece along with the blade we have just cut. Water comes flowing in and hits the blades that is attached to the rotating swivel, makes it move and rotate and then hits the next one in line. The end piece is attached to the the PVC cone that we made earlier.Next step is getting our 40 foot hose tubing to get inside the pipe and attach to the swivel end. Next step is wrapping the 40 foot hose around the pump .We need to wrap the hose in such a way once the water hits the swivel end,the hose has got to pick up water. The Garden Hose is connected to the swivel end of the pump.Place the system along the direction the flow of the river or creek.