This project goes over the build of an Archimedes Turbine that can generate off the grid power from a flowing river or creek. This is basically a screw that turns when water passes through the pipe.
You need a 5 foot farming auger to build this. The farming auger is put inside of a 6 inch pipe and placed in the creek at a certain angle, water would pour into the auger and that water would weigh down that auger and turn it. And so as it turned, it would turn a shaft that is attached to the end of the pipe and run a pulley system with a motor to generate electricity.
We take an old belt sander and shave some of the edges to make it smooth and rotate without any friction inside the pipe.
We use an angle grinder to split the pipe down the middle and use the separator nuts to kind of give more space in the pipe. Make sure you don’t split the pipe into two.
Open up enough space on the top by heating the PVC and clamp 2 spacer boards on either side and stretch the opening by using a C clamp.
2 three quarter inch boards are bolted using carriage bolts on either side of the pipe which gives us enough room here to get the auger installed.
Allthreads of size eight and quarter inches are put through the boards and secured in place with the help of some washers and non locking nuts.
- How to build an Off Grid Hydraulic Ram Pump that uses no electricity to pump water .Water is one of the most important resources you can have and to get water to the highest point in your property, so that you can store it and water your gardens and your animals and your orchards is incredibly valuable. This project goes over the build a water pump that can pump water uphill with no other external source of power except for the water flowing into it. If you have got a piece of land with an abundant source of water like a pond or a creek, a ram pump lets you get that water to a tank or a location at a higher elevation without using no electricity or fuel. A ram pump is essentially two one way check valves, one called the waste valve and the other called the delivery valve. To get it started, you just momentarily open the waste valve to allow water to flow. After that it's working on its own to pump the water uphill above the elevation of the source. The ramp pump works by the principle of water hammer. As the waste valve opens, water flows into the pump and immediately out the valve. But as it picks up speed, the flowing water eventually forces the waste valve to slam shut. Now the water is stopped in the pump, it had kinetic energy, but now it doesn't. That means that kinetic energy was converted into pressure. Slamming a valve shut converts all the kinetic energy nearly instantly, creating a huge spike in pressure which opens the second check valve and forces water entering the pump into the delivery line. An pressure tank is included in the pump to smooth out those sharp spikes and pressure and provide a more even flow rate out of the delivery pipe, reducing wear and tear on the pump components. Here we use a PVC cylinder as the pressure tank. As the delivery pipe is opened, it will allow a constant flow of water as the pressure builds. If you open the valve too quick, this will hold a certain amount of pressure in it so that the pump doesn't stop due to pressure loss. To get the water to the pump somehow from your source, you need to have a tube or pipe. This pipe is a called a drive pipe. This need to have head pressure or drop in elevation. The drive pipe has same size as the waste valve. The more rigid the material, the more efficient your pump will be. You can use steel or PVC pipe or flex tube. To get the water to our desired destination, we are going to have to have something called a delivery pipe. Here we are using garden hose as the delivery pipe. Here are the steps to assemble a one and quarter inch hydraulic ram pump. The parts you need to build this pump are : Six one quarter close pipe nipples - This allows the components to be screwed close together and not have any extra gap between. Two three quarter pipe nipples 2 One and a quarter ball valves 3 quarter threaded union 2 One and a quarter PVC union 2 threaded PVC tees - threaded on all 3 sides A threaded spring check valve - This has a spring on the inside. That allows water to flow through one direction and not the other. A bushing that goes from one and a quarter down to three quarter. A brass or stainless steel swing check valve - This is threaded on both ends. And inside there is a little lever that closes on a swing motion. Teflon pipe tape to make sure things are tightened up and couple of wrenches. The first step in the pump assembly is to take the Teflon tape and put it around these one inch and three quarter pipe nipples. This is done in a clockwise position such that whenever it is time to actually screw components onto this, we want to make sure that they do not unscrew or remove the Teflon tape. This pipe tape will allow the components to screwed together in a more fluid manner. And it helps to create a better seal in the components. Next step is take your one and a quarter ball valve and a pipe nipple and thread that together. Take the one and a quarter union and connect it to the other end of the taped nipples. Connect a tee to this unit with the help of another pipe nipple. Next is attaching a spring check valve to this unit. You need to make sure that the flow is pointing away from the components we just put together. There's an arrow on these that distinguishes the flow direction. Connect another PVC tee to the valve through a nipple. A threaded bushing is going to go on the end of that second tee. On that three quarter bushing, we are going to put one of the three quarter pipe nipples. From that pipe nipple, we are going to put the other three quarter inch union. A three quarter ball valve is connected to this end through another pipe nipple. We connect the swing brass/stainless steel check valve to the first PVC tee with the help of another pipe nipple. When connecting the check valve, make sure that the door or flapper is going to fall open from gravity. So it is going to screw on to this pipe nipple with the door hanging open. The second PVC tee is connected to the pressure tank with another pipe nipple. Make sure that both tees are facing in the same direction. To build the pressure tank for the one and a quarter pump, you need a four inch PVC schedule 40 pipe , four inch coupling, four inch socket to one and a quarter threaded bushing , a four inch cap , bicycle inner tube. Take your angle grinder and cut a 17 inch long pipe from the four inch PVC schedule 40 pipe .Once the pipe section is cut, it's time to assemble the pressure tank. Coat the inside of the coupling with a PVC cement and stick our 17 inch pipe inside .Make sure it is real snug in there . The other side of the coupling is connected to the threaded bushing. Next step is to insert the bike inner tube into the pressure tank .Grab it from the underside and pull it enough that we can attach my pump to it. Start filling the tube with the bicycle pump. Pump until the whole tube seems tight. Put the cap back on the top and seal them tight using pvc cement. The last step is to attach your pressure tank onto this threaded nipple that is connected the second PVC tee on the pump. Next step is installing the ram pump near the water source .This one and quarter inch pump requires around eight gallons per minute to operate. The amount of water that you get at the top is increased as the pump size goes up. So to start the pump, first you need to close the ball valve for the delivery pipe and make sure the ball valve for the drive pipe is opened. You need to just push the waste valve down until all the air inside the drive pipe is out. Water comes down this drive pipe and slams against the check valve to shut it down . It creates a pressure wave that gets shot back up the drive pipe .If the pressure wave finds an air pocket ,then the pump will stop. Start priming the pump by opening the valve manually couple of times until the pump starts to work on its own. After the pump has been running for a minute or two, you're gonna open up your delivery pipe valve out because the pressure tank now has enough pressure in it to push water uphill. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8Fy__ThqpQ
- How to build a Simple Homemade Wood Burning Stove heater with Heat Exchanger for your Garage .No Electricity required and Inexpensive…..This project goes into the build of a homemade wood burning heater with a heat exchanger for your garage . This heater is build from a recycled old propane tank . The other materials you need to build this heater are 55 gallon drum, fan blower, quarter inch steel plates , eighteen 2 inch steel pipes for the heat exchanger, welding unit, plasma cutter. Before cutting into the propane tank , make sure to clean the tank so that there is no residual gas left in it . Cut both ends of the tank using the plasma cutter. Now we cut a 30 inch length piece from the tank .This acts as a main body where the heat exchanger pipes are installed. The heat exchanger consists of 18 two inch pipes that run the length of the heater from front to back. Two quarter inch steel plates are welded at the ends of the propane tank . Before doing that we make 18 holes at both the ends of the steel plate. This is done to install the heat exchanger pipes across the length of the tank. With the help of an eighth inch hardboard, we make a template for cutting the 18 holes out of the steel end plates. The hardboard acts a guide for the plasma cutter to cut the holes. The pipes for the heat exchanger are cut 31 and half inches long. Half inch sticks out at both the ends of the heater. They are welded to the steel end plates at both ends. The opening for the door at the end of the heater for the wood intake has a dimension of 16 inch X 12 inch . A similar template is placed on the end plate and the opening is cut using the plasma cutter. A frame around the door is made using a three quarter inch by three sixteenths inch flat stock .This is used for the door opening and to give the door something to close up against. Hinges are welded near the door opening for attaching the door. The locking mechanism for the door to hold it shut is made using a flat stock and couple of bolts . The bolts are welded onto the flat stock and attached inside the heater just beside the door . The handle made of a 90 degree round stock is welded to couple of washers and the door is sandwiched in between. The end plates along with the door is welded onto the body of the heater at both the ends and a hole is made at the top of the propane tank body for installing the flue exhaust pipe. A small hole is cut near the door and a damper in the form of a simple sliding door is attached to the hole that will control the airflow into the heater. A section from old 55 gallon steel barrel is cut and welded onto the backside of the heater .An inexpensive fan blower is attached to this 55 gallon drum . This is installed to concentrate the air that is going through the heat exchanger pipes. The flue pipe is welded onto the top of the heater so that the harmful smoke and gases escape through the exhaust . A grate is placed into the heater through the door opening , wood pieces are introduced and the we start firing the heater. After few minutes , the fire will heat the heat exchanger pipes . The fan blower is turned on and the hot air is blown through the pipes into the garage . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-gwiT7Ps1F0
- DIY Video:How to build a Simple Homemade Pocket Straw Style Water Filter. Small, lightweight and powerful.This project goes over the build of an emergency Straw Style Survival Water Filter. This water filter is small, lightweight and ideal for an SHTF scenario or hiking/camping. Very effective for purifying rain or tap water or removing disease causing water contaminants. With regular maintenance the filter should last for years. The materials needed to make this water filter are turkey baster , cotton balls, coffee filters,activated carbon. All these materials can be purchased from your local store or aquarium supply stores. The activated carbon is rated to last for five months if used regularly. Start by taking a cotton ball and push it down the turkey baster. Rinse the activated carbon by running it through tap water before putting them over the cotton balls. Pour the rinsed activated carbon all the way to the top of the pipe and put two more cotton balls at the top . Now take some coffee filter paper and slide it over the top of the cotton balls and tie it down using a twist tie or rubber band so that the whole thing wont slip out when you are using it. If you don't have the cotton balls available, you can always just ball up some pieces of coffee filter paper and put them on either end of the activated carbon in between. An alternative way of using this is to cut the top of the poultry baster and and put it on the top of the straw . Take the dirty water and manually filter it through the straw. Once the material inside the filter gets saturated water moves pretty thoroughly through the straw. The cotton balls in the paper will get dirty pretty quick up here capturing most of the dirt but you can just pull those out periodically and add new ones. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zXJypLXwsiw