This project goes over the build of a Geothermal heat pump that takes the hot air in your garage and cool it down by transferring that heat into water .The cold water is pulled out of the ground through a shallow hand dug well and send to a heat exchanger inside the garage . A fan attached to the heat exchanger blows out the cold air into the garage . The heat exchanger absorbs the existing heat inside the garage . The warmed up water is then removed through an exhaust pipe.
Just a few feet down the earth is a consistent 55 degrees, summer or winter. Water at that depth is about the same temperature. To harness the cold water down below, we dig a shallow well. To do this we use a post auger and a 3 foot long well point that is attached to a 10 foot three quarter inch pipe using a drive coupling. We start by digging a hole using the post auger till the water table is reached and then start driving using the well point for additional two to three feet until it is submerged under the water table.
A two to three foot trench is dug from where the well is installed to the garage . A One inch poly pipe is connected to the well pipe using a barbed coupling and is buried inside the two foot trench all the way to a well jet pump .The trench is dug down at least two feet until you hit some hard pan clay that is about where the temperatures begins being more constant. This keeps the pipe cool under the earth.
The other end of the poly pipe coming out from the trench is connected a 1/2 HP Flotec Shallow well jet pump . The pump can be powered by a solar panel. The pump is kept outside the garage as it generates a lot of heat. If it is kept inside the garage, cooling effect from the water will be undone by the heat generated by the pump.
The output of the pump is connected to a three quarter inch copper pipe inside the garage. It is then further connected to a water pressure tank with the help of a brass tee and a union. A relief valve is also attached to the tee to empty the water tank if the pressure gets too high. A water pressure tank is used prevent the pump from failure .It also acts as a buffer storage.
The other end of the brass tee is connected to two pipes. One pipe goes outside the garage to a faucet and the other pipe is connected to a radiator that acts as a finned tube heat exchanger.
The heat exchanger captures the hot air surrounding the garage and stores the heat into the finned coils within the radiator .The heat is transferred to the water flowing through them . An exhaust line from the radiator carries this hot water to outside the garage.
Two flexible hose pipes connects the input of the heat exchanger to the water tank and output to an exhaust pipe. A box fan is placed in the front of the radiator to blow the cool air . The fan can be powered by Solar panels. Once the water starts running through the radiator , we start the fan
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- How to build your own DIY off grid / grid down Solar Power Back up system from scratchThis project goes over the build of a Solar Power Grid Down Backup System to generate your own alternative power.A great way to utilize renewable energy as a backup source of power. Whatever may be the reason , may be to offset electricity bills or for self reliance to provide when the grid goes down, a solar backup system is simply a great way to provide alternative power to maintain a lifestyle of reasonable convenience. If the grid should go down, I can have a freezer, power lighting, pump water, maintain communications, use tools, and charge every little device I have from flashlights to kindles. This Off grid Solar Power System is composed of 5 components. Solar panels to generate the power, a charge controller to charge the batteries, the batteries to store the energy, the inverter to provide AC to the household items you wish to power. Also you need a Kilowatt meter. The kilowatt meter measures two things you have to know how much energy your devices draw at any given moment, and how much power they consume over time. Here we use 100 watt monocrystalline panels, a 40 amp MPPT charge controller, a 1000 watt pure sine wave inverter and to store the energy, 446 volt golf cart batteries totaling 470 amp hours. First you need to size your system by figuring out how many devices you are going to want to run at the same time. This will determine the size of your inverter, the inverters function is to take DC power from the batteries and converted to AC power for use with household appliances. If I have 1000 watt inverter, this means I can run up to 1000 watts worth of devices at the same time. Once you have evaluated every device that you feel that you are going to need, should the grid go down, you are gonna have a good idea of how much power you need to generate each day. The battery bank consists of four, six volt, Duracell SLIGC 125, golf cart batteries connected in series. Golf cart batteries are designed to deliver a lower amount of power over a longer period of time and then recharge quickly. When picking a spot to locate your panels, you have to consider that the sun will be lower towards the horizon in the winter, and closer to directly overhead in the summer. Building a system that actually tracks the sun would be best as the panels are always pointed directly at the sun. Also mount your panels as close as possible to the batteries. This is because the longer your wire run, the more energy is wasted due to resistance. You also need to select the proper gauge wire to transmit the power from the solar panels to the batteries. Between the panels and the batteries is the charge controller ,it controls the charge of the batteries and make sure that the batteries get the proper voltage that they need and that they don't get overcharged. Here we use an MPPT Solar Charge controller. If your solar panels are wired in series and connected to an MPPT charge controller, the voltage adds up ,thus giving us enough voltage to charge the batteries. An MPPT charge controller can charge your batteries nearly the entire time The sun is out. If your panels are far away and you want to save money and wiring, then the MPPT charge controller is way more efficient than PWM. The first step in making your solar system safe is making sure that there's an automatic and a manual way to disconnect power in each segment of the system. Starting right here at the battery box we have a 300 amp manual switch to kill the power from the batteries to the inverter as well as a 200 amp fuse that will blow automatically. Another component to the safety is the grounding. Grounding your system is quite easy to do. So get an eight foot grounding rod and drive it into the ground. Then pick up some copper grounding wire, some lugs and connect the frames have all the panels in any metal components in the system including the charge controller and the inverter.