How to build a Homemade DIY Geothermal Heat Exchanger to Cool Your Garage

    This project goes over the build of a Geothermal heat pump that takes the hot air in your garage and cool it down by transferring that heat into water .The cold water is pulled out of the ground through a shallow hand dug well and send to a heat exchanger inside the garage . A fan attached to the heat exchanger blows out the cold air into the garage . The heat exchanger absorbs the existing heat inside the garage . The warmed up water is then removed through an exhaust pipe.

    Just a few feet down the earth is a consistent 55 degrees, summer or winter. Water at that depth is about the same temperature. To harness the cold water down below, we dig a shallow well. To do this we use a post auger and a 3 foot long well point that is attached to a 10 foot three quarter inch pipe using a drive coupling. We start by digging a hole using the post auger till the water table is reached and then start driving using the well point for additional two to three feet until it is submerged under the water table.

    A two to three foot trench is dug from where the well is installed to the garage . A One inch poly pipe is connected to the well pipe using a barbed coupling and is buried inside the two foot trench all the way to a well jet pump .The trench is dug down at least two feet until you hit some hard pan clay that is about where the temperatures begins being more constant. This keeps the pipe cool under the earth.

    The other end of the poly pipe coming out from the trench is connected a 1/2 HP Flotec Shallow well jet pump . The pump can be powered by a solar panel. The pump is kept outside the garage as it generates a lot of heat. If it is kept inside the garage, cooling effect from the water will be undone by the heat generated by the pump.

    The output of the pump is connected to a three quarter inch copper pipe inside the garage. It is then further connected to a water pressure tank with the help of a brass tee and a union. A relief valve is also attached to the tee to empty the water tank if the pressure gets too high. A water pressure tank is used prevent the pump from failure .It also acts as a buffer storage.

    The other end of the brass tee is connected to two pipes. One pipe goes outside the garage to a faucet and the other pipe is connected to a radiator that acts as a finned tube heat exchanger.

    The heat exchanger captures the hot air surrounding the garage and stores the heat into the finned coils within the radiator .The heat is transferred to the water flowing through them . An exhaust line from the radiator carries this hot water to outside the garage.

    Two flexible hose pipes connects the input of the heat exchanger to the water tank and output to an exhaust pipe. A box fan is placed in the front of the radiator to blow the cool air . The fan can be powered by Solar panels. Once the water starts running through the radiator , we start the fan

    • How to recycle scrap metal in the backyard by building a simple Mini Metal Foundry from start to finish
      In this project, we're using equal parts of sand and plaster to make a simple backyard foundry that's powerful enough to melt scrap metal in seconds. With this homemade furnace, we have the power to liquefy aluminum in the backyard and cast just about any object we can think of. You will need some big bag of play sand and some plaster of paris both of which you can find at your local hardware store for under $20. We are also going to need a 10 quart steel bucket and a tablecloth to cover anything. For this makeshift refractory lining we need One and 1/3 buckets full of plaster Paris or 21 cups, One and 3/4 buckets full of sand or 21 cups and 1 and 1/4 buckets filled with water or 15 cups. Mix everything together. It's really important to get all the dry powder wet and work out any lumps as quickly as possible. And after mixing for a couple of minutes, it should be fairly runny and roughly all the same color. Transfer the mix to the steel bucket upto 3 inches from top. We use the plastic measuring bucket to form the center of the foundry. Let the mixture dry for 3 minutes. Next step ,we turn an old steel fire extinguisher into a custom crucible. Depressurize the tank and unscrewed the valve from the top to make it safe and easy to cut in half with a hacksaw. At this point the plaster should be pretty well set. So let's dump the water from the bucket then use a pair of channel locks to pull the bucket out. Next step is make an air supply port .Using 3/8 inch hole saw and a metal cutting blade, we cut a hole to accommodate the one inch steel blower tube. The blower tube is made of one inch steep pipe ,one inch PVC coupling and one inch PVC pipe.Threads on one half of the coupling screw onto the steel pipe and the slip adapter on the other end simply pushes onto the PVC side easily. Next step is to build a lid to retain the heat.You need a couple of 4 inch U bolts.Make them stand upright into a 5 quart bucket filled with the insulating mix. To relieve pressure buildup, make a vent hole using a 3 inch hole cutting saw. This design works great for venting pressure and gives us the option to melt metal as well without even having to take the lid off the furnace. By the way, if you run out of soda cans to melt, you could try using it as a blacksmithing forge or even a barbecue for summertime grilling. We evenly place 5 charcoal briquettes at the bottom of the crucible made out of steel fire extinguisher, helps smelt the can faster once we fire it up. A hair dryer is taped to a PVC pipe and inserted a couple of one inch couplings to connect the steel tub eat one end and give the blower to a quick release feature. This way it's super easy to take apart and fits into a five gallon bucket for easy storage. The charcoal is filled it to the top and we breathe life into the steel furnace with a propane torch.The hairdryer is set to the low setting and blow a steady stream of oxygen on the charcoal to really heat things up. The lid we made keeps the heat inside so it conserves energy while it's bringing up the temperature. The coolest part is that the crucible lines up perfectly with the hole in the center. The container is three inches wide, which is the perfect size for melting standard size soda cans like these and at temperatures over 1000 degrees Fahrenheit . In order to isolate aluminium, first we remove the crucible making sure we have got a very secure grip with our tongs and slowly pour the liquid into a steel mold. The Soda cans are molded in the form of ingots.The purpose of an ingot is to keep some pure metal handy for when you want to make something cool.
    • How to build a Simple and Efficient Homemade Water Distiller for cheap .Great for everyday use or in emergency/off-grid situations.
      This project goes into the build of a homemade DIY Water distiller that can purify dirty and contaminated water and desalinate salt water into clean drinking water. The total cost of this build is about sixty dollars. For distilling water, you need three thing - water, a source of heat, and some sort of apparatus that will allow water to boil into steam and then recollect that steam , condensing it back into usable water. A water distiller basically needs to do two things, it needs to boil water to create steam, and it needs to capture that steam in a way that allows it to condense back into water. The materials you need to build this distiller are six quart stainless steel pressure cooker, 20 foot three eighth inch copper tubing, two gallon bucket, jb weld, zip ties, flat bar, five sixteenth inch silicon tubing, mason jar. The first step is to boil the contaminated water in a tea kettle or a pressure cooker. Here we use a six quart stainless steel pressure cooker. Since the boiling water must be directed to the condenser, something with a sealed lid of some sort is needed. The existing pressure valve of the cooker is removed and replaced with a barbed fitting .A small rubber O ring gasket is used to tighten the new fitting. Next step is to make the condenser. The purpose of a condenser is to give steam the opportunity to cool back down enough so that it turns back into liquid water. The condenser is built using a 20 foot three eighth inch copper tubing. This is reformed into a tighter and taller coil such it will fit into a two gallon bucket. Because it needs some sort of support to avoid having the coil collapse under its own weight, a flat bar bent into a U shape is placed under the coil. A small cross piece is attached to it at the bottom using JB weld. The coil is attached to the punched bar with some zip ties. A hole is drilled near the bottom of the bucket to allow the copper tube to drain out the condensed water . The coil is placed inside the bucket carefully and the tail end of the coil is pushed into the drain hole . The condenser is connected to the pressure cooker with a 5/16th inch silicon tubing. A similar silicon tubing connects the bottom of the condenser to the clean water receptacle like a mason jar. When distilling water , cooling the steam back down is very important. The coil itself will cool some of that down. But that alone isn't enough at this scale. It will end up losing a lot of steam through the bottom of the condenser because not all of it has been able to cool and condense by the time it reaches the bottom. An efficient way is to add a cooling element to the condenser. Filling the bucket with ice water will increase the efficiency and water output by a lot because it will cool the copper tubing much more than air alone. Doing so had an immediate effect and all of the escaping steam condensed instantly to liquid water. By periodically adding cold water through the distillation process, it practically eliminated all of the steam waste coming out of the condenser. The gap around the copper tube where the hole is drilled is not sealed. This is because of two reasons. The first being able to easily remove the condenser from the bucket for cleaning and maintenance. The second reason being it acts as a drain. The boiling steam causes the copper tubing to get very hot. Because of this, it heats up the cool water very quickly and this drain makes it convenient in that the water will drain out before it gets to that point. In a survival situation , set the condenser over a larger bucket to collect and reuse the cooling water as it drained out and not simply let it go to waste.
    • How to build a Super Efficient Outdoor Wood Stove Heater from an Old Propane Bottle
      This project goes over the build of an efficient outdoor wood burning stove heater out of an old propane bottle and some scrap metal from the scrapyard. This stove has secondary burn system that helps in combustion of any unburned smoke or fume inside .Almost little to no smoke coming from the flue pipe. The first step is to make sure that the old propane tank is empty. We take the valve at the top by removing the valve protector cage. Fill the tank with water and let it sit for a few hours before we drain the tank and start cutting top and bottom. With the help of a hole saw cutter ,we cut 100mm four inch holes at the top and bottom of the tank . The top hole is for the flue pipe to sit in and the bottom hole is for cleaning the ashes out. We also remove the bottom stand too. Next, we cut a hole for the door for the stove. This is cut as high up to the top of the bottle . The door is made of chequered plate piece . We fit a rectangular pyrex dish glass piece in the middle of the chequered plate that can withstand high temperature with couple of steel bracket pieces. The glass on the door helps us to see how the secondary burn system is working inside the chamber. The door is attached to a frame through hinges. The flue outlet on the top the tank is attached through a flange piece with holes. The door handle is made of a socket wrench. The wrench is bolted to the plate and a small metal piece is welded onto to the frame to which the wrench is pulled to close the door A deflector plate made of small holes is installed inside the stove on the top . We drill 8mm holes around the top of tank and put dome bolts across them. The deflector pipe sits on these bolts. The deflector plate stop the unburned gases exiting out the flue outlet pipe. This encourages the flame that rises, pass through the deflector plate holes into the secondary burn chamber that helps in better combustion. The secondary burn system is made of stainless steel pipes .The air intake section is long enough to get the air coming in to get super heated and move into two sections filled with holes. Since not all gases from the wood combust from the primary air intake, the secondary burn pipe ensures that the air gets super heated before exiting the pre-drilled holes and helps burn the unburned gases rising from the fire before exiting the flue pipe. The secondary air intake pipe coming out of the firebox is welded on the top of the tank with a flange piece. The primary air intake pipe that goes under the door frame is made of a two inch coupler and threaded damper disc. A small metal piece is welded to the coupler with a hole in the middle. The damper disc screws in through the hole that allows us to close and open the intake .