This project goes into the build of an offgrid portable water pump and filtration system that can turn any water from your creek,lake,river into safe and clean drinking water . This 12V portable system can be powered by solar or from your car directly and is ideal for camping , RV or outdoor survival enthusiasts. This system enables them to pump water from a fresh water source, filter and then store or use in case of emergency survival situation.
The materials you need to build this portable filtration system are as follows. A tactix storage box to lodge the water pump,inlet and outlet hoses, an inline water filter or twin carbon 0.5micron filter, pex pipe, garden hose pipes, 12mill barb strainer,rocker switch ,12V Shurflo water pump with the flow rate of 11 litres per minute, 50 amp Anderson plug and 10m heavy duty wire ,basic tools such as wire cutters, long nose pliers, solder.
The first step is completing the wiring for the water pump inside the tactix tool box. The rocker switch , the Anderson plug and a 7.5 Amp inline fuse are wired. The 12V rocker toggle switch is mounted at the center of the box lid.
The power input plug or the Anderson plug is mounted to the left of the switch. This input plug connects to the car battery or a solar battery. The positive red wires from the switch is connected to the Anderson plug through an inline fuse .The negative black wire from the plug goes straight to the switch. The remaining wires from the switch is then connected to the water pump which will be installed later. The wires are covered with corrugated split tubing to ensure that it is protected and safe.
The filter strainer is installed on the inlet side of the pump using an elbow, thread tapes. The strainer will filter out any unwanted debris before it goes to the pump.
Couple of holes are drilled into to the side of the box where the inlet and the outlet hoses will connect the water pump. The male fitting are attached to the holes before the pump is installed.
The pump is placed inside the box and mounted securely in such a way that the elbows are facing towards the two holes for the exterior hoses that was just made at the side of the box. Once the pump is mounted ,we connect the red and black wires coming from the switch to the positive and negative connections of the pump. The wires are once again covered with corrugated split tubing for safety.
To connect the pump with the hose outlets , we measure the distance between the outlets and the pump and connect two pex pipes . Heat was applied to the pipe for bending and moulding them to connect the outlets.
The 10 metre 50 Amp Anderson plug extension heavy duty cable wire is connected to the power source .Here the power draw is from a car battery. The other end is connected the input anderson plug on the top side of the box.
The inlet hose with the strainer attached is placed sitting midway
into the water source .The other end of the hose is connected to the intake pipe coming from the pump inside the box. The
The other hose is connected to the outlet pipe coming from the water pump inside the box. At the end of the hose , we connect an inline water filter or a twin carbon filter . The carbon filter ensures that there is no sediments or debris inside the water and also helps to eliminate bacteria and other contaminants.
- DIY Video: How to build your own Water Pump From Scrap and save lots of dollars
- How to turn Dirty-water/Salt-water to a clean fresh drinking water by building a simple Water distillation systemThis project goes into the build a simple Survival water purifier that can turn salt water /sea water into fresh drinkable water .This purifier is portable, easy to make and is very inexpensive. It works by the principle of desalination .When sea water/ salt water is heated to its boiling point, the water turns into steam which leaves the salt behind. Condensing the steam back into water ,it is purified. The materials you need to build this desalination unit are a simple non insulated stainless steel bottle with a steel lid , copper tubing , stove or heating source, bottle for collecting the condensed water, soldering unit, right angle compression fiting. The condenser of this desalination unit is made from one quarter inch copper tubing. Remove the lid and the gasket from the bottle . A hole is drilled using a drill press at the top of the lid to accommodate the quarter inch copper tubing . Before soldering the copper tubing , clean the surface of both copper and the stainless steel lid with the help of a sandpaper. The copper tubing is pushed through the hole just enough to stick half an inch from both side. It is then soldered securely in place. Once this is completed , the silicon gasket is then re-installed in the lid and lid is screwed back on to the bottle. A right angle compression fitting is pressed into the lid at the copper tubing opening . The extension tube at the other end of the compression fitting is removed and replaced with a rubber gasket for better seal for the lock nut. The copper coil for the re-condensing the steam when the water is boiling is made by wrapping the copper tube up tightly against the stainless bottle . Eight or nine turns of the tubing is ideal. The ends of the coil are bend outwards so that when one end is pressed into the fitting on the bottle, the other side will be sticking straight out. The salt or sea water is added to the bottle and reattached to the lid which is hanging over a heat source such as a wood stove or camp fire. The other end of the coil is placed near a collection container to collect the distilled water. To produce more condensed water out of the copper tubing ,we need to cool it down. Otherwise the production of steam will outweigh the production of the condensed water. To cool the copper tubing , wet put a wet piece of cloth soaked in cold water and wrap it around the coil or dip the whole bottom half of the copper coil into a vessel filled with cold water. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PT6cjp_zThw
- How to build a Multi Use Simple Homemade Wood Gas System from Scrap Materials that can be used as a Generator,Cooking Stove and LanternThis project goes over the build of a simple gasification system that functions to produce wood gas for running a generator, a cooking stove and for lanterns. We feed the wood chips and other materials through the opening at the top of the gasifier ,the air also gets drawn in from the top .The air would drop through the wood mass, down to the reduction zone and gets collected down at the bottom of the tank through the output pipe . The materials needed to build this down draft style gasifier are a 3 old propane tanks, old steel sheets, wood pellets. The first step is to make sure that propane tanks are empty .Remove the handles from the top of the 3 propane tanks and unthread the valves. Cut the top portion from 2 tanks and stack the body of the tanks on top of each other and weld it. One of the cut out top pieces can be used a lid . The bottom portion of the lower tank is cut open to create the reduction zone of the gasifier. To make the reduction point, we take the scrap steel sheet and make a five inch wide small tube of the them and weld them to the bottom third propane tank . The bottom five gallon propane tank is used as a ash bin where all the ash is going to get caught and as an outlet for all the gases coming out of the system. The top portion of this tank is cut in such a way that it fits the reduction zone collar of the secondary tank. Make sure that both the tanks fits nicely together so that you can pull the inner chamber out of the bottom ash tank to remove it, dump the ash catch out and use it again and again. The top of the upper tank is cut open .This acts as the feed area where all the wood pieces are dropped in. We make a screen with holes using a 20mm hole saw cutter from the leftover cutouts of the propane tank. We are gonna mount this screen inside the gasifier lower reduction zone. A hinge and a wire is attached to the screen so it can open and close. This gives us the ability so we can shake the screen if it plugs up with ash or other materials. The wire goes through the reactor up to the top . We have a pressure relief system installed on the lid of the gasifier. If anything were to happen inside of the gasifier , the build up pressure can be made to escape through the top lid .This is done by hooking up two springs on both sides of the lid through small loops .The springs on both sides is attached to hand levers. We drill 8 half inch diameter holes just above reduction zone area and put thick steel tubing through them to the center of the chamber. The airflow will go in and be drawn down through the center of the reduction zone that helps in efficient burn. The pipes are curved in to the chamber so that it does not interfere with any wood mass as it goes into the reduction zone. We add plugs along these 8 tubes to regulate the air flow into the system. Next step is to add the draw fan to the gasifier. Here we use a pellet stove fan .We add a 2 inch plate over the face of the fan and a threaded pipe to seal any air going into the gasifier. We start up the gasifier by putting some chopped wood through the top and use the fan to get the wood gas producing out of the bottom outlet pipe. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h9vuphZe8iU